Trans Sport :: 98 - Sliding Door On Passengers Side Won't Open
Dec 28, 2012
I have a 98 i just took it up on a trade. The sliding door on passengers side its automatic it wont open i hear something clicking but its not going. Other problem is the windshield wipers only work on high...
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Have a '93 Aerostar that had something roll up against inside sliding side door and must have nudged it out of alignment. Broke off outside door handle, took off inside panel and tried prying, pushing, kicking and pulling rods, handle, linkage and anything I could get at. Any way to get it open, so I can re-align the catch mechanism??? I have tried everything I could to "muscle it" open....
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Is there an easy way to do this...???
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The rear door of my 1998 Sport will not open. It is unlocked and I can press the handle but the door will not open. I have been able to partially pull back the inside panel (not easy because the bottom of the panel is attached to the closed door) and it I can see the lock/unlock works okay and pressing the outside level works the rod to the latch connecting the door to the car body. But I cannot see where to pull the latch open and cannot locate any diagrams on the internet. I have sprayed some lubricant inside,, no effect. My thought is that if I can get the door open and remove the inside panel the repair may not be to complicated.
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We have had this problem for about two years now. We finally took the car to the dealership and they, without being able to duplicate it, recommended to change the sliding door roller for the price tag of $375. We did and it did not fix the problem. We took it back few times and the popping noise did not take place while there and left the dealership without a solution. We finally took it back today armed with a video on my iPhone displaying the problem (popping audio included). We left it with them and lo and behold they said that they were now able to duplicate the problem and they are able to fix it by replacing not two but three latches.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Sienna and the passenger sliding door will not slide on its own. You have to tug on the door to get it to engage. The repair shop said the door needs a new actuator. How hard is replacing the actuator on sliding passenger door?? My brother thinks he might be able to do it???
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My passenger side power sliding door on my 2003 Olds Silhouette (147,000 miles) Occasionally will quit working. We can open it and close it manually and sometimes it will start working again, other times it won't work for several days and then all of a sudden it works again.
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A couple of weeks ago our 2007 Odyssey started having door issues - driver's side sliding door would get about 85% closed (approx 6 inches from closed) then beep and reverse back open. Wife took it to the dealership and they said the rollers were dead and it would be $400 to repair them. Suggested we wait till it got bad. A week later on the cape, it got bad -- doors were getting really stuck, even in manual.
I replaced the roller assy on the door (the rollers were GONE!) and it now operates manually just fine now. I'm left with the following issues:- Door still won't close during automatic operation. Gets 80% closed then beeps and reverses closed.- Door doesn't open automatically during operation from the key FOB or the driver's control panel on the console. (I hear an actuator running when I press the buttons, just no obvious release). The door auto-opens fine from all other modes (inside lever, outside handle).
I've tried multiple "door reset" routines to no avail -- not sure if I have the correct "routine" for my '07 EX, or if something else is in play.
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If I press the gas a little hard in drive, my tires squeal but if I'm in reverse I can feel a slipping in the trans. If I try to back a trailer up an inclined driveway, it won't go, the trans slips. I have no crud in the pan. I've replaced the reverse boost valve. I installed a Trans-Go kit which is suppose to eliminate the reverse slip but it hasn't worked. Everything else works just fine and my fluid is red. I have engine braking in 2nd and 1st. The van backs up fine, it just does this in reverse under load.
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About 3 days ago there was a complete power loss to the Driver Side Window and Sliding Door. Checked both fuse panels and everything looked good. Is there a relay that controls the entire driver side? There's no whining or noise at all when you push the buttons. Just complete loss of power. If you press the button for the passenger window on the driver door, everything works. So its not that the driver side door as a whole has problems.
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I have a 02 Prius and the driver's side brakes are wearing twice as fast as the passengers side. Some times if I have to stop quickly the brakes pads continue to apply pressure on the rotor when the brakes are released. After a little drive they seem to go back to normal. Is this a sign of a bad caliper or master cyl.? I know before I purchased the car the front brakes and rotors were done, but they used after market parts
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I got my all new Lexus but driver door has been rattle since 400 mile. It's like plastic vibrating and creaking.... I think it's the door panel is making the noise especially on rough road. When it rattles, I can place my hands on and share the vibration, then the noise would be somehow suppressed.
The problem is that I took it to dealer and they, as usual, cannot reproduce the problem! I took down the door panel myself, tightened all screws...and the noise...got worse....
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I'm unable to open my trunk door with the remote, using the key, or with the switch on the drivers side door. I am also pretty sure it is not frozen shut. Will I need to switch out the complete latch assembly or just need to wd-40 something? This is for a 2000 Passat 1.8T Sedan.
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So I've been noticing that it appears that I have more poke on the rear passenger side than driver side. Or rather more flush on the rear passenger side.
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I just got a H&R Sport Cup Kit installed along with new strut mounts and bearings on my 2001 GTi. My front right side strut is making a popping sound whenever I accelerate or brake slightly hard and sometimes when hitting a bump in the road. What's causing the sound? Could it be I have a bad strut? Also the left side is fine and doesn't make noise at all..
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My driverside door will not open from either side. I opened it to get out, reached over to grab my phone, the door shut on me and now it will not open. it just barely closed, so i dont know why I cant budge it. its an old s10.
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I just bought a 2012 Camry SE V6 about 2 weeks ago. This week, I have noticed a steady clicking or ticking sound coming from the passengers side front wheel (or so it sounds to be from there). Not feeling any vibrations or anything like that and I have checked the tire(s) for rocks or nails to no avail. The sound is not present at speeds lower than 50mph (that I can hear anyways) and seems to get slightly louder in volume as speed increases from 50mph (though there is no increase seemingly in frequency of the sound) and if the passengers side window is up it cannot be heard at all. What was the ultimate solution? I want to be able to drive my Camry with pride but it's hard when all I can hear is the ticking noise with my windows down.
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My Haynes manual indicates that the ELC exhausts air when the key is off. Is it intended to exhaust all air from the shocks every time I stop? It doesn't make sense to lower the vehicle every time I stop for fuel etc. With over 200k miles on this can it's amazing that the compressor still works.
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I am working on my daughter's TS, it has been overheating. Water pump is fine and the thermostat is working fine also. I did notice that the temp gauge on the dash isn't. I have noticed that the fan isn't coming on either. I don't have a book on this car or a owners manual. So I am unsure of which fuses to check. I did try turning on the AC to MAX to see if that would start a fan, and that didn't work either.
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My 2007 Camry has developed a loud popping noise when sliding the sunroof open. It's as though the sunroof is getting caught under the vehicle roof before it moves to slide open. The motor labors pushing the sunroof past vehicle roof. I see no obvious obstruction. The sunroof makes no noise when going to the tilt position. I have tried the initialize process, but the problem persists.
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I replaced my '94 TS intake plenum and upper and lower intake gaskets last year, and as part of the procedure I replaced the badly-degraded rubber gaskets that go at both ends of the manifold (at both ends of the "V", one under the throttle body, one under the PCV valve or so).
A little more than one month ago I realized the oil puddle underneath the car contained -besides power steering fluid from a known leak- motor oil. When I investigated the origin of the leak, I discovered the <> rubber gaskets have disintegrated AGAIN.
I don't see how this gaskets could be installed incorrectly, so I have to conclude the gaskets that came with the kit I used (Felpro?) did not withstand the oil as they should. Either way, I need to replace those <> pieces of rubber again
Now: since I don't want to be doing the same thing every 5 k miles, any good brand for these gaskets? Is there a material (neoprene?) that would last longer in contact with the oil?
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