TrailBlazer :: Pulsating Headlights - Battery Gauge Drops Several Amps
Mar 6, 2015
I have an 05 trailblazer with 99k 4.2 4wd. The headlights flicker sometimes at night when I let of the gas. Tonight was by far the worst. It looked like I had pulsating headlights. The dashboard lights do it as well. When it occurs the battery gauge drops several amps as well but returns to 14ish amps after things level out.
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I have an 04 f250 diesel and i am wondering whatst are the minimum cca's i need to be able start my truck. Both of my batteries are no good anymore and i need to replace them both but not sure on the cca's the truck needs
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I just bought a 2010 prius (26k miles..prior collision.. so no warranty) for my wife. The battery drains in just 3 days if left unused. I had Toyota install a new battery. Again 3 days left parked and battery was dead.
I locked myself in and measured the consumption. It drains at the rate of 1.1Amps when parked. That looks very high consumption. I want to measure with SKS turned off, but that's going to be tricky. I believe SKS resets when battery is reconnected.
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I am 150 mi from my service dealer and my 2005 W12 won't start . The dash lights go on , a/c vents open etc, but the keyless start or the key itself does nothing .
I recall that there may be a way to use the Accessory Battery to start the car, but I don't recall the routine. I don't want to have any local roadside service messing around. BTW it is the original battery and shows about 14amps.
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The daughter calls and says her '06 Trailbazers oil gauge goes to zero and then the oil warning light comes on. The gauge then comes back up in pressure and the oil warning light goes out. No engine noise according to her. Oil changed a month ago.
This happened several times yesterday on her trip to town but then started working normally and didn't act up again. This sounds kinda like a sending unit issue except for the intermittent part. Maybe the wire to the sending unit?
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My '06 Trailblazer has apparently blown out the fuel gauge sensor. it was erratic then stayed on "E' for two months. So I get to drop the tank to check it... how to check it easily. So I'm figuring if I'm going to drop the tank maybe I should just get a pump and sensor replacement. It has 150 k.
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While driving at night time the headlights will go out at random. The marker lights will stay on and the lights will still not turn on if I switch the light switch from "automatic" to "on". When the lights are out I can use the high beams while in "automatic" or "on".
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I have been battling this for some time. The check engine light comes after a period of time from reset. I have changed the thermostat, temp sensor, coolant flush and added per MFG.
I am down to clutch fan. The temp gauge sits right at 210.
From what I can tell is the check engine light comes on because the engine reaches operating temp to SLOWLY. Im guessing because the clutch fan is spinning to early in the game.
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2003 Trailblazer 4.2... Two times now, like every other start oil pressure gauge is 0. The engine runs fine, oil level is fine, thinking of replacing pressure switch, ie sending unit after checking connections of course
. Was curious this is a simulated pressure gauge as I read on some other posts?
Supposedly the gauge unlike the stepper motor I need to replace for the speedometer is actually voltage controlled by a circuit board in the cluster.
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My battery light come on this morning. The volt meter is sitting right where it always has though. I noticed that the battery light is kind of pulsating with rpm and at idle its very very dim.
E99 F-250 PSD ....
Where should I start?
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I realized some "Fog" in both of my Headlights, even Waterdrops ran down behind the screen of one of them... O.K., it's Wintertime and I know the Physics of Humidity and different Temperatures quite well - but this seems a little bit too much for me. VW says, this is "normal" but I do not think so. How to get the humidity out? It's not so easy to get them open, because I got the same double Xenon headlights...
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For the first ten minutes after my car is started (until it warms up), the oil gauge drops to 0 while accelerating. When I take my foot off the gas, it goes back up. After the car is warm, the gauge works fine and unless the car cools completely down, it gives me no more trouble until the next morning. We have tried:
1. Changing the sending unit (twice);
2. Changing the oil;
3. Working on the electrical contacts;
4. Cleaning all of the parts around it.
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99 passat with 160,000 miles. I am having a issue with my instrument cluster panel. RPM gauge keeps flickering and when i brake it drops all the way to zero. Also when i brake the oil light starts flashing. I had it in a shop and the guy said the oil was fine and that he though the cluster panel was bad. I got a new cluster panel and still same thing happens.
