Toyota :: What RPMs Be At While Checking A/C With Manifold Gauge
Jun 16, 2011
I just bought an a/c manifold gauge set for testing my car's a/c system. Should you test it with the the car at idle speed or should it be higher?
View 3 RepliesI just bought an a/c manifold gauge set for testing my car's a/c system. Should you test it with the the car at idle speed or should it be higher?
View 3 RepliesI just bought a 2001 Toyota Echo and wondering the procedure for checking the automatic tranny fluid. It doesn't say a word in the owner manual on how to do it. I know most vehicles you have it warmed up and check it in Park while idling.
View 1 RepliesI just purchased a b5 99 1.8t. The tubing from the intake manifold to the dv was cut by accident (long story, dont ask).I replaced the dv and tubing .I want to check if the psi is correct. I dont have a boost gauge.
What are the ways to check it besides a boost gauge? I think the correct psi is around 6-8 ?
The A/C on my hand-me-down '99 Lumina has never been outstanding, but has kept the Florida summers at bay. I recently turned it on again (I only ran it once or twice this winter) and the system was empty. I refilled it and it was empty again in 72 hours. I was hoping the seals had just dried out, but it continues to empty after several other attempts to recharge it, including adding 134a with lubricants. I added 134a with UV dye in it and the only leak I found is around the compressor clutch. I accept that the compressor probably has to go, but am puzzled by the manifold gauge readings taken when I added the last can. I just don't want to put in a new compressor and find out that wasn't the only problem.
With the system off, both High and Low sides read just under 70. (Normal Low and High side operating pressures for this car are listed at 42 and 340 respectively.) When the system is turned on, Low drops to 30 and High goes to 80 and there is no air cooling. After 30 seconds the High side slowly climbs to 200 and the Low side slowly drops to 26, with almost no air cooling. When the High side hits 200, it drops back down to 80 and the Low side goes back to 30. After 30-45 seconds it does it again and keeps repeating. The compressor clutch stays engaged the whole time. I looked in the Haynes A/C Techbook as well as online and can't find anything that resembles this description. If this is just symptomatic of a bad compressor, or is there more evil afoot? Also, while I have the system open are there any parts I should replace at the same time given the age of the system?
The guy at the muffler place says I have a cracked exhaust manifold. He also says he can't get the parts after holiday. I'm supposed to drive, with my family for holidays. The muffler guy says that should be fine - highway driving will generate enough airflow to keep us from all dying of CO asphyxiation.
View 17 RepliesI have a 1993 Toyota Corolla 1.6L with 200K miles. It is a sweet ride, but about every 2 or 3 years, the exhaust manifold cracks. I have replaced it several times, installing new gaskets, and carefully following the torque specifications on all of the bolts, but eventually, it cracks again.
View 18 RepliesI have a question regarding a leak i have in the manifold of my toyota camry 2002 2.4 cylinder. the engine check light is coming up and after a check on the mechanic there is a leak in the manifold where the catalytic converter is attached. when you put your hands near the pipe, you can feel air coming out. See the image attached.
The link is in the part mark as X. The catalytic converter is the one which is circled. [URL] ....
I have had a problem with my car idle hunting for about the past year. Last week my car threw a code and my code checker said that all 4 cylinders were misfiring. So I am still under warranty and took the car to the dealer. They said the intake manifold was leaking.
Two questions come to mind: Has to engine suffered any damage from leaking for over a year? and Do they automatically change the oil when changing out the intake manifold/gasket?
I did have an oil analysis last year (5/11) through Blackstone Labs and no antifreeze was present in the oil but the silicates were mildly high. Car is a 2005 toyota corolla with 102,xxx miles. The dealer also did the head gasket and a couple other engine gaskets 1 year ago.
My mom took her 2000 Avalon in for 40,000 mile checkup and was told a pipe had melted onto the manifold and could not be removed. The entire manifold had to be replaced in order to pass GA emission testing. Two different kinds of metal were used in the original construction of the car and when the car was heated, the melting occurred. My parents are expected to replace at their own cost. Any other reports of similar instances and if so, how was it handled? Seems like Toyota should be responsible, doesn't it?
View 30 Replies2004 Landcruiser excellent condition 77K. Exhaust manifold/heat shield type rattle, intermittant but >50%time. ONLY when in Drive and at Idle at 6000rpm. Goes away any higher rpm. NO rattle in Park or Neutral.
