TrailBlazer :: 2004 - Odometer And DIC Won't Light
Aug 30, 2012
I have a 2004 Trailblazer. The odometer and DIC won't light. I pulled the cluster and check all solder connections. (I'm pretty good with that stuff). I flexed the board.. tugged, pulled and tapped... Nothing...
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This is regarding a 2008 F150 - STX. The light that illuminates the odometer is out. I saw the procedure to get to it on Alldata and it looks pretty easy. Next I went to the bulb chart in the user's manual and it said, for any instrument lamp replacement, see the dealer.
I called my local dealer and he said that they were some special kind of bulb but that he was out of stock. I know they can usually get these things quickly but I figured that auto parts stores would have them. It appears I was wrong. I looked on Autozone's web p-age and they show every bulb.... except instrument panel bulbs.
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My friend has a 2004 Trailblazer with a 4.2. He was driving it a few days ago and the check engine light came on and it would not run pass 15 miles per hour. He turned the truck off and re-started it. The light went off and the problem went away. The scan tool came up with an old code that that throttle body sensor was bad or the throttle body needed cleaned. We cleaned the throttle body and ran it and it ran fine. Now here is the problem. When the heater is on and the truck is at idle, the truck will idle at 2000 rpm, then kick back to normal then kick back to 2000 rpm and then keep repating this issue. If we shut the heat off, the truck idles fine.
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Odometer light on my 07 f150 was coming on and off,read the thread here on how to change bulb. Got that done no problem but the odometer is now blank. Read the thread saying it was a common issue and to look for a bad or broken soder. My problem is i can't figure out how to get the circuit board off of the cluster after i pull off all the bulbs and screws. My local ford service dept wants to replace entire cluster at a hefty price.
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As the title states, my odometer back light works just fine, but nothing displays on it. No mileage reading, no nothing. How to fix it? Found plenty about fixing the back light, but can't find anything similar to this issue.
I've had the battery off for 30-40 minutes and the issue persists after restarting.
2004 F150 XLT SuperCab 5.4L
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My gf has a 2007 F-150 XLT Scab 5.4 2x4 and ever since she got the truck (bought used) the odometer back light has never worked. I know it was a common problem with the previous generation trucks to have a bad solder joint to cause this. I'm assuming that with these newer trucks the back light is LED, so chances are the bulbs are fine.
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My 2005 STX 4x4 was running fine until yesterday, then on my way home I lost all forward power. The odometer displayed TRANS FAULT and the O/D OFF light was blinking. Limped home.... Today I checked the fluid level and it was a little high, so I ciphoned some out. I read a lot of posts about the same problem which lead me to my local autozone to have them put a code reader on it. Unlike all of the other posts, NO codes came up.
According to the scanner, my truck is fine. I was hoping to get some kind of "P" code to target the problem, but no such luck. I checked all the fuses and they are fine. What should I do now? I don't really want to take it to the dealer, fearing that they will automatically say I need a new tranny without checking everything else first.
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I've read through my manual, but can't find anything on how to actually lock the odometer at zero when I don't need it. Trip A is set to my oil change mileage and I just want Trip B to be off or at zero. 2012 F150 XL SBRC, 5.0 V8 4x4, 3.55 gears....
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I have a 1997 f150 4.6L 4x4 Standard Transmission and today I hopped in it to go to work, and the Speedo, Trip Odometer, and Odometer all are not working.
This is the first time it has happened to me, what could cause this or have a problem similar to this and know how to fix it?
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I am a grad student hoping my car will hang in there till graduation next year. I have about 227,000 miles on my Honda Accord Wagon and recently the odometer stopped working, S light started flashing, and the check engine light came on. This only happens sometimes, and the check engine light does not always come on when the S light flashes and odometer stops working. I've continued driving the car to see what happens and so far, no problems have come up. I have driven another 1000 miles and am hoping I can just ignore the problem and continue driving the vehicle since I am not in a position to fix it or get a new car.
Recently I passed my California emissions test and she seems to be running smooth. Any thoughts or warnings as to why sometimes these signals happen?
I have to drive with GPS on all the time to know my speed, but other than that I feel OK.
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The daughter calls and says her '06 Trailbazers oil gauge goes to zero and then the oil warning light comes on. The gauge then comes back up in pressure and the oil warning light goes out. No engine noise according to her. Oil changed a month ago.
This happened several times yesterday on her trip to town but then started working normally and didn't act up again. This sounds kinda like a sending unit issue except for the intermittent part. Maybe the wire to the sending unit?
