Trans Sport :: 1995 Just Quit Driving Down The Road / Would Not Restart
Apr 11, 2016
My 1995 TS with 3.8 just quit driving down the road, would not restart. had to be towed home.
Fuel pressure just meets specs at 41 PSI engine off ( Gm says 41 to 47), but has been that way for some time. Put Actron scan tool on, got a code 361, EST not toggling. GM has no code 361, but based on past experience, this has usually pointed to a defective ignition module, and I thought that was that. While testing, scan tool kept losing communications and having to be reset.
Finally I unplugged power source of tool, and engine immediately quit and would not restart. Resetting scan tool would allow engine to restart, albeit very rough. Doing a wiggle test of engine wiring harness makes no change.
Crank sensor was replaced, about 12 years ago, so it not the trouble prone OEM; cam sensor about 10 years ago by a garage who was unsuccessful in solving a driveability issue.
Issue here is why would scan tool affect engine operation?
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Our 95 TS 3.8 runs hot. I dislike the 195 Thermostat, but winter is coming. Temps can soar to 230 on gauge, with no air.(Now I remember why I had a 180degree thermostat).
I recently replaced a rebuilt delco starter that was about a year old.(faulty solenoid). I cannot recall if the Slow crank problem was there prior. When 230 degrees, intermittently I get a slow crank with dimming of dashboard lights, but bright headlights.
1. I know that the temps are supposed to swing a lot with this vehicle, but 75 degree days, 230 degrees when in heavy traffic is pushing it.(gauge). Is this normal for 195 thermostat?
2. Possible bad windings on new rebuilt starter? Armature drawing excessive amps when hot? Battery cables look okay, but original.
3. Considering a NEW starter and a heat reflector wrap for starter. New battery cables-thicker cable if possible(used welding cable for my old 421S.D.
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I have a 97 Pontiac Transport and I was traveling down the road and suddenly i lost oil pressure the light came on and it started clattering so I checked the oil level and it was fine so i had it towed home. I changed the oil using a higher grade oil and lucas oil treatment and started it ...I still have the problem what do i do...
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I have a 95 Lumina APV 3.8 and have vibration coming from the puller fan (passenger side front of radiator). Inspection shows fan and motor good, the rubber mounting grommets are hard as nails.
Is there a secret source for these parts?
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Is there an easy way to do this...???
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My 92 transport 3.1L had started quitting on me while driving. After sitting for about 15mins I could get it started and then continue on driving. Now its doing it more and I can't take the chance of going anywhere in it.
Got a CEL so I flashed codes 34, and 45. Where to start troubleshooting with what these codes are saying that I should do?
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2800rot./min when driving. engine showed signs that he drowns, I joined, he went shortly after that began to fall speed and the engine stopped. Then I could not start. Come to be fuel, received a little dirt somewhere and no longer feeds? What can I do?
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Driving down the road, no warning lights on, everything working fine, no stalling or any indication of a problem, car just shuts off. I think hmmm, put it in neutral and try to start, nothing, notta, zip ... engine not even attempting to turn over. Removed the battery took it to store had it checked twice shows to be good 100%.
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I have a 94 E350 with the 5.8 and E4od trans. The main issue I am having is the thing will just go into neutral driving down the road. It only happens for about a second. The engine revs up and I back out of the throttle and it will hook back up. It sometimes does it as it is shifting up through the gears. It also sometimes does a real hard 1-2 shift and sometimes downshifts when there is really no need. I took it to get the codes read today and there was nothing.. It is so frustrating and I baby the thing all the time because I don't want to be hard on the throttle when it loses drive.
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If I press the gas a little hard in drive, my tires squeal but if I'm in reverse I can feel a slipping in the trans. If I try to back a trailer up an inclined driveway, it won't go, the trans slips. I have no crud in the pan. I've replaced the reverse boost valve. I installed a Trans-Go kit which is suppose to eliminate the reverse slip but it hasn't worked. Everything else works just fine and my fluid is red. I have engine braking in 2nd and 1st. The van backs up fine, it just does this in reverse under load.
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I have 1995 Toyota Avalon w/173K miles. It’s in good shape mechanically and cosmetically. My 16 yr old daughter is the primary driver. I have extensive service records and have replaced the springs/struts, o2 sensors, and a few other bits. My question is related to hard shifts and a check engine light. During the summer the trans shifts normally. In the fall & winter, when temps dip below 50 degrees, the trans shifts harshly and the check engine light blinks indicating a trans solenoid is defective. The trans fluid has been flushed twice, most recently in Oct 2008 at the Toyota dealership. My theory is the techs filled the trans with a heavier weight fluid than is necessary and that is triggering the codes.
