Venture :: 2002 Running Rough Under Load
Aug 24, 2012
I have an 02 Venture WB Package with the 3400 engine. Within the last week is has started to run rough under load. This happens mainly when it is driving, but it does happen at idle when there is an incline or decline.
A little background of what happened. It has not wanted to start all of the time and i heard that it might be a dirty MAF. Well, the MAF is clean and still not wanted to start all or the time. During this time I noticed a plastic line going from the intake tube into the rear valve cover was loose, so I thought this was the problem. I have big hands and couldn't reach the rear vavle cover without rocking the engine forward. When I finally got the bolts out of the mounts that attache to the engine, the engine rocked back a little. I didn't think anything of this and ratchet strapped the engine forward so i could reach the valve cover.
I got the line back in and put the engine back where it is supposed to go and all was well. A few days after doing this my wife told me the van was running rough so i took it for a spin and she was correct. It is hard to describe the sound it makes, but it almost sounds like there is was too much stress on the engine when I have the gas peddle pressed. The van doesn't lose any power i don't think. The van sounds great if it is coasting.
It only does this when there is a load on the engine in drive or if it is idle or parked on an incline or decline. It goes into the shop on thursday the 30th, but I would rather not spend the cash if i can do it myself. I am totally lost with this one. I have a video of the sound when I am driving it, but the sound isn't too loud on the video.
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This is my uncles car and Im doing this for him. Its a 2003 Venture that he has had since new. It overheated but there is no water in the oil and there is water in the radiator so I'm thinking that the thermostat froze not allowing water to circulate. It runs rough, makes a bit of noise from the top end.
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i have a chevy venture and it was running just fine untill this morning it started to have a good amount of smoke coming from the exhaust and is running rough i took it to the autozone and had the codes checked since i let someone borrow my code reader but when i went there and had it done i got 5 codes out of it and they are....
p0300
p0301
p0463
p1106
p1189
What happened to it since it was running just fine all yesterday and before...
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Car runs and idles good until I turn on lights or fan rpm jump up about 500 to 700 above normal much worst with both on 1000 1500 and fluctuates. Engine runs rough the higher the rpm the rougher.
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126000kms on 03 explorer 4.6 truck started. Running rough at idle and under load.... Code came up for cyl 8 injector. Replaced injector... problem still there. Switched cop and plug with another cyl and plug.... same code and cycl 8 is definitely not working. Would a generic problem always affect i cylinder. I even checked wire clip on for injector... it appears ok. There is power to injector wire clip.
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Those are the codes I'm getting. P0340, P1166 and P1167
Here's the story. Engine running flat under load. Easy acceleration is ok, but merging onto the turnpike causes a noticeable loss of power. Replaced the cam sensor, cleared the codes, ran ok for a day. Same codes came back, same flat performance.
Returned the cam sensor with another new one to make sure it wasn't a dud out of the box. Advance Auto Parts is awesome - replaced it no questions asked.
Installed the new cam sensor, cleared the codes. Ran great for a day, then the same symptoms came back, with the same codes. I'm thinking it might be the ECU? If it is, how expensive are they? And do they have to be programmed by the dealer?
This is a 2002 Santa Fe 2.7l automatic with around 147k miles on it.
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My '99 was running rough - coughing/spitting/sputtering when under a load - especially at lower idle/rpms and going up inclines.
Brought to mechanic and he put it on "the scope" which told him the #1 pack was bad. Replaced. Got it back and it ran better, but, then went back to the coughing/sputtering.
Replaced the spark plugs - OEM Motorcrafts. Seemed perfect for a wee bit, now I notice an occasional cough/spit but all in all not bad.
Curious: was it foolish to not replace ALL coil packs at time of plugs or is it ...acceptable to do just the plugs and then come back and do packs if needed.
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I have a 2002 F250 CCSB Lariat 4x4 with the Triton V10, I'm up to 232,000 miles so far and fairly happy with the old girl. Just this weekend, I noticed some hesitation when at idle and even more rough running when under slight load. The misfire/hesitation is worst when going up a slight hill, when the truck is accelerating at low RPMs.
I am getting zero trouble codes or freeze frame conditions on my scanner. What should be my order of diagnosis? Vacuum test at line from PCV to TB, COP test? EGR inspection? Plug inspection? Also, how do you test a coil if resistance is not a reliable method?
