Vauxhall - Corsa :: EML Came On - Seems To Have No Power
Feb 27, 2015
Engine management light suddenly came on one morning the car seemed ok but wasn't liking uphills to the point i would start the bottom of the hill at 50mph in 4th gear and by the top of the hill. I am in 2nd going 25mph or less depending of the hill (this is with my right foot going thru the floor). after making it home called up my mechanic he came out with his diagnostic kit and told my its a misfire and id need to replace the spark plugs and coilpack after this it still didn't seem right so he replaced the air intake sensor.
It made a small difference to the sound of the car but driving it again it still wasn't going up hills very well. then the next thing i no it wont even start after a few attempts I wasn't even getting any lights nor was the engine even attempting to turn over so i went inside called my man and he said it was the battery so today i got a new battery and it works she starts but still struggles to go uphill. I am now being told that it could be a problem with the starter motor and maybe that the new air intake sensor needs time to program with the ecu but I am not sure...
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My car struggles to reach 70mph, to the point where uphill on a motorway i come to like 30mph. also it has terrible acceleration where i struggle to get out onto roundabouts and sometimes when I start the car it doesn't start first time and the second time it takes like 5-8 seconds to turn over. it only has 65000 and its a 3 cylinder 1.0L vauxhall corsa. I am going to replace the spark plugs tomorrow as I was thinking that's what it would be but I am not sure.
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I purchased a 2005 Opel Corsa C 1.8l with around 70k miles. The car is in a fantastic shape, I've had it for around 6 months, having driven around 6k miles. The first maintenance I did was changing all oils and filters, and changing the accesory belt (the one that powers the alternator, that one is not dented). I was told back then at the workshop that the timing belt (not sure if that is the correct name for the belt with dents that syncs valves, etc.) was in a good shape. I don't know if the previous owner/s ever changed it. I understand that the damage done when that belt breaks could get pretty serious, with bent valves, mainly. The question is, should I change the belt now? How long do those last?
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My 1.2 54plate Corsa has been dropping a very small amount of fluid its dropping from the front left hand side but not sure on exact location the fluid is to watery to be oil I think but is worrying me it seems to be covering a fairly large area under the car but it doesn't drop only in very small quantities?
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I drive a 2002 Opel Corsa and am completely clueless when it comes to anything beyond changing oil and tires...
My windshield wipers have suddenly begun to stop their movement in the top position instead of at the bottom, thereby getting in the way of driving. The wiping function still works perfectly, so it doesn't seem to be a motor issue. The wipers just stop in the wrong position when turned off.
I happened to be at the garage for something else, and the guy there said that he would just have to replace the motor, but to try to to find a used part somewhere so that it wouldn't cost a lot. I think it seems silly to replace the motor for something that seems simple.
How to reset the default of the wipers? Is there a way to just remove the blades and change the position or something?
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I am still failing to appropriately diagnose the problem(s) with my '03 Ford E-350 7.3L Powerstroke. This van has only 69,000 miles on it. A week or two back (just a few days back in work time) it suddenly went from running perfectly smooth, clean and wonderful to this:
- Zero power. Putting the van in gear and flooring the engine causes lots more smoke not nearly any rev of the engine and just a crawl forward.
- Lots of smoke out the back exhaust, whitish. I cannot discern wether it smells like diesel or oil (because I'm ignorant here), but the smell is very strong.
- After warming up and idling ~ 15 min I check under the coolant cap and see no signs of bubbling or disruption (from opening the cap in the coolant tank).
- After warming up there are no warning lights visible on the dash, and I don't have a computer to read codes (if there are any to read).
- I replaced the turbo up-pipes which had a visible leak previously. This did not hurt the symptoms, though no more visual leaks under the dog house.
- I thought maybe I put gasoline instead of diesel in the truck, not so.
- To do the above test I had to use the fuel pump to get gas out the tank to test. I hijacked the fuel pump output and turned the car on a few times to get gas out to a tank. The pump seemed to work just fine.
This was all very sudden which is perplexing, and, in use, the van was previously an ambulette and in my few miles with it (maybe 200-300 only) use was extremely light for such an engine/van, just driving around doing errands. I am not sure if this is relevant (no one has suggested so, yet) but before all this happened I uninstalled the rear HVAC that came with the van when I bought it. The AC lines were sealed under the hood. The coolant line was returned at the doghouse (you can see this at the beginning of the video).
At the moment the van has no power to go anywhere. I have not yet checked the CPS or IPC sensors, and understand this might be the next route in standard troubleshooting?
2003 Ford E 350 7.3L Trouble - YouTube....
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On occasion, on the power generation screen, I see just the motor applying power to the wheels. this only lasts about 2-3 seconds and I can't see any pattern to it (speed, going down grade, cold, warm etc). Is this normal?
