Trans Sport :: Car Won't Be Able To Maintain RPMs On Warm Start And Produce White Smoke
Jan 23, 2015
'92 3.8l Trans Sport owner, 165 miles on it (if I can trust the previous owner), have this vehicle for 4 years now(I owned 2.3l version before - not to recommend).
At cold start, it starts without any problem, maintains the RPMs as it should and doesn't produce any white smoke. But when I start it when it's warm(or hot, doesn't matter), the car in a lot of cases won't be able to maintain the RPMs and die. If I apply some throttle for first 2 seconds, it will be ok and it will continue to run normally without any pedal assistance. From time to time this causes a very rough start and it will miss on 1 cylinder until it warms up a bit(15 second - 3 minutes). Regardless the way of starting(assisted or normal) it will start to produce a white smoke, when I wait at stop light for 30 seconds or more and idle becomes very rough and slowly starts to miss on one cylinder.
When I continue to drive, it's ok after a few seconds, until I idle again. My mechanic told me, it's the head gasket, but as nobody in the whole world does not complain about head gasket failure on 3.8l GM engine, I'm a bit sceptical and wouldn't want to invest money on something the car does not need. People mention the intake manifold failure is common for this engine, could that be the case? Car slowly loses the coolant(1l in 2 weeks), no leaks, water pump has just been replaced, smoke was present before replacement. Ignition is OK, new spark plugs, 1 year old cables, 2 years old ICM, first coils, sparks on all cylinders.
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So I was on my way to work on a semi-chilly morning here in Colorado. Every day as usual, a little upset in the morning, a little white smoke and after a good warm up i'm on my way. About 10 minutes up the road while accelerating on the freeway, I hit I guess the perfect RPM range (2000-2500) when all of a sudden my CEL came on. Right as the CEL showed up, the engine introduce to me a new skip and lost a bit of power. About 5 more minutes up the road, the CEL went off and the skip went away, unless in idle. I made it to work a few minutes later and the skip in idle was apparent for sure. I turned her off and just couldn't get her to turn back on. The injectors are just not firing, no smoke at all, they don't even sound like they're trying to fire almost like no signal to the whole engine.
I replaced the CPS, the IPR and unplugged the ICP to test if she'd go. I opened the fuel bowl and watched it fill up. I checked the HPOP level, it was almost full, maybe a quarter (between half) inch from the top. No codes.
She ran great until this, outside of needing glow plugs. When I was trying to get her started it was 60ish outside so I don't think glow plugs is the issue. It sounds like the Injectors are not firing at all, whatsoever.
I will note that I had a few fuses blow out of no where that I replaced, a trail light, OBD fuse and one other in the under-dash box. I had her dyno'd a few weeks back and the tech said she made great power but sounded like she had a little issue recovering from the high RPMs but I figured my injectors are tired.
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Fine one day, no start the next. Been skimming over the 7.3 no start thread, so w got some ammo for him to check. White smoke while cranking, rpms move while cranking. Nothing to read codes or other sensors YET. Tried the unplug ICP and it "wanted" to fire. So, I have him my spare IPR to try. I'm sure he checked the fuses but will confirm via text...
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I know, sounds like blown head gasket. However oil looks fine, no coolant leaking and coolant looks fine. It also does not overheat (that I can see, it dies first). This all started a few weeks ago. I changed spark plugs, oil and undercoated the car with primer. I did get some paint on the radiator. I also put techron in the fuel tank and changed fuel filter. The car ran fine before, now here is what is happening step for step.
Car starts fine, idle is a bit rough (it was before too) but nothing drastic. I rev car at 2500 RPM until it is warm. The thermostat stays in the middle yet I begin to see a good amount of white smoke coming from the exhaust. If I take foot off the accelerator the car will shut off at this point. If the car is not warm yet, it won't shut off. When it does shut off, I cannot restart it even with gas pedal down. It just cranks and cranks. When I let it cool down it starts up fine and the same thing occurs. I cannot tell if the radiator fans are turning on as the car dies before they turn on (it's cool outside). The thermostat never indicates overheating.
