TrailBlazer :: 2004 Extremely Rough Idle - Code P0016
May 31, 2009
My brother-in-law brought me his 2004 Trailblazer that had an extremely rough idle and would die if ya thought about the air conditioner and all! So he had replaced the cam sensor, didn't work. He replaced the spark plugs didn't work. He replaced the fuel filter didn't work. So he asked me about it and ran across a fella talking about the CAM ACTUATOR SOLENOID and explained all about what to look for and such and low and behold new solenoid later purrs like a new one!!! It is look right above the power steering pump there is a plug in the side of the engine there with electric wires running to it.
One of the signs of being bad is oil inside that 2 wire plug just pull it off and look in it. Now to remove it you will have to take the power steering pump loose so it will move back out of the way so you can pull the solenoid out of the engine if ya get it out look on the end there are grooves running around it with little screens on them see if any are gone or coming apart, this usually sets a P0016 code which is stuff interfering with the sensors inside. If there is any oil in the plug or any screens missing then it will have to be replaced.
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'02 TB w/ code P0300 / Random misfire. Started the other day when it was very damp out, FWIW. Feels like ur driving on rumble strips during acceleration. Rough idle also. It does not do this continually though as after a while (minute) it clears up and runs smooth for a while then runs rough & light will again for a while. I seafoamed it today since it been about 60k since last seafoam. I thought that might have worked until I drove about 20 mile and it went rough again. I also cleaned the oil out of the cam sensor elect connector, since that caused rough running before, although it didn't throw that code. It seems to be very intermittent. '02 TB, 185k miles, orig plugs changed at 125k. Is it actually just going in & out of a limp-mode? O2 since it's random ???
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I own a Trailblazer 02' LS and its at 152,000 miles at this point. I am currently debating on whether its a better strategy to fix this current issue (explained further below) or start saving for another vehicle.
The problem I am having is the truck will sound extremely rough at random periods when im off the gas pedal. Sometimes it will try and shut off but comes back to me when jam on the gas pedal. Also sometimes during all of this, The oil pressure gauge will drop to 0 and go back up once I hit the gas pedal.
Random things: AC buttons 1-4 don't work but 5 does sometimes. It also Idles at 500 RPM's instead of 1000 like I've seen on other newer cars.
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A week and a half ago I went out to my truck to go somewhere and I got about 2 blocks away and the truck started running really rough and had a big lack of power, so I turned around and scanned it with my code reader and the codes I got were p2271, p2196, p0303, p0012, p2197, and p2272. since then I've changed all the spark plugs, boots, swapped all the coils and injectors from a great running truck, fuel filter, and the bank 1 upstream O2 sensor.
the other thing that came to mind that could of caused the problem is that a few days before the problem started. I jump started a co-workers car and he hooked the cables up backwards on his car. Could this be the cause of the problems I'm having.
The truck is an 05 F150 FX4 5.4 with 180,000 miles on it.
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So about six months ago I bought a used 2010 mkvi gti from a small dealer. Now here's my problem. The other day i started my car and it was a rough start. And the car ran rough. I stalled twice trying to back up. Then the car threw a light. I didnt drive it at all. Shut it off and left it. Read the code that night. P0016
Now I know the timing tensioner thing has been beaten to death. So that's my first thought. However, there was never a rattle or a noise. Nothing like that. Is it possible? All four cylinders have compression. About 210psi. I don't know if that is good or bad. Plugs are worn but look good enough. Not too much junk on them. Coil packs look "newer" and they are the "upgraded" versions. Other than the tensioner what else could cause a p0016 failt?
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2004 Trailblazer 6cy. 2WD - has been experiencing a very rough idle, engine shudders - no matter how long it's been warmed up. Wants to stall off red lights and at very low speeds. Not throwing any lights yet - but the speedo is out ( a cam shift typical problem for this car) so I don't trust the console for lights. Worse when the heat or air is on. Rides fine with more gas/higher speeds. Definitely worse in colder temps but continues even after 40-50 mins of driving. I've heard a number of things, but can't afford to fix them all. I've heard plugs, dirty throttle camshaft, sensors, cam actuator solenoid, etc. All seem to have people who said it fixed and didn't fix the issue. Worried I'm going to stall pulling off a stop and rear end someone any day now. Where do I start!?
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After timing belt change code P0016 with Check engine light trac off and VSC light on.
Put on the entire kit...timing belt,tensioner, idler, and water pump. When I took it apart to put the new cam crank sensor I inspected everything and all looked good.
