I have a 2004 Trailblazer, and just recently the A/C just stop blowing. I have checked to relays and fuses and all are fine, I even checked the fan motor relay thinking that would work. I am at a lost right now and have no clue what else to check.
View 8 Replies2004 Trailblazer 6cy. 2WD - has been experiencing a very rough idle, engine shudders - no matter how long it's been warmed up. Wants to stall off red lights and at very low speeds. Not throwing any lights yet - but the speedo is out ( a cam shift typical problem for this car) so I don't trust the console for lights. Worse when the heat or air is on. Rides fine with more gas/higher speeds. Definitely worse in colder temps but continues even after 40-50 mins of driving. I've heard a number of things, but can't afford to fix them all. I've heard plugs, dirty throttle camshaft, sensors, cam actuator solenoid, etc. All seem to have people who said it fixed and didn't fix the issue. Worried I'm going to stall pulling off a stop and rear end someone any day now. Where do I start!?
View 2 RepliesThe fan for the AC started blowing at high the other day when it was first started which is normal when its hot out. But after a few seconds it slowed then picked up, them slowed, the picked up. Just like it was confused.
I turned it off and then back to AUTO and it was OK again. This happened twice now in the last three days when it was hot out. Today the fan would not start until I turned it off and on a few times. Blower, blower resistor, AC dash control.
'02 TB w/ auto climate control.
my AC is only blowing through the defrost and the floor - It's a cool 101 degrees here today!!
We have changed out the battery, the actuator on the passenger AND driver side, as well as pulling the HVAC fuse from the fuse box under the rear seat - none of this has worked!
So I can't figure out what is causing my a/c to randomly stop working,it's not leaking or freezing up and it's not the clutch or fuse and so on. What it does is basically it transitions from cool humidity free air to warmer humid air It's been in two different shops and produces no error messages either,however when it does it if you turn the car off and start it again it starts working fine. I've been going crazy trying to figure out what it is!
View 19 RepliesMy daughter's 2004 F150 has a horn problem. She used it the other day and it would not stop blowing. Someone unplugged it for her. When I checked it out and re-plugged it in it still continues to blow. Question is where do I begin. Does this have a horn relay? Do I have to remove the air bag to access the connections under the pad? I own a 1985 F150 and mine is much simpler.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2004 Sebring. The A/C had been working intermittently, now not at all. When it was working, if I went over a big bump or hit a pothole, it would stop blowing cold. Now it will not blow cold through the dash vents, but the defroster still blows cold so I believe there is enough coolant. The mechanic has discouraged me from investigating saying it will be very expensive to take the car apart to diagnose.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 4.2 with 89k 4wd. The brake pedal occasionally goes farther towards the floor when coming to the end of a stop. I have bled the brake lines. All brake pads, rotors, and lines are good. Could it still be air in the lines?
View 13 RepliesRecently had my brakes/rotors replaced on my 2008 chevy trailblazer. the problem is when slowing down to almost stopping the brakes sound like when you stop on ice and the ABS applies..The vehicle stops..but concerned what that feeling and noise is..After applying the gas it sounds like something is stuck? Occasionally my traction control light goes on?
View 9 RepliesMy 2006 F150 was purchased by me in early 2009 with about 28,000 miles on it. It's an XLT crew cab 4X4 with the 5.4. Stock except for a leveling kit and an aftermarket head unit. It currently has about 59,000 miles and has been babied since I purchased it. About 3 years ago I started noting some issues:
A. Oil pressure dummy gauge is all over the place. Some times it will show no oil pressure. Other times it is all the way to the highest mark. Other times the needle has gone 180 degrees past where normal is and is actualy pointing straight down towards the floor.
B. Recently my alternator dummy gauge has started doing the same thing as my oil pressure gauge.
C. The backlight behind my odometer works intermittently, but mostly not at all.
D. My dome light will flicker when first turned on. It doesn't matter which door is opened or if the override switch it turned on. It takes several seconds to come on and will flicker like there is a poor connection somewhere, but stays on once its on.
E. Blower fan will occasionally stop blowing. Once the climate control switch is turned to off, then back to on it resumes working. This doesn't happen often, but does occasionally.
Fortunately, the truck has not left me stranded and I want to keep it that way. We are getting ready to sale my wife's Toyota and this will become her daily driver. I want to take care of any issues before she starts driving it. Are these all separate issues or is there one common issue which could be causing them all?
I have a 2004 Trailblazer. The odometer and DIC won't light. I pulled the cluster and check all solder connections. (I'm pretty good with that stuff). I flexed the board.. tugged, pulled and tapped... Nothing...
View 1 RepliesSYMPTOM : 04 Trailblazer had intermittent A/C clutch engagement with the A/C system fully charged (showed about 80lbs on low side with engine off)...
SOLUTION : Three wire plug that plugs into the A/C pump has a bad connection on middle pin. I chased the middle wire with a pick and pushed firmly, the A/C pump kicked in, and out when I released pressure.
