TrailBlazer :: 03 - Accumulator Hiss After Engine Is Shut Off With AC On?
May 30, 2013
tried the ac for the first time and condenser turned on for only 3-4 seconds and shut off . then turned on after 3-4 seconds and turned off again. no cold air . I bypassed the low pressure switch with a wire in the connector that plugs in to the switch and the condenser ran continuously. my question is .....does the accumulator hiss after the engine is shut off with the ac on? I did remove the pressure switch and heard a little 'psssst'. there was a coating of oil on the o-ring . I screwed the switch back on . Seems like there was pressure in the accumulator. just wondering if the hissing after shutoff was normal. No signs of leakage anywhere. Maybe need a recharge after pressure test?
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I have a 2004 f150 lariat crew cab 4x4 with the 5.4 3 valve. It now has 113 000 miles. Since i got it at 85 000 miles its had a hiss when the engine was under load. So like light acceleration or driving into wind. The guy i bought it from said that it had a manifold leak so that's what i figured it was. I got the manifold fixed and it still hisses. There are no check engine lights. It almost feels like my engine lags when it starts hissing. It sounds like its coming from right on the other side of the fire wall. What it could be?
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I have an '01 Prius with ~80,000 miles now. I bought it with a known brake issue, however upon further diagnosis, it appears the problem is with the Brake accumulator.
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Okay, quick run down;
2004 prius
Brake sensors, all 4, changed
Accumulator changed
Still throwing codes even when reset by dealer. They have bled the brake lines 5 times, reset codes and still throwing codes.
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I have a 1998 Ford Ranger 4 WD 3.0 L Vulcan engine. When I turn on the AC it blows out hot air, in fact it feels like the heater is on. I have checked the pressures with a gauge and both high side and low side are within working ranges. Also when I turn it to some of the heater functions the AC compressor kicks on as well. I have tried turning the temperature dial between hot and cold but that doesn't seem to change anything.
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I have noticed that when I open the door to the driver's side after the car has been sitting overnight that the pump noise is longer than half a year ago when i bought it used. It used to last for max. 3 or so seconds, and now it takes 5-10s - depends. I can get into car and almost get it into ready and then it ends.
Also, every second or third time i press the brake (normal, like when stopping gently) i can hear the sound of the pump for around 2 seconds. I don't remember that happening before so is this or isn't normal?
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The wife's 2003 GX470 has some brake issues. High pitched whine and ABS and Brake lights went on, so I took it to my local lexus dealer which is 50 miles away. Anyway, the recommendation is to replace "brake booster" and "accumulator" with brake system bleed.
Then, says "may need master cylinder after that, will not know until that is completed
Then goes on to need timing belt, water pump due to miles (97K)
CV boots
Driveline service
[URL]..................
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When I turn the engine off on my Trailblazer, there is a fan under the dash that continues to run. It sounds like the blower fan. I ended up having to pull the number 34 fuse out to make it stop. This fuse is labeled as "Ignition A". If I pull the #35 fuse, which is for the blower fan, it doesn't stop it. Is there something else besides a blower fan under the dash making this noise and why?
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Wife's 2002 model, 104,000 miles on vehicle, but recently developed a tat-tat-tat noise when first turning the key. Sounds electrical. What may be causing the noise?
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2 days ago I was driving my car back home and suddenly Check VSC System" Warnings “appear on screen, it’s the first time gotten this warning displayed while driving.
I went to one of Lexus Maintenance repair agency and they started to do the Computer check and following that an error message showed “Abnormal Leak in Accumulator” and he showed me the location of that part on my car Part No 44510-50070 & PK031-353 and the price of this part about 1600$ the Engineer said! Or to go for a second hand one..! I did some search and find out that this part it is not that easy to be damage..
my car is LS 460 L 2007
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Last week my ABS warning light came on. I took it to a mechanic (who I trust but is not a Prius-specific mechanic) who said warnings are coming up for the anti-lock accumulator and hydro boost motor. However, in July 2011 I had these both replaced. The work was done by a Toyota dealership. I ended up taking my car back 4 times after this work was completed as it kept having braking issues. They replaced the shim kit and bled the brakes. And eventually they replaced the master cylinder (this they did under warranty bc there was no way I was paying them any more money). At no point did they seem to understand what they were doing. (Along the way they broke my windshield and killed my battery.)
