Triumph :: 1971 - Gallon Of Gas In The Engine
Aug 4, 2013
I have a 1971 Triumph TR6. After sitting through the winter the car ran very rough and eventually wouldn't start. My mechanic found almost a gallon of gas in the engine. The initial repair was replacing the Fuel pump with an electronic. This removed any direct connection of the fuel line to the engine block. Carburetors were also rebuilt as part of a full tuneup. After driving for 20 to 30 miles and having a car sit for a week the gas was back in the engine. My mechanic is stumped. He thinks I am purposely pouring gas into my engine. How gas can make it into the engine on a TR6 with a modern fuel pump and rebuilt carburetors?
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A cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
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I got a 71 f-250 ranger n it's a beast with a few problems. The most resent is emissions. I have owned it for a year and guy bought it from knows about timing n carbs, but now days most mechanics hate dealing with carbs from what I've found. I'm in az and my emissions came out as a fail, but from what I've read it may be fixable with the right knowledge if any ones willing to share. Here we're my result
Loaded reading. Load standard. Idle read. Idle standard.
Hc. 131. 450. 609. 450
Co. 5.56. 3.75. .11. 5 .0
So it failed idle hc and loaded carbon. So I'm pretty sure my trucks running rich and I know I can adjust its air and fuel, just not tremendously experienced.
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1971 Cougar XR7 ... On behalf of my Dad, who has always worked on this car from day one and kept the beautiful car running like new until recently... It has a 351 Cleveland motor - 4 barrel It starts up and runs down the road only to stop without warning. The motor turns over again and starts up but it repeats the stopping and starting. He has done the usual: replaced the fuel filter, adjusted the automatic choke - in the garage he has it running at 1000 RPM's and idles it down to 650 RPM's and it dies.
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I have a 1971 F250 automatic with original stock 360 engine (100k miles). It currently has an Autolite 2100 2bbl carb.
The Autolite is leaking gas out somewhere where I can't see the leak. It takes a lot of cranking for it to start after sitting 10 minutes and my wife won't drive it for fear of being stranded. My attempt at a rebuild must have failed... Also have issues with anti-stall dashpot spring coming off while driving. When the spring and plunger come off I have to hold the gas on a little to keep from stalling while stopped at a light. A couple other parts looked like they needed repair during the rebuilt, but the kit didn't have any replacement (vacuum diaphragm torn). Also, after replacing plugs, plug wires, replacing points with Pertronix Ignitor 2, a new rotor, and distributor cap, it still doesn't hold a steady idle. In fact it is hard to get it down to the spec idle for an automatic without fear of stalling.
To make a long story short, what is a low maintenance 2bbl (new, not rebuilt) replacement carb. The truck needs to be dependably started by my wife for garage sale runs and home depot trips. I could switch to a 4 bbl intake, but would rather wait for another 50k miles and switch the engine over to a rebuild 390 with nicer intake and carb.
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I have a 71 F250 4x4 with the 435 and recently had the tranny out to replace the output shaft i believe its called, and other than the shaft it seemed all was well. Shortly thereafter it became impossible to shift it into 4th gear without it grinding. I am able to minimize it by double clutching and keeping the rpms right, but the grind is unavoidable and its only 4th gear, all others shift fine. I was hoping there was a way to adjust the clutch but if not am i going to have to pull it back out and look at the fork and gears? But like i said, we just had it out and the fork and gears seemed fine.
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I own a 1971 Ford F-250 Custom with the 4 Speed Synchronized Warner T-18 transmission. When I put in the clutch, once it engages, it makes a very loud whirring noise. I'm not concerned about the noise as much as possible issues with the transmission itself.
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I have a unique problem with my newly acquired 71 F250. The left brake does illuminate when the brake is pressed but when the right turn signal if activated the left brake light does come on. The left flasher light also does not work. All other rear ligh function are normal. I am assuming I have a short or a wiring issue just wanted to know if there was any common item that might be know about this topic. The bulbs are all new. The reverse lights do not work either but pretty for sure its unrelated.
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We picked up our 2009 prius about a month ago from a local dealer. At the time it was getting about 52 miles per gallon. Since then, we have driven about 1000 miles and now we are getting only about 41 miles per gallon. Are we doing something wrong that made the MPG drop over 10 miles per gallon.
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Yesterday when I tried to fill up my 2007 Town and Country I found I cannot put more than about 1/2 gallon at a time before the pump shuts off. I have the problem at multiple stations/pumps so I know it is a problem in my car.