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I have 144,000 miles on my V6. Just started to notice that the car is surging/hesitating at just about all speeds. It appears to idle fine and if you raise the RPM in neutral I can't detect a problem. If you place the trans in drive, apply the brake and raise the RPM to 1000 to 1500 the engine's RPM varies slightly and regularly, it not steady like all of my other cars. When you are at highway speeds you can feel the car slightly buck, if you take it out of overdrive it is more detectable due to higher RPM. I do not notice the problem when the engine is cold.
I have a hand-held scanner and I see no codes and there is no CEL illuminated. I changed the plugs with OEM plugs at 90,000 miles when I changed the timing belt. Changed the air filter probably 10,000 miles ago. Just cleaned the MAF sensor (after the problem started), no change. Took it to the dealer. They discovered broken motor mounts which I kind of suspected I had, but I didn't feel the symptom were mount related. They said that I was feeling torque converter lock-up. I told them that the range of speeds and gears that the problem presented itself that it was unlikely lock-up.
Alldata suggests that it is a fuel problem and Toyota has some TSB's for drivability. I'm discounting the TSB's because this just started recently. Any hints as to where to try first? EGR, fuel regulator, fuel pulsation damper, injectors, spark plug coil packs, ..... It gets too expensive to just remove and replace the sensors that deal with the fuels system. I have plenty of tools plus a volt-ohm meter and a fuel pressure gauge.
07/21/2009 : While I was at work I added Seafoam to the gas, tank was half full.
On my way home from work I disconnected the EGR Position Sensor connector and the symptoms disappeared and the expected CEL illuminated. When I arrived home I went on Alldata and looked for an EGR system test. I found two, one for the position sensor and one for the EGR temperature sensor.
I had to run out to Sears to pickup a vacuum pump. I performed the tests below up to the point that I needed the pump. I also removed, inspected and reinstalled the EGR Position Sensor before I left for Sears. I did not notice the symptoms on the trip about 14 miles round trip. I'll see if I still have the problem on my way to work tomorrow.
Performed the on-vehicle inspection as listed on Alldata
EGR Position Sensor resistance: 2.6 ohms, in spec
EGR Position Sensor power: 5.0v, in spec
EGR Position Sensor output with no vacuum applied: 1.0v, in spec
EGR Position Sensor output with 5.1 in Hg vacuum applied: 4.0v, in spec
07/22/2009 : Problem seems to have gone away, no bucking or hesitation. Maybe the connector contacts were dirty on the position sensor. Will update if the symptoms return.
09/07/2009 : Noticed that I am getting 2 miles per gallon more than before I found the problem.
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My 2002 lincoln LS run rough after warm up. Check engine light code is EGR , replaced EGR.
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My 2002 Ford Explorer 4L V6 is running rough I found out why I just don't know what the piece is called because I need a replacement. Mine fell off and fell down the engine and melted quite a bit. Also the part number on my piece doesn't work anywhere, that I have typed it in. Mine has a Ford part number of 1L2U-9F764-AC. Also need to know the proper Ford number. I have a picture I found online with an arrow pointing to the piece I need.
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My wife has a 2002 Camry V6 SE with about 75k miles. Over the past 6 months the car has developed a problem. Every so often, say once every 2-3 weeks the car will start fine, but after driving for about 5-10 minutes, will start running rough and stall if I stop for a light. It will start again, (with a little effort) and will stall again at the next stop and so on. I can pull off the road, wait 10 minutes and the car will then run like a Swiss watch until the next episode.
I have taken the car to a respected mechanic and he sees nothing obvious wrong and there is no record in the car's computer of any problem. The last time this happened the car had been on the road for about 20 minutes before the stalling problem occurred. I kept the car going at idle by putting in neutral and increasing the throttle.
After we arrived home, the car cut out when we made it into the garage but a rotten egg-like smell was in the air in the garage. After about an hour, the car stated immediately and ran like a top. That was about a week ago and no problems since. I have read in the threads about EGRs Throttle bodies etc.
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I have a 2002 Ford Windstar. Just replaced a TPS, went to town was coming back home, and all of a sudden it started to spit and sputter while in gear. But, in neutral she runs alright. I use mid-grade gas. I put in two cans of Seafoam in the tank. Wrecker operator smelled the exhaust and told me the it was too rich. My question is and this sounds stupid, could the previous owner. Had never replaced the fuel filter or if they did replaced it, that it was installed backwards. I drove it almost 20 miles before it died. I figured that the fuel in the gas line emptied and it refuse to go. And since it only runs good without strain on the engine...