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SYMPTOM : 04 Trailblazer had intermittent A/C clutch engagement with the A/C system fully charged (showed about 80lbs on low side with engine off)...
SOLUTION : Three wire plug that plugs into the A/C pump has a bad connection on middle pin. I chased the middle wire with a pick and pushed firmly, the A/C pump kicked in, and out when I released pressure.
Testing the Harnass side: with relay #44 crossed (pins 30 & 87), with vehicle on or off, and the plug attached, you should have 12V+ at dark green (middle wire), you should have a ground on the black or brown wire, and you should have approx. 5v+ on the Lt Green or yellow wire.
Testing the clutch side: (harnass unplugged)
Black to red 3.7 ohms.
Black to other red 3.7 ohms.
red to red .01 ohms (fully closed circuit)
- If red to red open circuit, you have a bad switch on the compressor body---replace compressor.
- If red to black open circuit, you have a failed electromagnet in your clutch, relace clutch.
- If compressor side tests good, and you are missing 5v+ on harnass side, you have a bad connection.
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I have a 2004 Trailblazer, and just recently the A/C just stop blowing. I have checked to relays and fuses and all are fine, I even checked the fan motor relay thinking that would work. I am at a lost right now and have no clue what else to check.
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2004 TB EXT. Replaced pads on all 4, installed new hardware kits front & rear, the anti-rattle clips even had the deluxe black coating on the back (mounting) surface to reduce noise. Occasionally squeaks under light braking at low speeds, such as approaching a stop. About 1 out of 4 stops it does this. Semi-Metallic pads. Irritating noise. Never had this happen before, put same brand & style of pads on my truck, no noise.
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I recently bought a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer LS EXT 4.2l 6cyl with about 129k miles on it. The vehicle is excellent condition and has no leaks on the engine or transmission. I took it for a test drive before buying for about 20min and no issues with it shift or rough idling.
After having the SUV for about a week, I noticed that it has a slight rough idle at red lights and gets a little worse when the AC is on. Twice now in the past week the SUV begins to sputter at the red light and then shuts off. It doesn't do this every time and I have noticed it happens more when the fuel gauge is in between the quarter tank E line. My father in-law is having a similar issue with his 2003 Trailblazer, same engine and make and model.
I should also mention that no check engine light comes on or leave an ERR code.
Throttle body needs to be cleaned: We have done this on my father in-laws and didn't fix the issue.
Replaced the spark plugs: didn't solve the issue
Read that it could possibly be the APPS sensor under the gas pedal: Haven't replaced this yet
Tighten or replace gas cap: Have done this, didn't fix
Have the idle reprogrammed: Have not done yet.
Could possibly be a fuel pump issue.
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I have a 2004 TB that won't start. I pulled out my hvac b fuse to reset that system and now my car won't start.
The lights come on but don't dim, the 4WD indicators don't come on and all I hear is a high pitch sound and nothing else. I don't hear a crank. I don't know where to start looking for a solution.
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I have been battling this for some time. The check engine light comes after a period of time from reset. I have changed the thermostat, temp sensor, coolant flush and added per MFG.
I am down to clutch fan. The temp gauge sits right at 210.
From what I can tell is the check engine light comes on because the engine reaches operating temp to SLOWLY. Im guessing because the clutch fan is spinning to early in the game.
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I have a 2004 chevy trailblazer LS EXT, the passenger side low beam has gone out, I have replaced the bulb and it still doesn't come on.. The fuse looks just fine to I have switched it with a new fuse and it still doesn't come on.. I don't know what else it could be?
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I have been recently got an offer to move to OH from Toronto, Canada. One of the criteria to import my car to the US is to have my 2008 Prius Odometer from KM to Miles.
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I have a '99 durango with ~45000 miles. Recently it has been breaking down on me. I feel it lose power until it dies all together. After about 20 minutes it will start again. This has happened 5 times. When it happened today, I was going about 30 mph, when I felt it lose power. The speedometer went to '0" - the 'check engine light came on', the 'fuel pump' light came on (like it does when you run out of gas), then I had this odd message on the odometer that said "NO BUS".
This time I had it towed w/o trying to crank it with the hopes they can get a code. I told them about the "no bus" message but they did not seem to know anything about it. I have found this mentioned on a few bulletins boards but not with much info.
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The light for the odometer in my 05 Santa Fe has gone out. Every other light and the dimmer switch work fine as do the taillights. What do I have to do to replace the bulb?
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