I have a VE Calais which has not been driven for 2 months now apart from a dead battery the fuel flap wont open (you just push them and it opens when car is unlocked) have opened it slightly and squiterd wd 40 still wont open.
View 1 RepliesI dyno'd my car a couple of weeks ago and we found that the torque curve was a trough instead of a bump compared to stock - down about 10. HP was down maybe 5 (I don't have the printout in front of me). Magically, at 4100 rpm, it crossed over the stock curve and then was + 10-15 HP above stock, as you would expect from tune, intake, and exhaust. So it seemed that the power port vacuum valve was not activating. We did not have time to diagnose, so I went home and T-d in a vacuum gauge under the actuator.
From the info. I have been able to find, the flap in the manifold closes at 900 so that just the long runner torque pipes are open to the valves. And then it opens to the tuned closed port at 4100 rpm. On a cold start, there is a brief period when vacuum appears on the gauge, then it goes away and does not come back regardless of the engine revs. So, given the low torque curve below 4100, I am wondering if for some reason the internal flap is stuck in the open position.
What else I should be looking at? For instance, at idle, the flap should be open. Does this mean that the little white plastic lever is pulled down, or pushed up? If the valve is active, there should be vacuum under the actuator, right? Any way to tell if the solenoid is getting a signal from the ECU to activate it?
I would like to know what code is responsible for the exhaust flap. Seems like it is permanently open. The solenoid in the left rear wheel well works; but valve is fully open during idle and driving.
As much as I love my car sounding like a beast, my house and my passengers are losing sleep and experiencing hearing-loss.
We tried looking for any leads, but came back empty handed from the dealership. I've also reached out to the tuning company, and confirmed that the software itself does not affect the valve controls.
It seems mine does open every time you press the button. You can hear some kind of motor noise but it not as loud has the noise it does make when it does open. Its intermittent .
Do you get at it from the truck? What is the Part number for a 1998 Passat?
I am a new driver, just realized I left my fuel cap the last time I filled up. I drove for 30 min, it was cold -8, is that dangerous, is it bad for the car ? should i take it to be checked in a garage ?
View 4 RepliesPulled codes awhile ago...got a 96. Says "Fuel Pump Circuit Open"-Battery to ECA (1988 On). What is an ECA maybe the Pump Relay? And does this thing have a fuse for the fuel pump in the panel. Fuel Pumps not getting any juice.
View 1 RepliesSo I swapped an R motor into my 20th anniversary GTi. It idles fine as soon as I rev it and the idle comes back down it starts breaking up and I get a code for exhaust flap no communication. Of course, there is no communication since I don't have one. Is there a way to code this out or to trick the ECU to make it think its there? As soon as i clear the code the car runs fine, even if I just turn the car off and back on, it runs fine.
View 24 RepliesReplacing the cover over the second row flap things?
My 2nd row bench seats spend most of their life in the down position since the dog views everything behind the front seats as his domain. The flaps (and back of row 2) are looking a little ruff and I would like to replace, but haven't seen anything online.
Where to look?
My friend has a 2001 passat and the release button for his gas flap(door) doesn't work. He looked through the trunk to see if there is an emergency cable or a possibility to get it open some other way, but no luck. How he could open it if the button doesn't work??
View 1 RepliesI just recently had a noise issue fixed in my 2004 V6 which I thought sounded somewhat like the valve problem you described. The noise was predominantly a low RPMs (1500-1800) when under load (ie uphill, not in park).
It turned out to be a flap in the intake plenum which apparently can become loose on the rod it's attached to and cause a vibration. The parts they used were a ROD and a REPAIR KIT.
I got the known p2015 code about a month ago and the CEL is on. Here is my situation though...I went and had my car tuned for an APR stage 1+ tune with stock hardware, everything was fine. I then upgraded to a catless 3 inch downpipe (ebay on that links up to the stock downpipe) and a short ram intake and decided to go to the 2+ to delete the engine code for not having a cat.
While I was there, the guy tuning my car said on top of the code for not having a cat, there was a code for my intake manifold saying that one of the motors for a flap wasn't working correctly. I left there expecting to see a code but it never came back on. After4-5 months, I had to pass emissions. Obviously you cant pass with the 2+(found that out the hard way) so I had to have it returned to a regular stage 1 with the stock downpipe. Still no sign of a code for the intake manifold.
I passed emissions and then put my downpipe back on, however, I decided to buy the 200 cell cat from 42DD to weld into my downpipe to save me from having to constantly get my car tuned just to pass emissions. After welding in the cat, I still had a CEL. I went to advance auto and it said I had a code p2015 Intake Manifold Runner Sen Sw Ckit Rng/Perf B1.