I have heard this could be a clogged charcoal canister so that the air cannot get out of the tank as the gas is going in. Where this unit is located on the Town and Country? Could there be another issue? A week ago when I filled the tank I had no problem, but yesterday it took a very long time to fill up from empty.
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This is different from the MPG display that was on my 2010 Gen 3. Is there a way to set the display to show one decimal place.
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My 2000 corolla has consistently gotten 35 MPG until last month, suddenly I've dropped to 18-20 miles per gallon, a friend suggested fuel filter fail, but i can't discern if it has an external one...
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I just bought a 08 Screw with the 5.4 3 valve, 4x4 with the 373 gears, and 25,000 miles on it. I love the truck, but what is the best that you have gotten for mileage on your trucks with the 373 gears? Does it do better at 75 mph or 55? I haven't checked mine yet so I am wondering what to expect...
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Recently, my 2006 has been showing a decline in MPGs. I purchased a K&N filter several months ago hoping that it would work in getting better MPGs. I also watch my tire's air pressure, but the MPGs still fall off. I used to get around 43mpg in town and 45 to 47 on the highway. Now, I'm lucky to get 39mpg no matter where I'm driving.
I've been thinking of changing the spark plugs since I'm sort of grasping at straws. Also, someone told me that the older the battery pack (NHW20) gets the less MPGs I can expect. Maybe true maybe not! My Prius has a little over 60,000 miles on it and it shouldn't be loosing MPGs.
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I bought a 2012 Prius new and averaged just under 53 miles per gallon for the first 15,000 miles regularly. I have a long commute so my driving mix of city/highway is pretty consistent. When starting the car one morning there was a fairly loud series of clicking sounds from the engine compartment, which then stopped. From that point forward the mileage has dropped to just under 50 mpg. Same driving habits. I am bringing the car if for it's 20,000 mile check up shortly. Any ideas if something happened to the battery I should ask about? It is still under warranty.
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My 2007 (with Nav package and aftermarket Sirius radio) recently started losing channel settings on the Sirius (not on the FM radio!), the dash clock resets, and, recently, the miles-per-gallon and miles driven since last fill-up reset to zero. These events are sporadic, but have started occurring more often. The dealer seems unable to figure out the problem.
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I just reinstalled my turbo and started the truck up to test it. After 15 seconds or so it shut down so I hopped out to take a look. I had about a gallon of oil coming down around the starter. All I did was reinstall the turbo (I had previously installed without the rear pipe hooked up). I can't see where the leak is coming from but this thing is not even remotely drive-able. My best guess is the pedestal somewhere?
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Recently my fuel gauge malfunctioned. It wouldn't register fuel in tank. When I filled tank a couple times gauge worked but as soon as a gallon was used it would drop off. Now gauge not working and wrench appears code flash 246c and check engine light on says reduced engine power and says drive to clean exhausts emissions. No miles to empty registered as it reads --- miles to empty.. Also... What's this about egr replacement and should I contact Ford for this as I had no notification.? I have 2011 f250 SD 6.7
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ok, i just became the proud owner of a 71 dodge dart.. fuel pump was not working, and am converting to an electric (airtex e8016s) and am told i need a relay. airtex doesn't seem to have one, is there another i can use? fairly new at this sort of thing, but have fixed a 72 honda motorbike, so not afraid of engines or whatnot.
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My 2002 has had a slow coolant leak for quite a while (maybe a quart a month). Now, however, I am losing over a gallon a week, but with NO visible leak!
The oil is clear, with no signs of antifreeze in it, so I am guessing the head gaskets are ok. But I am perplexed as to where my coolant is going!
After reading more threads in the forum, (which I should have done more thoroughly before posting,) it seems that I may indeed have a head gasket leak. From what I've learned, that would cause me to lose coolant through the exhaust while driving, and would explain why I don't see a visible leak anywhere. Am I on the right track? Before I replace the head gaskets, are there any other causes that may have a simpler fix??
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i have a 03 gti vr6. 24v 6 speed. it started losing coolant the other day. but the thing is the radiator all the hoses and the water pump(s) are all dry. its fine when its cold, holds coolant just fine. but when it warms up its only fine at idle, so im guessing its some sort of pressure related leak. the car goes through half a gallon every mile or so. only the inner fender on the left side is soaked and the suspension components on that side as well.
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