155k miles ... Just started last night. Coming into a left turn with brakes, the ABS engages (buzzes and I can feel it in the pedal). doesn't do it when braking straight or braking and turning right.
Left front wheel bearing (and ABS sensor) was replaced 2.5 years ago. Right one never done.
My 2000 s-10 pulls to the left when i'm braking. I've replaced pads, rotors, and both calipers and it still pulls to the left.
View 1 RepliesI havent had my 2000 taurus too long.... Last week a knocking noise started. It usually happens when I am turning but there have been a few times it does it when I am braking. It doesn't happen right away - just after I've been driving for at least 15 minutes or so....
I got this looked at last weekend at by a mechanic and they drove it and didnt hear a thing and supposedly things underneath looked okay. I can tell that things ARE NOT OKAY. Also, since this knocking started, my alignment seems to have gotten off a bit. I may be a blonde but I've had enough problems with past cars that I usually know what I'm talking about!!!!
I have a 2002 Accent that has recently started to sway side to side when I'm turning left. It almost feels like the back end is swaying but it's hard to tell. I've recently had the CV Boots replaced as they were torn but I don't think that's related at all.
I'm wondering if it could be the suspension. I've looked at all the wheel housing and checked the steering rod for any play but everything seems fine. If it could be the suspension how would I go about checking it.
When braking at very slow speeds(less than 5 mph), my ABS system engages. It can be startling and the truck keeps rolling forward unless I pump the brakes to get it to stop. The truck is drivable, I just have to be careful when pulling into our garage or slowing behind someone at a traffic stop. What could be causing this?
View 2 Replies2000 3.5L
On a hard left high speed turn, it vibrates under load. Also while under throttle when making a second gear left hand turn.
Noise will come and go when going over dips at high speeds under load. I have already replaced the left Half shaft.
I am a master mechanic and have had success with changing a half shaft on a similar situation. Looking for other possibilities before I throw another half shaft at it.
I have a 2000 F-350,7.3, 6 speed. Just the other day I made a turn and my passenger got her feet wet. It had been raining and I also had the ac on. A couple of days later the same thing happened, but it had not rained, just the ac on. What is causing this. I do see condensate discharging under the truck.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT V6 FWD. about 138, xxx miles
My left rear tire/wheel has free - play (clicking movement) when grabbed at ONLY the 3 o'clock position and push/pulled back and forth (no free-play at 12-6 direction) in the air.
I had grinding noise from rear left side wheel when turning right couple weeks ago. After replacing wheel hub bearing assembly, the noise is gone. But still remains the movement ONLY at 3 o'clock. I replaced stabilizer bar links in both rear sides. This link doesn't look like the reason of free-play (clicking movement).
Also, I tested (push or pull) after switching the other side(right) wheel, it still had clicking movement at 3 pm. Therefore, it is not a wheel problem itself, I guess.
And I took off the wheel and fasten the lug nuts onto the rotor itself (so, without wheel in this case), then push/pull the rotor at 3 pm, but this time no movement in any directions. @@;; weird.. ONLY, I can feel the clicking movement at 3pm on the Wheel (or tire) even after rotating wheel, exactly in same spot (3 pm) movement~!!!! What's this case??
All 4 wheels aligned recently after got new tires.
I scrutinized inside wheel while pushing/pulling back and forth. But I cannot figure out which one is problem.
1. Knuckle.
2. Lower control arm ( or Rear rear control arm, not typo) which has a Ball joint and a cam bolt the other side.
3. Rear front control arm
4. trailing arm.
5. stabilizer bar link. (new)
6. Wheel hub bearing assembly (new, double-checked the nuts and torques)
7. Rotor and pads (new, if I push the rotor itself then no wobble or clicking at all directions as desribed above)
Where should I direct my attention and/or what component(s) should I look at given the indications above?
When I pull/push the wheel at 3 o'clock, it feels like wiggling the whole part of lower knuckle where is the connection part between the part of 4 bolt (backside) of hub assembly and lower side of knuckle.
I heard that 12 and 6 is usually an indication of ball joint, and play 9 and 3 is usually in indication of steering components ( tie rods , steering shaft or rack itself ), and all around play is an indication of wheel bearing (usually accompanied with a growling noise ).
First off my trucks a 2000 v10 f250 with four-wheel drive and 2 wheel abs with about 230000 miles on it.
