I got a 1998 Trans Sport Montana that has a dead speedometer. The computer knows how fast the car is going because I've seen the live data. I've also changed out the cluster and the problem is still there. I have a schematic of the wire that goes from the ecm to the instrument cluster, but it goes through an accessory connector block. Where this connector block is?
View 2 RepliesI have a 98 trans sport and the temp gauge is reading low. Only on the first line when driving then when i pulled into the garage it went up one line and heat got warmer. Felt both upper and lower hoses and i can press them both in Fluids are full no leaks anywhere. oil is good tranny fluid is good. I just got it on a trade it runs and drives great no problems at all.
View 6 RepliesRecently I had an overheating problem with 98 Montana Transport. I had the fan motors replaced because they weren't turning. That didn't solve the problem tho, it overheated again, it had been slowly losing coolant. Mechanic had the heads repaired (were warped) and replaced head gasket, manifold gasket, valve cover gasket and drained replaced fluids and had plug wires and sparkplugs replaced also.
When he brought it back the radio wasn't working. I know that's not a mechanical problem, but why it's not working. I asked him and he said he's a mechanic and doesn't know about radios. He did say that it might have something to do with the anti theft system, but I don't have a clue how to reset. Since the van is older, where could I find out about the codes for resetting? He checked the fuses too.
I just noticed a connector hanging off at the front of the van, around the radiator area. It's a blue connector with a yellow, green/black wire (see attached pics). Everything on the van seems to work fine, no alarms or dash message indicating there's a problem. I looked everywhere for a place to connect it, but couldn't find anywhere.
View 5 RepliesRecently the ABS light came on (truck does not have ABS), also speedometer quit working and trans was not shifting right. After a few minutes the problem went away.
View 4 RepliesWhat is going on with my dad's car. This car is a 2000 Ford Taurus with about 160,000 miles. In the morning, when he starts the car and drives away, sometimes the speedometer will not work and the automatic transmission will not shift out of first gear. After a few miles, the transmission will suddenly upshift and the speedometer will jump from 0 to the current speed. The door locks will also lock at the same time (they normally lock upon reaching a set speed). However, the car can be "forced" to shift, start the speedometer, and lock the doors by accelerating to 5000 RPM. The problem appears to have something to do with the vehicle speed sensor, but I don't know what exactly is wrong with that system. The car also knows that something is up as the Check Engine light is on.
What might be wrong with the VSS that causes this problem?
Why can it be forced to shift at 5000 RPMs?
If I press the gas a little hard in drive, my tires squeal but if I'm in reverse I can feel a slipping in the trans. If I try to back a trailer up an inclined driveway, it won't go, the trans slips. I have no crud in the pan. I've replaced the reverse boost valve. I installed a Trans-Go kit which is suppose to eliminate the reverse slip but it hasn't worked. Everything else works just fine and my fluid is red. I have engine braking in 2nd and 1st. The van backs up fine, it just does this in reverse under load.
View 2 Replies'98 F150. the speedometer isn't working, all other gauges are. Where do I start ?
View 13 Repliesso heres whats happening. My 98 ranger speedometer has not been working since I owned it (I am the second owner who got it from a grandpa) and I've replaced the vss sensor two times, got a new connector and gave that a try and still nothing. Yes I've looked for cracks in the wire or any exposed copper, I've looked through many forums and cant figure it out. At first before replacing the vss, my abs and check engine light weren't lit up until i put a new vss sensor on that i got from o'reillys, so then i got another one thinking it was just a bad sensor and still no luck. another thing is when its cold in the morning and i get in my pickup to go to work it will start working once i go over 30 and fluctuate between that and 20 but if i don't accelerate it will not bounce all over the place.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1998 windstar with a 3.8. I took my daughter Christmas shopping and noticed the car did not want to shift out of first gear. I shifted it manually to second and then DRIVE and that worked until I stopped at a light. I took off in DRIVE and the car did shift to second and third on its own but it shifted late and hard. Also, the speedometer quit working and the overdive light on the shifter just turned on by itself and then went out. By the time we got home, the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light was on. All these symptoms happened in a relatively short amount of time (5 miles). I suspect something electrical but am not sure. Is there a speed sensor fuse on these cars?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1998 e-250, 5.4 4EOD/4R100. The speedometer quit working and with that came hard shifts. This happened previously (only with a blinking O/D light that time) and I replaced the VSS and then the shift solenoid and filter in the transmission pan. That fixed the issue for about 3 days. There were no codes in the computer.
For a couple days the speedometer would not work until about 15-20 mph, then it would work and shift normally. Now there is no speedo action and the shifts are hard at high RPMs.
In the days leading up to this problem I heard a clicking in the dash, seemingly behind the cluster. Kind of like a turn signal but a bit fainter. Before I go and order a cluster...is there anything else I should be checking for? I have no warning lights, and as I said earlier the O/D light is not blinking. We're converting the van to a camper for our upcoming honeymoon and tracing this down is cutting into the buildout.
