Toyoyta - RAV4 :: 2008 - Air Condition Super Blow At Level 4?
Aug 8, 2011
We have a 2008 Rav4 whose warranty expires tomorrow, 8/9/11. My wife thinks that on hot days, the air conditioning, when set on the highest level 4, will go into a "super-blow" state about 15 to 30 seconds after the knob is turned, and remain at the increased flow until the car cools. Then it quiets back to "normal". She told me a few days ago that she's not hearing the increased flow anymore at level 4 and thinks there's now something wrong with the car. She always has it on recirculate, so I know it's not caused by shifting to recirc. Does the Rav4 is even supposed to have this feature. It may be hard to get it into the shop tomorrow.
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This is a 6.4L powerstroke, but this is not an engine specific problem. I have a no crank condition that appeared overnight while parked in the driveway. I CAN start it by using the solenoid connector wire near the air filter box and supplying 12v from + battery post. I THINK that eliminates batteries, solenoid and starter.
Now that leaves Trans range sensor or (NSS) and the ignition switch. I can test and get 12V (light) on the Blu/Wh wire from ign sw when turned to start, so that seems good. And as far as I can tell the trans range sensor is internal to the tranny, and I really don't want to go there if possible....
Also there are no codes on the Solus scanner I borrowed. And the voltage is showing as 11.7 on the scanner....is that low enough to prevent voltage from being sent to the solenoid thru the SJB and/or PCM even though engine will start as described?
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I have a dead battery while trying to jump; my car I blew my alternator fuse. I had a friend try to change the fuse but he was unable to get all of the fuse.How can I get all the fuse out to put a new fuse in?
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1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Laredo, 6 cyl). The AC, when set on the vent outlets that blow at chest level, will shift to defrost when accelerating or going up hill. It returns to the proper setting when you leave off the gas feed.One can hear the blend doors changing. I am mystified, because I thought that vacuum operated blend doors went out decades ago.
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I have a fabtech 4 link 6" lift on a 2008 6.4. The lift kit used to sit level but the front is sitting lower now. How can I fix this?
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I'm having an issue on my 2008 f250 power stroke. My telescoping mirrors are causing the fuse to blow instantly when I hit the button. Where to start looking for a short?
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Another question on this, my 2008 F250 with auto climate has decided to only blow heat on the passenger side...do you agree that it is an actuator? If so how hard or easy is this to fix and what is the best fix.
While here, on another note, I noticed a rubber line hanging right over my front diff it looks like it could go onto a nipple coming off the diff? Is this a vacuum line for the diff that I need to put back?
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2006 f-150 with a 4.6L. Its got 175k on the clock and ran like a sewing machine despite little maintenance other than oil changes. Recently it started running like crap; no power and missing so he borrowed a scanner and it was giving multiple codes. Here's what we have done so far, not necessarily in this order :
1.Checked for vac leaks with carb cleaner (this can be tough as engine runs crappy and hard to detect minor changes in rpms while your under the hood) no leaks detected yet
2. Changed the plugs, all looked good except for one which was heavily fouled and the electrode ate away mostly, I wasnt there and he doesnt remember which one but have a suspicion, more on that in a min
3. Changed most of the COPs and checked them all with a spark tester, all are firing.
4.Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner
5. Checked back pressure on the exhaust by removing an upstream o2 sensor and holding a plastic fitting hooked to a pressure gage long enough to get a reading, about 1 lb idling to maybe 2 max when engine is reved, gage is not the best and fluctuates a 1/2 lb or so. Exhaust does not smell of rotten eggs.
