TrailBlazer :: 2005 - No Fluid To Front Calipers
Jun 6, 2014
Just replaced front calipers on 2005 Trailblazer, when I tried to bleed I get no fluid to either caliper. I lost some fluid in the master but I filled it and checked rear brakes they work fine and have fluid, and I got no air from them. I also added fluid to each caliper.
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I have a 2005 Trailblazer EXT 4wd. I have an issue with my front driveshaft. I have been hearing a squeaking in a tin can kind of sound. It is kind of hard to describe. I thought front brakes. Checked them and they are fine. I crawled up under the front end and took off the skid shield to look around. Since it was in 2wd I tried to turn the front driveshaft by hand and there was the sound. The driveshaft does turn and the sound was appearing to come from the front diff.
I thought "Oh Crap" is there fluid in the front diff. It would make sense if it was empty to make a sound like this. I unscrewed the filler hole and there was fluid. Then I decided to flush and fill the front diff with fresh fluid. It was pretty dark and I don't know when the last time the front diff was serviced. I took it out for test drive and still have the noise. What i am asking now is what to look for next? Like I said, when turning the front driveshaft by hand in 2wd it makes that sound.
By the way, 4wd works just fine in all modes.
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I have a 2005 F250 & both front calipers are locking up. I have replaced the front pads, no change, my mechanic installed a new master cylinder. No lockup for about two weeks until today. Front calibers are locking up again.
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I need more stopping power. Is there a front caliper setup that you guys are using to get better brake performance? Either a direct bolt-in swap from a heavier vehicle (F350??) or a completely new aftermarket setup??
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Since I have this car i noticed that the brake calipers (especially the front) are very noisy. This problem is caused by caliper's floating guides that become loose and the entire brake caliper shakes. I asked at a kia mechanic who answered to me to change the calipers support. For my trusted mechanic is useless because, according to him, this type of support have this problem (he tell me that also others car have this problem like older nissan micra) and sooner or later would return noisy.
Some time ago with greasing the floating guides i temporary solved but drying up over time the problem come back.
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Fairly recently acquired 1992 525i, 101,000 miles. Love the car and driving feel, don't mind putting the effort in but do not know where to start. She needed some work including both upper and lower control arm bushings. Replaced those over the last couple of weekends. This week the front brake calipers are locking up adding significant drag to the car, overheating the front brakes, smells and feels hot. Rear brakes appear to be fine. Seller had replaced brakes within the last 5,000 miles. I thought maybe he did not 'grease' the caliper guide pins and components, so I tried that and all was well for a few miles then back to the same locking brake calipers.
Is this brake caliper, brake cylinder, master cylinder or ABS related? Do I need to bleed the system? I cannot not imagine how but could replacing any of the front suspension components have had anything to do with this? I read on one thread about an interconnection (power assist) provided by the power steering pump and that 'over filling' the PS reservoir could cause such a problem. I did add fluid to the reservoir recently but the level is between the marks on the cap dip stick.
If caliper, or cylinder related is this DYI? How about the ABS? I have been looking for some good links to address this problem and repair procedures but no luck as yet.
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I have 2005 Nissan Altima which I bought when nissan did an overall makeover. It has 102k miles on it. Offlate I am observing that when the car is shifting gears (automatic), I hear kind of some fluid moving through near the front passenger seat. I looked under the seat and the searched the whole car to see if there is a half empty water bottle thats making the sound. I dont see it though. Am I looking at some problem?
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I have a '99 Volvo XC V70 with turbo. The right rear and right front calipers are sticking.
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I've replaced the front brakes twice now on my 2004 2.4L Manual Santa Fe.
Each time the dealership has commented on some excessive rusting of the calipers, and this last time around one had actually seized and they had to cut it off.
When I got brand new ones put on I noticed they were nice an shiny silver. Within 3 weeks there were full rusted...and still are. I don't get it??
2004 Santa Fe .... Is it possible something is dripping from somewhere that is caused this premature rusting?
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Tons of information on this and its possible. What? I'm still learning the search feature.
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I have a 99 150 4 wheel drive..5.4 ..auto...110.000 mile.....notice when driving in town in hot weather....when you are on and off the brake petal a lot....stop and go..etc.....the truck starts to hop or bounce....some....I got out ..and notice the right or passenger side front brake seems a lot hotter than the drivers side......but ...when it does that....the steering wheel doesn't pull to one side...when changing pads before ..notice no one side worse for ware than other...thinking it must be sticking brake calipers....they don't do this say on interstate driving even when on and off the petal some...
