Vandura :: 1995 - Gas Pedal Is Not Responding Randomly?
Sep 1, 2012
I have a 95 GMC Vandura 2500 with 91000 miles. Yesterday, I got in my truck in the morning (engine was cold) and started it up. It started up fine and backed out of the driveway fine, but when I put it in drive and pressed on the gas, it was unresponsive. I kept trying the gas and it eventually worked. I kept driving, and it happened a couple more times when I would push on the gas and nothing would happen, and then it would kick in. When the engine warmed up, it seemed to happen less. I need to get this fixed because I'm trying to sell the truck.
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We have a '95 GMC Vandura G2500 and today when we took off from a stoplight the van suddenly started vibrating like crazy and running rough. It was making a knocking noise and the van kept shaking the whole way home. The shaking was worse both coming to a stop and accelerating. We could also smell gas when we stuck our heads out the window.
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This car had this problem about 4 years ago when my father in law owned it He had the dealer fix it and they replaced the gas pedal assembly i checked that and it is ok if i shut off the car and restart it the pedal works fine or about 15 seconds then back to idle
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We have a 2007 Camry and today the car died. We got a jump and it started right up. After the car turned over......and was running....the Check engine light came on and nothing happened when we hit the gas pedal. The car will go into both reverse and drive and idle forward and back.....but still the gas is not responsive.
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I have a Nissan Murano 2004 SL AWD.I got the car last year and since I got the car, my gas pedal was not working properly during certain condition. You would think my car is haunted, believe me!
The main problem is: after driving for 30 minutes, when I come to a complete stop, my gas pedal does not respond directly. I have to press the gas pedal all the way and release it for the car to start driving.The more I do this process after the problem occurs, the more time the gas pedal will respond after I completely floor it. For example, after 15 minutes of such problem occurring, I need about 2.5 seconds for the gas pedal to work after flooring it. After 30 min of the problem occurring, I need about 3 sec. to 3.5 sec. and on a hill, the respond time takes even longer!
Now here is the funny part...I have notice that whenever it's hot outside, the problem with my gas pedal does not occur after 30 minutes but it will occur after less time, maybe after 15 to 20 minutes of driving.When it's colder like during the winter the problem will occur after 40 minutes of driving.
Here is another funny thing. When my gas pedal start acting up, if I go to park my car and turn my engine off for about... 5 to 10 minutes, less or more, the gas pedal starts working again for the next 10 to 15 minutes before acting up again.
I really want to fix it.It's not bothering me sometimes but today I was at a red light on a hill and my car just did not accelerate at all for about 3 seconds while my car was sliding down and people beeping at me. It's really getting me irritated!
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My car 2006 Sonata GLS 3.3 litre's throttle pedal stopped responding and the check engine light turned on I scanned the codes came back bad TPS and Pedal Position Sensor so I changed both disconnected the positive battery terminal but still no throughout pedal response and I'm getting P2106, P1295, P0638 and pending codes P0222 and P2135. I'm at a complete loss as to what to do.
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My girlfriends Toyota Echo has been giving her problems it seems. She says that it will randomly not respond to the pedal being pushed. She's not great with cars, but says she doesn't hear it revving. I was thinking dirty fuel filter, but I would think it would be running rough all the time if it was clogged? What it could be?
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I have a 1995 Camry 2.2 that will run perfect for 2 weeks, them randomly it won't start unless you crank on it for a minute or so. Parts I have replaced are fuel pump, fuel filter, ignition coil. This problem has occurred when the engine has been at operating temp and at initial start up.
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My 1995 LeSabre (3800 v6, 62K miles) has a stalling problem, no engine power, but still has electric. It happens randomly and intermittently. Most times it will restart but has been increasingly difficult to restart. The only indicator prior to stalling is the speedometer "surges" and then the loss of power. Dash lights come on (oil, voltage, CEL). Sometimes the CEL will flash in time with a fast clicking that I believe comes from the fuel pump relay under the right side of the dash. Until this clicking stops the engine will not restart. I have replaced ignition control module, and then the crank and cam sensors. Replaced PCM with rebuilt and it was worse (defective?) and put the old one back in. Mechanic can't find any codes to determine what is causing it to stall, except possibly PCM is bad.
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So I have a 95 Legacy sedan, FWD. It's been a kind of problematic car, and the engine was replaced about 5 years ago (I assume with an old unit, but I'm not sure though because though I was in the family I wasn't driving it then). But, it's held up and has continued to be at least roadworthy. But recently, it's developed an issue where the engine will just randomly die while I'm on the road. All/most of the dash indicator lights come on, but if I shift it into neutral and turn the key, it'll come right back up. Occasionally it'll die again almost immediately, but usually it'll be fine for at least a while. And anecdotally, It seems to happen more frequently at lower revs such as idling at a red light (though will occasionally happen while I'm moving), and when the engine is cold - generally once I've driven around for a while, it's not a problem anymore.
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I just bought a 1995 Geo Tracker 5spd RWD 8valve 4 banger. Test drove beautifully (probably 10-15 mins driving). On the way home after purchasing it, however, it began having some issues, the most prominent being a fluctuation in rpm's when pressure is applied to the gas pedal. For instance, with the clutch pedal in, and the car between gears, when I push on the gas pedal, the rpm's will spike (guessing above 2000 rpm) and then drop (probably under 1000 rpm). It will only do this when gas is applied and when the vehicle is warmed up (10+ mins of driving). It will also do this in first gear when letting off on the throttle. I have been told a various array of parts that could be the problem, such as the thermo gauge, the IAC, tps........the list goes on and on. I was wondering if there were any way to pin point this to a certain part.
