Venture :: 1989 - Both Power Windows (passenger Side) Won't Go Back Up Sometimes
Jan 22, 2005
I've a Venture 98' & lately I noticed that there are times when I can't close the passenger's side window from both sides. I can open it from both sides but the problem is closing it. Then there would be occasions that it's working ok. But it seems to be getting worse lately.
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I have a 2001 vw passat v6. The drivers side window works when it wants to, the front passenger and the back drivers side windows wont go down at all and the passenger back window works only when the front drivers window does. The switches are lit up with the windows that don't work..like there is no power going to them. The power locks do the same..with the same problem windows. It has an after market car alarm, so could that be the problem.
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My passenger side power sliding door on my 2003 Olds Silhouette (147,000 miles) Occasionally will quit working. We can open it and close it manually and sometimes it will start working again, other times it won't work for several days and then all of a sudden it works again.
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Passengers can roll down the power windows on front passenger door and both back doors. But, they cannot roll the windows back up. The only way they can do that is to have me do it from the driver door. The window lock button is unlocked. I am thinking some is wrong with the driver main window controller since it all goes back to it.
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My 1994 Camry's pass. window will not roll up. I replaced the motor but same result. It goes down great! Drivers side control doesn't work at all.
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I have a 2004 Chevy Venture and the blower (Vent, AC, Heater, doesn't matter) is only blowing air out of the left or driver side of the van, nothing on the passenger side vents. There aren't 2 blower motors, are there? Is a door shut that shouldn't be? This van doesn't have dual climate control like my GM cars do. The rear controls work fine for the 2nd row passengers. Again, not tied to any blower speed or heat vs. AC. Same regardless. Nothing on the passenger side.
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I purchased a 2005 chevy colorado today, and when I got home I found out that the power windows on the passenger side don't work, I can hear a clicking sound coming from the front and rear doors when I press the buttons, but the windows don't move.
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My two back windows would go down but not up. My passenger side was hesitant. My drivers side was fine. I purchased a new master switch for the drivers side. When I tested it, the three other windows worked fine, but the drivers side (front) would do nothing. So I ordered a replacement and plugged it in. The same thing. The three other windows work fine (up and down) but the drivers front does nothing. When I put the original master switch back in, the drivers front works, but the back windows go down but not up and the passenger front is hesitant.
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i have an 89 ford ranger custom and my driver side tail light works just fine but my passenger doesnt work when i mash the brake the passenger side brake light wont come on. the parking lights work, turn signals, and hazards work but the brake light. ive checked the wires and replaced the socket and still the same problem so either theres something in the wires that im missing or i dont know what else. any hints?
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The brake line on the passengers side went bad. Called ford for replacement and they said ford is not supplying that line any more. Where I can get a replacement? Its hard line and connects to the rubber line.
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I have a small coolant leak coming from the passenger side near the back of the engine that forms a spot about the size of a dinner plate if it sits for a few days.
One thing I noticed is if I turn off the AC selector switch when I park I will get the drip but if I leave the switch on MAX AC when I shut the truck off I do not get any leaking.
It is definitely coolant and not just the condensation from use of the AC. If I haven't used the truck for a few days or if I have run it with the AC off I will get the drips.
If I run with the AC on and leave the switch in the on position when I shut the truck off it won't leak. I have tried to locate it from looking above and below but can't determine where it is coming from.
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My passenger and back door windows won't open with the use of their switches. I can open all three with the master control. I thought the master switch was bad and replaced it. The problem persists. Are these individual switches for the passenger and back doors in series, where one goes out and none work ?
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89 v6 4Runner. When I turn the key forward you hear a "click" coming from the passenger side fender area. After a few turns the engine will turn over and away you go. Yesterday for the first time after a few clicks I lost all power to my instrument panel, no dash lights no gauges working and no click, nothing. Stereo, cigarette lighter still had power, even reset my dash clock so it lost all connections as well. Every few turns I would get lights back and turn the key to start and click and dead again. Eventually I bump started the engine, drove home and here I sit.
Relay box by the front fender... this is where the click is coming from, looked at a few posts from yoda tech and one person suggested cutting the no 4 line for the ignition system off the relay box and have it go directly to the pos post for the battery. This will be a closed circuit from the battery post direct to the starter relay yes?
Relay box is probably just getting old and wires are beat up. My electrical is not the best for sure. Can I just clean up the wires going to the relay box(es)?
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I just recently replaced the driver side 4-button window switch with one from AARodriguez (FixmyVW.com) on my 2001 MKIV Golf. The new switch had been working fine, but over the last few months, the back windows intermittently wouldn't roll down. It was a gradual process that started when I realized that the windows would actually start to roll back DOWN when I was rolling them UP, or was it vice versa... regardless, it was backwards, and I would have to do it a few times to get it to work properly.
Now, the windows won't roll down at all using the driver's switch, but I do hear a click in the back doors as though some connection is being made. The windows just won't budge. The switches on the back doors work flawlessly, so I don't think it's the motors. The switches for the front windows on the new 4-button switch work fine. There's always a possibility I got a bum switch, or that this one went out, I suppose.
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This is a 2013 Santa Fe Sport. This started as intermittent, but the windows for passenger side have stopped responding to the switches. I can hear the relay in each of the windows click when we hit the buttons but the motor doesn't engage. Sadly I couldn't reproduce before the 60k warranty went up and they won't cover it. They have said its the master control switch, but I don't believe that being that I can hear the individual relays engage on each of the windows when the buttons are pressed. They want $500 to do the master control switch.
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My 02 venture has about 52k. my driver side power window is having an issue. while closing the window, when it reaches the midway point of being closed, it tilts forward a bit, and slows to almost a stop before it finally resumes closing normally.
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It's my turn, while out site seeing my back seat power window don't work , the control from drivers seat or from the back seat door control, I popped both covers on the control switch and both are firmly plugged in, I don't have my meter with me to see if power is running back to the switch , this morning I'll try to switch out the two back seat controls to see if I can get at least that window to go down , 04 350 , would there be a fuse for each or is it in the switch in the door that the harness plugs into , that's the only window that won't go down...
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I just switched to driving my wifes 06 v6 Camry a few months ago. A few days ago I noticed that coming from the passenger side I can hear a noise when driving with my windows down. It's quite obviously coming from one of the wheels as its a kind of scrapping noise that speeds up if I speed up.
Here's the thing... this happened once before, the exact same noise, and my wife took it to a shop in our hometown when I was out of the country on business. She says that "a piece was missing and they replaced the piece and now it stopped making the noise". She doesn't have the receipt or remember where the place was so I can call and ask exactly what they did.
So my question is... if this is in fact the same issue... what piece of the brakes or tires or whatever could fall off and cause a strange scrapping noise.... It almost sounds like the wear sensor the brakes, but I checked the pads and they seem fine.
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I can fully operate driver's side window with the master control located in the driver's side door. When I push the button to lower the passenger's windows or any of the rear windows nothing happens. The front passenger and rear passenger can fully operate the windows with the switch located in each door. Is there a setting that is preventing me from controlling the other 3 windows?.
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The driver side window goes up/down faster than the passenger one. I believe it has always been like that. Do you think that is a feature? Why is that? Could that be a defect?
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Passengers windows won't roll down from driver side master controls. If I go on singulars doors all windows roll down/up perfectly. From master control drivers position I can only roll down/up my window.
I have already reset all windows... sun roof too. Tried to disconnect battery 10 minutes and then reset all windows another time.
If I use the command key for roll down/up all windows together the car roll down/up only drivers window and sun roof.
I have a 2004 lexus rx 300.
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