The entire radiator is smoking white (not from cap) but I assume that is from my paint overspray burning off. Could this be getting sucked in and stalling the car out when the car warms up enough to start burning off the paint? Could I have painted something inappropriate? What could this be? I know a decent amount about cars.
If I let the car warm up just by idling it will run until it gets warm then it stalls and again, won't start until it cools. It seems to keep running if I keep RPMS up but right when I take foot off accelerator when warm it shuts off.
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I have a Tymar intake, magnaflow exhaust, a DP Tuner and I have Rosewood Diesel injectors.
I had a bad oil leak recently and it seemed to be coming from the turbo area so I changed all the o rings back there and deleted the EBPV system (I cut out the butterfly and welded the holes shut, cut the part of the pedestal that held the actuator because it looked like it was leaking and welded the oil holes in the pedestal that fed it. I left the actual EBPV sender in the pedestal and kept it connected to the harness)
After all that was done I checked the oil and it was low but still on the dipstick so I drove it to the local parts place to get some more oil, about 2 miles, because I wanted to check for leaks. It was not happy, ICP low code came up it was sputtering and jerking when stopped at a light. I got to the store and parked it, it took about 3 litres of oil and seemed to run pretty good after that.
But on the way home I noticed a bunch of white smoke, I figured maybe an injector was stuck. I started it a little later and no white smoke in the driveway so I thought maybe it had gotten lubed enough and had sorted itself out. That was a few days ago.
Today I started it and let it idle in the driveway for about 15 mins and no white smoke, I wanted to get it up to speed a little so I took it to do an errand that was about 10 miles away, lots of lights and a bit of highway. It would run fine while going at speed but as I would slow down for a light the ICP would go down to around 600psi and the white smoke would start, as sitting idling a huge cloud of white smoke would form (yes, I was that guy), once I could take off and get it running a bit harder it would go away again.
I am assuming that I have a stuck injector (or cracked), I have no oil in my degas bottle and it doesn't look like it is fuller than before. Seems like I may have used more fuel than I should have, but pretty hard to tell just from the fuel gauge.
I have tried a buzz test and they all sound the same, tried a Compression Contribution test, no codes from that.
How can I locate a stuck injector? If that's what it is?
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The truck is a 98 4.6l with 188,000 miles on it and yesterday i was driving up over a pretty steep grade hill, i was going about 55 and turning maybe 2800 rpms at the top a big cloud of white smoke came out (either tailpipe or just out of motor on hot pipes)and also some in the cab. It didn't run any different though so I kept driving about 3 mile and stopped where i could take a look and and saw fresh oil around the starter area running down where the motor meets the tranny. I checked the oil and it was at a good level and also not milky. I checked level again today and it seems well and there is no drops of oil on the ground i ran it home about ten mi and it runs good. What could have happened?
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My k03 blew up after 100k miles in a cloud of smoke and oil... Where is a good place to buy a k03 turbo for less than $900 or so?
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Last week, the engine stopped twice in the 2 minutes after initial start....but then managed to take me back home. Was away for 1 week (not with TS) then when back , tried to start ...no joy.
This duplicates a similar event 8 years ago...solved with the ignition module being replaced.
[URL] .....
NO codes.
There are 2 options: crank sensor or ignition module. Will go for some tests and will report.
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2800rot./min when driving. engine showed signs that he drowns, I joined, he went shortly after that began to fall speed and the engine stopped. Then I could not start. Come to be fuel, received a little dirt somewhere and no longer feeds? What can I do?
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I have a 1996 Pontiac Trans Sport 3.4L (without Passkey anti-theft) which on occasion won't start after being parked. The fault only happens when the vehicle has been sitting, it does not die while being driven (so far). The engine cranks normally but does not fire. The peculiar and significant thing about the fault is that the fuel pump relay (driven directly by the PCM), chatters at about a 10 Hz rate. Instead of receiving a steady 12VDC to keep it energized, it is receiving a pulse stream from the PCM.