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My 2004 6.0 has lost some power and the head gasket is leaking into the coolant. How long can i continue to drive the truck before too much damage is done to the engine?
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I have a 2001 ford 7.3l powerstroke diesel. When I first noticed the problem I was towing a trailer going up a grade and got into the throttle almost to the floor and noticed a loss of power and the service engine soon light flashing extremely rapidly a few times and never came back on. I made it home, still lacking power but not running rough. I drove the truck to work the next day and the truck was running rougher and loosing power. It ran great through lower RPM's but seemed to trip as soon as you gave it over half throttle. eventually the truck wouldn't run right at all and lacked complete power. It idled rough as well. My mechanic threw the computer on it and it said injector pressure reading too high or too low.
I was told to replace the IPR on the HPOP and I did. (I also replaced the fuel filter and changed the oil). After replacing the IPR it ran great, had full power! then it began to slowly die like it did before until it sounded like it was running off 4 cylinders again. I pulled the ipr out, cleaned it and changed the oil again. It seemed to clear it up for an hour and ran great but then began ran rough again. I also replaced the CPS sensor. I feel like its not getting enough fuel or something, im just wondering if it could be the ICP or the lift pump. There is no check engine light at all. Its just got me stumped because cleaning the IPR clears everything up.... temporarily.
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Ok so the saga is continuing, not sure if its because enigma hates this mod or if I shorted something out when I was cutting the wires and mistakenly touched the ends together (protected terminal ends) some how or the monitor piece is just old and the fact that it has been my previous truck and this truck for a total combined 8+ years causing this conundrum....anyways the gauge seems to work (yay?) but it looks to read only "8"DC V?? but I know the power port (in dash) works as expected....so I am a bit lost here....one of the digits does look to be faded out as if the device perhaps is going bad and needs replacement....
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I recently bought an 03 F350. I've noticed on cold starts that it has no power. After about 5 minutes it runs very well. I have not noticed any misfires or smoke and there are no codes thrown. Based on what I have read here, I assumed it was a FICM issue. I just got done testing it and it was at a solid 48v with 1 dip to 46 on engine crank. I'm baffled at this point. The truck literally has no other issues except low power for the first 5 minutes.
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Have a 2004 f250 that is having issues. Once the truck is started the idle goes from normal to loud almost sounds like its going to stall. A few weeks back the same happened when i was on a red light. It choked almost to where it was going to die. I accelerated when light turned green and would not move at all. I had to literally use full throttle to get out the road at about 5 mph. I pulled in to a gas station and fueled up as i had a quarter of diesel left and it stopped the rough idle and power starvation once i started the truck up again. It sees like this time its getting more persistent... FML AND THESE 6.0 problems
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I just finished a cab swap and I'm having a little trouble. Here's a link to what I've done : [URL] ....
KOEO the WTS light, battery light, SES light all stay on and no power to fuel pump. No communication with PCM (using AE). All fuses are good, but no power to PCM fuse (#22). When I apply 12v to #22, the truck will start and idle - but poorly because I still don't think fuel pump comes on. The idiot lights all stay the same.
I did get to pull codes while it was running and got stuff like IAT circuit high (its not plugged in), fuel pump relay short to batttery, and a few other short to battery things (park assist stuff IIRC). I thought that might have something to do with the redneck idea to boost the fuse with an external power source?
Just thinking while typing, I don't have 3rd brake light hooked up yet (just thought of that, I'll hook it up first) and bed/bumper are not installed, so no tail lights or park assist stuff is hooked up. I'm also not using overhead computer, so it's not plugged in.
My next step is to go back through all of the connectors and make sure something isn't 1/2 way plugged in or possibly plugged into the wrong place(s).
Looking thru the wiring diagrams is not a strong subject for me, but I was trying to figure out how power gets to the fuse and how PCM relay works (does it complete circuit to ground to energize the coil?).
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OK...I ask that you bear with me while I explain my question/issue.
I bought a used 2006 F350 Super Duty diesel last October (Oct 2015) and it has about 124,500 miles on it now. Last week, the power cut out as I was driving home from running an errand. Jumped it and got it back to the house. Suspected the alternator as both batteries tested low (according to AutoZone). Purchased the 110amp alternator and after a few days...I was able to get the alternator installed. AutoZone charged the batteries back up.
Today, I was able to start the truck and drive it around the block in order to make sure everyone was okay - before I took it out on the streets. Got back to the driveway....ABS light comes on, radio shuts off, odometer light goes off, etc. I shut the engine off and let it sit for a minute. Try to start it back up...and nothing happens. Ended up disconnecting both batteries while I ponder the root cause of the issue.
