Venture :: 4T65E - Transmission Would Not Go Into Gear In Any Position
Jul 30, 2012
A friend called during the weekend, while driving on the vacation with the family the gear suddenly disengaged at cruising speed in a slight downhill. After that the transmission would not go into gear in any position. There were no slip, no noise, no visible oil leak nor other symptoms when this happened, just the gear disengaged. The van has now been towed to a local workshop for diagnose.
From what he described to me it seems similar to the thread , but it was never updated with information on what actually was the problem: [URL] ....
On my advise he checked fuse 31, which is feeding the solenoids in the transmission, but it was ok. Since there was no noise and it wasn't in a high torque situation I don't believe there has been a major mechanical failure, rather either loss of electrical power or hydraulic pressure. He have had the common hard shifting issue so maybe that solenoid gave up or the pump. He doesn't have any code reader so I don't know if any has been set.
View 1 Replies
Advertisement
OK, this happened again. Driving along, try to change from drive to sport, gear lever button (silver on side of gear lever) remains in the depressed position. Can't get our of Drive or Neutral. If you switch the car off it will never start again!! I call McDonald Automotive in Denver and then drive all the way from Breckenridge with the car stuck in Drive making sure I would never get into a position where I would have to reverse. Also the key is locked into the ignition. McDonald has a loaner waiting for me. However, this seems like it could potentially be a dangerous flaw in the gear lever mechanism. It is very unnerving, almost like you cannot stop the car under certain circumstances (even though you can put your brakes on and stop and you can put it in Neutral, but you cannot switch the car off).
View 5 Replies
Well I read most of the 2011 manual last night to find out why I have "M" on my gearshift, & found it near the end...so we can manually shift our gears. So I normally drive in D, and I use the tow/haul switch when trailing...so under what circumstances does the normal person need to manually shift through 5 gear positions using M, and the 5-position switch?
View 7 Replies
I have a 1999 Chevy Venture van with a 3.4l v6 in it, and am having a strange what seems to be either an electrical or transmission problem which I can explain pretty easily.
95% of the time after the van has been driven for 30 minutes and warmed up, I notice a strange chugging when it shifts from 1st to 2nd. The chugging gets less noticeable when it shifts into the higher gears. 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th etc...
This is the strange part. If you put the vehicle in park and shut it off, and then restart it after it sits for 10 seconds or so the chugging is gone. It shifts beautifully. Could this be a problem with the computer or is it some kind of sensor resetting??
The computer is giving me a P0742 code. Which is "Torque Concerter Clutch Solenoid - Circuit Stuck on". I also have a code for the Mass Air Flow Sensor and Catalyst Efficiency which I think is related to other things.
View 8 Replies
97 Venture, 4T60e trans, 197,000 mi. No shift or performance problems ever, solid as a rock. Well taken care of. Then a few months back it throws a P0758 code for Shift Solenoid B, and intermittently seems stuck in 3rd or 4th gear when starting from a stop. Wife drives w/ kids so immediately I park it to investigate and drive it myself and observe. Problem would happen usually after warming up and driving a couple miles, but would sometimes go away after shutting it off for a bit and going again.
After lots of research I decided it was probably a stuck solenoid and tried Sea Foam Trans Tune to see if it would clean it up, and it WORKED! For about 4 weeks that is, then came back. So I took the proper time and steps to replace both shift solenoids myself, and of course the fluid & filter (since you have to drain it to open the side cover anyway). My work is meticulous and clean, so I know nothing was done shoddy.
When removing shift solenoid A, however, a spring-loaded spool came partway out of that port in the valve body, didn't fall out, and I pushed it back in with the new solenoid. Everything else went back together flawlessly. On the first drive, it shifted to 1st as expected so all seemed well. Then after a several miles of driving I noticed something felt wrong - it was skipping 3rd gear altogether (1-2-4), and it would NOT downshift from 4th to 3rd. However if shifter was in "3" it would shift from 2nd to 3rd just fine, then I could put it in "D" and would hit 4th, but could only downshift to 3rd manually.
