Looking for a wiring diagram for a 96 model with 3.4 engine? The horn fuse keeps blowing and I don't know what else is on that circuit to check. The horn works when the fuse is replaced but the fuse blows at some time afterwards.
View 5 RepliesWhen is cold, the engine starts but stops after 2-3 minutes. I can not start until after standing for 2-3 hours, and again stops.When I try to start, signs that would not fill with gasoline.What should I check first, what should be changed?
It was....now engine don't start!
Pontiac Trans Sport 1996,2.3l,16v,Quad4 DOHC
I had an intermittent heater blower problem for a few years. Yesterday it turned into a full time heater blower problem. I unplugged the connector to the fan motor, and ran a power feed and ground to the fan motor terminals. It blows strong! I located the low speed relay under the glove box. I switched it with the adjacent horn relay, like was suggested. No go! What else can it be?
View 7 RepliesI have a 1996 Pontiac Trans Sport 3.4L (without Passkey anti-theft) which on occasion won't start after being parked. The fault only happens when the vehicle has been sitting, it does not die while being driven (so far). The engine cranks normally but does not fire. The peculiar and significant thing about the fault is that the fuel pump relay (driven directly by the PCM), chatters at about a 10 Hz rate. Instead of receiving a steady 12VDC to keep it energized, it is receiving a pulse stream from the PCM.
The first few times this occurred, I heard the relay "chattering " under the hood , and was able to start the van by unplugging the relay and shorting the connector terminals for the contacts together with a wire jumper ( these terminals connect "hot at all times" 12VDC from the PCM fuse (orange wire) through the relay contacts to the fuel pump +ve). The electric pump would run and I could start the engine easily. By the time I arrived at my destination, the fuel pump relay 'drive' would be normal and I could plug the relay back in and continue normal operation.
The last few times this problem occurred, the van would not fire -- no spark as long as the relay drive was pulsing. When it would finally go back to normal operation of the relay, the engine would start OK.
Last Spring in cold weather I had the van towed 2 blocks to a Pontiac dealer with this problem. The problem resolved before they inspected it; however after the Technician's inspection the Service Advisor said there was no fuel pressure at the test port and that the pump must be deffective (shorted), overloading the relay causing it to chatter. That diagnosis made no sense to me. They wanted to replace the fuel pump as the solution ($600). I got past the Service Advisor and asked the mechanic to show me the fuel pressure -- the car started on the hoist when I tried it, and fuel pressure was normal (>30psi). I left with just the relay changed, as they thought the original would have burned -up contacts from excessive current to the pump. (I cut it open later and found its' contacts to be perfect). While at the dealership I asked the S.A. if he knew of any TSBs, or other incidences of this problem; he said he had not heard of this problem before.
I had the same problem one week later, but not again all summer until this Fall's cold and wet weather. I had to have the vehicle towed home and it still wouldn't start the next day. As soon as I accessed the PCM behind the glove box and jiggled it the relay chattering stopped and car could start. However, later the same day, still in the driveway, the fault was back and no amount of jiggling or other manipulations had any effect. Later still I went out to test for spark, and the fault was gone. (Cold, wet weather all day).
Vibration seems to have little effect. I have checked the PCM connectors' security and pulled, twisted and wiggled the wires coming from it, as mentioned above, to no effect. I suspect the fault is inside the PCM and is thermally induced by cold weather. The next time it happens I will try a warm hair dryer on the aluminum housing of the PCM. I wonder if there is a fix for this (repair a cracked solder joint, etc.) other than replacing the PCM. I work in electronics, and will open the PCM up and inspect it before forking out for a new one.
My horn fuse on my 2011 LX 570 keeps blowing after first use of horn. What could be causing it?
View 3 RepliesMy father is having electrical issues and I'm hoping this is the cause. Where this ground cable originates from?
He replaced the battery last week after vehicle would not start. Noticed he blew a radio fuse but nothing else until yesterday. Major issues of all instruments, ac, windows, etc going out. Unable to start vehicle without jump.Had a error code B1676. So today we switched the battery, all is good (for now) except for horn fuse that keeps blowing.
It's a 2007 ford explorer 2wd v6
I have a 1996 geo metro that I have been working on for the last couple days. The problem that I have been running into is the ignition fuse keeps blowing the instant that the key is turned.
This kills the power to the fuel pump as well as the power to the ECM. (killing all the idiot lights). The engine still cranks over and all the accessories still work.
I have tried disconnecting the fuel pump wires as well as the ECM and the ignition module to try and narrow down the problem but the fuse still blows about 2 seconds after I turn the key.
I have a '96 Dodge Stratus that keeps blowing fuse #20, which is for the fuel pump and the ignition. How to isolate the problem? This happens as soon as the key is turned on. The car has 140,000 miles and runs excellent otherwise.