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95 ford ranger clutch pedal very hard when hot. Will not engage clutch. Ok after setting for 1 hour.
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My 1995 Audi 90 Sport needs to have the acceleration pedal pushed very far, about half way, before the car begins to to move, also when the pedal is put all the way to the floor the vehicle only goes to around 70mph. And finally I am having trouble finding a shop book for the vehicle.
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I have a 95 Accord EX, 4 cylinder with ABS. The brake pedal goes to the floor about once a month, all times of year (I'm in Minnesota). I had the brakes bled last summer, but that didn't work. The ABS light has been on for probably 10 years. When I talked to my mechanic he said the ABS system, even though it's not working, could be a cause of the problem because fluid is still traveling through that system. He said most likely a master cylinder, but no guarantees. He said it could also be one of the brake lines. About 120k miles on it. What are the odds that it's the master cylinder?
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After a recent front brake caliper replacement, the brakes work great except that when moderate pressure is continually applied to the brake pedal, the pedal goes all the way to the floor. While driving down the road, when the brake pedal is depressed, the brakes engage right where you expect them to, and the van stops just fine, even if the stop is extreme. There is no air in the brake lines. The front calipers have been replaced twice, the back brake cylinders replaced, the master cylinder replaced, the RABS valve replaced, all by a certified shop trying to address this issue.
I spoke with the service manager at a local Ford dealer in Seattle and he was aware of the problem and said that there is no solution. He said the brakes will work fine. He couldn't explain to me however, why this happens. If the van is not running, the brake pedal holds firm, so I assume the problem has something to do with either the ABS system or the power assist, but I can't say for sure. I can live with this since the van stops great. What is mechanically going on that allows the brake pedal to go to the floor even though the brakes are fully engaged after the pedal is depressed say a third to a half way down to the floor.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla with a strange gas pedal problem. Randomly while driving the gas pedal will stop working. If I depress the gas pedal all the way when this issue happens it's as if I'm doing nothing. The car just goes to ideal. When I let off the pedal and reapply pressure it's like nothing ever happened. The car has 123k miles and an automatic transmission.
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1995 Ford F350 4x4, 7.3 Liter Diesel, A/T, A/C
The brake pedal gradually sinks to the floor while the truck is running while stepping/holding down the brake pedal, then the red brake light comes on in the instrument cluster. When the trucks engine is not running I could pump the pedal to clear the vacuum booster and hold the brake pedal, it stays steady.
So far I have replaced the vacuum pump and brake booster. I also readjusted the rear brakes. The truck stops fine, but the sinking brake pedal just doesn't sound safe.
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When I am stopped (at a red light, for example), the car wants to lurch when in 1st gear, even though I have the clutch pedal fully depressed. I know this is not a problem with the clutch master cylinder leaking by where you lose pressure on the pedal. Car has 245,000 miles and still has original clutch. Car/transmission work fine so long as I put it in neutral when I stop. Doesn't seem to do this w/reverse. Clutch also passes the "stall test" where you let it out in 4th gear with the hand brake on. What's going on here?
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I have a 1995 F150 with the 4.9L and it has 73000 miles on it. One morning recently (it was about 35 degrees outside) I went to start my truck to let it warm up. When I let off of the clutch it stayed on the floor. I shut it off and drove my car to work instead. I asked around at work and one guy mentioned that it was probably my clutch master cylinder...so that day we replaced it, and bled it until it felt like knew. Since then, we have had to bleed it three more times, because the pedal keeps losing its pressure making it harder to shift. I have inspected around the clutch line and the bellhousing for signs of needing to replace my slave cylinder, but everything looks fine.
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I'm having an issue with my brakes. It was very intermittent, but seems to be happening a little more often lately. 99% of the time they work fine.
I'll try to describe. (vaguely) It will sometimes feel like the ABS is engaging, get a very hard pedal and some pulsing feeling. Sometimes just the pulsing without the hard pedal. It will happen at random times. Today it did it in the driveway going 5 MPH. No reason the ABS should think of kicking in.
I feel confident to rule out anything downstream at the wheels. I am leaning towards the master cylinder, but maybe that's wishful thinking. Afraid it also could be something sticking in the ABS which I assume is $$$.
Brake fluid is 18 months old with maybe 20k on it.
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I have a 1995 Ford Ranger 4 cyl w/ hydraulic clutch, about 95k miles, and an intermittent problem. Normally, my clutch works fine, but a few times a year, normally during the summer, and normally only after driving for a half hour or more, it starts to act up. First, the pedal starts to feel a little spongy. Then, I'll depress the clutch, and when I release it, the peddle comes up, but the clutch does not engage; a few seconds later, the clutch engages fully instantaneously, which usually stalls the engine if I am stopped.
Then, when I try to reengage the clutch so that I can restart the engine, the clutch is very stiff, and I have to pump it a few times, at which time it will depress easily, and then I am usually back to the original problem where the peddle comes up but the clutch does not engage. When I finally make it home and the truck sits for awhile, the clutch then works fine again. I think it is the orig clutch. I have talked to several mechanics about this problem (including the Ford garage!), and they are mystified. One mechanic thinks that it is a problem with the master and slave cylinder combo, and can replace them.
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