When I turn the engine off on my Trailblazer, there is a fan under the dash that continues to run. It sounds like the blower fan. I ended up having to pull the number 34 fuse out to make it stop. This fuse is labeled as "Ignition A". If I pull the #35 fuse, which is for the blower fan, it doesn't stop it. Is there something else besides a blower fan under the dash making this noise and why?
View 11 RepliesMy car makes a ticking noise as soon as I turn the key to the 'on' position. The ticking continues once the engine begins running and stops shortly afterward (maybe 10 - 15 seconds). I'll attach a video of the ticking after the car is already running. I've checked the service light. It is the catalytic converter. I'm pretty sure this is a separate problem, but am not sure what is causing it.
View 3 Replies'02 TB; 120,000 miles. When I have our TB running the dash lights will come on and the guages will go to zero. Then they will go off and the gauges will return to normal and back again. It acts like the key was shut off though it wasn't. The engine is still running. Now, after reading several posts here I'm thinking the ignition switch is bad. Is there a way to check the ignition switch before I buy a new one?
View 13 RepliesOK simple question, when I coat to stop using B why does ICE continue to run instead of turning off? If I move lever to D then ICE shut right down. Other than as a reminder "Shift the lever, dummy", why would/should ICE continue to run in B but not D when stopped (assuming battery does not need recharge)?
View 12 RepliesBasically the car LS 2003 V8 had an issue with the thermostat....this was necessary be changed after 50 miles of drive the car....in the last 4 miles the temperature increased in a short period time to the high limit...with the protective system the car was turn off.....one time with the mechanical service the follow items was changed: thermostat, radiator, coolant temperature sensor, water pump, plastic joint parts (housings), head seals, coolant and the 2 caps (radiator & coolant tank), this last was damaged by the pressure during the over heating.
After all parts changed I still continue having in the car the high temperature in 8-10 minutes of continue engine operation, after this period time the car turn off automatically by the safety system.
I need information about the coolant flow in the system, the pump pulley rotation, the belt installation, the manner and values to test the old temperature sensor, auxiliary pump and the current CTS (cylinder temperature sensor).
The fan motor is working good, none coolant leak is present, and I already test without thermostat (none change in the result).
2001 F150 5.4 4x4 148K... I recently replaced the intake manifold on this truck and when the engine revs it wants to continue at high RPMs for about 10 seconds after letting off the throttle. When driving, it almost wants to go faster and the gas mileage is really bad. Had some codes come up and took it to AZO and had them checked. P0171 & P0174. Guess I need to do some testing on the MAF and injectors.
View 2 RepliesHaving trouble turning my wheel both ways on my trail blazer. Just replaced wheel bearings on truck not sure what would causing this. Also tries are wearing down..
View 6 RepliesI'm having starter issues with my santa fe. After changing the battery and doing some trouble-shooting I narrowed my problem down to one of the relays in the engine compartment.
Almost every morning when I go to start my car the dash lights are dead and the engine wont turn over. I smack a bit on the relays it will start up and until today keep running for the rest of the day.
Tonight it stalled on me in traffic and I got to experience the enjoyment of smacking my relays on the highway. I am thinking either moisture or a faulty relay with intermittent signals might be the culprit.
OK, I have looked everywhere I can think to look and can't fined anything on this. Dash lights how do you turn them off with the engine running. This is on a 2012 f150 xlt.
View 4 RepliesWhile driving to work this morning my I4 shook hard, the dash dinged twice, the heater blower went off, and the dash lights either went dim or off. Just as the engine about hit its last revolution, it fired itself right back up and off I went.
The car had been driven for at least 45 minutes, it has 3/4 tank of gas, it was 21 degrees outside, and I was at a complete stop with my foot on the break. When it died I immediately put it in park but it restarted itself. I drove the rest of the way to the office and drove an hour home tonight without incident. When the car went down I noticed that the "miles since start" on my dash display went to zero. To me that sounds like an electrical shutdown. I do have a new battery too, it's less than a year old and the terminals are clean.
This car had 147,000 miles on it but only 50,000 miles on a rebuilt engine.
Recently I had the dash lights, A/C blower, electric windows all shut down while driving. The car still drove ok, but nothing worked on the instrument panel, electric windows. After parking it overnight at home, all seemed fine except for a message saying the airbag needs servicing. What could cause this?
View 3 RepliesJust had our '04 Odyssey with 162K miles to the Honda dealer to have some maintenance work done. Had cabin filter replaced for first time. Out of the service area, I started the engine fine, turned on heat/a-c, adjusting fan speed to high. There's a pronounced hummer noise coming from under the dash near the blower. It's a constant hum, not something associated with some debris that may have been dislodged or floated down into the blower area. The "pitch" of the hum increases/decreases with the blower fan speed. Service personnel came out, to include the manager, and they exposed the area where the filter was replaced; nothing out of place or loose.
