TrailBlazer :: 2004 Chevy Won't Start - 4WD Indicators Don't Come On
Jun 5, 2016
I have a 2004 TB that won't start. I pulled out my hvac b fuse to reset that system and now my car won't start.
The lights come on but don't dim, the 4WD indicators don't come on and all I hear is a high pitch sound and nothing else. I don't hear a crank. I don't know where to start looking for a solution.
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I have a 2004 chevy trailblazer LS EXT, the passenger side low beam has gone out, I have replaced the bulb and it still doesn't come on.. The fuse looks just fine to I have switched it with a new fuse and it still doesn't come on.. I don't know what else it could be?
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I have a 2002 chevy Trailblazer that when you put it into drive there is a vibration.It does not do this in park or neutral. I have checked the engine mounts and transmission mount, and they look good. The vehicle has a little over 118,000 miles on it and the engine runs and drives great except for this vibration that i do not know where it id coming from. What may be my problem?
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2007 - I went out to start it and every light imaginable turned on. Fuel gauge and all gear indicators were lit and blinking. Headlights work. Is this a battery problem or something more major? It is the middle of winter where I live. It won't start up at all.
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Chevy trailblazer 2007
Between 1,000 and 2,000 rpm (only 20% of the time) I hear, and feel, a clunk that seems to emanate somewhere near / behind the driver seat. The error code (an 834 ? possibly but I forget exactly...but def in the 800 series) says " transmission component slipping".
Trans oil full, and clear.
The clunk sound happens on any terrain, and is very random. And going up-hill does not bring it on. The clunk's been happening for about 2,000 miles.
The orig transmission was replaced 15,000 miles ago.With a used one. Total mileage on car now 75,000.
Mechanics give varied explanations, and prognoses (none are good) but no one knows what's going on for sure.
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On highway, at higher speeds (50-70), I notice that the vehicle's acceleration will pause and the rpms will bounce a bit. Best description I can give is that it feels as if someone were constantly pinching and releasing the gas line. Short revvv...revvv...revvv. The vehicle doesn't lose power. I get where I am going. And it only occurs up at these higher speeds.
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new (3000 miles) 2013 model dead in the water. will not start. have tried both keys. Wife can't remember if she might have left lights on last nite..but that shouldn't happen..with automatic off feature..right? Walks like..quacks like battery tho. When first trying to start..wipers were in on position..and they did go on..very slowly. Turn indicators only activity on the screen.
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10 seconds after turning on the ignition key, all the indicators on the dash will turn off, except that the low engine oil and high anti-freeze temperature light keep flashing. The emergency signal will be on but not flashing. The car refuses to start.
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When I got in my car to drive home from work, I had 3 warning indicators: a ! inside a circle with parentheses around it (in yellow); a picture of an engine with the word 'engine' underneath; and a ! Inside a triangle in red. What do these mean? The manual only says "take vehicle to Toyota dealer".
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05 RX330 AWD, which we use only 2-3 times a week. All of a sudden, the dash lights up with low tire pressure, ABS, and 2 other lights. What could that be?
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Ok wife's car '07, complained her dash indicator lamps were flashing on then off for a second a once or twice in a few days, then triangle of death for a second, then all goes away. Her ABS light came on. This last time it did its flashing thing then the SRS light came on. First thing that came to mind was 12v battery. I threw the TechStream on and ran some tests. Saw 4 codes, B1801, B1811, B1421 C1241. Checked voltage at the battery, it was 12.41v with car off. Negative terminal was very loose and had a little corrosion. Cleaned it, tightened it and ran tests again. No tests came up for the SRS as it said "no response", so I am not sure how to test the system.
My concern is this is the second time the SRS B1801 and B1811 codes have come up (Open connection in D squib 2nd step). The first time I went through, replaced the steering wheel clock spring and checked connector wiring, checked the driver's side seatbelt wiring and replaced the side airbag/seatbelt ass'y. Then I sent in the SRS module to be cleared/reset. I wasn't about to mess with the Steering bag, so I didn't test it. Car was fine for 2 months, then it has reappeared. Did this bad battery connection cause this? What am I missing?? What is next?