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My 2002 Lincoln runs rough after warm up.
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Recently replaced spark plugs and wires on 02 SL1 with 209K miles. Was running rough, rough and high idle, almost died on me driving home one night. After replacing everything, car still wouldn't start. Spent some time on the forums and some suggested a leaking intake manifold gasket, so I changed that out as well as the coolant temperature sensor. Still it won't start. I am getting good spark at the plugs (coil arcs across the posts when plugs wires are off).
Really not sure where to go next with this. I can hear the fuel pump hum when I turn on the ignition, and I get a good spray at the fuel rail. Basically I turn the key and it cranks, sputters, and will almost catch, but then not. What next??
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So the Jetta started running rough, then stalled after starting. Couldn't drive it home so I had to tow it. Got to the house and read codes. It gave me P0135, P0171, and P0321. I researched and saw that the only code of these three whose symptoms included stalling was P0321, so I replaced the Crankshaft Position sensor. Tried starting it, and it wouldn't start at all. I kept at it for a while thinking it would catch, but after 5 minutes the battery was too low to crank. I tested the old crankshaft sensor, and had resistance of about 900 ohms, so it was in range. For giggles, I pulled the new one and checked it, also in range. I put one of them back in, and proceeded to scratch my head. Charged the battery up, and now not sure what to do. I need to do a very close hose inspection, but there are no obvious tears or breaks.
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My ranger just started running very rough. Like misfiring, but I think it may be the fuel pump. It starts and drives...but it surges then drives normal, as if fuel is being fed, then starved, then force fed etc. My father asked if I had trouble starting it and to be honest in the last 6 months it was a little harder to start on several occasions. On a few occasions it required more cranking. But that was only a few times.
I tried putting in a fuel injector cleaner and 93 octane gas but it is still running even rougher now. I changed out the fuel filter under the rail about a year ago (maybe 8000 miles ago at most). My father thinks the fuel pump is shot and he laughed because his went on his expedition and he said it is inside the fuel tank and there is no way to get at it without dropping the tank. Is that true? 2002 ranger xl 4cyl
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On my V8 02 XLT Explorer the engine is running rough like it's missing.
I think a coil may have gone bad,,found a LOT of anti-freeze down in the spark plug hole.
Have replaced the intake but now need to fix the roughness.
Is there any easy way to check each coil? Or should I be checing something else?
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I bought my 2002 Excursion 6.8L about 2yrs ago, no less than a week of having it I started to have all sorts of problems. (insert nagging wife here) the biggest of problems was the darn thing started to run very rough and the ABS light cont to flash, then the truck just died (engine stopped, EXTREMELY scary in a intersection) I replaced the VSS in the rear diff.. acted a little better for a while then..no luck. I called around to every ford dealer in town. I need more break light fluid to there isn't enough grease on my wobbler pin?
So I got the initiative to simplify what I was seeing and hearing. I found that there was an OSS sensor on the tail of the transmission...drove my very intense self up to the dealership and bought myself a new OSS sensor. I got home and replaced it, then I drove my truck under the largest shade tree I could find and replaced all the coils and spark plugs. (Insert bloody knuckles and curse words here) Job Done. I thought to myself if this doesn't fix it then I don't know what to do. (I couldn't sell it)...again the point being...the truck has never ran better, gas mileage has doubled and the true power of the v10 has been restored. I found 4 different types of spark plugs in it and 3 different types of coils...?
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Drove fairly fast (160km/hr or 100 miles/hr) then took an exit down a ramp and had to stop at a red light. Noticed all of a sudden that the engine was running bit rougher and then noticed the yellow engine light blinking. I know to turn off the engine immediately when this occurs but then all of a sudden engine light turned off and car was running smooth again.
Car has been reliable for 7 years - proper maintained, synthetic oil, 171000km, timing belt changed, burns very little oil, good torque. Should I have it checked by the dealer (fantastic fair vw dealer)?
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2002 F150 5.4 v8,,, I had troubles just over a month ago with a po305 code. i got the truck fixed with 2 new coils n some gaskets. I am having these po353 & po171 codes pop up now. The truck is running rough and I am curious to if its just another coil problem or if their is something I am overlooking or just don't know about?
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