I have a 98 4door 4x4 auto. Reverse stopped working a year ago. The forward speeds work perfectly. I hate to have to rebuild the entire trans. I've been driving it some, being careful where I park, but getting tired of it. My question is do you have to pull and take the trans all the way apart to fix this?
View 7 RepliesMy Haynes manual indicates that the ELC exhausts air when the key is off. Is it intended to exhaust all air from the shocks every time I stop? It doesn't make sense to lower the vehicle every time I stop for fuel etc. With over 200k miles on this can it's amazing that the compressor still works.
View 9 RepliesI am working on my daughter's TS, it has been overheating. Water pump is fine and the thermostat is working fine also. I did notice that the temp gauge on the dash isn't. I have noticed that the fan isn't coming on either. I don't have a book on this car or a owners manual. So I am unsure of which fuses to check. I did try turning on the AC to MAX to see if that would start a fan, and that didn't work either.
View 13 RepliesI replaced my '94 TS intake plenum and upper and lower intake gaskets last year, and as part of the procedure I replaced the badly-degraded rubber gaskets that go at both ends of the manifold (at both ends of the "V", one under the throttle body, one under the PCV valve or so).
A little more than one month ago I realized the oil puddle underneath the car contained -besides power steering fluid from a known leak- motor oil. When I investigated the origin of the leak, I discovered the <> rubber gaskets have disintegrated AGAIN.
I don't see how this gaskets could be installed incorrectly, so I have to conclude the gaskets that came with the kit I used (Felpro?) did not withstand the oil as they should. Either way, I need to replace those <> pieces of rubber again
Now: since I don't want to be doing the same thing every 5 k miles, any good brand for these gaskets? Is there a material (neoprene?) that would last longer in contact with the oil?
My 95 TS 3.8L is misfiring on #4cyl ONLY when reverse is applied. When car is in reverse with parking brake applied, consistently misfires on #4. In drive with brake applied and engine load no miss. Neutral no miss.
Car drive ability is great in drive no misfires. 100% misfires on #4 only when in reverse. Is there any vacuum change or assist utilized with this trans? Possibly vacuum leak? I do not have a vacuum gauge. I changed to a different plug wire and same problem. New plugs installed. Have not swapped coils yet.
I am not familiar with this trans, other than the vacuum servo for upshifting I replaced when it was sucking up trans fluid like my old Powerglide in the OLD days.
These super-hot days our TS had started to develop a very strange problem:
- when you first start the engine the A/C works normally and cold air blows from the front vents on A/C or MAX as usual
- if we shut-down the engine and try to engage A/C or MAX again the cold air would only come-out through the top (windshield) and low vents - no more front ventilation
- all solenoids appear to be working (moving)
Just recently the CEL started acting...first, would come ON then after some time would shut off....but now it is ON and stable. I was almost sure it had to do with EGR....checked codes and indeed, 55 , large EGR port failure and, accordingly, 56, QUAD driver faulty voltage...obviously because of large EGR port solenoid control. I have not verified the EGR coils yet....will come back later as I'm going out for 2 days.... This is a rather new EGR valve...6 or 7 year old.....and in fact, no more than 25000 miles...probably less...
View 8 RepliesOur 95 TS 3.8 runs hot. I dislike the 195 Thermostat, but winter is coming. Temps can soar to 230 on gauge, with no air.(Now I remember why I had a 180degree thermostat).
I recently replaced a rebuilt delco starter that was about a year old.(faulty solenoid). I cannot recall if the Slow crank problem was there prior. When 230 degrees, intermittently I get a slow crank with dimming of dashboard lights, but bright headlights.
1. I know that the temps are supposed to swing a lot with this vehicle, but 75 degree days, 230 degrees when in heavy traffic is pushing it.(gauge). Is this normal for 195 thermostat?
2. Possible bad windings on new rebuilt starter? Armature drawing excessive amps when hot? Battery cables look okay, but original.
3. Considering a NEW starter and a heat reflector wrap for starter. New battery cables-thicker cable if possible(used welding cable for my old 421S.D.
My 92 transport 3.1L had started quitting on me while driving. After sitting for about 15mins I could get it started and then continue on driving. Now its doing it more and I can't take the chance of going anywhere in it.
Got a CEL so I flashed codes 34, and 45. Where to start troubleshooting with what these codes are saying that I should do?
I've replaced the drain plug, filled up the radiator with proper coolant/antifreeze, turned on the engine then closed the cap to see the needle going fast to near the red mark. I turned off the engine and touched the cap with my finger but it was cold so I did the same with a hose, not hot.
Well, it seems the problem was not all circuit was filled. I did add more after a while running and now it is working normally (knock wood).