Toyota - Yaris :: 2010 - Unintentional Sudden Deceleration
Feb 20, 2012
I have a 2010 Toyota Yaris at 33,000 miles . I love the car BUT on two occasions, the following has happened:
I am driving at 70 mph on the highway. Out of nowhere the car starts decelerating. I watch the needle on the mileage gauge fall and try to accelerate but even when the gas pedal to the floor, nothing happens. No odd noises, no lights go on on the dashboard. Fortunately, I am able to get over on the side of the highway safely. As I brake however, the car kind of lurches forward and feels like it wants to accelerate. After I pump the brakes briefly, the lurching stops and I start driving again and it is like nothing happened. At no time did I turn the car off.
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My 2006 Toyota Corolla will suddenly decelerate for a period of 3 to 5 seconds. No warning lights come on and the engine does not cut out. This has been happening sporadically for about 2 years. It will occur 2 ot 3 times in a day of driving. The dealership says they cannot diagnose the problem since they can't duplicate it. The ECM was replaced several months ago. The car has 120000 miles on it. I just got a new battery and transmission fluid.
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I have a 2010 santa fe with 19k miles.....twice this week i was driving and suddenly the gas pedal stopped working and engine light came on. brakes worked. Have "Sudden Unintended Deceleration"??
After the first event, i had it towed to the dealer (following protocol in the manual). they reported a new recall (it had been serviced a few months ago), executed a computer update and all was fixed (or so i thought).
4 days later, with less than 100 miles driven since the repair, it happened again. this time i was in 35mph traffic so when the accelerator pedal no longer worked, i almost was rear-ended. i was able to coast out of traffic (brakes and steering fine)to a side street. i was able to coast home (.5 mile or so). car would accelerate after stop signs, although the gas pedal doesn't respond at all. very scary that it even shifted to a higher gear and would go 30mph and keep accelerating if i didn't brake!
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When driving, if I let off on the gas, my 2016 Elantra kinda coasts for a second or 2 and then does a rapid deceleration or sometimes sudden acceleration and moves unevenly instead of coming to a smooth stop or slowly coasting at a constant speed. The car jerks just enough to feel like I'm braking a bit. Not smooth like it should be.
I have been using my Elantra 2016 since end of last year. It has mostly been like this since the last few months and lately it has increased. Also, lately my fuel economy hasn't been great as well. Why my Elantra has been behaving like this?
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It seems like every time I take a corner or make any sudden acceleration/deceleration that my driver seat seems to shift around--like it's not properly anchored in my car. It's hard to explain...Any aggressive driving around corners and such makes my seat make a slight popping sound, with some slight give. I never had this problem with my mkvi TDI I used to have (although I could never take corners as fast as my R). Also, my seats are already showing wearing on the bolsters (just over 2k miles). I know others have expressed issues with this. What is everyone else doing to remedy this?
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I have a 2010 Toyota Yaris four door. When I am stopped while in drive, the front left part of the vehicle rattles, sounds like it is around the front driver-side tire. If I change the car into Neutral, Reverse, or Park it will go away, but Drive or any of the lower gears will cause the rattle. I have only had the car for about 2 months and it has been doing this for a couple weeks.
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Having problem with 2010 Toyota Corolla. Engine light comes on as well as VSC and traction control but the engine does not shut off. I loose power and engine runs really rough. I have to pull over and unplug my battery cable and the problem is gone until a week or two later same thing happens. My gas mileage is about 10 km for every 100KM city and Highway mix. The engine idle is also rough and sometimes when I try to do a U turn or get in and out of parking the engine shuts off.
Engine scanned shows P0010 and it could be three or for causes? My problem is that mechanics change one thing which costs an arm and a leg then if that did not fix the problem they say now lets change another part? I can not afford to fix them one by one and get charged for it as they replace one part at a time.
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When I turn the steering wheel on the spot without the car moving, I get a popping noise which sounds like its coming from just behind the steering wheel. It sometimes happens when im turning and reversing out of my driveway. No noise coming from engine bay or wheels.
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Is it normal? I tried to find a discussion about this in this forum but couldn't find anything.
When coasting over 35 mph, when the speeds reaches 35, the engine (or ICE as you prefer) is starting for a second then stops. I really don't see why it would do that.
