TrailBlazer :: AC Fan Started Blowing High
Jun 29, 2013
The fan for the AC started blowing at high the other day when it was first started which is normal when its hot out. But after a few seconds it slowed then picked up, them slowed, the picked up. Just like it was confused.
I turned it off and then back to AUTO and it was OK again. This happened twice now in the last three days when it was hot out. Today the fan would not start until I turned it off and on a few times. Blower, blower resistor, AC dash control.
'02 TB w/ auto climate control.
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I have a 2004 Trailblazer, and just recently the A/C just stop blowing. I have checked to relays and fuses and all are fine, I even checked the fan motor relay thinking that would work. I am at a lost right now and have no clue what else to check.
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my AC is only blowing through the defrost and the floor - It's a cool 101 degrees here today!!
We have changed out the battery, the actuator on the passenger AND driver side, as well as pulling the HVAC fuse from the fuse box under the rear seat - none of this has worked!
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So I can't figure out what is causing my a/c to randomly stop working,it's not leaking or freezing up and it's not the clutch or fuse and so on. What it does is basically it transitions from cool humidity free air to warmer humid air It's been in two different shops and produces no error messages either,however when it does it if you turn the car off and start it again it starts working fine. I've been going crazy trying to figure out what it is!
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I was driving 90 km an hr. and my trailblazer went into neutral and started making a ticking noise and it wont go forward or backward...
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The master window switch in the front, driver's side of my 2002 trailblazer started malfunctioning last week. The issue is, the button to open/close the front, passenger window is stuck in the down position. So there is no way to put the passenger window up. All the other buttons work fine on the switch. I've pulled the whole switch out and pulled out the plug. Then I was able to use the window button on the passenger side to put the window up.
But if I plug the master switch back in, the passenger window opens back up immediately and stays that way. I've ordered a replacement part online but it's going to take a week to arrive and I've got an issue in the meantime.
I've been leaving the master switch unplugged and just locking my doors manually, I can't open any of the other windows and can't set the alarm on the truck. And because it's unplugged, it is drawing power off the battery somehow. So I turned off the interior lights and everything but after two days of leaving the switch unplugged, the truck started having major malfunctions, no AC, no radio, no indicator light telling me what gear I'm in, gas gauge doesn't work, etc. So then I plug the switch back in and everything is fine again except the damned open passenger window.
Is there any way to de-activate the front passenger window from the passenger side so that I can plug the master switch back in until my new part arrives?
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Last week my wife's battery in her 03 Trailblazer was dead in the morning. I jumped it and it seemed fine all day. That night I tried to start it and it was dead again so I replaced the battery. The next day, she looked out at the parking lot at work and her lights were on after it sat for a while. She could not turn off the headlights no matter what. She said she heard a squealing noise under the hood.
I could not duplicate it when I got home, so I replaced what I think was the lowbeam relay. Later that night I looked, and her headlights were on. I got under the hood and the highbeam relay was squealing. I removed it and the lights went out. I replaced the relay with a new one, but the relay immediately squealed and the lights went on. I have the relay out now and the problem is gone, but we have no highbeams.
What is causing the relay to squeal and turn on the highbeams?
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I have a 2008 Chevrolet Trailblazer. I have had 4 of these vehicles and have been very pleased. This latest one has 61000 miles and occasionally has a very strange vibration at speeds above 60 mph. It only happens occasionally and most often occurs at these higher speeds and worsens with increased speed (of 70-73 mph). The vibration is so alarming, that I will press my brakes to slow down, because it feels like the vehicle is starting to lose control. The problem is that when I press the brakes, the vibration intensifies about 3-4 fold! It feel as if the wheels are going to come off. It's a very frightening feeling. I have taken it to the shop and no one seems to know what it is. The tires are fine. Brakes are fine. Interestingly enough, if I lower the speed to 50-55 mph, the vibration lessens and eventually completely goes away.
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2003 trailblazer Lt . when the motor is running the high pitch noise is coming from the fuel filter / fuel line area, if i crawl under there whil itd running i can get it to change noises when im grabbing the lines and filter but but it seems like it changes thje most when i mess with the hose where you hook a pressure gage up to it or bleed it
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When I have the A/C blower going at 5 which is high setting the Airflow Makes a swooshing effect. it still blows air and is cold but fluctuates to a swooshing effect. Also when the car is at idle I hear a faint thumping sound that comes and goes from the passenger side under the dash?
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A few months my AC starting blowing hot air. When I was at the dealer, they claimed the compressor was bad and wanted over a 1000 to replace. I looked online when I was there and said the new denso compressor was about 300 online. They wanted double. I just left and didn't worry about it since it was about winter then. Now I need to get it fixed.
A guy noticed the other day when I cut the AC button on, the clutch engaged and cut back off. He didn't have time to fully check it that day and wants me to bring back if I can another day.