I am stumped, and it's been parked for months because something in the solenoid change has caused a major problem. I don't believe it could be mechanical gear/clutch failure as it shifts to 3rd w/ shifter in "3", and there was never a mechanical problem before. And it also still intermittently starts out in a high gear though quite seldom (3rd or 4th, not sure which but it barely moves) but putting shifter in "2" or "1" makes it start in 2nd. And never a SES light. Checked solenoid resistance at trans connector and they're perfect.
Tranny shop checked computer and said it's good, and also said "it's shifting just fine" which is absolutely not true. So much for a "free" diagnostic check... Could I have just gotten a bad solenoid? Could the spring-loaded spool that came part way out gotten hung up or the spring not reseated properly? Could it be the vacuum modulator (it got slightly bent upward when lowering engine)?
View 2 Replies
I am getting a single code - P0753 that comes on now and the van will not shit into 4th gear. It re-appears after clearing the check engine codes in 5 seconds. That seems to be the "A" or 1-2 shift soleniods (or wiring).
Can you get to the shift solenoids after dropping the transmission oil pan or do you have to pull off the side housing cover - that seems like a much more difficult job?
Of course, I will replace both of the solenoids if I can get to them. I will do it myself if I can get to them after dropping the pan but don't know if I will be able if that side cover has to come off.
What is the location and if I should be able to get that drivers side cover off if that is where they are?
I think the 1998 Venture's tranny is the 4T60-E.
I have a 1000+ mile road trip coming up soon so I got to get this fixed shortly. I guess I am glad this didn't happen in the middle of the trip though.
View 6 Replies
Left the car for a couple of days outside... and tried to start it latter at -38 C. No matter how convincing I was - the engine wouldn't run. Well, now both batteries are dead... I have no luck in engaging the gear lever into N position so we can tow it into a flatbad truck... any one knows how to do it with no power? Also is there a way to manually open up a trunk of the car?
There is seems to be some weird electrical issue... while car just sits in a parking lot - batteries are drained out of juice... if its driven even for a small period of time - everything seems to be ok. Thats a first real let down from this car.
View 3 Replies
This morning I drove the car for about 40 mins and everything was fine.
In the afternoon, I tried to start the car. Just found the ABS light was on and the gear was locked at the parking position. I couldn't push down the small button that releases the gear. Of course I was pressing the brake pad when I did this, but it seemed like the system did NOT know it, so it wouldn't allow me to change the gear. I tried several times but no luck.
At night, I tried again. This time the ABS light was off and the gear moved as normal.
I have the feeling that it's due to some sensor, but not sure. What shall I do to make sure this won't happen.
View 1 Replies
The gear selector on my 2005 Mazda 3 with automatic transmission is difficult to move between P, R, N, and D positions. It does not "click" or fall into position like it used to. It has gradually gotten worse. When the car is in Park, it seems to not want to go all the way up into the Park slot. Even though the car actually parked, the P will not light up on the dashboard, which sometimes causes the car not to start when the key is turned. So sometimes I have to put it in Neutral to start.
Now the problem is that when it is in Drive, it will "fall out of gear". I put that in quotes because it is still in drive, but it was shift up to a higher gear if i don't physically pull the gear selector knob back. For example, if i'm driving and the car is in 4th gear going 60mph, and the shifter know slides up an eight of an inch, the D light will go off and the car will move into a higher gear (not sure which one, feels like 2nd or 3rd) and the engine will rev up. It doesn't feel like neutral.
Is there anything I can do myself? I plan on trading in the car in the next couple months, but I'd prefer to not have to get it worked on until then.
View 2 Replies
Got the following problem with my 2004:
1. Unlocked ny car this morning by use of my remote key and the alarm went off.
2. Got the alarm turned off by locking and unlocking my car several times by use of my remote keys
3. Put the car in reverse and took out of the garage. Parked the car and put the gear stick in P position. The knob on the left side of the gear stick remained in the "in" position where one usually can move the gear stick up and down between the gears.
