Venture :: 2000 Silhouette Backup Light Don't Lit - Fuse / Bulbs Fine
Nov 8, 2010
This is for a 2000 Silhouette, yet I see there's lots more traffic for the Venture, so thought I'd start here first.
Backup lights don't light, when minivan put into reverse. b/up fuse ok (engine bay, #27), bulbs ok (swapped with new lights, and switched with turn lights, to confirm).
The circuit board is a potential, yet hard to believe that out of 8 bulbs, only 2 would go, and that would be 1 on each side, and only the reverse lights (not the marker, stop, or turn). Will go at it with a multi-meter, to see if there's current, for the next step.
Searches show that it could be the gear position sensor, stuck with what part this would be, and where this part would be. Would this be a pin-to-ground physical sensor, a gear position sensor by the transmission, something linked to the gear selector arm, etc? And once found, is this something that is replaced, or adjusted (imagine the reverse lights going on, when in neutral!)? Still looking for info, on that one.
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Weird deal here, the backup light fuse blows on a 1999 Neon and the AC quits blowing cold. I replace the fuse and the AC starts blowing cold. I found out this is the #8 fuse, 10 amp and it controls the rear window heat, fan relay, ac cycling switch and backup lights.
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When in the mountains our van heats up, and our mechanic doesn't know what to suggest.
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I have a 99 Forester L. My headlights, taillights, fog lights and dash lights don't work. checked all fuses both under hood and on driver side. Relays are fine bulbs are good as well as switch its self.
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My 2006 Azera Limited keeps blowing its backup fuse (10amp) whenever I so much as move an inch in reverse. Moving from P to D (or even past the manual gate) is OK, as long as I don't take my foot off the brake when passing R.
I've so far burned through 4 fuses and still don't know what the problem is.
Here's some history:
The first time this happened yesterday AM, I just replaced the blown b/up fuse with the spare 10amp and the car ran fine the whole day, including several feet of reversing.
The second time this happened was today AM. I ran out of extra fuses, and decided to use the ABS (10amp) fuse instead, to be able to go pick up extra fuses at the local autoparts store. On the drive, I kept seeing check engine and ABS failure messages on the IP, as expected.
After I replaced the 2nd blown fuse, the check engine light came on. I didn't have my code reader with me (it's a funky bluetooth obd reader + android tablet, and i don't always carry the tablet). Had the local gas station look at the codes, and was told of "speed sensor" and a "high-speed controller link" error codes.
Reversed out of the parking spot at the gas station, and the fuse blew again. Twice.
Nothing on the car (other than as described above) has changed in the past several months. I haven't had the car washed for over 6months, but did drive in the rain several weeks ago. There haven't been any other changes at all (I opened the hood up just yesterday after several weeks of not needing to). The car is stock, there haven't been any major modifications (except, I removed an aftermarket nav system and put the stock 6cd radio back, but that was several months ago).
I'm pretty sure there's some sort of electrical fault somewhere, but can't quite figure out what / where.
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B1602 PATS Recieved Invalid FMT/Key CD
P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical
P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical
P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Fault
P1760 Pressure Control Solenoid A Short
p0305 Cylinder 5 misfire Detected
P0316 Engine misfire Detected on Startup
The Trans will unlock while driving for a few seconds then lock back up and drive fine, it seems to be worse over the past couple days. It is no different cold or hot. I also noticed the head lights dim and the voltage on my scanner drops to around 12 volts when the trans disengages. When it is not acting up it drives and shifts perfect.
I have checked a few grounds that were visible and cleaned battery connections. The misfire code has been fixed, not related.
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I have a 2001 Oldsmobile Silhouette that started to overheat yesterday. Was on the red, and the red light on the dash had just turned on. I pulled off to the side of the road, turned the car off and let it sit a few minutes. Turned it back on, and drove further than the first time to get a scheduled oil change and no more overheating problems for that drive. Had them check my radiator fluid and they said it was fine. Car sat the rest of the day, and went out in the evening - car started to overheat, (past 3/4) and I started revving it, and it cooled off on it's own, and remained cool the rest of the evening. This morning, it's doing the same thing again. Begins to over heat, so I turned it off. Turn it back on, and it's fine. Had new head gaskets put in, in 2009 at about 90,000 but aside from that and some wheel work, that's all I know that's been an issue since I purchased it in 2006.
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ok i have a 2000 passat v6 last nite i was removing my trunk light because it went out, after that i closed my trunk and went to park my car in the garage but wen i tried turning it on it wouldnt the headlights turn on the dashboard lights turn on but my alarm doesnt lock or unlock. My interior lights dont work either. i checked my fuses and their all fine. I tried jump starting it but that didnt do anything either what can the problem be?
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This car has 210k miles with very minimal problems. I'm the original owner and have always done my own repair work. For the last two years the car has been surging on acceleration. It is fairly rapid surging and it is intermittent. When it is especially bad I can let up on the throttle, press again and it may be OK...until the next time I accelerate. I have replaced a lot of parts, there are no trouble codes and nothing noticed in the data streams. I've tried four throttle position sensors (second one failed and set a code) and nothing makes any difference.
Here is a list of other parts I've replaced since this problem started, again nothing changes the surging, fuel pump (failed level sensor), fuel pressure regulator (pressure was on low side of range), idle air motor, map sensor, mass air flow sensor (swapped with my S10 pickup). I'm planning to donate the car to an organization after I get this problem fixed (my wife won't let me donate it with the surging problem since it could be safety issue if the car doesn't accelerate when its needed).
