Trans Sport :: 1994 TP 3.8 - Overheating In 2 Minutes From Cold
May 17, 2012
I've replaced the drain plug, filled up the radiator with proper coolant/antifreeze, turned on the engine then closed the cap to see the needle going fast to near the red mark. I turned off the engine and touched the cap with my finger but it was cold so I did the same with a hose, not hot.
Well, it seems the problem was not all circuit was filled. I did add more after a while running and now it is working normally (knock wood).
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I am working on my daughter's TS, it has been overheating. Water pump is fine and the thermostat is working fine also. I did notice that the temp gauge on the dash isn't. I have noticed that the fan isn't coming on either. I don't have a book on this car or a owners manual. So I am unsure of which fuses to check. I did try turning on the AC to MAX to see if that would start a fan, and that didn't work either.
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I replaced my '94 TS intake plenum and upper and lower intake gaskets last year, and as part of the procedure I replaced the badly-degraded rubber gaskets that go at both ends of the manifold (at both ends of the "V", one under the throttle body, one under the PCV valve or so).
A little more than one month ago I realized the oil puddle underneath the car contained -besides power steering fluid from a known leak- motor oil. When I investigated the origin of the leak, I discovered the <> rubber gaskets have disintegrated AGAIN.
I don't see how this gaskets could be installed incorrectly, so I have to conclude the gaskets that came with the kit I used (Felpro?) did not withstand the oil as they should. Either way, I need to replace those <> pieces of rubber again
Now: since I don't want to be doing the same thing every 5 k miles, any good brand for these gaskets? Is there a material (neoprene?) that would last longer in contact with the oil?
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I had a radiator leak, it lost all fluid in a matter of meters so fortunate I was half a block from my driveway.
I wonder where is the cap since I touched the bottom right from above and noticed there's a little hole, maybe the flushing cap is there? I don't know.
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Last week, the engine stopped twice in the 2 minutes after initial start....but then managed to take me back home. Was away for 1 week (not with TS) then when back , tried to start ...no joy.
This duplicates a similar event 8 years ago...solved with the ignition module being replaced.
[URL] .....
NO codes.
There are 2 options: crank sensor or ignition module. Will go for some tests and will report.
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When is cold, the engine starts but stops after 2-3 minutes. I can not start until after standing for 2-3 hours, and again stops.When I try to start, signs that would not fill with gasoline.What should I check first, what should be changed?
It was....now engine don't start!
Pontiac Trans Sport 1996,2.3l,16v,Quad4 DOHC
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If I press the gas a little hard in drive, my tires squeal but if I'm in reverse I can feel a slipping in the trans. If I try to back a trailer up an inclined driveway, it won't go, the trans slips. I have no crud in the pan. I've replaced the reverse boost valve. I installed a Trans-Go kit which is suppose to eliminate the reverse slip but it hasn't worked. Everything else works just fine and my fluid is red. I have engine braking in 2nd and 1st. The van backs up fine, it just does this in reverse under load.
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My Haynes manual indicates that the ELC exhausts air when the key is off. Is it intended to exhaust all air from the shocks every time I stop? It doesn't make sense to lower the vehicle every time I stop for fuel etc. With over 200k miles on this can it's amazing that the compressor still works.
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My 95 TS 3.8L is misfiring on #4cyl ONLY when reverse is applied. When car is in reverse with parking brake applied, consistently misfires on #4. In drive with brake applied and engine load no miss. Neutral no miss.
Car drive ability is great in drive no misfires. 100% misfires on #4 only when in reverse. Is there any vacuum change or assist utilized with this trans? Possibly vacuum leak? I do not have a vacuum gauge. I changed to a different plug wire and same problem. New plugs installed. Have not swapped coils yet.
I am not familiar with this trans, other than the vacuum servo for upshifting I replaced when it was sucking up trans fluid like my old Powerglide in the OLD days.
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These super-hot days our TS had started to develop a very strange problem:
- when you first start the engine the A/C works normally and cold air blows from the front vents on A/C or MAX as usual
- if we shut-down the engine and try to engage A/C or MAX again the cold air would only come-out through the top (windshield) and low vents - no more front ventilation
- all solenoids appear to be working (moving)
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Just recently the CEL started acting...first, would come ON then after some time would shut off....but now it is ON and stable. I was almost sure it had to do with EGR....checked codes and indeed, 55 , large EGR port failure and, accordingly, 56, QUAD driver faulty voltage...obviously because of large EGR port solenoid control. I have not verified the EGR coils yet....will come back later as I'm going out for 2 days.... This is a rather new EGR valve...6 or 7 year old.....and in fact, no more than 25000 miles...probably less...