The first few times this occurred, I heard the relay "chattering " under the hood , and was able to start the van by unplugging the relay and shorting the connector terminals for the contacts together with a wire jumper ( these terminals connect "hot at all times" 12VDC from the PCM fuse (orange wire) through the relay contacts to the fuel pump +ve). The electric pump would run and I could start the engine easily. By the time I arrived at my destination, the fuel pump relay 'drive' would be normal and I could plug the relay back in and continue normal operation.
The last few times this problem occurred, the van would not fire -- no spark as long as the relay drive was pulsing. When it would finally go back to normal operation of the relay, the engine would start OK.
Last Spring in cold weather I had the van towed 2 blocks to a Pontiac dealer with this problem. The problem resolved before they inspected it; however after the Technician's inspection the Service Advisor said there was no fuel pressure at the test port and that the pump must be deffective (shorted), overloading the relay causing it to chatter. That diagnosis made no sense to me. They wanted to replace the fuel pump as the solution ($600). I got past the Service Advisor and asked the mechanic to show me the fuel pressure -- the car started on the hoist when I tried it, and fuel pressure was normal (>30psi). I left with just the relay changed, as they thought the original would have burned -up contacts from excessive current to the pump. (I cut it open later and found its' contacts to be perfect). While at the dealership I asked the S.A. if he knew of any TSBs, or other incidences of this problem; he said he had not heard of this problem before.
I had the same problem one week later, but not again all summer until this Fall's cold and wet weather. I had to have the vehicle towed home and it still wouldn't start the next day. As soon as I accessed the PCM behind the glove box and jiggled it the relay chattering stopped and car could start. However, later the same day, still in the driveway, the fault was back and no amount of jiggling or other manipulations had any effect. Later still I went out to test for spark, and the fault was gone. (Cold, wet weather all day).
Vibration seems to have little effect. I have checked the PCM connectors' security and pulled, twisted and wiggled the wires coming from it, as mentioned above, to no effect. I suspect the fault is inside the PCM and is thermally induced by cold weather. The next time it happens I will try a warm hair dryer on the aluminum housing of the PCM. I wonder if there is a fix for this (repair a cracked solder joint, etc.) other than replacing the PCM. I work in electronics, and will open the PCM up and inspect it before forking out for a new one.
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If I press the gas a little hard in drive, my tires squeal but if I'm in reverse I can feel a slipping in the trans. If I try to back a trailer up an inclined driveway, it won't go, the trans slips. I have no crud in the pan. I've replaced the reverse boost valve. I installed a Trans-Go kit which is suppose to eliminate the reverse slip but it hasn't worked. Everything else works just fine and my fluid is red. I have engine braking in 2nd and 1st. The van backs up fine, it just does this in reverse under load.
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We have a '92 Pontiac Trans Sport with a 3.1L V6 TBI engine. Last Sunday evening it refused to start like someone left the transmission in Drive and the Park/Neutral switch was preventing it to start. There's the buzz sound from the fuel pump when you put the key on then nothing when you turn it to start the engine.
I checked the Park/Neutral swith by connecting an ALDL cable to the OBD port and it indicates correctly when I move the lever to Drive or Parking/Neutral. The only error code stored is "Fuel Pump Relay" but the Fuel Pump appear to be working?!
Battery is good, fuel pump fuse intact and the Park/Neutral switch appear to be working. How we can tackle this problem?
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Truck: 1999 Ford Truck F 350 4WD Super Duty V8-7.3L DSL Turbo VIN F
Problem: Especially when it is cold outside . . . The truck takes forever to start and while doing so a ton of white/grey smoke comes out of the exhaust.
My starting schema: Turn the key on have the gas pedal pushed to the floor until the "wait to start" light goes out. Then, I turn the key off and back on while still pressing the gas pedal all the way down. When the "wait to start" light goes out again I remove my foot from the pedal and try to start it. I never leave it cranking for more than 5-7 seconds. If, after trying this process several times I will not push the pedal in at all. Also, sometimes I will leave the pedal pushed in while I am cranking it over.