I went and got my car tuned to the stage 2 for the hi flow cat and the light is still on. My question is, do I need to replace the whole intake manifold or is there a possibility that I could replace just a sensor? I have a 2012. If just replacing the intake manifold will solve this issue, I'll probably just buy [URL] .... and replace it myself (assumable that's what I need ).
I have a 2003 toyota solara se v6 I got the engine light on the other day and I noticed the gas cap was not good so I bought a new gas cap from the deal and put it on then my engine light went off. But now after 3,3 days of putting the new gas gap it's back on again what I noticed now is I'm missing the fuel filler neck flap (little metal round thing ) it's where you put the gas nozel to fill the tank and also it's showing the code PO446.
View 4 RepliesNow that I have VCDS, I see a problem I never knew I had ... An error on the Air Con. I am not aware of any issue, it appears to do what I ask it. I cleared the error and it appears to appear again on a scan.
On reading the self study guide this looks like it might be an obstructed flap for the recirculation. I will have a close look next weekend.
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 3D0-907-040.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 3D0 907 040 J
Component and/or Version: Climatronic D1 2031
Software Coding: 0000001
Work Shop Code: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 254B0F7DE8FA196
1 Fault Found:
01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)
014 - Defective
I have vw phaeton 4.2 v8 2003. nice car but have some problem's. First problem on engine when i check with VAG i see this messege
Address 01: Engine Labels:
Control Module Part Number:
Component and/or Version:
Software Coding:
Work Shop Code:
VCID: 55A167DFACF48DB6975
3 Faults Found:
18393 - Coolant Control Module 2 (J671)
P1985 - 002 - Malfunction
18308 - Coolant Fan Control 2
P1900 - 004 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
Readiness: N/A
Need change second cooler or what???
Second problems is more bigger , my car not worming interior.. only warms when I push gas pedal and keeps on 3000 Throttle or more... when i check on vag i get message
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels:
Control Module Part Number:
Component and/or Version:
Software Coding:
Work Shop Code:
VCID: 55A167DFBFF48DB6975-5000
4 Faults Found:
00018 - Motor for Cold-Air Flap (V197)
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation
00020 - Motor for Blocking Flap; Defrost and Body Vents; Right (V199)
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation
00026 - Motor for Distribution Flap; Right (V205)
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation
00024 - Motor for Cold-Air Flap; Center Console Rear Right (V203)
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation
When I try delete , that impossible delete. What to do ? maybe need change interior car radiators??
I have a 2013 VW Golf 7 and since this winter it is the second time I can't get the fuel filler cap door to open at the gas station.
First time I blame it on the freeze, yesterday on 8 degrees was not the case so there is a problem.
Does the lock system of the fuel door is different in G7 than in previous models?
How can I reach from inside the trunk to manual release the lock and check the motor is working?
As it worked until now and suddenly makes problem, could be a wire problem or actually the motor/actuator getting rusty or something?
The spring inside the fuel door is intact but my fuel door wont open. Ive been using the emergency release open from inside from the rear.
Does this actuator require a fuse ? how do i know if the fuel door actuator is bad?
This morning the Fuel Door can't open, after I tried 7-8 times it opened. So I drove the the dealer, but after I arrive there it can open with each push. The car did that fuel door TSB last month.
View 16 RepliesWhen I push the fuel door button down, the fuel door will not open. I always have to use the emergency release in the drunk. The trunk release button works just fine?
Do you think I should replace the fuel door actuator in the trunk or is there a wiring problem at the door that I should try and replace?
I spoke to service writers at two local dealers, and they said this had never come up yet for them, so they were not sure. The one actually asked if I pulled the release lever, then asked someone, who informed him there was no such lever on the Tiguan. Wow. So, he suggests I remove the paneling in the trunk area and assures me there is a release lever/cable/button there. Rest assured, I do not believe such a thing exists after pulling the panelling off and having a look. The second service fellow said mayyyyyybe there is an actuator cable in there somewhere, but I did not se such a thing and...the fuel door is NOT CABLE ACTUATED! SO, why would there be a cable?
View 7 RepliesMy lid is "stuck" open. It looks like it is missing a part. Looking for a pic of the latch assembly or diagram if they get a chance?
View 5 RepliesAfter about 10 starts, the light finally went away.
Last weekend, I went to fill up at a full service gas station and the idiot attendant just left the cap open. What pisses me off the most is that I gave him tip, too. Now the 'Check Engine Light' is on and it won't go away. The salesman asked me how much gas I had left to which I replied, "one bar above the halfway mark". He then asked me to check the fuel cap and that was when I realized it wasn't even screwed on. It was just plopped over the hole. But even after I closed the cap, the light won't go away. I've since turn off the car, turned it back on... filled up the tank all the way to full (I was thinking that gasoline might push the air out)... turned the car off and back on again... drive 22 miles... and the light is still on.