Trans Sport :: 1993 - Windshield Washer Tank Goes Empty Without Any Use
Jun 10, 2012
"93 TS. I'm coming again with this mystery: I fill the windshield washer tank full.....and without any known reason, after a long trip...without any use of the washer...the tank goes empty. I've tested everything: disconnect the pumps electric supply, testing the tank for leaks, testing the pump seals for leaks.....all with flying colours. I just know that for no reason (that I can imagine) ...the tank goes empty.
I have theorized that vacuum created by speed at the rear of the vehicle would suck fluid from the rear nozzle !!! ...but have not verified that theory by pinching the rear feed tube....I should try.
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I had an intermittent heater blower problem for a few years. Yesterday it turned into a full time heater blower problem. I unplugged the connector to the fan motor, and ran a power feed and ground to the fan motor terminals. It blows strong! I located the low speed relay under the glove box. I switched it with the adjacent horn relay, like was suggested. No go! What else can it be?
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1993 TransSport 3.8: Where the heck is the oil pressure sending unit, and what is the best way to access it? What size of OPSU socket does it take; 1", 1 & 1/16", or 1 & 3/16". Do I need the 3/8" or 1/2" drive; extra deep or other wise? The van has a gauge on the dash.
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Tranny fluid spews out pretty good underneath. Is it likely a broken hose? Where do I start?
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I went to use my windshield washer the other day and no spray came out. The wipers did operate normally, which left me almost unable to see out of the now streaked and dirty windshield.
When I looked under the hood, the reservoir was very low. When I filled it today, it began leaking almost immediately. I crawled underneath and removed some of the plastic underbodies, but could not find where it was coming from. I guess it could be rodents chewing the hoses.
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1993 Transport 3.8 L
Starting out from stop it seemed to get noisy and was very late shifting to 2nd. Slowed down and tried again; this time it did not want to shift to 2nd at all. Brought it home slowly.
Trans fluid was right up. I did another road test, running it manually through the gears so I could easily hear and feels the shifting. 1-2-D-OD perfect; did this twice of thrice. Starting out from stop on the highway a couple times, it shifted up perfectly. I did some kick-downs and manual shifting; everything is working fine.
Could this have been a linkage problem? Could running it manually through all the gears smarted up the linkage or something? Could it be related to the 'modulator valve'?
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My windshield washer tank is leaking, need instructions on how I can fix it myself? Does the phone bumper have to come off, or is there a simple way to remove/replace it?
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We just purchased a used 2007 Elantra sedan. Noticed it was out of washer fluid when we got home. Went to fill it and as I was pouring in the washer fluid, I could hear it running onto garage floor.
When I looked underneath, I see there is a hole, 1 1/4" in diameter in the bottom of the tank. Obviously something was supposed to go in that hole. Low fluid sensor perhaps...even though I don't have a warning light indicator on my dash. The owners manual indicates that this light indicator on certain models where equipped.
Since my model is not equipped with this feature, is there a rubber plug or grommet that should plug up this hole?
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Filled up the windshield washer tank this morning and could not get the sprayer to work. Looked under the truck and it looks like all I put in is on the drive. Any one else had issues with 2011 F350 washer tanks?
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If I press the gas a little hard in drive, my tires squeal but if I'm in reverse I can feel a slipping in the trans. If I try to back a trailer up an inclined driveway, it won't go, the trans slips. I have no crud in the pan. I've replaced the reverse boost valve. I installed a Trans-Go kit which is suppose to eliminate the reverse slip but it hasn't worked. Everything else works just fine and my fluid is red. I have engine braking in 2nd and 1st. The van backs up fine, it just does this in reverse under load.
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My Haynes manual indicates that the ELC exhausts air when the key is off. Is it intended to exhaust all air from the shocks every time I stop? It doesn't make sense to lower the vehicle every time I stop for fuel etc. With over 200k miles on this can it's amazing that the compressor still works.
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I am working on my daughter's TS, it has been overheating. Water pump is fine and the thermostat is working fine also. I did notice that the temp gauge on the dash isn't. I have noticed that the fan isn't coming on either. I don't have a book on this car or a owners manual. So I am unsure of which fuses to check. I did try turning on the AC to MAX to see if that would start a fan, and that didn't work either.