I Recently replaced my unit bearing on my drivers side because I thought it was the cause of a grinding that only happens on hard left turns but I wasnt the cause it was going bad causing play in the half shaft. I didnt seem to notice and wear on the shaft from bad needle bearings but I have to take it all apart again to be sure. Was just wondering what else could be the cause of this noise. I plan to pull the axel shaft and change all the seals.
I have a 2006 GMC Yukon XL 4WD 1500 with 95,000 miles. When I make left turns, after coming to a stop, the antilock brake system engages, making a groaning-pumping sort of sound in the upper front left area under the hood. (This does not happen every time I turn after stops, but frequently.) My local GMC dealer mechanic believes that there is a faulty wheel bearing, and that a signal is being sent to the antilock brake system to engage. Not sure whether I should believe that or not. The repair would be expensive.
View 4 RepliesRhe problem is that both sides blink fast the left one used to blink normally sometimes and fast again. All the light bulbs work and are not led. I found the problem on the right side : in the front the side light blinks but the drl doesn't blink with it. Now both sides blink fast. What part of the car i should check ?
View 3 RepliesThe problem is that both sides blink fast the left one used to blink normally sometimes and fast again all the lightbulbs work and are not led i found the problem on the right side : in the front the side light blinks but the drl doesnt blink with it now both sides blink fast. What my problems might be? What part of the car i should check ?
View 3 Replies2010 F-150 King Ranch. Randomly when turning left, it feels like the left front brake is engaging and it sounds like your anti-lock brakes when you come to a stop on slush or snow. The truck slows with your foot still on the gas, Saturday it came to a complete stop before it released.
I have had it to 2 Ford dealerships, the first could not get the symptom to occur on a test drive and told me there was nothing they could do because they did not now what to look at.
The dealer I bought it from got it to act up, replaced the IWE 2 weeks ago and 3 days later was still doing same thing. My wife dropped the truck at the dealer again Weds.morning, she told them it did it on the way there. I called at 4:30 to check and they said they drove it 2 times and it did not act up.
This car has 210k miles with very minimal problems. I'm the original owner and have always done my own repair work. For the last two years the car has been surging on acceleration. It is fairly rapid surging and it is intermittent. When it is especially bad I can let up on the throttle, press again and it may be OK...until the next time I accelerate. I have replaced a lot of parts, there are no trouble codes and nothing noticed in the data streams. I've tried four throttle position sensors (second one failed and set a code) and nothing makes any difference.
Here is a list of other parts I've replaced since this problem started, again nothing changes the surging, fuel pump (failed level sensor), fuel pressure regulator (pressure was on low side of range), idle air motor, map sensor, mass air flow sensor (swapped with my S10 pickup). I'm planning to donate the car to an organization after I get this problem fixed (my wife won't let me donate it with the surging problem since it could be safety issue if the car doesn't accelerate when its needed).
Ok I am at my wits end with this. I have a 2000 Mustang GT 5-speed with 80k miles. When the A/C is on it will occasionally misfire at steady, low (between 1-2k) RPMs and will have a fluctuating idle as well. Occasionally the fluctuating idle is bad enough that it stalls out. It only does this when the compressor is engaged. It sounds like a vacuum leak, but I have checked and cannot find any sort of vacuum leak. Also, it throws a P0300 (Random/Multiple misfire) code. When the A/C is off it runs like a charm. Here is everything that I have done...
Replaced COPs
Replaced spark plugs
Cleaned MAF sensor
Cleaned IAC valve
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced fuel pump (unrelated to this, the old one just died)
Ran seafoam through the motor
New battery (again, unrelated)
and maybe some other stuff I am forgetting
Also, I have taken some readings:
Fuel pressure @ idle ~32psi
Vacuum @ idle ~17in Hg
Had alternator tested - OK
Pressure in A/C system checked out OK (though I did use one of those AZ cans with a gauge on it, not sure how reliable that is)
Also, the A/C works great. It's like an arctic wind in there.
I am at a total loss for what to do. I would suspect it's something with the motor that is simply exacerbated by the added load of the A/C but I suppose it could be the A/C compressor? Is it possible that it needs lube? Doesn't the freon lube the compressor? (The pressure indicates it's fully charged and the A/C blows cold AF) ...
2000 Venture short wheelbase 122k miles. Original owner from brand new. Has had fuel pump replaced at 40K, intake manifold replaced and full trans (torque converter inclusive) flush, plugs and wires at 75K. (2005) All fluids checked regularly.
