When I have the A/C blower going at 5 which is high setting the Airflow Makes a swooshing effect. it still blows air and is cold but fluctuates to a swooshing effect. Also when the car is at idle I hear a faint thumping sound that comes and goes from the passenger side under the dash?
View 2 RepliesI have had a 2010 Sonata for about a year and a half. Love this car! I had my brakes and rear driver caliper replaced about a week ago. Now my car makes a sort of high pitched noise when I apply my brakes and I'm almost stopped.
View 2 RepliesThere's a high pitched whine type noise coming from my Mass Airflow Sensor. I can get it to go away temporarily if I goose the gas pedal, but it comes back after a minute or two. Has not affected drive-ability, but it's pretty annoying. It sounds like the hot wire is probably vibrating. Is there any fix for it, or do I have to replace the sensor to get rid of it?? Have tried cleaning it, but that did not work.
View 6 RepliesI have question about power steering pressure switch in golf 4 1.8t
Idle go high to 2000 rpm .. when i plug-off the Power Steering Pressure Switch its go fine .. i want know is this " Power Steering Pressure Switch " effect stability in high ?
A/C is working, 45-47 degrees at idle. All fan speeds work. Air direction control is working, air to defroster, face and feet all seem to change when asked.
Issue is very low airflow, 4-6 inches out of the vents and no air can be felt.
Checked cabin air filter and while it could use to be replaced, removal of filter and replacement of the cover DOES NOT INCREASE AIRFLOW.
Where to look next?
Recently, the air coming out of the vents has been intermittent, sometimes it blows sometimes it doesn't. I think I found the issue, the electrical contacts in the harness that plugs into the blower are either rusted out or have been almost burned out. Not as bad on the blower harness where this plugs in but I see some soot in there.
Once I removed this and tried wiggling it around, the blower comes on. Do I need to cut the harness and replace it with a new one or do I need to worry about the issue being traced somewhere else?
My girlfriend drives this car and she always has the A/C on either MAX or on the highest fan speed, I think that could be a culprit just from overuse. The other thing that comes to mind would be a wrong fuse or missing fuse somewhere, even though I checked the BLOWER fuse under the dash and under the hood and the relay. All of them are of the correct rating and do not look or smell burned out. (I'm not entirely positive on how to check/test relays)
Wiring Harness Socket that plugs into the blower : [URL] .....
Wiring Harness Socket on the blower : [URL] ....
I'm getting very low airflow out of all of the cabin vents. I've already checked and cleaned/replaced the air filter and cabin blower fan and the ducting between the two, there's no obvious debris at the intake. The blower and resistor are working fine - when removed but left connected to the electrical, it starts up fine, is quiet, and changes speed appropriately when the fan speed in changed. I think there's either debris or something buggered in the system that controls the vents, but I'm not sure how to check that.
View 4 RepliesGot a check engine light and ran the codes and here's what I got.
P0174 fuel system too lean bank 2
P0171 fuel system too lean bank 1
P0174 fuel system too lean bank 2
P0171 fuel system too lean bank 1
P2187 fuel trim malfunction system too lean at idle ( additive )
P2189 system too lean at idle (additive) bank 2
Suggested parts maf sensor.
So im not getting any of the usual signs of a dirty or bad maf sensor. Power is fine engine is responsive and gas seems to be doing alright.
The fan for the AC started blowing at high the other day when it was first started which is normal when its hot out. But after a few seconds it slowed then picked up, them slowed, the picked up. Just like it was confused.
I turned it off and then back to AUTO and it was OK again. This happened twice now in the last three days when it was hot out. Today the fan would not start until I turned it off and on a few times. Blower, blower resistor, AC dash control.
'02 TB w/ auto climate control.
So tonight I went to turn my fan on for my heat when I started my car and noticed it is will only work when it is on the highest speed (4 I think). What the issue could be?
View 10 RepliesLast week my wife's battery in her 03 Trailblazer was dead in the morning. I jumped it and it seemed fine all day. That night I tried to start it and it was dead again so I replaced the battery. The next day, she looked out at the parking lot at work and her lights were on after it sat for a while. She could not turn off the headlights no matter what. She said she heard a squealing noise under the hood.
I could not duplicate it when I got home, so I replaced what I think was the lowbeam relay. Later that night I looked, and her headlights were on. I got under the hood and the highbeam relay was squealing. I removed it and the lights went out. I replaced the relay with a new one, but the relay immediately squealed and the lights went on. I have the relay out now and the problem is gone, but we have no highbeams.
What is causing the relay to squeal and turn on the highbeams?
I have a 2008 Chevrolet Trailblazer. I have had 4 of these vehicles and have been very pleased. This latest one has 61000 miles and occasionally has a very strange vibration at speeds above 60 mph. It only happens occasionally and most often occurs at these higher speeds and worsens with increased speed (of 70-73 mph). The vibration is so alarming, that I will press my brakes to slow down, because it feels like the vehicle is starting to lose control. The problem is that when I press the brakes, the vibration intensifies about 3-4 fold! It feel as if the wheels are going to come off. It's a very frightening feeling. I have taken it to the shop and no one seems to know what it is. The tires are fine. Brakes are fine. Interestingly enough, if I lower the speed to 50-55 mph, the vibration lessens and eventually completely goes away.