Finally by November 2011 my car was driving normal again. And then the warning light and high-pitched alarm went off again last week. I talked to Toyota Corporate who suggested I call the dealer to do the work since technically the accumulator and motor just ran out of their one year warranty. But this is the same dealer that didn't seem to know what they were doing last year.
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I have a 97 f150 4x4 with the 4r70w and it shifts a bit slow between first and second. So I've been doing my research and figured id try to put new 1-2 accumulator piston and springs in. What are the part numbers so I don't order the wrong stuff.
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I have a 2004 Trailblazer LS with the 4.2L I6 and this problem just recently started and I found this video on youtube of someone having the exact same problem. [URL] ....
This noise is only there in reverse and drive. If you put it in park or neutral it goes away. Also goes away if you give it some throttle while in gear.
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Sound coming from the engine and it is coming from the passengers side of the engine. The year is 2003, LS model, and four wheel drive. Well, I took it in yesterday and the mechanic said it was the "Camshaft" and this was a normal sound. Not to mention I have had this vehicle in for 6 other problems: 3 times for the four wheel drive light malfunctioning, 2 times for the service engine light coming on and then they had to replace a seal on the left front deferential because it was leaking oil.
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I have a 2002 trailblazer with the V6 engine. while driving it will say on the message center POWERING DOWN. the engine shuts off and after coasting to a stop its like the battery is dead. It wont shift into park and the key cant be removed from the key switch. thinking that it was a battery or alternator problem I had both replaced. And it done the same thing the last time it was driven. Had it towed home, connected a battery charger to it to boost it and it allowed me to cut the ignition to the off position and remove the key. What could be wrong with it?
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I have an '06 trailblazer with the 5.3 engine. When it's cold outside Freezing and below. The engine will start. Run for three seconds. And shutdown. Pass lock light stays solid. The engine won't crank for about a minute. And it'll do the same thing. If it's about 40 or above. No problems.
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Trailblazer 2008. This has happened 6 or 8 times. When fuel tank is 1/4 full or less, decelerating downhill from 50 mph to make a right-hand turn, the engine stalls as I reach the turn. Of course I lose power steering and brakes.
If I stop in that downhill position, the fuel gauge reads ZERO but the Low Fuel light is not showing. Turning the key to restart does not restart the engine but if I roll to a flat piece of road or to an uphill position, the engine starts immediately on turning the key. The fuel gauge continues to show ZERO until I turn off the ignition completely and restart. Then the fuel gauge immediately returns to indicate 1/4 full.
No warning lights of any kind show on the dash. There is no question of the gauge showing a false 1/4 indication when the tank is actually empty, since I can drive for 30 miles after the incident while the gauge slowly drops lower until I fill up again with gas.
SOMETHING tells the engine it has no gas so it stops. No stutter or indication of fuel starvation. Simply an engine shut-off.
I tried to reproduce the effect immediately after it had happened by turning the car round and retracing the route, but it did not happen a second time at that location, but it did repeat a few hours later at another intersection.
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The ac condenser unit will click every 7 seconds followed by a 3 to 400 rpm surge for 5 seconds or so, drop rpm then repeat. Belt looks fine, no slipping, new plugs a month ago, newish air and gas filter, does it in neutral or drive, read many ideas from low or high freon, iac, throttle body cleaning, o2 sensor? no codes thrown. Maybe coincidental but was discussing o2 upstream sensor recently on this board. The car experiences the same symptoms while driving.
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My friend has a 2004 Trailblazer with a 4.2. He was driving it a few days ago and the check engine light came on and it would not run pass 15 miles per hour. He turned the truck off and re-started it. The light went off and the problem went away. The scan tool came up with an old code that that throttle body sensor was bad or the throttle body needed cleaned. We cleaned the throttle body and ran it and it ran fine. Now here is the problem. When the heater is on and the truck is at idle, the truck will idle at 2000 rpm, then kick back to normal then kick back to 2000 rpm and then keep repating this issue. If we shut the heat off, the truck idles fine.
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When I put my 2002 TrailBlazer into 4WD, it seems normal as long as I have my foot on the gas, but when I am "coasting" or just slowing down, the car feels like something is dragging on the engine is dragging--sort of like when one tries to drive with the parking brake engaged, or like when you shift to a lower gear in a car with a manual transmission and it slows the engine down. I don't recall this being a "feature" I've had before.
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I just replaced spark plugs and now it is running rough and reduced engine power light is on. did not mix up wires or coil packs. did one at a time.
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