Trans Sport :: Steering Wheel At 90 Degrees To The Left
Apr 22, 2012
My son sent me a text stating "mom is driving with the steering wheel at 90 degrees to the left!". I had to get this repaired ASAP. I thought maybe a tie rod went bad and maybe went further. Steering had been off slightly to left prior.
Firestone said that when they went to check alignment, they found that the strut tower was gone. I knew it had to be on the right side. The passenger strut tower rusted through at the mid rear, and broke the spot welds, and was not attached at most of its circumference. Fortunately, the body shop that repaired our van from a prior damage.(hit at stoplight). I replaced the struts about a year or two ago with quick struts. Did not even think of checking for this rusting issue.
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Just got my golf R 4 door/Nav. When driving straight on the highway (regardless of road crown)... my wheel was about 4 degrees off to the left. No problem alignment wise, but the nice flat bottom wheel is cockeyed.
Car has only 330 miles on it. Took it back to the dealership, they put it on the alignment rack - actually had me sit in the car ensuring the wheel was straight as the tech adjusted the Tie Rods below.
This made it better - I instantly noticed it was better when I took a short test ride with the tech, just as they were closing. However, on the highway home I noticed its still about 2 degrees to the left. Really frustrating as now I have to take it back to the dealer a second time.
The tech actually showed me the alignment printout which was close to-but not totally perfect. Said the only way to make it perfect is to adjust the sub-frame? Really? on a new vehicle.
I do have plans to mod the car's suspension with H&R Coilovers - but will not touch anything until I get this wheel thing square and I am 100% satisfied.
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Had mine for 5K service and had them check alignment. Steering felt sluggish and wheel was a few degrees off center from the day it rolled off the lot.
Both front wheels had toe-in over 1/2". Makes you wonder if this is due to spring settling.
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I have a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with a 2.3 4 cylinder 5 spd. The problem I'm having is when I accelerate the car pulls to the right hard the steering wheel turns about 5 degrees. When I left off the throttle the steering wheel comes back to center and I hear a pop and feel coming from the passenger front. It also does this while I'm at speed I can hit a bump in the road and get the same problem. I just gave the car an alignment and the issue got worse now my whole car feels like it shifts to the right and left.....
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I've got 2003f150 4x4 and had a fender bender front end out of line so had it lined up but steering wheel 180 degrees out..well watched a video about just adjusting drag link..so i crawled under ready to adjust but cant find an adjustment collar. Mine the only one without it?
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I've been noticing this one single "metallic" click sound a few months ago, it happens whenever I turn the steering wheel a little over 90 degrees.
The steering intermediate shaft recall has been done summer of last year. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with this sound I'm hearing.
This is a video I made
If you watch this video, you need to turn it up really loud to hear the faint click sound every time I turn the steering wheel past 90 degrees.
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If I press the gas a little hard in drive, my tires squeal but if I'm in reverse I can feel a slipping in the trans. If I try to back a trailer up an inclined driveway, it won't go, the trans slips. I have no crud in the pan. I've replaced the reverse boost valve. I installed a Trans-Go kit which is suppose to eliminate the reverse slip but it hasn't worked. Everything else works just fine and my fluid is red. I have engine braking in 2nd and 1st. The van backs up fine, it just does this in reverse under load.
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I was driving my car to the store and was streaming music using Pandora through the 'apps' in the car. The music suddenly cut out and came back a minute later but the screen said "Pandora could not be started" even though it was playing music through Pandora. The screen was locked (I could not select anything or change the program I was listening to).
As that was all going on, I came up to a stop light and waited at the light completely stopped. As I sat there, my steering wheel suddenly started twitching to the left by itself every second or so for four times and then stopped. After that, my Pandora started working correctly again and everything was normal including no more steering wheel twitch.
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Recently I started driving on eco mode to have the smoothest ride/acceleration. However, yesterday I wanted to get my dose of sport mode and WOT, so I switched to sport mode and stepped on the gas and during a small curve I felt the car steering is stiffer than usual, so I thought it could be due to speed. After that I reduced my speed and tried switching between sport and eco back to back and the sport mode steering actually is stiffer and more responsive! . I was surprised because my car is not the F sport, it is the normal is350 with tech package, and Lexus didn't mention this when describing the sport mode.
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I'm noticing my 2013 F-Sport seems to veer to the side on bumpy roads. It's totally straight on flat roads, but I notice it when I'm about to change into the left lane.
It's got 31k miles and has Bridgestone tires.
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Having, apparently not uncommon problem of a misaligned steering wheel -- i.e., when the wheel is horizontal, the car drives left? Two dealers have told me that there is no alignment problem (and have given me the BS "crown of the road" explanation). Perhaps this is not an alignment issue, but there's no question that the wheel must be slightly turned to get the car to drive straight, which is at best a major annoyance.