View 1 Replies2003 trailblazer Lt . when the motor is running the high pitch noise is coming from the fuel filter / fuel line area, if i crawl under there whil itd running i can get it to change noises when im grabbing the lines and filter but but it seems like it changes thje most when i mess with the hose where you hook a pressure gage up to it or bleed it
View 2 RepliesRunning the A/C for 20-30, I notice the fan not blowing at all even setting the speed to high. I hear something blocking the duct work. I stopped for lunch and when I came back I notice water still pouring out from the A/C
Huge puddle, almost cover half the car. Checked the fluid and confirm it was water. Where is the drain and what can I do?
I have a 2002 B5.5 Passat sedan. 140K.
Inside my passat, when I run my heater on #1 speed setting there is a high pitched squeak but it goes away on the #2 speed setting. It hasn't been a constant annoyance but enough to want me to fix it now. [URL]....................
I have a 2015 460LS and having trouble with setting the auto high beams. I have the lights set to auto , push the stalk forward and press the auto button; however, the brights do not go off when approaching oncoming vehicles at night. Am I doing something wrong, or is there something wrong with the car?
View 13 RepliesI've got a 2006 SD Lariat, 6.0. The fan only comes on when turned to high. The display moves when the fan speed button is pressed, but nothing from the fan until high. I don't really know anything about the operation of these things, whether they run on a vacuum, or electric, or??? I'm not sure where to start with it.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1990 E250 and the heat does not blow. I have only had the van a year and it somewhat worked when I got it, but at the end of least winter It stopped blowing. It does not matter what setting I have it on low or high. if I turn the defrost on and put my hand on the dash I can feel warm air but it does not blow. It is the same for the vent, I can feel warm air coming out but does not blow. Sometimes if I hit a bump it seems like it will blow a bit harder but not like it should. My question is, should I just replace the blower motor, or is there something else I should check first?
View 4 RepliesI am trying to solve a mystery on my mom's truck. It's an '06 4.2L F-150 STX with about 133k miles. It had a check engine light on until today- I cleaned the TB and changed air filter yesterday, and both were filthy. Code vanished later on while driving.
I want to check the PCV because the truck idles high and rough in any setting from park to OD, stopped or moving. Worse when stopped though. Entire coil pack has already been changed due to previous misfire problems. This feels similar to a misfire but without the acceleration hesitation. It has also had a recent oil change, and fuel/oil filter change as well.
There is only one hose connecting to the intake on this truck, and it appears to be a vapor line of some sort to the valve cover, but isn't a PCV cause it's just a hollow tube. There is nothing else coming out of the TB at all, except for the throttle control cable. I don't even seen any nipples or connections or holes where a PCV hose or valve should go. I thought it was on the passenger side, under the TB... but there is nothing here at all. I'm stumped.
I am beginning to think the truck just does not have one at all, which I know for a fact is impossible. I have traced every line on this motor from top to bottom, and I do not see it. Should have a heater on it I assume? What else can make the truck so rough? I don't buy it that "it's just that way". That is complete, lazy, BS. I have had/driven many trucks; 4x4s, supercrew, diesels, jeeps, dump trucks... I have NEVER had a truck run as badly and roughly as this one does. Heck, a twin-turbo 700HP diesel doesn't run this roughly.
As everyone can probably tell, I migrated from the 6.0 Diesel section. A few weeks ago I bought myself a 2008 F250 with a 5.4. I do have several questions: It is a 2008 with 116,000 miles on the odometer
The guy I bought it from had replaced the engine in it. The tag on the engine indicates a build date of 4-21-06. It supposedly had 40,000 miles on it. He told me that the mechanic that installed it replaced the spark plugs and replaced one of the timing chain guides.
What model year would the engine be considered for replacement parts and trouble shooting?
I do hear, what I would describe from the old days as lifter noise. It is not a ticking, but more of a swooshing, RPM specific, that is slightly louder when the engine is cold vs. warm. RPM at idle is perfect at 640, fluctuating only about 5-10. It idles very smooth, hardly detectable.
I do not know what kind of oil was used in the truck, but the filter was after market. I changed it to 5W20 with a **** filter the day after I bought it.
The rear end is geared 3.73, and coming from a chipped diesel, this one seems sluggish. I realize this is a very heavy truck for the engine, but should it feel heavy. The "lie o meter" tells me my MPG is 9.4 driving in the city. Have not yet had a good chance to take it on the highway.
So, to summarize in trying to learn the 5.4. What would the model year be considered. What should I check with the swooshing/lifter noise.
My 06 trailblazer started having issues when the weather was below 30 degrees at night. The following morning when I start it, it starts up and idles for about 5 to 10 seconds and then shuts off. Turn the key again and nothing, just dashboard lights come on. Wait a few minutes and try again.. Fires up, shuts off. If it's above 30 degrees but less then 45 to 50 outside I can use a lighter and hear up the key, put it back in the ignition and fire it up. Sometimes it takes 3 or 3 tries of reheating the key but then it will stay running.
As long as I run the heat and keep the inside warm it stays running, if the inside gets cold it will shut off again while your driving. If it's below 30 degrees outside the key trick won't work no matter how many times you try. If the temperature outside is above 50 it will fire up and drive all day without any hesitation. My husband replaced the ignition switch, alternator and battery and none worked. It's now been at the shop for 2 weeks and still can't get it figured out. The shop has tried heating up just the computer while it's out in the cold and it fires up and stays running but if he leaves the doors open and the inside gets cold it shuts off again.