Changed the sensor and reset code, a few hours later back on. Car seems to run fine. I didn't think the sensor was bad. Car was running great...just due for timing belt.
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A couple months ago my car (2001 Cavalier 2.4L) started running bad, it just happened one morning when I started it up. Its extremely rough idle at around 500 rpm for about 5 seconds and then it stalls out, if I rev it up with the pedal it'll stay going and you can smell gas coming out the exhaust. the car still drives but has almost no power. I changed the plugs and gaped them to spec of .050 as one of them was corroded really bad, that didn't work, so I replaced one of the ignition coil on the side of the corroded plug,I need to replace both ignition coils or the ignition control module isn't working right.
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Had the stem seals replaced on my 2004 toyota camry 4 cylinder (2az-fe engine). The job went quickly and the realigned both camshaft marks to the respective yellow link and #1 and #2 bearing marks per the manual. However, now getting a P0016 error indicating timing is a bit off. It is difficult to verify that the top camshafts are aligned correctly to the crankshaft without taking off the side cover. Doing that is a 6 hour job and requires an engine lift.
Is there any easier, surefire way to check and adjust the timing on this engine without having to take off the side cover? It is probably just a tooth off since it is running well.
The attached pictures show how it was aligned before buttoning up.
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My 2007 TrailBlazer with 84K stumbles for 25 seconds when I start up cold. After 25 seconds I hear a click and then it runs perfect. No engine codes present. Have new plugs, new O2 sensor, new thermostat.
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This morning when I started my car the RPMs were all over the place. The engine would rev to just below 2k and then drop, as it it were gonna die and right before it did, it would rev back up. Then, when I tried to move it, it would not accelerate and would hardly move and while coasting it dies if the clutch is depressed. The car does not die when idling (albeit a very rough idle) but it does when it is moving.
It flashed a check engine for a few seconds at one point but went away and has not come back on. I am running APR Stg 1 and a Carbonio intake. I switched from 93 octane mode to stock and nothing changed.
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I have a 100% stock 2004 Celica GT ~125,000 miles. Over the last few months I have been getting a rough idle and stumble at low rpms. The other day the car would not restart after sitting for about 20 minutes. Only recently has it actually thrown a DTC. The error codes were for misfires (P0300, P0301,P0302,P0303, P0304). I don’t get a code every time but the problem seems to be more noticeable if the car has been ran for a while, sits for 20-30 minutes while in a store and then when I try to start it when I come out of the store is when the problem most often occurs. When it restarts it will stumble at low RPM and if I hit the gas it has little response and misses badly. I have never used a scanner until now. I am using a Autel MS509 scanner and I am not sure it is giving me the correct diagnostic numbers for the live data. I think the DTC are correct but the live data is questionable.
Here is what I have done so far.
- Cleaned IAC valve (completely removed and cleaned)
- Searched for vacuum leaks using carb cleaner
- Cleaned MAF sensor
- Replaced all 4 injectors
- Replaced upstream and downstream O2 sensors
- Replaced Coolant Temp Sensor
- Ensured cam tensioner is providing adequate pressure to the cam chain
- Tried 2 sets of new Iridium NGK plugs and a new set of Bosch Copper plugs
- Moved coil packs around
- New air filter
- New fuel filter
- SeaFoam through intake and gas tank. I have not mixed in the oil.
- Compression Test (1=190,2=190,3=160,4=178)
Things I have not done.
- Taken it to the stealership
- Fuel pressure test
- Valve Clearance
I am concerned about the compression test because according to the service manual it should be around 218. I was using a Harbor Freight compression tester and I am not 100% sure I had a good seal with the tester.
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Just did the timing chain, phasers, oil pump and lash adjusters on my 05 5.4 s-crew. Always had a bit of a rough idle but now it's worse. If the truck idles for an extended period it sets a p0300. Just off idle the misfire is gone. It does seem a touch down on power but otherwise runs great. I did have the plugs out during the work. I cleaned them, applied anti seize and re installed. The previous owner had the plugs and COPs changed 10k miles ago. Plugs are motorcraft and coils are aftermarket.
I monitored with oreillys crappy scan tool and the miss only happens at idle. It is not a dead miss; unplugging COP on each cylinder still makes it worse.
Truck idles warm at like 570 rpm and if I hold my foot on the pedal to raise rpm a bit miss goes away.