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Our 95 TS 3.8 runs hot. I dislike the 195 Thermostat, but winter is coming. Temps can soar to 230 on gauge, with no air.(Now I remember why I had a 180degree thermostat).
I recently replaced a rebuilt delco starter that was about a year old.(faulty solenoid). I cannot recall if the Slow crank problem was there prior. When 230 degrees, intermittently I get a slow crank with dimming of dashboard lights, but bright headlights.
1. I know that the temps are supposed to swing a lot with this vehicle, but 75 degree days, 230 degrees when in heavy traffic is pushing it.(gauge). Is this normal for 195 thermostat?
2. Possible bad windings on new rebuilt starter? Armature drawing excessive amps when hot? Battery cables look okay, but original.
3. Considering a NEW starter and a heat reflector wrap for starter. New battery cables-thicker cable if possible(used welding cable for my old 421S.D.
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My 92 transport 3.1L had started quitting on me while driving. After sitting for about 15mins I could get it started and then continue on driving. Now its doing it more and I can't take the chance of going anywhere in it.
Got a CEL so I flashed codes 34, and 45. Where to start troubleshooting with what these codes are saying that I should do?
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Here is one of the nicest-running van we ever had with a 3.1L V6 TBI Chevrolet engine that always ran too good to be true.
Few days ago it developed a misfire condition that is very pronounced when the engine is hot/at operating temperature - under load it hesitates like it's running in 4 cylinders out of 6. When cold it starts right away and runs good & smooth.
Now the van can't go anywhere - it misfires so severely that the engine stalls and dies at idle.
What we tried so far, to no effect, was:
- changing the spark plugs & wires
- replace the distributor cap & rotor
- replaced the EGR valve
- replaced the IAC valve
- replaced the MAP sensor
We had a lot of 3.1L Chevy TBI engines and none ran so smooth like this one and, all of a sudden, none ran that bad in such a short time...
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From time to time, the first time the car is started in a day, the transmission (4T60E, 1993) may take several ............ seconds before first engagement, either in forward or reverse. Fluid level OK, color OK, filter changed 2/3 years ago. This began just a few months ago. After that, everything will work flawlessly for all the day , no problem at all, all shifts OK, all subsequent starts OK.
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I have a 95 Lumina APV 3.8 and have vibration coming from the puller fan (passenger side front of radiator). Inspection shows fan and motor good, the rubber mounting grommets are hard as nails.
Is there a secret source for these parts?
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I had an intermittent heater blower problem for a few years. Yesterday it turned into a full time heater blower problem. I unplugged the connector to the fan motor, and ran a power feed and ground to the fan motor terminals. It blows strong! I located the low speed relay under the glove box. I switched it with the adjacent horn relay, like was suggested. No go! What else can it be?
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My son sent me a text stating "mom is driving with the steering wheel at 90 degrees to the left!". I had to get this repaired ASAP. I thought maybe a tie rod went bad and maybe went further. Steering had been off slightly to left prior.
Firestone said that when they went to check alignment, they found that the strut tower was gone. I knew it had to be on the right side. The passenger strut tower rusted through at the mid rear, and broke the spot welds, and was not attached at most of its circumference. Fortunately, the body shop that repaired our van from a prior damage.(hit at stoplight). I replaced the struts about a year or two ago with quick struts. Did not even think of checking for this rusting issue.
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1993 TransSport 3.8: Where the heck is the oil pressure sending unit, and what is the best way to access it? What size of OPSU socket does it take; 1", 1 & 1/16", or 1 & 3/16". Do I need the 3/8" or 1/2" drive; extra deep or other wise? The van has a gauge on the dash.
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I have a 98 i just took it up on a trade. The sliding door on passengers side its automatic it wont open i hear something clicking but its not going. Other problem is the windshield wipers only work on high...
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We have a 1992 Pontiac Trans Sport with the Chevy 3.1 V6 TBI engine.
Engine was running poor because of a faulty Coolant Temperature sensor (rusted-out pins). Changed the sensor and cleaned-out rust from the socket and now it runs smooth when cold with decent acceleration.
Problem is that cylinder #6 is not firing when engine is hot at operating temperature. Engine shakes lightly but performance remains good.
Distributor, rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires and Oxygen Sensor were all changed 1 week ago with new ACDelco parts. What to check next?
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