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2000 Venture short wheelbase 122k miles. Original owner from brand new. Has had fuel pump replaced at 40K, intake manifold replaced and full trans (torque converter inclusive) flush, plugs and wires at 75K. (2005) All fluids checked regularly.
Recent problem. Noticed a "grinding/buzzing" sound when traveling above 25 mph. Sound is commensurate with veh speed (not engine speed). If I turn the wheel ever so slightly to the right, the sound "deepens"/gets louder), and I can feel the buzzing in the steering wheel. When I release from turning right, or turn left, the buzzing greatly decreases (though I still hear it), and I can no longer feel it in the steering wheel. I only feel it when I turn the wheel to the right, even just a few degrees.
My thoughts on the culprit (in no particular order): Wheel bearing, Transaxle/final drive (differential). ???????
Wheel bearings: No work done on front wheels/hubs. I did rotors and brake pads in April 2009 (115K). Visual inspection of all of the under car and front end. Nothing appeared out of the ordinary.
Transaxle/Diffierential: Who knows? I have had other vehicles with a normal differential/rear end, that had a bad bearing and I could usually tell which side, just by driving/turning Usually it was an outer bearing (wheel), not an axle bearing (diff).
Observations:
1..Periodically over the last 2-3 years or so, I have had to add about a 8-12 oz of coolant to the overflow every 8 mos or so. I don't know where it goes. I presume it is evaporating somewhere or VERY slowly leaking. Nothing external that can be visually noticed.
2.. Last week I checked the trans fluid. Was off the stick. Had to add 3 qts Dexron VI to bring it to full mark on stick. First two qts. barely registered on the stick. Prior to that last check was at 118k (5 k ago) and June of 2009. My written notes at the time mention "Normal. Didn't smell or look burnt, and no particulate matter in the fluid". Has been a week and the fluid level is still holding fine. Where did the 3 quarts go ???
3.. Opened radiator cap. No sludge or "strawberry milkshake" evidence of trans fluid. Looks fairly clear and orange. About what I would expect for a veh of this age and mileage. All lines to and from trans and radiator look ok. No evidence of leaking ANYWHERE.
4.. Runs an normal temps throughout the year
5.. Shifts fine with no slipping, clunking, grinding (during shifting).
6.. Overall vehicle runs, shifts, handles, and stops well.
7.. Every few weeks the ABS light comes on and then goes out after the next start.
If it's a wheel bearing (and I am leaning that way) How can I determine which side I need to replace? If I turn right, I "load" the left one. Noise gets louder. If I turn left, I "load" the right one. Given the above symptoms should I presume the left one?
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I have a power steering fluid leak. I believe (it appears to be) it is coming from what is described in the manual as the "power steering cooling pipe". It looks like it is right up front just behind the radiator on the cross member, and perhaps may have rusted through. All of the pipe is intact except one small corroded area.
I looked at the procedure in the manual to replace this and it looks rather complicated.
I figured I would just cut the leaky section out, and replace it with double hose clamps and a piece of fuel line.
My main question is: Is this in the return circuit (low pressure) or the supply circuit...High pressure.
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155k miles ... Just started last night. Coming into a left turn with brakes, the ABS engages (buzzes and I can feel it in the pedal). doesn't do it when braking straight or braking and turning right.
Left front wheel bearing (and ABS sensor) was replaced 2.5 years ago. Right one never done.
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Long story short it stopped working. I have tried the reset method with no luck and I can't seem to get it to give me the codes per the factory service manual. This is what I do know when you release the door it unlatches but won't open, I can hear the motor trying to run but it won't pull the door open and it sounds like it immediately reverses but the door does not move.
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I tried to convert the bulbs in my dashboard with LED bulbs..and it worked for about a month and stop working..then about a week after not having any dash lights. They came back on...but like a strobe, but not all the time..... And then it'll be fine? I'm also looking Into doing a taillight conversion to LEDs.
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One of my light bulbs for the rear license plate light is out.
what kind of light bulb I need to get?
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I replaced the driver's side wheel bearing on my 2001 venture and now the ABS light goes on about 5 to 10 seconds after starting the car. It stays on through out the drive. Before the light goes on I get a sound as if passing your fingers up and down an old fashioned washboard. I have read throughout these threads to replace the bearing but I don't foresee that happening. How can this bearing be bad when the car feels great driving now.
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It's a 2000 3.4 ... while i was driving on the highway the ses came on and it started running rough checked it when i got home cylinder 6 misfire came up so i did a compression test it only had 30 psi..there was a hole in a valve so i put on new heads changed the plugs and wires and a bunch of other things. put it all back together and it still does the same thing except now i have 160 psi in cylinder 6. I tried another coil, ICM, fuel injector, plug, wire and nothing changes.
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My venture just started showing the warning light...red color has me leaving it parked in my lane way until I can figure out how serious it is. I've searched the Internet but not yet found an answer. What code means and whether I can drive or should tow it to repair shop.
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My 2000 LS V6 is overheating. Fan seems okay. I replaced thermostat. Still overheating. What's weird is the 2 hoses above the thermostat housing are piping hot, while the hose beneath the housing is cool. Possible I replaced a bad thermostat with a bad one from the factory?
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Converting DLR to yellow fog lights? What bulbs to use?
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The Right DRL Not Working on my 2005 Venture. I checked the following, also note the turn signal works and the following are ok.
Bulb
Bulb Socket
Socket harness
All Fuses and relays
When I turn on the headlights the day-time bulb lights...
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