View 8 RepliesMy oil pressure gauge jumps all over the place when I get over 3000 rpms. At lower rpms it is in the normal range and the engine sounds ok. How can I tell if this is the oil pump or the sending unit or the gauge? This is a 1980 CJ5 with a 151ci 4 cylinder.
View 2 RepliesI'm looking to trade my '95 dodge ram 1500 with someone for their '95 grand cherokee. The GC has 190k miles on it, my truck has 155k.
I noticed when test driving the GC that the oil gauge follows the rpms of the engine. I.e. when idle the oil gauge is low-mid level. When i raise the RPMs, the gauge indicates there is more oil pumping, then when i go back to idle it drops back down too; in other words it looks like the oil jumps with RPMs.
I've never seen this type of behavior before, is this a sign of typical behavior for a jeep GC, a bad gauge, maybe an oil leak?
RPM's (tachometer needle) not working when engine on, also when I'm drive wy SUV. 2003 GX470...
View 2 RepliesI have a 2012 Toyota Camry le and for some reason it's been pinging on low RPMs. I've tried octane boosts and a cleaner and for some reason it's has the problem.
View 14 RepliesMy 2009 , 1.8 Corolla gets terrible gas mileage. 23 city (lowest was 12), best ever was 30 highway. I have approx 14K on the odo because the MPG makes me want to leave at home.
The MPG has been verified in writing by 2 different dealers, so I do not consider myself the problem.I drive conservatively and calculate MPG based on actual miles / gallons.Toyota Corp did not bother to fix this issue.It has been serviced regularly and had whatever fixes Toyota offered.
What I think is causing my terrible mileage is some glitch in an engine sensor that causes it to rev from 900 to 1100 RPM when I take my foot off the accelerator and attempt to coast. The revs go down when I press the brake. This happens constantly, especially at around 25 MPH. If I do not brake, the car will pull for a while without slowing down like normal cars.
I showed my Toyota dealers but they all said nothing is wrong. My Corolla even went up a slight hill without my foot near the accelerator. One tech told me the Corolla is burning off extra fuel, but my car will pull itself for over 1/2 mile, too much time for "burning"
Something IS wrong. I have driven dozens of vehicles and never had one jump like this. Where to start diagnosing?
Baffled that my well-maintained 05 Corolla couldn't smog today. Smog checker said rpms were too high and it got kicked off the machine six times; said he had replaced his cable today. Manual transmission, 96,000 miles and had oil change last week; 93,000 major service included flush of something.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Toyota Avalon with 139,000 miles and it runs great. When I get on the highway going 80 MPH my RPM'S are around 2700-2800. Is that safe and normal running conditions for the car? Also I will be taking it out of town going that speed for about 3 hours. Should I be nervous or would my car be fine?? It's been about 6 months since my last trip.
View 11 RepliesLast night when accelerating from 40 to 60 mph I felt a "whoosh" and then the RMPs went to 3000 when I had my foot on the pedal. They dropped to 1200 if I let off. This morning the car would shift into reverse, but punching the accelerator did nothing. Other gears are fine. I rolled out of the drive, stopped at the mech and diagnostics showed only a bad speed sensor. I saw a post elesewhere that had a similar issue in 2006, same model Toyota Sienna 2000 xle. Mech pricing the transmission replacement. Could it just be malfunctioning speed sensor sending bad data to the ECM?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1997 Toyota Camry with over 200,000 miles. It is a manual: 5 speed. In the past few months it has started to idle at around 2000 RPMS, which is way too high. I took the car into a mechanic where I am currently living (Austin, TX), and they couldn't diagnose the problem, because, according to them, it didn't do it the whole time they had it. I admit, it doesn't do it all the time, but I know something is not right. It is beginning to idle high more frequently. How to diagnose this problem and to solve it!!
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 Toyota Celica GT and I seem to be getting horrible gas mileage. I have replaced the Sending Unit. Also, I have attached a collage of photos that I was able to capture on my cell phone of what its doing to understand what could be the problem/issue.
View 5 RepliesI had the oil changed recently in my 2008 tundra 5.7 v-8. I noticed the oil pressure gauge moving. When I started the truck, I noticed the gauge will move to the right of the indicator in the middle of the gauge and then it will go back to the middle mark on the gauge when it is warmed up. I also notice that it moves a little when I accelerate. Maybe it has done this in the past and I just have not noticed but was wondering if I should be concerned.
View 5 Replies