Is it possible the 110amp alternator is not strong enough to handle the power requirements (and that's why the dashboard lights went out)? To the best of my knowledge, there's only 1 alternator. The only "extra" that's installed is the tow/haul package (which I haven't used yet). According to the Ford Parts web site - after I enter the VIN for my truck - the results show a 110amp alternator (heavy duty alternator).
Would exchanging the 110amp for the 140amp be the most logical place to start? Or is there something I missed as a replaced the alternator?
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2003 F-350 - 7.3. With the key in the on position there is zero voltage to the fuel pump. Fuel pump fuse is good. I traced the red with black tracer wire from the pump up through the firewall and to the safety inertia switch. The switch has continuity so it's OK. Then from the safety switch I traced the green with yellow tracer wire to a fuse block plug connector. Then I checked continuity from that connector out to the #40 fuel pump fuse and it's open.
So I then i checked from the fuel pump fuse to all the back connections on the back of the fuse block and there was no continuity to any of them. So I removed the back cover off the fuse block to expose any issues. I found two board mounted relays. Now, from the fuse I get continuity to one of the relay connections. So did Ford hide the fuel pump relay and make it non replaceable? Also if this is the pump relay then what circuit energizes it? I need to make sure before I replace the fuse block.
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i got a 99 F250 powerstroke with 148K on its clock, i have a couple issues that i cant find a definitive answer for, 1 just started recently, Its an automatic and when it shifts into third around 40 mph the rpms drop to 1200-1300 or so, its done it since i got it, but recently it wont accelerate like it should or used to do, i have to put it down and make it downshift to recover.
Now I have no CEL. and it is still running perfect just has very little power, I do have a 4 inch turbo back exhaust and have a TS 6 position chip with i usually run in +50hp mode, but it does this in all positions. Now issue 2 is when its 30 degrees sometimes it will not start. It'll turn over with now fire. but if i cycle the key again it'll fire right up like a champ? It has a 4 month old starter and batteries and a month old alternator and i have tried several CPS' and Contently check the connections.
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So I have a 2002 7.3 Excursion and I think it is low on power. ICP is falling on its face when on a 60 or 80 HP tune. I have some boost leaks at the plenums and will work on that but that shouldn't cause my ICP to tank at full throttle. Following are some numbers I pulled with WOT runs up a 6% grade.
16PSI BOOST
EXHAUST PRESSURE 40
ICP 1900
80%IPRDC
this is with the 60 or 80HP tune on my DP-tuner. If I ease into the throttle I get
2700 ICP with
45%IPRDC
but if I stomp on the throttle it stumbles and ICP tanks.
Running the stock tune I can maintain
2700ICP at
40-45%IPRDC
Is this my HPOP being weak, or worn out injectors, to much of a tune or a combo of all three?
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On the back of my truck I have two plugs to operate trailer lights/brakes etc but I only use one. The one I'm not using (pictured) I'd like to adapt for aux power in the trailer to operate some IP cameras. I need to know about the pin outs of this connector and what gauge wire to use between the trailer and truck. I plan on running the 12V and ground conductors from this plug through an adapter into the trailer.
In the trailer I'll have a 1000W inverter --> UPS --> TL-WR810N Router --> TL-SG1008P POE switch --> and 4 small ip cams.
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So this '06 F350 is blowing fluid from the steering pump fitting when you move steering wheel to either side all the way(lock). Is the internal o-ring blown in the fitting? Do these have the teflon seal at the pump? Pretty new to the 6.0 scene. Got a new line ordered.
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My issue I'm having - 2002 F350 7.3L has an 8 inch bds lift with 37/13.50 tires. I realize these tires are big but... while driving 100kms/hr or 60 miles per hour and I hit the gas the truck barely wants to move (without pulling a load). Thought maybe a turbo but I have no mechanical skills so here I am!
2nd issue, there's a bullydog chip in that truck when I bought it. he said he always ran it on extreme. I found it puffs way to much black when on extreme and on performance it seems a lot better so that's where I have it?.
3rd issue, the transmission gauge on the dash goes into red when climbing up hills ( I live in the rocky mountains so a lot!) but the bullydog chip says the tranny is only at its hottest 140C? I don't believe that's to hot but I do believe my truck is derating a little while the tranny gauge on the dash is in the red? is there any quick fixes out there for these issues.
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I was driving and my truck started have lack of power, could barely get going on hills, tons of blue smoke (smelled like diesel) real rough idle. I unplugged injectors and found #5 made no difference. I replaced it today and I can't get it to start. It'll get to 2000+ psi 48v ficm, low pressure oil registers, ficm says its in sync. It will crank and blow a lot of black like its half firing or something. It has even crank to, until it tries to fire. From what I've been reading could it be the ficm? That one circuit is fried?
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