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The problem makes the car unsafe to drive. The quickest way to describe it is a hard pull to the left after a very linear steering feel. My perception is almost as something is holding on and then just fails and lets go and the car quite abruptly shoots left in a very unsafe manner. Here are the things I have done to remedy the situation, I replaced the struts with factory replacements 15,000 miles ago. At the same time i replaced the left and right axles, drove the car with the problem then last weekend, I replaced the upper tie rod arms, and lower tie rod ends, the sway bar bushings, and the control arms on both sides. I literally feel as though it is a darn near new front end.
Just yesterday I had 4 new Goodyear eagle tires and an alignment done and the problem became more pronounced and worst. I really like this car and want it to be a joy to drive as I know from others these little hatchbacks are a real joy on winding mountain roads.
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My Haynes manual indicates that the ELC exhausts air when the key is off. Is it intended to exhaust all air from the shocks every time I stop? It doesn't make sense to lower the vehicle every time I stop for fuel etc. With over 200k miles on this can it's amazing that the compressor still works.
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I am working on my daughter's TS, it has been overheating. Water pump is fine and the thermostat is working fine also. I did notice that the temp gauge on the dash isn't. I have noticed that the fan isn't coming on either. I don't have a book on this car or a owners manual. So I am unsure of which fuses to check. I did try turning on the AC to MAX to see if that would start a fan, and that didn't work either.
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I replaced my '94 TS intake plenum and upper and lower intake gaskets last year, and as part of the procedure I replaced the badly-degraded rubber gaskets that go at both ends of the manifold (at both ends of the "V", one under the throttle body, one under the PCV valve or so).
A little more than one month ago I realized the oil puddle underneath the car contained -besides power steering fluid from a known leak- motor oil. When I investigated the origin of the leak, I discovered the <> rubber gaskets have disintegrated AGAIN.
I don't see how this gaskets could be installed incorrectly, so I have to conclude the gaskets that came with the kit I used (Felpro?) did not withstand the oil as they should. Either way, I need to replace those <> pieces of rubber again
Now: since I don't want to be doing the same thing every 5 k miles, any good brand for these gaskets? Is there a material (neoprene?) that would last longer in contact with the oil?
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My 95 TS 3.8L is misfiring on #4cyl ONLY when reverse is applied. When car is in reverse with parking brake applied, consistently misfires on #4. In drive with brake applied and engine load no miss. Neutral no miss.
Car drive ability is great in drive no misfires. 100% misfires on #4 only when in reverse. Is there any vacuum change or assist utilized with this trans? Possibly vacuum leak? I do not have a vacuum gauge. I changed to a different plug wire and same problem. New plugs installed. Have not swapped coils yet.
I am not familiar with this trans, other than the vacuum servo for upshifting I replaced when it was sucking up trans fluid like my old Powerglide in the OLD days.
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These super-hot days our TS had started to develop a very strange problem:
- when you first start the engine the A/C works normally and cold air blows from the front vents on A/C or MAX as usual
- if we shut-down the engine and try to engage A/C or MAX again the cold air would only come-out through the top (windshield) and low vents - no more front ventilation
- all solenoids appear to be working (moving)
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Just recently the CEL started acting...first, would come ON then after some time would shut off....but now it is ON and stable. I was almost sure it had to do with EGR....checked codes and indeed, 55 , large EGR port failure and, accordingly, 56, QUAD driver faulty voltage...obviously because of large EGR port solenoid control. I have not verified the EGR coils yet....will come back later as I'm going out for 2 days.... This is a rather new EGR valve...6 or 7 year old.....and in fact, no more than 25000 miles...probably less...
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Our 95 TS 3.8 runs hot. I dislike the 195 Thermostat, but winter is coming. Temps can soar to 230 on gauge, with no air.(Now I remember why I had a 180degree thermostat).
I recently replaced a rebuilt delco starter that was about a year old.(faulty solenoid). I cannot recall if the Slow crank problem was there prior. When 230 degrees, intermittently I get a slow crank with dimming of dashboard lights, but bright headlights.
1. I know that the temps are supposed to swing a lot with this vehicle, but 75 degree days, 230 degrees when in heavy traffic is pushing it.(gauge). Is this normal for 195 thermostat?
2. Possible bad windings on new rebuilt starter? Armature drawing excessive amps when hot? Battery cables look okay, but original.
3. Considering a NEW starter and a heat reflector wrap for starter. New battery cables-thicker cable if possible(used welding cable for my old 421S.D.
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Ever since the first week of owning my 13 Elantra I've noticed my steering wheel isn't centered when driving straight not just by a mm or 2 it's pointing slightly to the left, I would guarantee most of you would hate this as much as I do! I went in to an alignment shop and they said during transport over rough sea's they're strapped down tight and the violent sea can cause them to shift which causes my issue, thought that was a bit of BS but surprisingly enough the dealer said the same!? I'm at 3000kms at the moment after 3months and was instructed to put at least 20,000kms before bothering with it! This is the only new car I've ever bought it only had 8kms when I took it for its test drive and never noticed this and there were about 3kms put on since the test and pick up and that was them filling the tank and getting it ready!?
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just had 2 turbos replaced on v10. 4 wheel alignment checked twice. car pulls to left. Steering wheel is also not straight. have to put slight pressure down on right side of steering wheel to stop veering to left.
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