Trans Sport :: 1992 Pontiac - Huge Vacuum Leak And MPG Loss
May 31, 2013
One of the '92 Pontiac Trans Sports (3.1L V6 engine) had developed a huge thirst - the fuel consumption had doubled along with a serious loss of power. All ignition components - distributor cap, rotor, spark plug wires and oxygen sensor are new ACDelco's.
ECM is not throwing-up any fault codes but we suspect a vacuum leak since this engine runs better with the air intake covered-up almost completely.
Is there any way to trace and fix this kind of issue? Any vacuum diagram for this car - I couldn't seem to find it in the GM Service Manual... How would you suggest we proceed?
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We have a 1992 Pontiac Trans Sport with the Chevy 3.1 V6 TBI engine.
Engine was running poor because of a faulty Coolant Temperature sensor (rusted-out pins). Changed the sensor and cleaned-out rust from the socket and now it runs smooth when cold with decent acceleration.
Problem is that cylinder #6 is not firing when engine is hot at operating temperature. Engine shakes lightly but performance remains good.
Distributor, rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires and Oxygen Sensor were all changed 1 week ago with new ACDelco parts. What to check next?
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I have a 97 Pontiac Transport and I was traveling down the road and suddenly i lost oil pressure the light came on and it started clattering so I checked the oil level and it was fine so i had it towed home. I changed the oil using a higher grade oil and lucas oil treatment and started it ...I still have the problem what do i do...
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We have a '92 Pontiac Trans Sport with a 3.1L V6 TBI engine. Last Sunday evening it refused to start like someone left the transmission in Drive and the Park/Neutral switch was preventing it to start. There's the buzz sound from the fuel pump when you put the key on then nothing when you turn it to start the engine.
I checked the Park/Neutral swith by connecting an ALDL cable to the OBD port and it indicates correctly when I move the lever to Drive or Parking/Neutral. The only error code stored is "Fuel Pump Relay" but the Fuel Pump appear to be working?!
Battery is good, fuel pump fuse intact and the Park/Neutral switch appear to be working. How we can tackle this problem?
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My 92 transport 3.1L had started quitting on me while driving. After sitting for about 15mins I could get it started and then continue on driving. Now its doing it more and I can't take the chance of going anywhere in it.
Got a CEL so I flashed codes 34, and 45. Where to start troubleshooting with what these codes are saying that I should do?
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Suddenly both electric windows started going up in hops on our '92 Pontiac Trans Sport SE.
If you leave it for 5-10 min. it would resume normal operation then it freezes again in a few seconds and so on.
- window buttons (left and right) checked-out ok
- driver window motor was changed an year ago - it doesn't have the same wear as the other motor
- both window lift mechanisms and guides are properly lubricated and work smoothly
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2800rot./min when driving. engine showed signs that he drowns, I joined, he went shortly after that began to fall speed and the engine stopped. Then I could not start. Come to be fuel, received a little dirt somewhere and no longer feeds? What can I do?
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When is cold, the engine starts but stops after 2-3 minutes. I can not start until after standing for 2-3 hours, and again stops.When I try to start, signs that would not fill with gasoline.What should I check first, what should be changed?
It was....now engine don't start!
Pontiac Trans Sport 1996,2.3l,16v,Quad4 DOHC
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I had a radiator leak, it lost all fluid in a matter of meters so fortunate I was half a block from my driveway.
I wonder where is the cap since I touched the bottom right from above and noticed there's a little hole, maybe the flushing cap is there? I don't know.
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I have a 2005 Ford focus. I haven't even had it 8,000 miles. THREE times it has overheated, and I've had to replace over a gallon of coolant. The first two times, the cause was a leaky 'vacuum' cap. The third time it was a different cap that was leaking. This radiator has two (that I know of) unused ports on it. A 3/8" one on the top left, and a 5/8" one on the bottom left. They are capped off with little rubber vacuum caps, which are quite simple to replace. But, these things don't last long before they start to weather and crack and leak. I just replaced them after 2,000 miles (before they started to leak), and they're already cracked. But oddly, only on the OUTSIDE. Inside they're still smooth and unbroken.
I've asked for advice at auto parts stores, mechanics, and even at a radiator shop. They all say they've never heard anything like this before?! I just got some silicone vacuum caps which are specifically rated for high temps, but they're so thin I'm not sure I wanna install them.
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I have a misfire in the 6 cylinder on my 98 Chevy c1500 5.7l 350 v8 2wd. I changed the spark plugs and wires, cap and rotor, and changed the spider injector i put the spider injector in from another engine I had. After doing all this the code still comes up. The truck runs fine and except it idles slight rough not bad at all and now it says I have a vacuum leak and while I'm driving you can feel the loss of power. I tried all the ways to do it like on YouTube. What is wrong with my truck?