Testing the Harnass side: with relay #44 crossed (pins 30 & 87), with vehicle on or off, and the plug attached, you should have 12V+ at dark green (middle wire), you should have a ground on the black or brown wire, and you should have approx. 5v+ on the Lt Green or yellow wire.
Testing the clutch side: (harnass unplugged)
Black to red 3.7 ohms.
Black to other red 3.7 ohms.
red to red .01 ohms (fully closed circuit)
- If red to red open circuit, you have a bad switch on the compressor body---replace compressor.
- If red to black open circuit, you have a failed electromagnet in your clutch, relace clutch.
- If compressor side tests good, and you are missing 5v+ on harnass side, you have a bad connection.
I have a 2004 TB that won't start. I pulled out my hvac b fuse to reset that system and now my car won't start.
The lights come on but don't dim, the 4WD indicators don't come on and all I hear is a high pitch sound and nothing else. I don't hear a crank. I don't know where to start looking for a solution.
I have a 2004 chevy trailblazer LS EXT, the passenger side low beam has gone out, I have replaced the bulb and it still doesn't come on.. The fuse looks just fine to I have switched it with a new fuse and it still doesn't come on.. I don't know what else it could be?
View 1 RepliesMy brother-in-law brought me his 2004 Trailblazer that had an extremely rough idle and would die if ya thought about the air conditioner and all! So he had replaced the cam sensor, didn't work. He replaced the spark plugs didn't work. He replaced the fuel filter didn't work. So he asked me about it and ran across a fella talking about the CAM ACTUATOR SOLENOID and explained all about what to look for and such and low and behold new solenoid later purrs like a new one!!! It is look right above the power steering pump there is a plug in the side of the engine there with electric wires running to it.
One of the signs of being bad is oil inside that 2 wire plug just pull it off and look in it. Now to remove it you will have to take the power steering pump loose so it will move back out of the way so you can pull the solenoid out of the engine if ya get it out look on the end there are grooves running around it with little screens on them see if any are gone or coming apart, this usually sets a P0016 code which is stuff interfering with the sensors inside. If there is any oil in the plug or any screens missing then it will have to be replaced.
I have a 2004 Chevy Trailblazer that looses acceleration. If I have the cruise control on it will the speed will decrease and then accelerate on level pavement. At idle the car runs fine. Could this be a fuel filter problem, an air flow problem or something else? Also the service light is on. I had it checked and the technician told me that the oxygen sensor on the exhaust needed to be replaced. I did that and the light is still on.
View 1 RepliesMy wife has a 04 chevy trailblazer ltd with 4wd. I have a couple of questions "service 4wd" comes on seems stuck in 4wd has moaning noise over 20mph moaning goes away when turning has grinding noise coming from front and sometimes a clanking noise that doesn't sound like something heavy but not very light either...
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 Chevy trailblazer. I got in to got o the store the other day and realized that my rear door speakers were not working. I checked fuses and none were blown. I have a line out splitter attached to the rear speaker wires behind the stock radio for my subs. My subs are still pumping, so that tells me that the radio is putting out signal to those rear speaker wires, but still nothing from each of the rear doors. I am curious if there is a simpler way to fix this aside from taking the rear doors apart to check the speakers. is it possible the radio is shot? what are the chances that both door speakers blew at the same time?
View 4 RepliesMy friend has a 2004 Trailblazer with a 4.2. He was driving it a few days ago and the check engine light came on and it would not run pass 15 miles per hour. He turned the truck off and re-started it. The light went off and the problem went away. The scan tool came up with an old code that that throttle body sensor was bad or the throttle body needed cleaned. We cleaned the throttle body and ran it and it ran fine. Now here is the problem. When the heater is on and the truck is at idle, the truck will idle at 2000 rpm, then kick back to normal then kick back to 2000 rpm and then keep repating this issue. If we shut the heat off, the truck idles fine.
View 5 RepliesThis make and model is the same as a Chevy Trailblazer. It has 124K miles on it, when it's cruising, there is no weird noise from the engine, but when I give it gas at any speed, there is a distinct sound coming from the rear of the engine. It sounds like when you put a playing card on your bike and the spokes hit it, but faster. The more gas, the louder the sound. It's gotten progressively worse lately. My first thought was rattling valves, but I'm not sure. It also sounds like a hole in a vacuum hose or something. With the hood up and an ear to the engine, the sound is definitely coming from the engine, not around it, and toward the rear.
View 2 RepliesMy '98 Buick's AC works well when I take it to a mechanic. But when I leave after they say, 'it seems fine now,' a few miles later the cold air starts blowing through the defroster vents, still nice and cold. Then it comes back down to the dash and then goes back up to the defrost. But sometimes it stops blowing altogether, it doesn't blow anywhere! Nothing, not even warm air. And then later everything is fine again, until it happens all over again and I take it to another shop when I hear 'it seems fine now.'.
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