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Gas light came on yesterday but when I went to fill the tank... Gas would not go in and the tank acted as though it was full, spitting the gas back out.
I propped the valve open for 15-20 minutes and when tried to fill again, it allowed me to pump gas. Is this a serious issue that I need to address immediately? What if I never let tank go below 1/4 full?
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I replaced my '94 TS intake plenum and upper and lower intake gaskets last year, and as part of the procedure I replaced the badly-degraded rubber gaskets that go at both ends of the manifold (at both ends of the "V", one under the throttle body, one under the PCV valve or so).
A little more than one month ago I realized the oil puddle underneath the car contained -besides power steering fluid from a known leak- motor oil. When I investigated the origin of the leak, I discovered the <> rubber gaskets have disintegrated AGAIN.
I don't see how this gaskets could be installed incorrectly, so I have to conclude the gaskets that came with the kit I used (Felpro?) did not withstand the oil as they should. Either way, I need to replace those <> pieces of rubber again
Now: since I don't want to be doing the same thing every 5 k miles, any good brand for these gaskets? Is there a material (neoprene?) that would last longer in contact with the oil?
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My 95 TS 3.8L is misfiring on #4cyl ONLY when reverse is applied. When car is in reverse with parking brake applied, consistently misfires on #4. In drive with brake applied and engine load no miss. Neutral no miss.
Car drive ability is great in drive no misfires. 100% misfires on #4 only when in reverse. Is there any vacuum change or assist utilized with this trans? Possibly vacuum leak? I do not have a vacuum gauge. I changed to a different plug wire and same problem. New plugs installed. Have not swapped coils yet.
I am not familiar with this trans, other than the vacuum servo for upshifting I replaced when it was sucking up trans fluid like my old Powerglide in the OLD days.
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These super-hot days our TS had started to develop a very strange problem:
- when you first start the engine the A/C works normally and cold air blows from the front vents on A/C or MAX as usual
- if we shut-down the engine and try to engage A/C or MAX again the cold air would only come-out through the top (windshield) and low vents - no more front ventilation
- all solenoids appear to be working (moving)
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Just recently the CEL started acting...first, would come ON then after some time would shut off....but now it is ON and stable. I was almost sure it had to do with EGR....checked codes and indeed, 55 , large EGR port failure and, accordingly, 56, QUAD driver faulty voltage...obviously because of large EGR port solenoid control. I have not verified the EGR coils yet....will come back later as I'm going out for 2 days.... This is a rather new EGR valve...6 or 7 year old.....and in fact, no more than 25000 miles...probably less...
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Our 95 TS 3.8 runs hot. I dislike the 195 Thermostat, but winter is coming. Temps can soar to 230 on gauge, with no air.(Now I remember why I had a 180degree thermostat).
I recently replaced a rebuilt delco starter that was about a year old.(faulty solenoid). I cannot recall if the Slow crank problem was there prior. When 230 degrees, intermittently I get a slow crank with dimming of dashboard lights, but bright headlights.
1. I know that the temps are supposed to swing a lot with this vehicle, but 75 degree days, 230 degrees when in heavy traffic is pushing it.(gauge). Is this normal for 195 thermostat?
2. Possible bad windings on new rebuilt starter? Armature drawing excessive amps when hot? Battery cables look okay, but original.
3. Considering a NEW starter and a heat reflector wrap for starter. New battery cables-thicker cable if possible(used welding cable for my old 421S.D.
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I had my oil changed at 65k and i checked it at 67k and it was completely empty. On top of that, my car didn't even notify me (not sure if vw does that)
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Why my empty gas tank light would come on after I just filled up my tank? I filled up and left the gas station with the gauge showing a full tank. I drove home and parked. An hour later I left the house and the gauge showed empty with the empty tank light on.
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The windshield washer does not work. What could the problem be? I thought I would check the fuse. What fuse is for the washer and were ls it loc? is it under the hood ? or could it be the pump and how would i check it ?
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