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I have a 2001 mustang GT. I have 2 front calipers that are sticking. I changed both calipers twice, new brake hoses, bled all the wheels and the master cylinder. Why the calipers won't release?
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Heard clunk (technicdal term) noise when you are in reverse and press the brake pedal. It is coming from the front end/brake area. I did not see a service bulletin for this.
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I just bought a 1998 F150 2wd with the 4.6L(no ABS) to be my beater home depot truck. The brakes barely functioned, so I replaced the front bearings, rotors, pads, and calipers. I bled the brakes exactly like I normally do. When I tried to move the truck, the rear tires spun with the front completely locked(also discovered the right rear line had a hole and crimped the line for a moment, but it was the tire that was spinning).
I searched and many people said that bad rubber lines cause the calipers to lockup. I loosened the bleed valves and the fronts were still locked(jacked up the truck and used a breaker bar on lug nuts trying to rotate each tire). I am guessing that it has to be master cylinder or the steel lines. Any tests I could do to narrow down this issue further?
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2011 f250 6.2. put it in the shop to have the rotors turned, and front brakes while they were under there. Now it pulls to the right whenever you apply the brakes. Can smell brakes on the left front after a short drive time. Replaced that caliper and it's still doing the same thing. I'm stumped at this point.
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I have a 2005 v-6 and when I first start my car, its makes a real high pitch whining sound that will last for about 10 sec. before it starts to whine down.Then after that, its ok. It will not make any noise after that when I start it unless it sits for any length of time (6 to 8 hrs.) What might be the problem and If Its something I could fix myself?
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I have a 2005 2wd trailblazer with about 100k miles. When the car first starts for the day it has a loud whining sound for about 30 seconds. Sounds like it is coming from transmission. After the 30 seconds all is good. It has been getting progressively worse. Almost sounds like a jet engine. The sound will sputter and few times and stop. Its not the clutch fan or belts. It definitely from the back side of the motor.
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I recently bought a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer LS EXT 4.2l 6cyl with about 129k miles on it. The vehicle is excellent condition and has no leaks on the engine or transmission. I took it for a test drive before buying for about 20min and no issues with it shift or rough idling.
After having the SUV for about a week, I noticed that it has a slight rough idle at red lights and gets a little worse when the AC is on. Twice now in the past week the SUV begins to sputter at the red light and then shuts off. It doesn't do this every time and I have noticed it happens more when the fuel gauge is in between the quarter tank E line. My father in-law is having a similar issue with his 2003 Trailblazer, same engine and make and model.
I should also mention that no check engine light comes on or leave an ERR code.
Throttle body needs to be cleaned: We have done this on my father in-laws and didn't fix the issue.
Replaced the spark plugs: didn't solve the issue
Read that it could possibly be the APPS sensor under the gas pedal: Haven't replaced this yet
Tighten or replace gas cap: Have done this, didn't fix
Have the idle reprogrammed: Have not done yet.
Could possibly be a fuel pump issue.
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2005 Chevy Trailblazer. Whenever the temperature goes below freezing, the 4x4 selector switch does not work. After the car warms up (10 min), I need to turn it off and then restart it in order for the switch to work. I tried changing the selctor switch, that did not work. Is there some sort of solenoid or actuator that is freezing up?
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I have a 2005 chevy trailblazer that vibrates. Gets worse when air conditioner is on. I've put new tires, new front end alignment, new spark plugs, changed my harmonic balancer. My motor mounts are fine. My engine light is not on so i cannot figure it out.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Camry that we purchased 14 months ago. When purchased it had bad brakes so the dealer replaced the rotors and calipers at their expense. A month ago I took the car in for a routine oil change and was notified that my rear calipers were stuck open and that my rear brakes were not working and rusted. The rotors look hardly worn, the one on the passenger side has some deep grooves in it and the driver side is pitted. We feel that we had poor work done when the brakes were replaced and that the back never worked. After the brake job was done we would get some "chinging" noise in the back brakes and I had them inspected twice and they said everything was fine. But now we find out they weren't fine.
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