I did some searching on this board, but haven't seen compressor issues with the SC430. I have a 94 ES300 and a 2004 RX330 and neither have had compressor issues. So I am shocked at this anyway.
I bought a relay, but that did not work. I just read on the LS forum that a lot of people have had problems with the AC pressure switch.
I understand that switch could prevent the compressor from coming on when the switch goes bad. Do we have that switch on the 06 SC430? If so, where is it? I can't find a part number listed in All data. I would love to check it before spending a ton of money on compressor replacement.
By the way, I have plenty of refrigerant. They checked that at the dealer and added some then. And I did AC diagnostics and show no codes.
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My wifes car AC just started blowing warm. I figured it was getting a little low on refrigerant. So I went and bought a can with the gauge on top, and I connected it and it was reading half way into the red zone....way overcharged. But nobody has put any in the system since we bought the car over a year ago. The AC has been great for all this time. So how can it be blowing warm and be overcharged that much without overheating the cars engine ? The clutch is coming on with the compressor?
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I have a 2005 Yukon XL. In Oct 2010, my front A/C started blowing hot air even though it was set to cold. Nothing has happened since then, except that about a month ago, the A/C in the front stopped working but the A/C in the back still works great. The one in the front works when it wants to (once or twice in a week) and when it does, there is cold air coming out of it. We live in FL so it is getting pretty hot to not have A/C and we are going on vacation soon. What can be causing my A/C to work like this?
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I've got a 2007 Sonata that has started blowing HOT air. It's like the compressor isn't on. In looking for the issue, I looked for blown fuses first because I find it hard to believe that the AC would work fine and then stop working minutes later. Sure enough, I found a blown A CON fuse in the fuse box under the hood. No problem right? Just replace it and everything will be A-OK. WRONG. Every time I replace the fuse and test the AC it blows. I'm thinking maybe something with the relay?
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My 06 mazda has recently started blowing smoke from the exhaust and jerking it self when accelerating.i have changed the spark plugs and i found one soaked with motor oil. The car only has 75000 miles on it....
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Alright, so we had an unfortunate run-in with a parking space and I ripped the front under-tray off, not sure what it's actually called. I still have it, the eyes are just ripped out.
But that's not my main issue. The main issue is that the A/C only blows hot now. I know you can sometimes kill a condenser, because road debris will puncture it, but how do you know for sure what's wrong? I'm good with my hands and not afraid to take my car apart, I'm just wanting to be sure before I go ordering parts. I have the relevant sections of the repair manual, but if it's the ES18 compressor or something, how would I know? And is there any way to know without taking the bumper off?
I'll also need a source for ND OIL 11..
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I have a 1988 Toyota Camry LE V6. And recently the heater just started blowing ice cold while on the hot setting.
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Out of nowhere my fuse #30 has started blowing - thats the one that supplies the DC outlet points, or cigarette lighter plugs. And no, there are no pennies stuck in the outlets!
I've removed and unplugged all 4 outlet points from the loom, thats the one on the dash, inside the center console, behind the center console and lastly the one in the boot. Still a total dead short.
I've disconnected the 220v AC inverter thats behind the center console, and still measure a dead short.
What else does this fuse/line supply? The only things not working are my lighter plugs, everything else seems fine. Any wiring diagram perhaps - I'm sure there hasn't been much of a change in interior wiring over the years.
2009 2.0 TDi
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I have an 05 prius that has been a great car 193,000 miles with no issues, until now. AC started blowing warm air so took it to mechanic who replaced the compressor. Blew cold for a day and started blowing warm again. Took it back to mechanic replaced the evaporator. Same thing blew cold for a day and then warm air next day.
Mechanic told me to take it to Toyota to get it looked at and they said 3 way coolant valve so we replaced that and still blowing warm air. Took it back to Toyota for the second time and they said it was a bad compressor so we replaced that and still no cold air. No AC in Florida summer is getting old fast need to get this fixed.
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Chrysler Town and Country. The engine warms up just fine regardless of my speed or throttle position, but the cabin heater has started blowing cold air when I back off or sit at idle. It may be relevant that we hear a lot of gurgling in the dash soon after starting the engine.
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I bought my 2005 prius used 6 months ago, all the mechanics work fine except my AC which started going in June.
Over 2 weeks it started blowing less, eventually nothing. Used the refrigerant (the correct one with no oil) and filled to around 33 every other day for a while and it would work great. Finally went to dealership 3 weeks ago, paid 140 and they replaced one valve (expansion valve? cannot remember) and filled it up and it worked for 1 week. They said a previous owner had dye put in and they saw the dye there.
Brought it back when I thought it was starting to go again and they said they saw a small amount of dye leaking in the evaporator but it would last 2 months minimum (obviously didn't). I was quoted 1400 for evaporator replacement.
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