TrailBlazer :: Fuel Gauge Sensor Blown Out
Sep 16, 2014
My '06 Trailblazer has apparently blown out the fuel gauge sensor. it was erratic then stayed on "E' for two months. So I get to drop the tank to check it... how to check it easily. So I'm figuring if I'm going to drop the tank maybe I should just get a pump and sensor replacement. It has 150 k.
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In the last 24 hours my fuel level sensor is failing intermittently. After filling yesterday the fuel gauge went to zero and the MFD read "---" for any range or fuel calculations. Rebooted the car ( ) and it came back on, then off again. today it seems to be working, but I'm waiting for the other shoe to drop.
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2008 hyundai santa fe. 106,000
Bought the car six months ago.Found out 2 weeks later we couldn't put gas in it. Dealership refused to fix it because we bought as is. So we managed to find one gas station in a 20 Mile radius that we could put gas in it.It takes around 10 minutes to put half a tank in. Shortly after that the gas gauge started to fluctuate from full to empty. And the check engine finally came on. Had the the check engine light checked.Fuel level sensor A was faulty. Took it to a local Goodyear in stead of the dealer ship. The sensors were 119.00 a piece and the labor was 145.00 to replace both. Had both replaced .Fuel gauge is working correctly now. But still having issue putting gas in car.
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I was driving to work but Sonata stop in the middle of the road acting like ran out of Gasoline. But the fuel gauge showed 1/4. I was tried to crank few more times but didn't start. Called road side assistant, tow truck took it to nearest Hyundai dealer. After they inspect, your fuel gauge sensor is wrong, fuel tank is empty.
My 2013 sonata is showing 61500 miles on it. They asked me $450 to replacing the sensor because bumper to bumper warranty covers up to 60,000 miles.
I decide to fix it later, put little bit of gas and than fueled up all the way to the top at nearest gasoline station. Fuel gauge works again, it is now showing full tank. I do not know how long it will last but it is scary.
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I am installing a fuel pressure gauge into my 02 7.3 I went to the thread the sensor into the plug hole on the fuel filter housing and it wasn't threaded, turns out the sensor thread is slightly smaller and a different thread ... The directions say to install it into the filter housing or the lift pump ... So I'm assuming I have to go the lift pump direction of installing it but where the lift pump is or how to install the sensor into it while not throwing a code or causin problems ... A step by step and even pictures.
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The daughter calls and says her '06 Trailbazers oil gauge goes to zero and then the oil warning light comes on. The gauge then comes back up in pressure and the oil warning light goes out. No engine noise according to her. Oil changed a month ago.
This happened several times yesterday on her trip to town but then started working normally and didn't act up again. This sounds kinda like a sending unit issue except for the intermittent part. Maybe the wire to the sending unit?
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My son's mother has a 2004 Trail Blazer EXT. 4.2 I-6. Vehicle is 800 miles away, so I can't do much from here, at least until I get home in 2 weeks. Check Engine Light came on, she said it has been running a bit rough. I told her to go to AutoZone and have the trouble codes pulled. It only flagged the P0014. Additional comments say:ECM has detected the camshaft phase angle has exceeded it's tolerance value.Probable causes:
1. Loose Cam or Crank sensor.
2. Excessive Timing Chain Free Play.
3. Blocked oil passage in the cam actuator assy or engine.
4. Incorrect oil quality or viscosity.
I can rule out # 4, it has Valvoline synthetic 5/30 in it. Been using that for several years. It is not quite due for a change, but I plan on changing it when I get there. Vehicle has been well-maintained, has about 120K miles on it.
I was advised the Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Actuator Solenoid assy probably needs to be replaced. In searching the AF forums, that seems to be the most likely culprit. I will check the cam & crank sensors first, to make sure they are not loose, connections clean, etc.I've heard that the Power Steering Pump will need to be rotated out of the way to gain adequate clearance to remove the actuator, but other than that, the job is fairly simple. Some have said part is only available from GM, (and I would prefer putting a GM part in there, rather than a Chinese knock-off). Would this be a normally-stocked item at the dealer parts counter, or special order? I will only be home for 3 days, so I need to make sure the part will be available before I get there. Just wondering if there are any "gotcha's" or other components I may need to replace while doing the job, or any special tools? How is that assembly retained - by a bolt, clamp, clip, etc? Do I need to order a gasket for it as well? Supposedly the debris screens can come apart in that assy, which can cause the failure. How does one go about cleaning any of that screen debris out of the engine while the unit is removed? (Or does it stay in the old part that is being replaced)?
Also, she wants to make sure it will be ok to drive the vehicle for about 10 days, without causing any damage? (She has a 10-15 mile commute each way, no highway driving).
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I have an 05 trailblazer with 99k 4.2 4wd. The headlights flicker sometimes at night when I let of the gas. Tonight was by far the worst. It looked like I had pulsating headlights. The dashboard lights do it as well. When it occurs the battery gauge drops several amps as well but returns to 14ish amps after things level out.
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I have been battling this for some time. The check engine light comes after a period of time from reset. I have changed the thermostat, temp sensor, coolant flush and added per MFG.
I am down to clutch fan. The temp gauge sits right at 210.
From what I can tell is the check engine light comes on because the engine reaches operating temp to SLOWLY. Im guessing because the clutch fan is spinning to early in the game.