Told me I could schedule another appointment to have them clean out the area inside where the filter and blower are located. Told them that service should be provided as a part of the filter replacement if it could be a concern. Although I'm not a car-savvy person, I'm thinking the problem is due to replacing the cabin filter: new filter, increased air flow (and there is a substantial increase of airflow out of the dash ducts) to the fan blower -- which as been operated with a dirty filter for probably a lot of miles and it has "worn" just right, that the increase in airflow is causing the hum. Fan blower spinning faster causing the hum?
2010 F350 DRW King Ranch CC
Blower is not working, but LED fan speed on dash shows it is. I've check all fuses and they are okay. This is dual-climate control, and neither works.
tried the ac for the first time and condenser turned on for only 3-4 seconds and shut off . then turned on after 3-4 seconds and turned off again. no cold air . I bypassed the low pressure switch with a wire in the connector that plugs in to the switch and the condenser ran continuously. my question is .....does the accumulator hiss after the engine is shut off with the ac on? I did remove the pressure switch and heard a little 'psssst'. there was a coating of oil on the o-ring . I screwed the switch back on . Seems like there was pressure in the accumulator. just wondering if the hissing after shutoff was normal. No signs of leakage anywhere. Maybe need a recharge after pressure test?
View 4 RepliesI have a problem that's sprung up all of a sudden and I wanted to run it by you before taking it in to VW. For the past three days or so the blower on my Phaeton's HVAC has been unresponsive to my control, staying on its highest setting permanently, even when I turn off the car.
This of course means that overnight power management takes over and when I get to the car in the morning I have to unlock it with the physical key, the clock has to be reset and I get all kinds of warnings about level fault and system fault. These warnings go away immediately as the car powers up, and everything is back to normal except for the fan.
I've tried resetting all settings on the control unit, but since the fan stays on even when the car is off, I feel like it's not software? The rest of the HVAC settings seem to work fine- I can toggle the vents and change the temperature, just not the blower speed.
My '04 Phaeton was towed Nov. 24 - completely dead, blower motor fan would not turn off...even powered OFF, with key out of the ignition! Both batteries were then drained, had to be replaced to diagnose...
Ended up being blower motor fan resistor. The tech said the ESP/ESC (?) light was "now on" where it was NOT on before all this. He did not run a diagnostics, not sure why. And not sure why service manager didn't mention it before I paid and checked out. :/
But NOW the car is doing some funky things.... upon start-up, whether pulling out in drive or backing out in reverse, the brakes (or SOMETHING ??) seem to be erratically grabbing, there is an awful grinding/scraping noise, the car jerks and stutters and hops, just for a few seconds, then something seems to "give"/"release" and the grinding and scraping and jumping stops and I roll on like normal. BUT the ESP light (that is now CONSTANTLY on), BLINKS/FLASHES when this grinding and stutter-stepping happens. It sounds awful, it feels awful, and it's making me nervous. Of course I contacted VW service immediately, and they're saying I can bring it back in to run diagnostics.
I know for a fact the car was completely dead, NOTHING worked, as both batteries were "fired" according to VW.....so nothing between the car dying and the batteries and blower motor being fixed transpired -- except the towing. And my guess is the had to DRAG it onto the flatbed in PARK b/c it would not take a charge at all to put in NEUTRAL.
Wife's 2002 model, 104,000 miles on vehicle, but recently developed a tat-tat-tat noise when first turning the key. Sounds electrical. What may be causing the noise?
View 7 RepliesI recently started having a problem with the air conditioning on my Axio. For some reason the blower refuses to turn off, even if the car is off. If i put on the A/C it blows at the highest speed, even if i try to low down the fan and its getting pretty annoying now!!
View 2 RepliesI'm new and have recently bought my first X. its a 2001 XLT with the 5.4. I really couldn't pass it up with the guy asking under 7K with 104,000 miles and not a rust bucket.
I discovered last night that my blower (at least front) continues to blow when key is out and off. I have played with the key to think its a switch but am not sure. Here's the other part, If I turn the selector to off before shutting the truck off it stays off BUT if i turn it on it will not go back off and stays on....
I have a 2004 Trailblazer LS with the 4.2L I6 and this problem just recently started and I found this video on youtube of someone having the exact same problem. [URL] ....
This noise is only there in reverse and drive. If you put it in park or neutral it goes away. Also goes away if you give it some throttle while in gear.
Sound coming from the engine and it is coming from the passengers side of the engine. The year is 2003, LS model, and four wheel drive. Well, I took it in yesterday and the mechanic said it was the "Camshaft" and this was a normal sound. Not to mention I have had this vehicle in for 6 other problems: 3 times for the four wheel drive light malfunctioning, 2 times for the service engine light coming on and then they had to replace a seal on the left front deferential because it was leaking oil.
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