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have an issue with my 03 trailblazer. i have the problem of no start when key turned to start position. actually nothing happens when the key is turned to start position. dash comes on when key is turned to on pos tho. took battery off and had it tested and it is at full charge. took starter off and had it tested and it passed. checked ignition relay cavities per this youtube video "Chevy Trailblazer no crank testing and information" and there is no light when touching the ground request cavity and turning the key to start position.
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I have a 2002 trailblazer that will start fine in the morning and after it sits for an hour or two, but once i start it and run it for over ten minutes and i shut it off when i try to re-start it, it will crank but won't start. the dealer cleaned the throttle body and injectors, check the fuel pump for presure and it was fine,and they got no error codes?????? I've read that in can be the ignition switch??
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I have a 2005 v-6 and when I first start my car, its makes a real high pitch whining sound that will last for about 10 sec. before it starts to whine down.Then after that, its ok. It will not make any noise after that when I start it unless it sits for any length of time (6 to 8 hrs.) What might be the problem and If Its something I could fix myself?
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My 2007 TrailBlazer with 84K stumbles for 25 seconds when I start up cold. After 25 seconds I hear a click and then it runs perfect. No engine codes present. Have new plugs, new O2 sensor, new thermostat.
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I've 2007 Chevrolet Trailblazer, around a month ago the front Windshield Wipers started to start on their own, when I got the car checked the technician told me that I've to replace the Windshield Wiper Motor, I wonder if this is correct? and what would make the motor to starts on its own?
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I have an '06 trailblazer with the 5.3 engine. When it's cold outside Freezing and below. The engine will start. Run for three seconds. And shutdown. Pass lock light stays solid. The engine won't crank for about a minute. And it'll do the same thing. If it's about 40 or above. No problems.
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I have a 2004 Chevrolet Trailblazer. Recently, I had to replace the fuel pump. Prior to that it had a gasoline smell and sometimes hesitated to start, like air was getting into the fuel lines. After I replaced the fuel pump, it was fine for about a week. Now, it hesitates to start like before I replaced the fuel pump. By this, I am saying that it cranks over (so no starter or battery issues), but takes excessively long to fire up. Once it is running, it runs nice (not rough) and without hesitation on acceleration. I suspect a vacuum leak.
Today, the cruise control no longer works, as in it will not engage when I depress the on/off button on the turn signal lever arm. I suspected a fuse may have blown, but cannot locate a fuse labeled 'cruise control' anywhere on the vehicle.
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I have a 2003 chevy venture...yesterday I went to start it and it acted like the battery was dead, but it still started. Then today, it wouldn't start at all. So I jumped it and it started. Took it to the store, and it wouldn't start again. So once again had to jump it. I brought it home and let it run for like 30 minutes. I went back out there and on the little screen it was saying security...turned it off and it wouldn't start again. But this time there was no clicking or anything.
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I have a 2004 Trailblazer. The odometer and DIC won't light. I pulled the cluster and check all solder connections. (I'm pretty good with that stuff). I flexed the board.. tugged, pulled and tapped... Nothing...
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SYMPTOM : 04 Trailblazer had intermittent A/C clutch engagement with the A/C system fully charged (showed about 80lbs on low side with engine off)...
SOLUTION : Three wire plug that plugs into the A/C pump has a bad connection on middle pin. I chased the middle wire with a pick and pushed firmly, the A/C pump kicked in, and out when I released pressure.
Testing the Harnass side: with relay #44 crossed (pins 30 & 87), with vehicle on or off, and the plug attached, you should have 12V+ at dark green (middle wire), you should have a ground on the black or brown wire, and you should have approx. 5v+ on the Lt Green or yellow wire.
Testing the clutch side: (harnass unplugged)
Black to red 3.7 ohms.
Black to other red 3.7 ohms.
red to red .01 ohms (fully closed circuit)
- If red to red open circuit, you have a bad switch on the compressor body---replace compressor.
- If red to black open circuit, you have a failed electromagnet in your clutch, relace clutch.
- If compressor side tests good, and you are missing 5v+ on harnass side, you have a bad connection.
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