TrailBlazer :: 06 Vehicle Quit Running Like It Ran Out Of Gas
Jul 21, 2014
The Trailblazer quit running like it ran out of gas. I had it towed and put a new fuel pump in it. When I try starting it, it acts like it isnt firing. It is also clicking over what looks like a carburetor next to the breather. It clicks really fast and keeps on till I turn the key off. I can see what I think is the coil packs and it is to the right of this. I have replaced the battery as well. The engine will turn over but wont fire.
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DRL quit working on my 2008 Avy.
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Found the problem with the growing sound in the front end on a 07 trailblazer had just replaced both tie rods, cv shafts, inner transfer case bearings and seals and tires still getting the growling sound thinking it could be wheel bearings but there $100 a piece.
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Is it possible to cause damage to a vehicle (2003?? Chevy Trailblazer) with an on-the-fly 2WD to 4AWD system by switching to 4AWD when the vehicle is in park or otherwise not driving forward? This was done by someone and now the vehicle is making a loud noise.
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04 trailblazer, 4.2. Running rough and SES light on. Had codes pulled and showed p0340 (CMP sensor circuit malfunction) and p0300 (Multiple engine misfire detected). Replaced the CMP sensor and left negative battery cable unhooked for 20 minutes or so to clear the codes. Upon start up no more SES light and idle was slightly better. Within seconds it SES was back and it is again running poorly. Cruise control is no longer functional as well.
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I have heard that it is the ign switch but I have changed it twice already whats my next step??
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I have a 96 Plymouth Voyager with 230,000 miles that will quit running doesn't matter if I'm going slow through a parking lot or on the interstate. When going slow like backing up or through a parking lot I put it in P and restart it. Sometimes the engine light comes on, sometimes not. When traveling on road or interstate I mash on the gas and it restarts with turning the key. Some days it happens a lot, some days it doesn't happen at all.
I took to shop and they replace the MAP sensor but the next day it did it again. I took it back and they put replaced it thinking it was just a bad sensor. It still didn't fix the problem so I took to another shop and left it there for a week so they could drive it hoping that it would happen for them but apparently it not. They did replace the ground wire in the wiring harness but two days later it quit running again as I was rolling down the interstate.
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My car just started over heating and I checked the fans and they are not running. I'm new to the VW family and although I love the way this car drives I've been baptized with quite a few problems.
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When the ignition is turn on, it does not turn over. After 45 minutes, it starts without a hickup. This has been going on for a few days.
This is a black Mazda6 V6 Sport edition. She has had one other problem in the past, where the whole car quit running while on the interstate at 65mph. She barely got it pulled over and it would not start. She had it towed but was able to start it once it was at the repair shop. The code mentioned a transmission issue, but didn't offer any clarity to the dealership mechanics. They never solved the problem, but that did not happen again.
I mention both of these because they may or may not be related. There has been several months between the issues.
There were burn marks on the starter, so the dealership replaced it, thinking that was the issue. $600 later, the symptoms remain. Its not the battery because it starts eventually. The codes on the computer were supposedly "random garble," so they have not done anything further and do not know how to fix it.
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Car drives excellent in dry weather, smooth, no hesitation. or misses. While driving in the rain, the car will start running "REAL" ruff and then will stall. I try to start it and the motor just turns over, sounds like no gas or not firing. I will keep trying and after about 6 times it will fire, start and quits, if lucky with a few more tries I can get it started and needs to rev up to 4,000, sometimes it will stay there with a miss or RPM works down and quits. When lucky I can nurse it home and then won't start for 3 days.
I have replaced Crankcase position sensor, (made shield for side at wheel well and shield on bottom), camshaft sensor, spark plugs and wires, had coil packs checked, checked plate that coil packs set on, cleaned battery posts, checked and pulled on wires to coil pack plate, none lose and had continuity, put silicone sealant at end of wires to protect from moisture and hold them in replace. Sprayed top of engine with silicone spray and flex seal. Even had intake manifold gasket replaced in case it was sucking in water. Replacing crankshaft position sensor did some good, it makes for faster starts.
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This morning I drove down to unlock my gate and got out of the truck while it was idling. When I got to the gate the truck just stopped running it did not sputter or anything it was like a light switch and just shut off. I got back in the truck and tried to start it but nothing happened starter did not engage at all or even try to run. I put a new battery in it knowing that is not the problem but it will just not start or even turn over.
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I have a 2001 Kia Sephia that quit running as I was driving down the road. The car has a little over 150,000 miles on it and was running fine prior to the incident. The car was responding fine and then suddenly acted as if it lost power and shut down as I was driving. I put a code scanner on the car and retrieved the following codes: 342, 460, and 713, which I understand are the camshaft sensor circuit low input, fuel level circuit malfunction, and transmission temperature circuit high input. Is this a computer that has failed or just all the sensors at once failing? If it is the computer, which one(s)? I was trying to do research and if I saw right, there are more than one ecm's now on cars.
