Trans Sport :: 3.8 GT - Low Oil Pressure On Dash Gauge Stays In Red Zone At Idle
Apr 28, 2011
I just noticed the oil pressure gauge on this Pontiac TS GT stays in the red zone at idle and climbs a little out of it at 2000 rpm and higher (never over the first unit). There's no other warning light or error in the dashboard - just the scary oil pressure gauge.
We brought this car home for repairs after a 600 km trip (370 miles) without any issues in mountain roads or hot weather. Engine temperature was well below the first quarter mark, acceleration was great and there was no strange sounds whatsoever...
When first started cold engine has no lifter or tapping noise. What would be the most obvious sign of oil starvation/low pressure on this engine?
Is there any way to confirm it beside the dash gauge? With this 3.8 engine what would be the most probable cause for this:
1. defective oil pressure sensor
2. failed oil pump
3. worn crankshaft bearings
4. worn camshaft bearings or other cause
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I have a 2001 Chevy S10 4.3L. The CHECK GAUGES light stays on, and the oil pressure gauge stays at 0. The oil is full, and the engine runs and sounds fine. I drove it about 5 miles with no change. Up until now, the gauge has worked normally. Could it be the sending unit?
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Just had a new timing belt put in with water pump. Drove it home and the temp gauge flew up to red zone. Took it back they said air pocket in system. Bled the system. Drove home and same thing happened. Nothing changed. Temp gauge elevates past normal and into red zone when I idle or drive slow without air conditioning on. The weird thing if the air conditioning is on the gauge stays at normal longer. What is the issue? Is it a bad water pump or thermostat? Or something else.
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1993 TransSport 3.8: Where the heck is the oil pressure sending unit, and what is the best way to access it? What size of OPSU socket does it take; 1", 1 & 1/16", or 1 & 3/16". Do I need the 3/8" or 1/2" drive; extra deep or other wise? The van has a gauge on the dash.
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I have a 98 trans sport and the temp gauge is reading low. Only on the first line when driving then when i pulled into the garage it went up one line and heat got warmer. Felt both upper and lower hoses and i can press them both in Fluids are full no leaks anywhere. oil is good tranny fluid is good. I just got it on a trade it runs and drives great no problems at all.
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I have a 97 Pontiac Transport and I was traveling down the road and suddenly i lost oil pressure the light came on and it started clattering so I checked the oil level and it was fine so i had it towed home. I changed the oil using a higher grade oil and lucas oil treatment and started it ...I still have the problem what do i do...
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I just bought a 01 Intrigue that the dash lights don't work and the gas gauge stays at fuel when you start the car. It goes to empty when you shut it off.
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If I press the gas a little hard in drive, my tires squeal but if I'm in reverse I can feel a slipping in the trans. If I try to back a trailer up an inclined driveway, it won't go, the trans slips. I have no crud in the pan. I've replaced the reverse boost valve. I installed a Trans-Go kit which is suppose to eliminate the reverse slip but it hasn't worked. Everything else works just fine and my fluid is red. I have engine braking in 2nd and 1st. The van backs up fine, it just does this in reverse under load.
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I JUST got my brand new 2011 gti this wednesday, which I am obsessed with. When I was driving around earlier yesterday however, the temperature gauge started to go up and into the warning zone. a message on the dashboard then sed "check engine coolant see manual".
So i did, and according to the manual everything should be running perfectly fine. So i pulled over till the engine cooled down to normal, then after about a mile it happened again, and it kept overheating every mile. I got the car towed by vw to a dealership nearby, but they're closed on sundays so i have to wait till tomorrow.
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My factory gauge on the dash reads Zero. I have put on a mechanical external gauge and it reads normal.
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I have a 2005 Elantra GLS with a couple thousand miles over 100K. There is what appears to be an overheating issue with my car. When I'm driving it in city driving usually less than 45 MPH, the heater blows cold air. However, on the highway (greater than 50 MPH) it blows hot air and the temp needle stays in the normal range (just below the halfway point between hot and cold and more towards the cold). However, when I slow down and come to city speeds, the temp needle starts to rise and the heater blows cold air.
The needle went to the red zone this morning but as soon as it got to the red zone, it slowly came back down to the normal point (within 2-3 seconds). And @ the same time, the heater started blowing warm/hot air like it would be functioning normally. When the needle got the red zone, my car didn't stop or I didn't see smoke coming from the hood or anything like. It was almost like something (maybe thermostat) tripped and allowed the engine to cool.
After doing some research on this, the potential issues point to thermostat, coolant level, radiator crack. I haven't checked how the coolant level is doing but I will check that this weekend.
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I was driving and noticed that my temperature gauge went close to the warning zone so I blasted the heat and it went back down. When the car cooled I popped the hood and noticed that the coolant reservoir was pretty close to full but I couldn't see any coolant in the radiator. I filled the radiator with water for now but it looks like it gone again. I cannot spot any actual cracks or leaks on the hoses but I did spot a puddle of coolant in the groves on top of the transmission. The closest hose I can spot next to the puddle is the lower radiator hose but I really do not know too much about cars. I also noticed a hissing sound today coming from the radiator cap, which I am going to replace. Where the leak could be which is causing the puddle on top of the tranny?
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I have a 98 Buick Century, with about 250k miles on it. Recently when I first start the car and drive a few miles the temperature gauge keeps rising until it is in the red zone and a warning light comes on. When I pull of to the side of the road after a bit it begins to slowly drop and I can begin to drive again. The gauge will then normally stay a bit above halfway for the remainder of the trip, the gauge has sometimes done a bit of jumping around between 3/4 and half sometimes though. The only work that I have had done on it recently is to have some work done on the ac system.