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2003 Trailblazer 4.2... Two times now, like every other start oil pressure gauge is 0. The engine runs fine, oil level is fine, thinking of replacing pressure switch, ie sending unit after checking connections of course
. Was curious this is a simulated pressure gauge as I read on some other posts?
Supposedly the gauge unlike the stepper motor I need to replace for the speedometer is actually voltage controlled by a circuit board in the cluster.
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If the sensor starts to work loose the engine will keep advancing until valve loving embraces little piston then the party is over.
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I've a 2.0L Santa Fe CRDI 4WD, 2003. My Crank position sensor has blown. My question is, does the timing belt have to be replaced with the sensor, or can the sensor be replaced alone? I know the belt must be replaced with petrol models but I've been told it may not be necessary with diesels.
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2003 trailblazer Lt . when the motor is running the high pitch noise is coming from the fuel filter / fuel line area, if i crawl under there whil itd running i can get it to change noises when im grabbing the lines and filter but but it seems like it changes thje most when i mess with the hose where you hook a pressure gage up to it or bleed it
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I have been having a problem with my 2002 F250 Super Duty 4x4. It started about 2 months ago. I was in traffic (truck hadn't even been on for 15 minutes). The temp gauge spiked, so I pulled over and turned the truck off. I turned the ignition on and the gauge was normal so I started it and all was fine.
Fast forward a little and every so often about every 3 weeks it would overflow (coolant) but not get to the point that it would overheat. I changed the thermostat and all seemed good to go. Fast forward to yesterday morning. Got in the truck and left to go hunting, and I didn't even make it 10 minutes down the road when I turned the heat on and it blew cold.
I started to see the gauge creep up so I pulled over and shut it down. Upper hose was cold, lower is cold and both heater hoses are cold. After some time of waiting, I started it but the gauge kept creeping up and no heat, so I kept shutting it down. After about 5x of this, the heat worked and the upper hose got hot and all was right with the world. SO I drove it home. Coolant is new, flushed about a month ago and was running great since then. Thermostat is new. Do I have a blockage somewhere? Water pump bad?
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I have my aux fuel tank pump hooked to upfitter 3. It has worked perfectly until this week. I started to transfer fuel and the aux fuel gauge and fuel pump both quit. The led on upfitter switch 3 still illuminates, but no fuel pump. I found fuse 9 on passengers kick panel is for upfitter 3. The fuse was good. Is there another fuse somewhere for the circuit I've missed? I can trouble shoot the wiring if necessary, but it's tough to do all behind the left side underbed box and not easy to get to. I've missed something simple before I go further????
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I recently had my fuel pump replaced in my 2005 GTI ... twice. Both times, the fuel gauge no longer shows a full tank, and doesn't show empty tank correctly. Is there some way to reset the gauge? Is the pump somehow tied to the gauge, or did the mechanics mess the float up when they changed the pump? Sadly I had it repaired somewhere other then the dealer.
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I have finally gotten my 93 Explorer back on the road. Now I have a few things that I am trying to get fixed.
The first things that I need to get repaired is my Fuel Sending Unit replaced. How hard is this and what kind of pitfalls am I looking at.
The problem that I am having is that my fuel gauge is never right. The other day I ran out of gas, but the gauge said full. Go firgure.
Anyway I have been told that the problem is my sending unit in the fuel tank. So is there any advise on this repair.
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I have a 2004 F150 XLT 5.4 L 79,000 miles. Yesterday i was driving home turned a corner and the low fuel light came on and the fuel gauge is well below empty. I had approx 1/2 tank of fuel when it happened. I have since filled tank all the way but the gauge will not move and low fuel light stays on. Everything else is working fine! I have never run the truck low enough on fuel to make the dummy light come on.....
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Fuel pump in my Volvo 940 has been replaced twice. Since then, my fuel gauge has not worked right and I have had to pump gas about every 120 miles so that the fuel pump would work right. I would fill the tank, and 120 miles (about 5 gallons) later the fuel gauge would indicate about 1/4 tank of gas left. That's when the fuel pump begins to mis-behave. If I make a sharp turn, it would stopped pumping for about 2-3 seconds. If I continue to drive at that level of gas. I can avoid all these problems by keeping the tank at least "half-full", that is, by pumping every 120 miles. The car was totaled by a hail storm and I bought it back for $84. I like to operate the vehicle for as long as I can, one day at a time.
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Today I noticed my fuel gauge giving a low fuel light. I had just fill up 50 miles earlier. Stop fr fuel anyway and could only put 1 3/4 gallons in so the tank is full.
After fueling the gauge went up off the low fuel mark about what I had put in. The only other consideration was the batteries were down and charged last night.
Question. What do I look at first?
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During recent trip to WITW 2011, I started smelling fuel vapor after stopping and getting out of the car. The smell was easily noticeable near right rear wheel which is obviously at the fuel filler door and neck.
Also, at one time the fuel level showed tank 3/4 full, but after filling it up I discovered that it was nearly empty with appx. 3 Gallons left. After filling the car back up to full, the fuel level went back up showing full, however the fuel vapor odor stayed the same on the way back home.
I have scanned the car and no codes.
Inspected under the car for fuel leaks and found none.
Removed access cover over fuel pump under rt rear seat and did not see any signs of leaks.
Removed rt quarter liner to visually inspect, but did not see anything unusual.
Which component could cause vapors to escape if faulty? R32 now has 31k on it.
I searched and read about possibly faulty fuel sending unit causing faulty fuel level reading, so I will be checking that next. However, no mention about fuel vapor problems.
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