Recent problem. Noticed a "grinding/buzzing" sound when traveling above 25 mph. Sound is commensurate with veh speed (not engine speed). If I turn the wheel ever so slightly to the right, the sound "deepens"/gets louder), and I can feel the buzzing in the steering wheel. When I release from turning right, or turn left, the buzzing greatly decreases (though I still hear it), and I can no longer feel it in the steering wheel. I only feel it when I turn the wheel to the right, even just a few degrees.
My thoughts on the culprit (in no particular order): Wheel bearing, Transaxle/final drive (differential). ???????
Wheel bearings: No work done on front wheels/hubs. I did rotors and brake pads in April 2009 (115K). Visual inspection of all of the under car and front end. Nothing appeared out of the ordinary.
Transaxle/Diffierential: Who knows? I have had other vehicles with a normal differential/rear end, that had a bad bearing and I could usually tell which side, just by driving/turning Usually it was an outer bearing (wheel), not an axle bearing (diff).
Observations:
1..Periodically over the last 2-3 years or so, I have had to add about a 8-12 oz of coolant to the overflow every 8 mos or so. I don't know where it goes. I presume it is evaporating somewhere or VERY slowly leaking. Nothing external that can be visually noticed.
2.. Last week I checked the trans fluid. Was off the stick. Had to add 3 qts Dexron VI to bring it to full mark on stick. First two qts. barely registered on the stick. Prior to that last check was at 118k (5 k ago) and June of 2009. My written notes at the time mention "Normal. Didn't smell or look burnt, and no particulate matter in the fluid". Has been a week and the fluid level is still holding fine. Where did the 3 quarts go ???
3.. Opened radiator cap. No sludge or "strawberry milkshake" evidence of trans fluid. Looks fairly clear and orange. About what I would expect for a veh of this age and mileage. All lines to and from trans and radiator look ok. No evidence of leaking ANYWHERE.
4.. Runs an normal temps throughout the year
5.. Shifts fine with no slipping, clunking, grinding (during shifting).
6.. Overall vehicle runs, shifts, handles, and stops well.
7.. Every few weeks the ABS light comes on and then goes out after the next start.
If it's a wheel bearing (and I am leaning that way) How can I determine which side I need to replace? If I turn right, I "load" the left one. Noise gets louder. If I turn left, I "load" the right one. Given the above symptoms should I presume the left one?
I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent. The factory alarm goes off intermittently and the central locking engages at times without warning.
I took it to an Auto Electrician who checked it over but couldn't work out the problem. So i took it to the dealer who said it was most likely the bonnet sensor. I wasn't convinced but they went ahead and charged $150 to diagnose and adjust the sensor and said everything would be fine.
Within one day of being 'fixed' the problem has reappeared. I am getting sick of disconnecting a battery terminal every night....
I have a power steering fluid leak. I believe (it appears to be) it is coming from what is described in the manual as the "power steering cooling pipe". It looks like it is right up front just behind the radiator on the cross member, and perhaps may have rusted through. All of the pipe is intact except one small corroded area.
I looked at the procedure in the manual to replace this and it looks rather complicated.
I figured I would just cut the leaky section out, and replace it with double hose clamps and a piece of fuel line.
My main question is: Is this in the return circuit (low pressure) or the supply circuit...High pressure.
Long story short it stopped working. I have tried the reset method with no luck and I can't seem to get it to give me the codes per the factory service manual. This is what I do know when you release the door it unlatches but won't open, I can hear the motor trying to run but it won't pull the door open and it sounds like it immediately reverses but the door does not move.
View 14 Replies2002 Ford F250 V10 Auto... When I put the transmission into reverse, the starter kicks in...
View 8 RepliesThis is for a 2000 Silhouette, yet I see there's lots more traffic for the Venture, so thought I'd start here first.
Backup lights don't light, when minivan put into reverse. b/up fuse ok (engine bay, #27), bulbs ok (swapped with new lights, and switched with turn lights, to confirm).
The circuit board is a potential, yet hard to believe that out of 8 bulbs, only 2 would go, and that would be 1 on each side, and only the reverse lights (not the marker, stop, or turn). Will go at it with a multi-meter, to see if there's current, for the next step.
Searches show that it could be the gear position sensor, stuck with what part this would be, and where this part would be. Would this be a pin-to-ground physical sensor, a gear position sensor by the transmission, something linked to the gear selector arm, etc? And once found, is this something that is replaced, or adjusted (imagine the reverse lights going on, when in neutral!)? Still looking for info, on that one.