6. Changed the fuel filter, it was terrible
7. Ran a bottle of Seafoam in the tank
8. Took the throttle body and egr valve off and checked for carbon stoppage, the holes in the egr were not blocked
9. checked the PVC valve and line and both elbows
7. checked the injector connectors with a noid light for signal, they all flash, checked the injectors them selves with a multimeter set for ohms, all about from 13.5-14.5. This should mean they arent fried but could they still be stopped up? They all sound like they are pumping when you listen with a mechanics stethoscope
9. Changed all 4 o2 sensors as this had never been done anyway
10. Compression check on cylinders, all within 10% of each other at about 180 lbs. When we pulled the plugs they all looked good except for # 7 which was heavily fouled ( I suspect the same on the original plugs) and again with a bad electrode, the part coming out of the porcelin. Intrestingly, this was an autolite plug, the rest were motorcraft, I hoped this was somehow just a bad plug but no change with a new MC plug
11. Changed the injector on #7
The scanner reads lean condition on banks 1 and 2 and random misfires on #4 and # 7 still. Per a troubleshooting tip online, we sprayed some carb cleaner in a small vac line coming off the manifold to induce a rich condition and the scanner showed the o2 sensors go to .900 which is what they are supposed to do per the guide. This means they are functioning correctly and a bonafide lean condition exists. I am leaning towards a vacuum leak around the plastic manifold under the aluminum one, maybe the gaskets but would like to rule out the egr valve, could it be the culprit?
I have even considered the possibility that the PCM is bad, though not likely. I have read to detect a vac leak you can hook the scanner up and spray the carb cleaner around on the manifold and lines with the scanner hooked up watching the scanner PID for the o2 sensors and when they detect the cleaner, they will hit that .800-1.0 meaning the engine sucked the cleaner in and you have found your leak. The exhaust smells rich. If it is a vac leak, you would think it should be a massive leak and not hard to detect, as crappy as the truck runs. I have searched the forums for days and exhausted about all I know to do.
Most important note: early on I suspected low fuel pressure as a possibility; with no schrader valve on the fuel rail and no easy spot to T into the system, we were scratching our heads how were gonna measure psi but the scanner reads absolute fuel rail pressure, gives about 40-43 psi. I hope the scanner is telling us what we need to know there, would prefer a mechanical gauge on the rail!
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2006 F150 4.2 fuel issue? I get an intermitent no start condition and no obd codes. Then I discover that it really isn't intermittent, it only occurs after I have been running the engine. It will not start for at least 5-10 minutes after I have driven a few miles and shut the engine off. So if I wait 5-10 minutes then she starts and runs just fine. I played with this in the driveway to recreate this condition so I could determine if I had a spark or fuel issue (I have spark during no start). I found that 50% of the time I could start it right back up immediately after I shut the engine off. But if I shut it off right away again, then I got the no start condition again and have to wait another 5-10 minutes.
Now with cold engine I can start the motor over and over. To fix this I read forum after forum, which led me to decide that I had a fuel pump driver problem (module) located on back axle under spare tire. I replaced this and restarted the engine many times. The problem seemed to be gone but this only lasted about 30 minutes. Then it would not start at all and still no codes. I plugged my old module back in and the truck fired right up. So I decided I needed to (flash) pcm for new part but that changes nothing. Still no start with new module and runs with old module. I also replaced relay in fuse panel.
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I have a 2008 Toyota Rav4 all wheel drive that has 80,000 miles on it. It's been having a lot of problems lately, namely the water pump. I got it replaced at our local mechanic's about 3 weeks ago and all was fine until I tried to turn on the heat last night. Only cold air blew out and then came on intermittently and then just stopped again. The fan works fine, it's just not blowing hot air. Not sure if this is related to the water pump being replaced? Do I need to flush the heater core? There is no leakage. I am really getting annoyed with all the issues the car has been having lately and don't want to spend a lot more money to fix it at this point. How much would it be to replace the heater core?
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I was caught up in the middle of the haboob (major dust storm) in Phoenix this summer. I drove through it in my 2008 BMW X3 (40K miles) for about 45 minutes. Ever since, the engine has been idling rough and hesitant on acceleration. I had replaced the air filter which was full of fine dust particles and thoroughly cleaned and vacuumed the internal of the filter housing. I also used Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner on a couple of tanks. The condition has improved a bit but it is still not back to how it was before.
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I have a 2008 Toyota RAV 4 that I have serviced regularly, and it's not due for an oil change for another 1,000 miles. Recently, the oil light started flashing briefly only when I stepped on the brake pedal. I finally checked the dipstick, and it needed 2 quarts of oil. There is no evidence of oil leaks on the ground under the car. It is also not smoking. If it was burning oil, wouldn't there be smoke from the exhaust pipe? If there are no visible oil leaks and it doesn't appear to be burning oil, how else could the oil have disappeared?
