TrailBlazer :: 2008 - Secondary AIR System Switching Valve A Stuck Open (P2440 Code)
Jan 15, 2014
I have a P2440 code from warning light- Secondary AIR System Switching Valve A' Stuck Open. This started to appear when I took it into the dealer for other issue with transfer case whining when in 4x4. Can this code be associated with something the mechanic did , would they remove any sensors or wires, that may not have put back. Not happy. Are these trucks know for this code? Estimate cost?
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Just got the dreaded p2440 code which is the secondary air injection valve failure. Not only do you get several lights on the dash, you also get limp mode with this code.
My GX is a 2011 with 46k, and even though several Toyota vehicles have had their warranty extended to 10yr 150k for this very system, Lexus has done no such thing.
The dealer was very familiar with this issue and knew it wasn't covered under any existing warranty. He said it's "around $2000" to fix because one of the valves is still under the intake manifold.
Even though I hate to "RIG" my GX, I ordered the bypass module from EBAY. It blocks the system off and tricks the ecu into thinking all is well.
For those not familiar, this system runs on cold starts for 30 seconds or so to warm up the cats, it has no other function.
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120K miles - love the car
CEL, skid, VSC trac and VSC off lights on - dealer said the code was p2441 Secondary Air Injection System switch stuck. Dealer said I needed to replace air injection system and that the cel would not go off until it was repaired. They completed the 120K service and when I picked it up, all the warning lights were off. I have driven it a couple of hundred miles since then and still no lights. Does that mean it could have been something else???? I love the car, but I need tires and brakes and now repair charges for a 2005 car with 120K.
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I had a code for the EGR valve stuck open. I tried cleaning it but it didn't work (and didn't seem that dirty). Then I tried replacing it. Both times the code came back. What should I do now? I reset the code each time by disconnecting the battery.
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So for the past week or so, I've been having problems with my cooling system. (May or may not be related to my air valve stuck open code, just thought I'd mention it.) First thing that drew my attention to the problem was smoke (or steam) coming from under the hood, I let the car cool off, and drove home. During this time I also noticed the heat stopped working. I went to get some coolant in another car and filled it up. Smoke went away, and heat started working again.
Later the same day I checked the reservoir and it looked low so I figured the radiator sucked all the coolant up, so I refilled the resivoir tank. I spilled a nice amount when doing that, and the steam came back. It cooled down again and no more steam, figured it burnt off. The next few mornings on my first drive of the day ONLY, I saw steam. Thought it was the condensation mixing with the leftover coolant that I spilled since it didn't happen at all until the next morning.
Today was the first time it started steaming at night, and the heat stopped working again, even though the reservoir level was mostly full. I let the car cool down, and then I added more coolant and the heat started working again, no more steam either. Looked under the hood once I got home, abt a 20 min drive, resivoir was nearly empty even though car was still warm. No visible leaks on the smaller reservoir hose but there are puddles under the hood.
I've read it could be a leak of course, but also the Cap could be preventing the right pressure to suck fluid back in radiator after expanding into the surge tank, or something causing the tank to boil over....
Car is a 2013 Chevy Sonic with 68,000 miles. Coolant has never been drained/refilled since I bought the car new in 2013.
[IMG] ....
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I've had my 2000 V6 Passat in for service three times with Secondary Air System issues - the dealer said that the whole thing needed replacement. The indy shop identified a couple of things to repair but said total replacement was unnecessary. A secondary airs system valve has been replaced twice (same one both times). Check engine always comes on within a day - we took it to another dealer for their opinion and again. Said that I need to replace the valve (third time!).
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If the fuel relief valve is stuck open would it possibly throw a P1316 code?
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Check engine light computer scan indicates intake manifold runner control valve stuck open. Will it damage the car to drive it in this condition and what does fixing it entail?
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Yesterday the check engine light came on 03 Accord EX 4-cyl auto, the code is P2647. According to the dealership and O’Reilly print out it can be a number of things. The car starts running rough after 2700 rpms, and then (if you keep pressing accelerator) dies.
So I can drive it now as long as I do not accelerate too much. (That is great for the gas mileage, but does not work on the on-ramps)I did replace engine oil and filter yesterday, but the engine light is still on with the same code. The car has 175K miles.
O’Reilly manual suggests replacing:
•VTEC Oil pressure switch
•VCT Solenoid
•Pressure switch
•Solenoid Valve Assembly
The Honda Dealership said it might be:
•VTC Oil Control in Valve Assembly
•Valve Timing Oil pressure in the switch assembly
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Secondary air injection system leak detected-Bank 1 & 2... 2003 miles on my car and the CEL pops on this morning. VCV bodies are being replaced tomorrow. The tech didn't fully understand what parameters to test for or what conditions would be present to set this code, I can't say that I do either... the flapper could possibly play a role in this..?
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I got 2001 vw jetta 2.0.. I keep getting check engine light,,when i scan it keep saying P0411 Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected. i replaced new smog air pump, and new egr valve and today i was driving car and i got check engine light, its still same code.