The truck used to start after a couple of tries but lately it won't start at all, even after 20 tries. Sometimes it will spin up for a second as if the engine gets going but then just doesn't continue running. When it is warm out it will usually start after a few tries but doesn't seem normal to me. After I first bought the truck(used) it would start up within half a second after turning the key.This all started after I had to fix an o-ring that was damaged on the top/back of the motor that was dumping all my oil out of the top/back of the motor.
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What may have wrong with my trans on my truck... this is what its doing, I am able to put in drive and drive it for so long then its like the truck is in neutral and doesn't gain or maintain speed. but i can turn the truck off and put it in park and restart the truck and it will go again?? that is how i got it home....
the fluid is burnt now but wasn't that bad until the trans started doing this. I have pulled off the pan and inspected the filter and it does have metal debris in it, pulling the valve body off tonight before work (work 3rd shift) to inspect that, i think it has something to do with the solenoids or valve body because it actually moves but then quits until i restart the truck. Also does the transfer case use fluid from the transmission? or are the fluids separated between the 2.
Truck has 4.0L SOHC with a 5R55E in it 4WD...
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99 1500 2wd 5.7 burb
Out of the blue I started old red up yesterday (after charging the dead battery) and got a huge cloud of white smoke. Smells of coolant so Im thinking oh great a head gasket. The thing is, I can see no trace of coolant in oil or vice versa. I started it up with radiator cap off, while cranking I got a little fluid spit out the neck but once it started it was not gushing or bubbling at all.
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We have a beloved 1995 Jeep Gr Cherokee 4L that was our first new car! We have babied it for many years. It now has 173k on it. We took to local Jeep dealer to get all RECALL items taken care of and to have it checked out completely. It was pinging on acceleration and hvac wasn't working. They kept it 5 months and finished all recall stuff and replaced the ENGINE TEMP SENSOR. They also recommended a new trans and a new AC. Since my niece wants it; and she loves it like we do; we took it to an honest transmission shop.
They said trans was fine just needed oil pan gasket, rear main seal and an elec engine diag because trans and engine were not speaking to each other. Now our JEEP is home; sits in driveway all week. When we start the car on Saturday we still have WHITE SMOKE then after driving awhile it goes away. Does not leak oil; does not need coolant; has NEVER over heated. Engine sounds great and it runs great. Had it tested for head gasket a couple of years ago and they said pressure was fine. We have never had to put coolant in it. The dealer and other Mechanics said nothing.
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I have a 2000 chevy metro, whenever i start it up after it's been sitting for a little while a white smoke comes out of the back of it. zWhy this is doing it and how much approx.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Solara SLE 6-cylinder 2-door coupe. 98,000 miles.
I have lots of white smoke at start up. Big time oil consumption. My wife drives car 14 mile round trip each day. Each night, I go out late and start car to burn off oil. There is no smoke in the morning when I do this.
People here have suggested the problem is valve stem seals. Not something I should try to fix myself. I did change the pcv valve.
I took car to mechanic. Told him it might be valve stems. He said he'd have to do the heads. Sounded like it would be expensive.
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I have a volkswagen TDi 1.9 automatic which is using coolant more on short runs than on motorway and produces white smoke/steam on start up even when not cold which disappears after a few seconds. Other symptom is doesn't accelerate though goes OK when once up to speed. Have has cylinder head checked and new gasket so that is not the culprit and also new heat exchanger. There is also a gurgling noise which seems to be coming from the dash board though I am not sure if these things are related. I have read that the automatic has a water cooled EGR, could this be it??
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It's a 2001 camry Solara .. When I start my car for the first time every day, I have white smoke come out my exhaust usually for about a minute or two but it runs fine after that. But it's like a cloud of white smoke. I checked my oil and it's fine. What it could be?
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95 Toyota Celica wouldn't start. Jumped off the battery and it starts but kills after only a few minutes. White smoke pours from the engine area - smoke not steam. I'm selling this car and have been starting and running it a couple times a week. This is the first time it's done this.
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