Each cylinder is logging misfire counts with no rhyme or reason. The only thing odd during the timing job was 4 spark plugs were partially loose.
I'm sure the timing is correct; I used the OTC crank tool and for timing kit. Truck has 150k, front 02s are fairly new...
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I have a 2005 f150 5.4 3 valve with the p0012 code the truck runs good has a rough idle not sure if it is worth changing the vct or not the truck has 190000 miles....
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So I bought a 2006 F150 stx reg cab with the 4.6l motor with 90k miles on it a few weeks ago. It was in really good condition and I couldn't pass the deal up. All in all, I love this truck. However at idle the truck is a bit rough. No check engine light, but a bit rough non the less. So I hooked up my obd2 torque app and I see I have anywhere between 6 and 60 total counted misfires, but none detected by individual cylinder. So I ran a scan and have a B1360 code without the CEL on. So I changed the plugs and coil packs and cleaned the k&n filer (non cold air filter, just a replacement k&n) and I still have all the symptoms and the b136p code. So I Google the b1360 code and there's very little on it. Basically says open circuit ignition.
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My 2004 Rubicon has been having some idling issues. It idles kind of rough (+- 200 RPM) and is hard to start. I tried to start it recently and after 4 cranks, it started then the CEL came on, and has been on ever since. I have recently moved from Washington state to Houston Texas, and the problem starterd here in Texas. I checked the code and am getting a P0505 code. I had a mechanic replace the IAC valve, Checked for vacuum leaks, and cleaned the throttle body. The mechanic says the output from the main computer appears to have burned out, and needs to replace the main computer(for $1000). The mechanic can clear the CEL, but after turning the jeep off then back on it reappears. The mechanic says he verified the computer was the problem by installing a known good computer and it cleared the problem. Does this sound right to you? If my computer is bad, wouldn't my whole operation be affected?
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My 04 F150 has started having a rough idle. While in park the engine will stall out with the A/C off. Also when in drive the truck will idle close to 1000rpm's. I had to the fuel filter cleaned and also the MAF sensor cleaned. Also did a vacuum check on it. Pulled the code and it's throwing a Lean Code. What else should I be looking for?
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2005 f150 5.4.
I have a slightly rough idle and can feel a miss at 1600 to 2000 RPM. Sometimes running about 65 MPH up a slight grade I can slowly press the gas pedal and the engine will begin to miss much worse, causing the truck to shake pretty bad. When it gets this bad it will slowly flash the CEL and I get a P0306 code (Cyl 6 missfire).
The truck has 148000 Miles on it and the plugs were replaced at approx 120000 by the dealer.
In the last week I have replaced the plug in cylinder 6 (looked ok) and have replaced all the COP's along with the fuel filter and the injector on #6.
I haven't been able to get it flash the CEL light or throw a code since replacing the COPs though and I am at a loss at to what to try next.
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2004 F150 5.4 3v. I bought the truck with 102k on it, it now has 124k. In the morning, when the outside temp is between 30-50, the engine starts and runs fine. When I get to the first red light ( about 1 mile away) within seconds of the engine at idle, engine starts to run rough and CEL. Every time the code is p0351. If I let it sit in the driveway to full warm up... no problem. If I start the truck, shut it off and restart...no problem. It only happens at the cooler temps. I have changed plugs, used motorcraft, nickel antiseize, torqued, etc. Ford changed the coil, I have changed the coil, cleaned MAF. As soon as I cross the intersection, light stays on, rough running clears up, and runs like a champ for the rest of the day.
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Have an 06 F150 5.4 3v with no power. spark knock. rough idle. wants to die while driving, and random misfire code. Have replaced fuel pump, filter, coils and plugs. What to check next? Already thought of EGR - it doesn't have one.
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2005 f150 Lariat 4x4 5.4
Had phasers, tensioners, chains, guides, and sensors replaced. After driving the truck, it started to get a rough idle at low speeds, primarily in reverse. Changed both vct solenoids with no results. Started to get p0022 code. Changed the oil with motorcraft filter and 5w-20 twice after the work had been done, thinking it might need it. Vct's were a little varnished, but not too bad.
After a couple days of light driving, got a misfire on #3. Replaced the coil and it hasn't been back since. I am stumped at this point.
The computer show the timing to be at +13 when sitting stopped and in drive. It fluctuates a little, but not much. When the truck goes into a rough idle. The rpm's fluctuate wildly. It seems to be happening more frequently, the more I drive it.
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