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2004 VR6 24v ... I had another thread about my son's car stalling after driving about 20 miles and then running good again after letting it sit for a couple of hours. Anyway I changed the Crank Position Sensor and I have been driving it work and back the last couple of days so I am starting to relax that the CPS fixed that problem. Won't be positively sure for a while as the problem took a while to occur. So far so good.
While coming to work today the car picked up the P0411 code, secondary air injection system incorrect flow. When I changed the CPS sensor i unbolted a module underneath the car by the oil filter to get better access to the CPS. I did not remove it, just unbolted it so I could push it out of the way about and inch.
After putting it all back together and driving it for several trips with no stalling this P0411 comes on. Is that module I moved the Secondary Air Pump and could I have disturbed something. I will check it when I get home. How critical is that code. I read where it works to warm a cold engine. What effect would there be driving with that code?
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About, one month ago my car shut off while driving(pretty scary at the time). I pulled of the road and attempted to start it again. Everything looked good there, but as I was making my way home from work it started to act funny. It would not acknowledge me depressing the accelerator. When I got home, I ate supper, then went to have a look.
The car would turn on, but not acknowledge me pressing the accelerator at all, It did however go up to 30 mph at a snails pace as if it was coasting down a hill. I plugged in my code reader, and it read that the Throttle Body Valve was stuck open. I took it off and tore into to it a bit. I noticed the gears inside the TB itself were corroded and the butterfly valve was locked up.
I replaced the part, and tried to turn my car on with the new TB. All the dash lights are in working order, however upon turning the ignition to crank the engine, the whole car system shuts down. No lights no nothing, besides the car door open sound. The car will remain like this regardless of the key position until I have reset the batter(take off the terminals and put them back on) to which the process repeats itself.
The code reader says no codes are stored because I obviously reset the battery. So now am at a standstill.I believe the old TB froze up, because I had to run in through 3 ft standing water during a storm, and then deployed shortly after(I'm in the service) for a few months while letting the car sit.
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I have a 2010 GX460 with about 81000 miles on it. I recently got the above codes and after researching it I decided to take apart the air injection valves, and also the motor to see what was going on.
Luckily these parts are very easy to access on our cars. Take the engine cover and front plastic cover off. The two valve are on either side of the cylinder head, and the pump will be on the left hand side, front of the engine bay.
I ordered two new valves, and ended up just cleaning out my pump.
Here are the Part Numbers:
VALVE ASSEMBLY, AIR SWITCHING
2570138100
VALVE ASSEMBLY, AIR SWITCHING
2570238050
This is exactly what happened: [URL] ....
Here is what both of my valves looked like:
Here is what the air pump looked like:
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ok i was just driving my 2004 ford f150 truck and it stopped running. I turned the key and it started back up again and then while on idle it stopped again. I took it too auto zone and it showed a code of p1237 which as far as i can see says fuel pump secondary circuit failure. does that mean i need a new fuel pump and how hard is it to replace.
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My 2001 Buick Lasebre is not starting properly. I have to pump the gas several times before it will start; then when it is started at low speeds or idle it wants to stall. As long as I can some how keep pushing the gas peddle it wont stall. On the other hand when I am driving at higher speeds, anything above 40 or so it runs perfect. The check engine light was on and shows EGR valve stuck open. I have replaced the Mass airflow sensor, fuel filter, and the EGR valve. I had the code cleared and a short while later my check engine light came back on with the exact same reading. I bought this car only a week ago and was not expecting to have to fix a car I just bought and ran fine while test driving it. I have read may different forum that say that it could be anything from my fuel pump to vacuum hoses, to some other sensor.
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It showed up yesterday and I looked it up that it's the Secondary Air Injection System Switching valve stuck open. I cleared the code but this morning I heard the pump vacuum noise, which I have never heard before but the code didn't come back on. [URL] .....
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I have another CEL : P1404... I know what this is, EGR Valve Stuck Closed. I just have one question about this. Is the valve the pintle? If not, what is the valve?
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My son is joining the site as we try to diagnose his first diesel. We checked fuel flow, and the bubble test. We held the valve down in the oil filter and watched it fill up in about 10 seconds and see it register on the dash gauge.
My Scan Gauge say it pushes 180 RPM while cranking, but it only gets about 225 on the ICP sensor and the IPR instantly maxes out at 84. It has thrown a code P2623 for a stuck IPR valve.
I hear a hiccup in the crank, but I'll let y'all listen and tell me. Will post YouTube link of it.
What are the chances of it being just a hole in the IPR screen or bad valve? I'm afraid we have a HP leak and need to do the air test to find it. I've never done that test and barely hear (rock concerts), my son hears but doesn't know what to listen for.
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I just picked up a 06 XLT 4.0L with 125K that was a bank repo. After 15 minutes of driving the CEL light came on and the code read at local parts counter was 0402 which they said was the EGR system/valve. Is this a common thing? What are solutions (cleaning or replace)?
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The check engine light on my '05 Prius has gone on and off a couple of times and is giving me a P1121 code, which I found out means "Coolant Flow Control Valve Position Sensor Stuck". Does this have anything to do with the hybrid electric coolant pump that was replaced under recall a while back?
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