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If I press the gas a little hard in drive, my tires squeal but if I'm in reverse I can feel a slipping in the trans. If I try to back a trailer up an inclined driveway, it won't go, the trans slips. I have no crud in the pan. I've replaced the reverse boost valve. I installed a Trans-Go kit which is suppose to eliminate the reverse slip but it hasn't worked. Everything else works just fine and my fluid is red. I have engine braking in 2nd and 1st. The van backs up fine, it just does this in reverse under load.
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I have a 98 cavelier 2.4L..When engine is cold and the colder the outside temp is, the engine runs great with lots of power. but as temperatures rise, there is a huge loss in power. It feels like the computer is retarding the timing. Is there an outside air temp sensor to close to the rad??
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My Haynes manual indicates that the ELC exhausts air when the key is off. Is it intended to exhaust all air from the shocks every time I stop? It doesn't make sense to lower the vehicle every time I stop for fuel etc. With over 200k miles on this can it's amazing that the compressor still works.
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I am working on my daughter's TS, it has been overheating. Water pump is fine and the thermostat is working fine also. I did notice that the temp gauge on the dash isn't. I have noticed that the fan isn't coming on either. I don't have a book on this car or a owners manual. So I am unsure of which fuses to check. I did try turning on the AC to MAX to see if that would start a fan, and that didn't work either.
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I replaced my '94 TS intake plenum and upper and lower intake gaskets last year, and as part of the procedure I replaced the badly-degraded rubber gaskets that go at both ends of the manifold (at both ends of the "V", one under the throttle body, one under the PCV valve or so).
A little more than one month ago I realized the oil puddle underneath the car contained -besides power steering fluid from a known leak- motor oil. When I investigated the origin of the leak, I discovered the <> rubber gaskets have disintegrated AGAIN.
I don't see how this gaskets could be installed incorrectly, so I have to conclude the gaskets that came with the kit I used (Felpro?) did not withstand the oil as they should. Either way, I need to replace those <> pieces of rubber again
Now: since I don't want to be doing the same thing every 5 k miles, any good brand for these gaskets? Is there a material (neoprene?) that would last longer in contact with the oil?
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My 95 TS 3.8L is misfiring on #4cyl ONLY when reverse is applied. When car is in reverse with parking brake applied, consistently misfires on #4. In drive with brake applied and engine load no miss. Neutral no miss.
Car drive ability is great in drive no misfires. 100% misfires on #4 only when in reverse. Is there any vacuum change or assist utilized with this trans? Possibly vacuum leak? I do not have a vacuum gauge. I changed to a different plug wire and same problem. New plugs installed. Have not swapped coils yet.
I am not familiar with this trans, other than the vacuum servo for upshifting I replaced when it was sucking up trans fluid like my old Powerglide in the OLD days.
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These super-hot days our TS had started to develop a very strange problem:
- when you first start the engine the A/C works normally and cold air blows from the front vents on A/C or MAX as usual
- if we shut-down the engine and try to engage A/C or MAX again the cold air would only come-out through the top (windshield) and low vents - no more front ventilation
- all solenoids appear to be working (moving)
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Just recently the CEL started acting...first, would come ON then after some time would shut off....but now it is ON and stable. I was almost sure it had to do with EGR....checked codes and indeed, 55 , large EGR port failure and, accordingly, 56, QUAD driver faulty voltage...obviously because of large EGR port solenoid control. I have not verified the EGR coils yet....will come back later as I'm going out for 2 days.... This is a rather new EGR valve...6 or 7 year old.....and in fact, no more than 25000 miles...probably less...
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Our 95 TS 3.8 runs hot. I dislike the 195 Thermostat, but winter is coming. Temps can soar to 230 on gauge, with no air.(Now I remember why I had a 180degree thermostat).
I recently replaced a rebuilt delco starter that was about a year old.(faulty solenoid). I cannot recall if the Slow crank problem was there prior. When 230 degrees, intermittently I get a slow crank with dimming of dashboard lights, but bright headlights.
1. I know that the temps are supposed to swing a lot with this vehicle, but 75 degree days, 230 degrees when in heavy traffic is pushing it.(gauge). Is this normal for 195 thermostat?
2. Possible bad windings on new rebuilt starter? Armature drawing excessive amps when hot? Battery cables look okay, but original.
3. Considering a NEW starter and a heat reflector wrap for starter. New battery cables-thicker cable if possible(used welding cable for my old 421S.D.
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I've replaced the drain plug, filled up the radiator with proper coolant/antifreeze, turned on the engine then closed the cap to see the needle going fast to near the red mark. I turned off the engine and touched the cap with my finger but it was cold so I did the same with a hose, not hot.
Well, it seems the problem was not all circuit was filled. I did add more after a while running and now it is working normally (knock wood).
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