View 3 RepliesMy 1996 Ford Ranger's Fuel Pump- Fuse keeps on blowing... (Fuel pump is new)... We need to find where the short is coming from!
View 2 RepliesThese super-hot days our TS had started to develop a very strange problem:
- when you first start the engine the A/C works normally and cold air blows from the front vents on A/C or MAX as usual
- if we shut-down the engine and try to engage A/C or MAX again the cold air would only come-out through the top (windshield) and low vents - no more front ventilation
- all solenoids appear to be working (moving)
Whenever I manually pull my gear selector into first gear it blows one of the 10a fuses (not sure which number). I lose all gauges and accelerator pedal. It's about the fourth fuse from the right on the bottom row.
View 4 RepliesLast week, the engine stopped twice in the 2 minutes after initial start....but then managed to take me back home. Was away for 1 week (not with TS) then when back , tried to start ...no joy.
This duplicates a similar event 8 years ago...solved with the ignition module being replaced.
[URL] .....
NO codes.
There are 2 options: crank sensor or ignition module. Will go for some tests and will report.
We have a 1992 Pontiac Trans Sport with the Chevy 3.1 V6 TBI engine.
Engine was running poor because of a faulty Coolant Temperature sensor (rusted-out pins). Changed the sensor and cleaned-out rust from the socket and now it runs smooth when cold with decent acceleration.
Problem is that cylinder #6 is not firing when engine is hot at operating temperature. Engine shakes lightly but performance remains good.
Distributor, rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires and Oxygen Sensor were all changed 1 week ago with new ACDelco parts. What to check next?
2800rot./min when driving. engine showed signs that he drowns, I joined, he went shortly after that began to fall speed and the engine stopped. Then I could not start. Come to be fuel, received a little dirt somewhere and no longer feeds? What can I do?
View 3 RepliesIf I press the gas a little hard in drive, my tires squeal but if I'm in reverse I can feel a slipping in the trans. If I try to back a trailer up an inclined driveway, it won't go, the trans slips. I have no crud in the pan. I've replaced the reverse boost valve. I installed a Trans-Go kit which is suppose to eliminate the reverse slip but it hasn't worked. Everything else works just fine and my fluid is red. I have engine braking in 2nd and 1st. The van backs up fine, it just does this in reverse under load.
View 2 RepliesWe have a '92 Pontiac Trans Sport with a 3.1L V6 TBI engine. Last Sunday evening it refused to start like someone left the transmission in Drive and the Park/Neutral switch was preventing it to start. There's the buzz sound from the fuel pump when you put the key on then nothing when you turn it to start the engine.
I checked the Park/Neutral swith by connecting an ALDL cable to the OBD port and it indicates correctly when I move the lever to Drive or Parking/Neutral. The only error code stored is "Fuel Pump Relay" but the Fuel Pump appear to be working?!
Battery is good, fuel pump fuse intact and the Park/Neutral switch appear to be working. How we can tackle this problem?
I have a 2013 Non-F Sport Model with Navigation and was wondering if there was a secret on HOW To TURN OFF the Navigation? Not the whole screen, just the Navigation part. I see how to turn off the screen but I want to just see my Radio/SAT menu on the screen as I do not use Navigation that often. Right now Navigation is always on and takes up 3/4 of the screen!
also... is is safe to drive in any of the 3 modes (eco, normal, sport) ALL the time in all conditions ? As in using Eco for driving all the time (city and highway), or is one better than the other for certain conditions.
My Excursion keeps blowing fuse #45, a/k/a "Ignition switch Run/ Start feed"
Going to have to go in shop. Seems to be a short in the steering column.
Then the dash lights go dim, headlights die, engine sputters and dies. I am guessing alternator most likely.
These two things might be related? Maybe there's not a short in the steering column, I dunno.
My Haynes manual indicates that the ELC exhausts air when the key is off. Is it intended to exhaust all air from the shocks every time I stop? It doesn't make sense to lower the vehicle every time I stop for fuel etc. With over 200k miles on this can it's amazing that the compressor still works.
View 9 RepliesI am working on my daughter's TS, it has been overheating. Water pump is fine and the thermostat is working fine also. I did notice that the temp gauge on the dash isn't. I have noticed that the fan isn't coming on either. I don't have a book on this car or a owners manual. So I am unsure of which fuses to check. I did try turning on the AC to MAX to see if that would start a fan, and that didn't work either.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2002 GTI 1.8T with the AWP engine and tiptronic. There is a fuse in the picture below that blows as soon as the car is started. It is located next to the brake booster on the firewall. It does not blow when the ignition is turned on, just when the engine actually starts. I'm not throwing a check engine light, pulling a scanner code or noticing any of my electronics not working. I took a 20 AMP fuse out and replaced with another 20.....and have since blown 5 of them trying to diagnose the problem.
View 10 Replies