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I have an 01 F150 Lariat Supercrew 4x4 with the 5.4 Triton. The truck has 222,000 miles on it. Recently, I have noticed that when I am stopped at a stop light/stop sign while in gear, the oil pressure gauge drops to zero and the light comes on. As soon as I let off the brake and give it gas, it pops back up to normal. While driving, the needle never moves and stays consistent until I stop again, and back down to zero it goes.
If I put the truck in Park, the pressure goes back to normal. Same with neutral. It seems it is hit or miss and does not do this all the time, but I just wanted to see what your thoughts are. After doing some research I am leaning towards an oil pressure sensor/sending unit.... The truck runs perfectly fine, I just want to make sure it is not something more serious.
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Passat TDI: Occasionally the needle on my gas drops to zero, stays there for awhile, then returns to an accurate setting. THE SAME THING is happening on my '99 Jetta GLX. Bad gauge on both cars? Could water from a gas pump due this?
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2004, 3 door Accent, 150K miles. This has been going on for many summers now (had an idea when driving from work). Well when I got home from work, gauge still read E, turned the car off, then back to ACC, still read E.
Opened the fuel cap, didn't hear any hissing noise or any indication that there was alot of pressure build up, put cap back on, turned to ACC, and gauge read normal.
So after a long story my question is this, is there a pressure regulator that when it over pressures, lets it vent, and what is it called and where is it located? I am thinking that regulator might be stuck closed.
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Ok, had the prius c four for a few months now. What is up with the gas gauge? When I get down to one rectangle my cruising range drops to like 9 miles. I got gas and put in 8 gallons, which means I had 1.5 gallons still. Why is it showing such low cruising range mileage? Looked through the manuals by couldn't find anything useful. Also, is there a way to see exactly how much gas you do have? The rectangles seem a bit arbitrary to me when it comes to representing an actual amount of gas?
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I have never seen any of my other cars do this and I just want to see if this is normal. It happens like clockwork every time I get in the car with a cold engine. I let the car sit while the RPMs are high and as soon as the tach drops I start to drive the car softly. The engine temp gauge reaches normal operating temp in a normal amount of time, it does not just jump to the middle. But after about 1 minute it just starts falling quite quickly, as you can see in the video. It's very predictable - happens every time I drive it so it was easy to catch on video. I don't notice any difference in engine performance. Is this normal for a VW GTI or is something wacky going on?
You can skip to 19-20 seconds in the video to see the needle drop.
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Gauge/Sensor Problem ??? Great oil pressure on start up (40-60 PSI) but as car heats up, gauge SAYS pressure is dropping below 20 PSI. Dip stick says plenty of oil and filter is brand new. No knocking from valves either.
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I have a 2004 Honda Civic that has about 183,000 miles.The problem is that when I start my car in the morning, the car never totally warms up when it's cold outside (I live in VA), until I press the gas pedal and rev the engine. Until I press the gas pedal, the temperature gauge stays at cold, and the heater blows cool air. I've taken it to the dealer 12 times for the same issue, but they can never find the real problem.
They flushed the A/C hoses and radiator, replaced the radiator cap, installed an upper hose, installed head gasket, water pump, and while there, the timing belt. They've also "burped" it numerous times. Also, when I have the heater on and fan on high, the temperature gauge drops as I'm going down a mountain and not pressing the gas pedal. After driving, and I stop, it also slowly drops while idling for about 5 - 10 min.
When it's warmer outside, I don't have any problems, because I don't have the heater on. This has been going on for about 1 1/2 years now, and it's starting to get cooler again, so I need to get it fixed or sell it.
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The battery on my 4.2 liter inline 6 2008 chevy trailblazer is draining without the key in the ignition. I have checked the alternator, fuses, and starter with no luck. What might be causing this problem?
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