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44k miles. V6 Rav4 Sport. Coolant seems very low. I can't see any crusty coolant in or around the engine. Does the water pump need to be replaced? I don't hear anything like marbles in a can. Researching online water pump could fail multiple times even under 100k. That means I don't want to have the same pump installed. My powertrain warranty expired 4 months ago so I doubt Toyota would do anything with repair costs.
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I have a 2008 RAV-4 with leaky tires. The tires will slowly deflate from 35-20 psi over the period of a week or so. I have checked for nails without finding any. In the past we have taken them into a tire store and had them pulled to check for nails without ever finding anything. They usually reset the tires and tell us the seal between the wheel and tire was bad and they put some stuff on it and send us away. This will work for about a month and then it starts happening again.
We live on the end of a 1/2 mile dirt road. Is it possible that the dust that is kicked up by the car on the dirt road gets in the seal and degrades it? If so is there any "magic" solution you have run across or do I just stop at the gas station with free air every couple of days to top them off. Also why would our other car not be affected. I am assuming the RAV4 has good wheels or the tire place would be all over selling us some new ones.
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Lately my car has a super slow take off in the morning. Granted I let it marginally warm up. But it takes such a long time as I am trying to merge into highway traffic. The RPM thingee slowly climbs up to 4 before it shifts. The gas pedal is to the floor. Hope this isn't a pricey transmission issue.
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I just had new pads and rotors puton and I have a constant squeaking noise coming from the front end where the parts were put.
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Our 2008 Rav4 (4 cylinder) has on more than one occasion come up with a loud clunking sound when backing up our steep (~ 20% grade) driveway. It feels like it has popped out of gear or even into a forward gear. The first time it happened (a couple of months ago) it was taken directly to the dealer who found nothing. It happened again today - on two attempts to back up the driveway. If the phenomenon correlates with anything, it's higher air temperatures and after a longish (> 30 minute) drive. Any clues?
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Where the ICP is located on a 2006 f350? I have a no start condition after the truck warms up, everything else is fine. Started fluid works to crank, I suspect the ICP and /or Orings.
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I have had my 2008 Pontiac G5 since 2009. I got it used with about 32000 miles and it currently has 110,000 miles. It is the basic model G5. I love my car and want to keep it for a long time. It is in great condition except for one problem: the A/C. So it basically only will blow out heat, even if I have everything off. Sometime if I turn the knob quickly from Cold to hot to cold I will get some cold air but only for a few minutes. The thing is I just can't turn it off as it is always blowing out some hot air which makes my car miserably hot in the summer.
Also when it does blow out cold air, the fan is weaker then with hot air. All these issues have gotten progressively worse over the last few years. It used to be that at times I would have A/C for long periods of time when I did the rapid spin of the knob but now the spinning of the knob does not even work. I have had many repair shops to get it fixed but nothing has worked (people have tried new Freon, fixing the door part that flips from hot to cold,etc.) What could be my issue? I want to keep my car but making any long trips is very difficult in any weather above 75 degrees as the car becomes a sauna. I have had this problem for the last 4 summers and just want it fixed already! I want a car with A/C.
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2008 V6 Camry - Read quite a few threads about people not being able to see their oil level. It isn't the usual problem where sanding the dipstick or paper towels or painting it or turning it or better lighting will give me the mark because I have the opposite problem - I can see too much oil showing for some inches above the full level. The oil is coming from the dipstick tube so I cant tell where the true level is.
The car is cold and level. Tried making the dipstick really clean with hot dish detergent, and also tried making it a bit sticky with vicks - nope. Occasionally I can see a small hole in the oil about an eighth above the full line - so I reckon that is the true level. I changed the oil myself so I know it hasn't got 2 gallons in there. Driven it 2k at speed since the oil change and it is perfect.
But is there a better way to make sure that oil in the tube does not get on the dipstick causing the dipstick to show 3 inches overfull ?
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My A/C works, blows nice cold air. As I am driving the fan stops blowing. The LEDs on the A/C panel are lit but no cold air. I stop the car, restart it and the air starts blowing again. Have you see this problem? What should I do to try and fix it? If there is a sensor will you send me a diagram of the location of the sensor?
2008 VW Passat 2.0T BPY
New battery 11/2012
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