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My Haynes manual indicates that the ELC exhausts air when the key is off. Is it intended to exhaust all air from the shocks every time I stop? It doesn't make sense to lower the vehicle every time I stop for fuel etc. With over 200k miles on this can it's amazing that the compressor still works.
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I am working on my daughter's TS, it has been overheating. Water pump is fine and the thermostat is working fine also. I did notice that the temp gauge on the dash isn't. I have noticed that the fan isn't coming on either. I don't have a book on this car or a owners manual. So I am unsure of which fuses to check. I did try turning on the AC to MAX to see if that would start a fan, and that didn't work either.
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I replaced my '94 TS intake plenum and upper and lower intake gaskets last year, and as part of the procedure I replaced the badly-degraded rubber gaskets that go at both ends of the manifold (at both ends of the "V", one under the throttle body, one under the PCV valve or so).
A little more than one month ago I realized the oil puddle underneath the car contained -besides power steering fluid from a known leak- motor oil. When I investigated the origin of the leak, I discovered the <> rubber gaskets have disintegrated AGAIN.
I don't see how this gaskets could be installed incorrectly, so I have to conclude the gaskets that came with the kit I used (Felpro?) did not withstand the oil as they should. Either way, I need to replace those <> pieces of rubber again
Now: since I don't want to be doing the same thing every 5 k miles, any good brand for these gaskets? Is there a material (neoprene?) that would last longer in contact with the oil?
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My 95 TS 3.8L is misfiring on #4cyl ONLY when reverse is applied. When car is in reverse with parking brake applied, consistently misfires on #4. In drive with brake applied and engine load no miss. Neutral no miss.
Car drive ability is great in drive no misfires. 100% misfires on #4 only when in reverse. Is there any vacuum change or assist utilized with this trans? Possibly vacuum leak? I do not have a vacuum gauge. I changed to a different plug wire and same problem. New plugs installed. Have not swapped coils yet.
I am not familiar with this trans, other than the vacuum servo for upshifting I replaced when it was sucking up trans fluid like my old Powerglide in the OLD days.
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These super-hot days our TS had started to develop a very strange problem:
- when you first start the engine the A/C works normally and cold air blows from the front vents on A/C or MAX as usual
- if we shut-down the engine and try to engage A/C or MAX again the cold air would only come-out through the top (windshield) and low vents - no more front ventilation
- all solenoids appear to be working (moving)
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Just recently the CEL started acting...first, would come ON then after some time would shut off....but now it is ON and stable. I was almost sure it had to do with EGR....checked codes and indeed, 55 , large EGR port failure and, accordingly, 56, QUAD driver faulty voltage...obviously because of large EGR port solenoid control. I have not verified the EGR coils yet....will come back later as I'm going out for 2 days.... This is a rather new EGR valve...6 or 7 year old.....and in fact, no more than 25000 miles...probably less...
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I bought my wife a 2007 Ford sport trac about six months ago. It has always made a very peculiar sound. It only makes this noise when you are driving about 50 mph uphill. The sound is rhythmic and coming from the rear of the truck. I would compare it to driving over sets of rumble strips but quieter. The vehicle is 4x4 and my theory is that it has something to do with this.
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I have a 1997 jeep gran cherokee 4.0 it takes spells that it will start missing and then quit and will not start but a little later it will start and the code is number 43. Also it will backfire and destroy the muffler. I have replaced the coil and the crank sensor and muffler of course two times. This is not something that happens with heat. It will do it when it is hot or when it is cold also replaced the engine control module or brain. It may do it often and it may run for months before it does it. Again always code 43 when it sets a code what is wrong ?
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I've replaced the drain plug, filled up the radiator with proper coolant/antifreeze, turned on the engine then closed the cap to see the needle going fast to near the red mark. I turned off the engine and touched the cap with my finger but it was cold so I did the same with a hose, not hot.
Well, it seems the problem was not all circuit was filled. I did add more after a while running and now it is working normally (knock wood).
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Here is one of the nicest-running van we ever had with a 3.1L V6 TBI Chevrolet engine that always ran too good to be true.
Few days ago it developed a misfire condition that is very pronounced when the engine is hot/at operating temperature - under load it hesitates like it's running in 4 cylinders out of 6. When cold it starts right away and runs good & smooth.
Now the van can't go anywhere - it misfires so severely that the engine stalls and dies at idle.
What we tried so far, to no effect, was:
- changing the spark plugs & wires
- replace the distributor cap & rotor
- replaced the EGR valve
- replaced the IAC valve
- replaced the MAP sensor
We had a lot of 3.1L Chevy TBI engines and none ran so smooth like this one and, all of a sudden, none ran that bad in such a short time...
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