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On my 05 Super Duty, the gauge light for the fuel and oil pressure are out. The needles are still illuminated red but the backlight for the gauges are dark. Are these replaceable bulbs or are they a circuit board diode or something that can't be easily replaced?
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2005 Hyundai Tiburon Keeps Overheating
I live in Washington State and have a 2005 Hyundai Tiburon with less than 110,000 miles. I have had it for 5 years, and have not had any issues with the car until recently (last 2-3 months). My car overheated on me back in May while out running work related errands. I was able to leave it parked downtown while my husband took a break from his job to come pick me up. Since then, it has continued to overheat every time I drive it.
The temperature gauge climbs into, or dangerously close to, the “red Zone” within the first 10 minutes of driving. The first couple of times the car overheated, if I was using the air conditioner, it would start blowing hot air instead of cold air and the air would stay hot. Now when I drive the car with the air conditioner on and it over heats, it continues to blow cold air (if that matters at all).
My super handy husband (a certified motorcycle mechanic) has done the following in an attempt to fix the car:
•Checked coolant levels
•Topped off coolant
•Bled coolant system and added yet more coolant
•Replaced the thermostat
•Replaced the radiator cap
•Water pump was replaced November 2012 (not even a year old yet)
The radiator cap was the most recent fix. It was replaced on a Wednesday evening after testing it and finding that the existing one was not maintaining the proper PSI. The car drove great around town for two whole days without any issues (Thursday & Friday). Saturday, I decided to take it on a longer drive out of town to see if my good luck would hold…it didn’t. I drove a total of 30 miles round trip and my car started overheating after about 20. I limped back into town and barely made it back to our apartment.
My car continues to overheat!! What is going on?! So confused and frustrated I’m hesitant about taking it to a mechanic who, my husband is convinced, will just charge me to check all of the things he has already fixed.
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2002 7.3 powerstroke, no info about service or work done, looks to have a new hpop, know for sure that there was a new lpop installed, claims no gouging in front cover, died going down road oil pressure gauge on dash dropped and was taken to a shop and did not get complete diagnosis, where should i start? Shop drained oil to take sample and no metal shavings or flakes were present according to them...
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Having an intermittent problem on my 2002 Chrysler Sebring LX (about 132,000 miles). Often I can drive around and everything is okay. However, it seems like every 11 days or so, the temperature gauge starts to climb above the halfway mark and toward the danger zone. Only once has it gotten all the way up to the red danger zone and illuminated the warning light, and that was the very first time. It was fortunate that this happened the exact moment I reached home and parked in my driveway.
When the temperature gauge starts to climb above the halfway mark, I've tried to turn on the heater to cool it down, but this doesn't work. The heater just blows cold air. So far I have been taking the following steps:
1) Stop driving and park the car for 10 minutes or more.
2) Fill the coolant tank under the hood with coolant. I'm putting in about half a gallon each time.
3) Continue driving.
After this process, the heater is again blowing warm air and the temperature gauge is staying at a safe level. It seems to persist for about 11 - 14 days then the cycle starts all over.
It happened last night following a drive of about 5 miles home from the gym. Since I had no more driving to do that day, I just parked it overnight to see if this was a fluke and if it would be necessary to add more coolant.
This morning I drove the same 5 miles. Temperature gauge stayed pretty low for about half the trip, but then rapidly shot up. I got to the gym before it reached the danger zone (it was probably about 3/4 of the way up). I parked for a little over an hour while I went inside to exercise. Then I again added half a gallon of coolant and drove home without problems.
The last time I had overheating issues, the coolant rapidly spilled out of the bottom and the overheating was not preventable. I got the radiator replaced. This was in October 2013. I've also tried some of that stop leak fluid. It didn't work, but I'm not so sure I used it correctly. I didn't flush the tank and I think I might have poured it in on a normal driving day (coolant pretty full).
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My 1991 Nissan 240SX (only 85K miles!) has an intermittent overheating problem that began last November. Needle usually right in middle, but occasionally would quickly rise to danger zone. In Nov., I got new radiator and pump, as well as all new spark plugs. Was OK for about 3 months, then started overheating occasionally. In shop a day and a half while they tried to find the cause. Gave me a new thermostat. Then test showed there was a leak in head gasket. Instead of expensive repairs, I put 8-oz bottle of K-Seal in cooling system. Reviews all over the web gave me confidence it would seal all leaks. But within 5 minutes, it overheated. Tried again later, same result.
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I have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee L6 4.0 Liter automatic with 223,000 miles.
The oil pressure usually runs around 1/8-1/4 when driving around town and now I am getting temperature spikes. I had the coolant and water pump replaced last fall when I was having similar idling issues then. My coolant isn't a perfect green color--it is a little bit grey, but it is full. I cleaned the entire throttle body last January, cleaned the IAC today, and redid the NSS this week (not that this probably matters, just being thorough in my explanation).
It seems to happen worst on hot days (of course) when idling in traffic for a few minutes and makes the air conditioned air run warmer than it should.
Is this a busted radiator? The mechanic said I did not have a leak when I had him check last week.
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My Haynes manual indicates that the ELC exhausts air when the key is off. Is it intended to exhaust all air from the shocks every time I stop? It doesn't make sense to lower the vehicle every time I stop for fuel etc. With over 200k miles on this can it's amazing that the compressor still works.
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I am working on my daughter's TS, it has been overheating. Water pump is fine and the thermostat is working fine also. I did notice that the temp gauge on the dash isn't. I have noticed that the fan isn't coming on either. I don't have a book on this car or a owners manual. So I am unsure of which fuses to check. I did try turning on the AC to MAX to see if that would start a fan, and that didn't work either.
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