4. However, I was not able to move the gear stick, and the main display said something in German like "Call the workshop".
5. Locked the car bye use of one of my three remote keys.
6. Later, after trying to solve the gear stick problem by moving the knob and the gear stick in several ways I was not able to lock the car with any of my remote keys. No messages were displayed.
7. I was only able to manually lock the door where I used my key.
The knob on the gear stick is showing scratch marks so someone has tried to do something to it earlier. I have owned the car since easter this year and has not experienced this problem earlier.
The battery on the left side of the car is new, and the batteries were charged for 12 hours two weeks ago. The car has not been driven much since easter, and has only been taken in and out of the garage four times during the last three weeks without being driven.
View 13 Replies
My 2006 Elantra (54,000 miles) shifts really, really hard when it's not cold and passes through the 35 mph range -- hard enough to make you glad you've got your seatbelt on. I've taken it to my regular mechanic and now it's in an automatic transmission shop.
My mechanic changed the fluid (twice), and took it through a "learning sequence". The fluid didn't look that bad and he reported that there were no codes to work with. He thinks I'm going to have to get a new transmission.
The AT shop has confirmed that there are no codes to work with and that the problem begins at 143 degrees. They tell me that the transmission is shifting into a higher gear without releasing the lower gear. They tried replacing a couple of solenoids, but that yielded no change in behavior. Now, they're telling me they "think" I need a new computer. I'm just afraid the trial & error approach is going to cost me a boat-load.
View 1 Replies
Someone borrowed my truck and drove it with emergency break on for who knows how long. I have a 2002 f350 4x4 that won't go backwards now even if it shifts to that position. Neutral will allow forward motion but don't come out of first gear. What might be wrong?
View 1 Replies
I picked up a 2004 GTI not long ago for pretty cheap because it had a few issues. I am working my way through them. However, having 3rd gear issue.
All other gears are perfectly fine but there is way less play in the shifter in the 3rd gear position and I have to hold the shifter in position until the clutch is engaged (pedal up) to avoid the gear grinding. Once the clutch is engaged it stays in 3rd gear fine. It doesn't matter if I am moving from 2nd to 3rd or 4th to 3rd. Same deal. I have aligned the shifter several times using to proper procedures with no effect.
It never grinds 3rd with the clutch disengaged (so the synchro is fine?) and it will bang shift no problem. Oh and the clutch is less than a year old. It was installed by a shop before I bought the car. It's not really a big deal, but I would like to fix it. If I have to swap the trans that's fine, but need to figure out if it is a trans or linkage issue first.
View 1 Replies
This issue with my 2003 Mazda Protege 5, manual transmission, has been going on for years. I'd like to sell the car, so I'd like to fix it.
On occasion I am unable to shift into first gear from a stopped position. This never happens in the late fall, winter, or early spring - it all seems to depend on how warm it is outside. It is always fine at the start of the trip, but becomes a problem in what seems like a period of time proportional to how warm it is outside. Again, when its cool outside, it pretty much doesn't happen. But once we pass 25C / 77F it is common, and will almost certainly happen on any trip of over a 10 minutes. The hotter the weather, the faster it shows up as a problem.
If I leave the car and come back after it cools down, first gear works fine again. And I can downshift into first gear as I come to a stop with no issues - I just hate riding the clutch like that, so I've been starting in second gear instead.
View 10 Replies
05 F250 FX4
Gear position needle (little orange line for an automatic) isn't working. It stays in the 1st gear position.
Tired of counting the "clicks" to know which gear I am in. How hard is this to fix?