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I used to get great MPG's in the beginning (>57 MPG in summer) that deteriorated as the engine started to run longer and more frequently after what I suspected to be a faint bump against a garage wall in the front. This was several months ago. I have since been averaging about 47 MPG overall (averaging winter, summer out). I forgot about the bump incident until last week when the engine suddenly started running shorter and less frequently. This lasted for a week or so, with no significant changes in the weather/temperature. And then inexplicably, it has started to run longer and more frequently again. By "more frequently", I mean when I bring ICE on, it doesn't easily quit, regardless of my prodding it to quit by going into regen momentarily. Also, the initial warmup is longer.
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Yesterday I replaced the battery in my 2013 F150. Since I did this, both running boards just stopped working. I checked the fuse, it is good. Is there a connector around the batter that I may have knocked loose?
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I'm working on a 2005 F350 with a 6.0. The customer was driving the truck when it suddenly quit running and now it won't start. The only code stored in the memory is P2290 - ICP too low. With my scanner connected the IPR is showing 85% duty cycle and the ICP is only showing 5 psi while cranking. I disconnected the ICP sensor while cranking but still no fire, so I removed it and connected a pressure gauge which shows zero psi while cranking. I hooked up a cylinder leakdown gauge to the ICP port and with 100 PSI of air pressure I'm showing less than 2% leakage with the IPR energized at 60% duty. Thinking the hpop was bad I replaced it but still no change. I also tried a new IPR but no luck there either. I removed the oil filter cartridge and verified the low pressure pump is pumping oil while cranking. Could the inlet screen be plugged inside the oil cooler? I'm at a complete loss.
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Traveling right now. Limited access to FTE.
On the way to the airport this morning at 4:30 am, the engine simply did while running down the interstate. Absolutely no symptoms leading up to it. Turns over fast but will not start. White smoke from tall pipe while trying to start.
I unplugged the fuel bowl heater and checked the IPR tin nut and the ICP sensor connections... Nothing obvious.
Problem was CPS and the engine is now running fine again.
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First off, vehicle is a 1993 Volvo 240, 5 speed with 131,000 miles
1) Temperature gauge is reading hot, but I believe it's running at a normal temperature. I read a few things discussing this issue. First off, a yellow wire that runs through the firewall becomes corroded (as do all Volvo wires of this age!) What exactly is this wire and what does it lead to? Could I just rerun that wire with possibly a thicker gauge? My dads an electrician so no worries with the wiring. More commonly, however; I read that the temperature compensation board fails and gives erratic readings! is this board expensive and how difficult is it to replace? I have experience with this dashboard because I rebuilt my odometer and installed a tachometer, that gives you my basic level of expertise.
2) My passenger side rear fog light won't work, a new bulb didn't fix the problem, what could it be?
3) My car shakes kind of vigorously while braking, especially at LOW speed!? I replaced front pads and rotors, what else could the problem be?
Volvo.jpg ( 2.19MB )
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I have a 2010 V6 Camry SE with only 80,000 original miles. This morning (3am) on High ran low on fuel. I was about 25 miles from a gas station running at ~75mph when low fuel light came on.
About 5 miles from the station I felt a barely perceptible, split second hesitation (like a miss) and then things continued to run fine. The Check Engine and Traction control lights lit a minute or so later.
I was able to make to gas station but had to be on fumes the last 5 miles.I gassed up and resumed trip - 200 more miles. Both lights stayed lit. Stopped twice more. Light stayed on.
Pulled into town this morning and went to Autozone. They scanned car and pulled P0015 camshaft code. To my knowledge the guy DID NOT reset code.
I got into car to drive away and CEL was out. Have start stopped twice more and drive ~50 more miles with no CEL. Is it likely this was caused by running low on fuel?
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I have a 1997 ford f150 V-6 4.2. My son was driving the truck on the expressway and it quit running. The toe truck has delivered the truck back to my house. The engine turns over but will not start. I shot gas into the engine with a spray bottle and the engine still would not start. Was going to check the coil for spark next. What to check first. Was thinking the problem could be the modulator or coil.
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I have a 2007 XLS, 2.3L Auto/AWD. About a month ago it quit running while driving, just shut off. When I tried to restart the dash made clicking noises, fuel pump grunt type noises, cluster stays in drive position even though floor shifter indicates I'm in park. Pulled a code P0606, replaced PCM. It started and ran for 20 minutes, made it about 1/4 mile up the road, shut off again. Now I can't pull a code, dash indicates I'm in drive while vehicle is in park, same noises etc.
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The Right DRL Not Working on my 2005 Venture. I checked the following, also note the turn signal works and the following are ok.
Bulb
Bulb Socket
Socket harness
All Fuses and relays
When I turn on the headlights the day-time bulb lights...
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