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I have a 2008 Toyota RAV 4 that I have serviced regularly, and it's not due for an oil change for another 1,000 miles. Recently, the oil light started flashing briefly only when I stepped on the brake pedal. I finally checked the dipstick, and it needed 2 quarts of oil. There is no evidence of oil leaks on the ground under the car. It is also not smoking. If it was burning oil, wouldn't there be smoke from the exhaust pipe? If there are no visible oil leaks and it doesn't appear to be burning oil, how else could the oil have disappeared?
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Bought this car new and really haven't had any major issues until the last month. It's a 2003, six-speed, inline 4, 1.8L engine. When I came to a stop, the engine just died and would not restart until I let it "rest" for a couple of minutes. It restarted and ran fine. This same thing happened again a week or so later.
Then, just yesterday, I was doing about 65 on the interstate and the engine died, tach dropped to 0, but I didn't lose power steering or brakes. I was coasting for a few seconds and the engine came back. When I slowed down to pull into a parking garage, it died but I was coasting enough to pop the clutch and it restarted for a moment allowing me to almost get into a parking stall. As I slowed to get into the stall it died completely and had to be pushed into the stall.
I left it there for a few hours. When I got back, it started and ran fine. I feel this is just the beginning of some problem with the electronic control module/unit.
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My 2000 corolla has consistently gotten 35 MPG until last month, suddenly I've dropped to 18-20 miles per gallon, a friend suggested fuel filter fail, but i can't discern if it has an external one...
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there is peeling off of white flakes, mostly on top of the car. what is this? what to do?
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Toyota Yaris 2008 with 165,000 miles, so far great car. I drive an average of 100 miles a day, and had no problems until the last 6 months that the driver side headlight burnt out. So no big problem, right? just replace it... Well, about 2 months later, the other one went out, replaced it too. This morning at 1:30a.m getting home from work, a hwy patrol stops me because the driver side headlight is out, and gives me a warning ticket. I took the car to my mechanic so he can check wires or something, but he says that there is nothing to check, that after a while "those" lights go out like that. I am not sure about that, I really do not want to be changing lights every 2 or so months.
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I bought a 2008 toyota yaris last year from the dealership when it was returned from a lease. It has been running really well, couldn't be happier with this little car. Weather is practically perfect, but today when I was leaving, I had trouble starting my car.
After turning the key for 2-3 seconds the car finally starts and once it starts is runs fine, no service lights come on, no issues with lights, no sputtering, no stalling. My Toyota dealership isn't open until tomorrow morning, but I have an appointment at 7am.
What this could be and if I drive the car anywhere else today (10/02/11) is there a risk I'll not be able to start it at all? And end up needed a tow?
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Ok I got a 1995 toyota corolla 1.8l dx .... So this is my back up car I went out started it up let it set and warm up and took it around the yard to run it a little well it ran fine then all of a sudden it lost all it's power well I finaly got it back to the drive that was only 50ft away took almost 30mins just to get it there. I cut it off let it sit started it back up and still no power well now it won't even start it has new plugs.. Wires.. Cap button.
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Just bought little Echo and it's blowing hot air when the ac is on if I turn the ac off with the selector in the blue it's still hot. I used the gauge off a old ac recharger can and its showing the right amount of Freon and the compressor clutch is spinning. I am really wanting to fix it cheap , since I got it for 1200.
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My Car has been making a noise that comes and goes. It seems to be dependent on the speed of the engine and coming from under the hood. It can come for an hour and then disappear for a week, then come back etc.
Toyota Yaris 2008105K4 cylinder, 1.5L engineNo turbo. Attached is an MP3 of the noise, you may have to turn up the volume to hear as it isn't super loud.
Seems to happen more often in colder weather. It sometimes happens right from startup, but other times it doesn't start until after half an hour on the road.
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I just imported an Toyota Belta (Yaris) 2009. When starting it after it's been siting for a while (i.e. over night) it almost always doesn't start on the first attempt, but will on the second, recording attached.
Also, it has a rough idle. Today it idled down so low when we were at a stoplight it sounded like it was going to stall.
We've changed the fuel filter, spark plugs, and cleaned the injectors and throttle body. The mechanic has run diagnostics which didn't indicate anything other than rough idle.
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Is it necessary to change the transition fluid every 60,000 miles?
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I have a 2008 Toyota Yaris Hatchback S. it has 99008 miles on it and while trying to drive up my drive way (which is covered in ice and snow) I got stuck and before I realized I was stuck my check engine light was flashing. As soon as I stopped the car the light turned off. I was wondering what I should do.
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