View 1 Replies
I have a 2000 F150 5.4L with 157k miles on it. I think it has the 4r70w trans. The transmission has started holding 2nd gear too long before shifting into third. Throttle position doesn't matter, it does it even under light throttle. I do not have a check engine light. I have owned the truck since new and the trans fluid has been changed 3 or 4 times. The fluid looks pretty good now, not burnt or anything. The truck has been sitting in the garage a lot over the past 2 years, I drive it at least once a month and have put maybe 2000 miles on it this year. It shifts fine through the other gears, just 2-3 has an issue. Truck has the towing package.
View 6 Replies
Replaced Troque Converter, Truck runs engine runs fine transmission won't shift out of 1st gear.
View 2 Replies
I have a 99 Honda Accord with 172K miles on it. In the last couple months it's started slipping more often than when the problem first started about 4-5ish months ago. It tends to lurch when I start going again from a stopped position and I'm also now noticing it lurching a bit when I go from a slower speed to a faster one while driving...it's more noticeable going from a faster to slower speed when driving. So it tends to lurch most from a stopping position and also when slowing down while going moderate speeds like 40 or 50 mph.
I took it to a shop and they said it's in the begging stages of failure and that I can either rebuild the tranny or drive it until it dies, but that it will die eventually. My question is since it's slipping, is it still ok to drive on longer drives? I was considering driving about 7 hours to see my family in a month or so and I'm not sure if it's worth the risk of driving it that far. I want to buy a new car, but there's more Hondas around where I'm from originally and I just want to get a decent used one since it will cost more to fix the transmission than the car is worth. Thoughts about driving long distances with a slipping transmission????
View 9 Replies
I just bought a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 (Magnum Series); 5.9l, 2WD, 8cyl. After 2 months the transmission went out. I bought a used transmission and had a shop install it. When I picked it up (10-3-14) the mechanic pointed out the shifter is one notch off (ie. in R position its in Park, in N position its in Reverse, etc). In addition it no longer has D1 nor D2 (putting the shift in D-D2 position results in Drive only, no power gears). The mechanic said it was something in the steering column causing the shift display to be off and had no explanation to why there were no power gears.
To make matters worse, the ignition switch no longer reverts to the Off position; the key can be removed but the switch stays On, warning alarm for key being in ignition comes On etc. I admit the ignition switch was old and the switch would sometimes not turn over before the transmission was replaced. He blamed something in the column again. So,
Q1-Is the mechanic correct there is something wrong in the column and not a misalignment he caused when he installed the replacement transmission causing the shifter to be misaligned?
Q2-Why doesn't the truck have D1-D2 gears? Do some transmissions not have these or am I missing something?
Q3-Is the most likely problem to the ignition the ignition switch or solenoid? Or could he have damaged something during the transmission installation? (I ask the latter because he took a panel off under the steering column while installing the replacement transmission.)
View 8 Replies
I've read a few things on the 4R100 and have a question.
My transmission stays in the OD off position until I hit 55 mph no matter the tune I am using and then will up shift to OD. It turns back off once I drop below 30 mph.
I was told when I bought the truck that it was a factory tow package. Is this a thing?
I would like an option to turn it off when I'm not towing or climbing a hill if I can.
Any way to modify it with a switch?
View 14 Replies
I recently bought my first EX and I finally had enough of looking at this
The transmission shift lever indicator not being in the proper position needed to be fixed!
After some searching, I realized what the issue was and was quite surprised that the "fix" is replacing the entire shift lever indicator assembly. Seems overkill but right on par of with the way the world works nowadays.
The other solution I found was by a company called Dorman. They make a Shift Indicator Cable Bracket, which is the only part that was damaged in my case as you can see here. The white part pointed at by the arrow is supposed to be attached to the rest of the white plastic.
I looked around the garage thinking I need some glue. And something to reinforce the freshly glued parts. That should have been much more difficult as I don't regularly fix tiny plastic parts BUT I quickly came across this old external hard drive cover.
Broke some tabs off, trimmed them to size and poured glue all over the place.
This is what I ended up with.
Now my OCD can focus on something else
View 2 Replies
