Toyota - Tercel :: 1993 - Cranks And Stutters After Driving A Bit - Doesn't Idle
Nov 8, 2015
I have a 93 tercel that has developed a weird engine problem. It starts fine and will drive fine for about half hour. If u stop after half hour and shut engine off and 5 minutes later try to restart and it will crank over for at least 10 seconds before it restarts. After it is running again it seems to have a serious stutter and doesnt want to idle. When u shift into drive it stalls and you have to crank engine for another 10 or more seconds before it will start again, and when it does start it still stuttering and wanting to stall. If you keep foot on brake and other foot on gas it can be driven and once the car is moving over 10 mph it runs fine. The wires have been changed and the rotor and the cap and also timing belt replaced. Plugs also were pulled and inspected. Showed sighns of wear but all were nice tan color and looked good.
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I have a 1993 toyota tercel that has a strange problem. The car starts fine when the engine is cold. If I drive it 15 to 20 minutes and stop and then try to start it again it will either not start or if it does, it makes a putting noise and shakes. Also if this is happening and I turn the steering wheel, the car will stop.
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My inline 6 engine softly stutters and misfires while driving and has the check engine light on whenever this happens. It's becoming more frequent now - 20% of the time I'm driving I'd say. The codes are 11, 12, 27, 34. I've looked up the meanings of the codes and I'm leaning towards its bad fuel injectors or a bad connector leading to the fuel rail. I have lots of bad wiring on my 93 Cherokee haha. I've fixed so far: a bad head light connector, and an exposed wire that connects to my distributor - it would swing and touch my engine block causing the engine to die.
But now I am struggling on how to fix my small stuttering engine problem. So the problem only occurs after I make a strong left hand turn such as a 90 degree or a uturn so that means a connection is being pulled to the right. It doesn't have an issue turning to the right though. I don't have sway bars on my 6" lift so there's a reasonable amount of body roll to pull on the wires etc. When I open the hood with the engine running smoothly I can touch and wiggle the front fuel injectors and sometimes I hear it softly misfire or sputter. What connectors lead up to the fuel rail?
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I have a 1985 Toyota Tercel that I just got, the thing has been sitting for 2 years and it started before it was left to sit. Now I have done all the usual maintenance on it, replaced the sparks, oil, oil filter, air filter, distributor cap, fuel pump and fuel filter, gave it some gas treatment and filled the tank and some carb cleaner to clean out the gunked up carb. My problem is that it starts but dies right after when it tries to idle. it can shift in to gear and such but it will still die out right after about 10 seconds unless I keep tapping the gas. The more times I start it the longer it stays idle but I wonder what the problem is...
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I have a 2008 Toyota Camry SE with the 2.4 engine and auto trans. If I'm stopped and in drive the engine feels as if it's going to stall, the entire car "shutters". The tach reads between 700 & 800 but if I place the gear selector into either neutral or park it becomes "glass" smooth, I even have to look at the tach to see if the engine is still running! In neutral or park the tach still reads 700-800 rpm and the A/C is always switched off.
I've had it to 2 different Toyota dealers and yesterday to my regular mechanic. 1st dealer said to disconnect the battery and bring everything back to default positions...no difference, battery was off for 35 minutes. 2nd dealer said to have the throttle body cleaned, which I did...no difference. A bit of background with the vehicle, I've had it since new, I drive 170 hiway miles per day, I use Shell branded fuel, oilchanges always at 5,000 miles, dealer serviced since new.
So yesterday my mechanic checked everything, engine mounts (OK), any error codes (none) cylinder compression (all within spec) spark plugs (OK except for 1 so I asked him to change them all), he installed 4 NGK iridium plugs and guess what...it still shutters & vibrates!!
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My Corolla seems to be dying on me. What could be wrong with it.
It burns oil (a lot: 1.5 liters on 380 km). Black/ blue? smoke from the exhaust.
Idles very low at times (800rpm) and a little high at other times (1300rpm?).
Jerks / stutters while driving (since valve cover gasket (I think that was the one) was changed, due to burning of oil)
Clicking sounds while accelerating.
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So I leave town Friday with the wife's car for a golf tournament that is 4 hours away. I left her with my 2001 F150 Supercrew Lariat 4x4 5.4L. She calls as I am starting my practice round on Friday stating that the truck had died on her in the local Dillons parking lot. She had driven to the east side of Wichita, then drove all the way back to the west side before swinging into Dillons to get some chinese food for lunch. When she gets in the truck to leave, she starts it and it runs rough.
She gave it gas and it ran fine for a few seconds, she put it in drive, and then it started running rough again. She stopped the truck in the parking stall ahead of her, turned it off, and restarted it. Same thing...runs rough. She tried giving it gas, but it would not go above 1500 rpm. Then it just died on her. She then tried cranking it, but it would not turn over. She let it sit overnight and got a ride from a friend (it was 102 degrees out), went back the next morning to try again. Same thing, just cranks. So I get back last night and go up with my scanner. No codes, no SES/CEL.
So, I am now thinking it is the fuel pump. I crawled underneath the truck and had her turn the key so I could see if I can hear the fuel pump. Nothing. I went ahead and disconnected the battery to let it sit overnight.
I am about to head up there and see what I can do. So far, here is my list of things I need to check:
1. Fuel pump relay #301
2. Fuel pump fuse #18
3. Check for the theft light
4. Check "inertia switch" on the passenger side kick panel
5. OPEN gas cap and listen for the fuel pump (had never heard of that one)
6. Hit the gas tank a few times with a rubber mallet to "jar" the fuel pump (again, never heard of that one).
My question to all of you is: Am I missing anything else? Alos, with it running perfect, then running rough and suddenly dying, would is necessarily be the fuel pump? I had read something about a "Fuel Pump Module" located near the spare tire. Is that something I should check into with it running rough (well, not running at all now) like this?
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I have a question, what happens is when I'm driving along at lower speeds and slow down, perhaps at a stop sign, when I go to accelerate again, to cross the intersection for example, the car "chokes" or seems to be almost stalling. Once I have obtained a steady speed again the problem disappears.
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1994 Toyota Tercel manual transmission 284k miles
Began having this problem earlier this week and it's steadily disappointed me every day. Initially car would not crank (turn key and nothing happened), so i read online and did the following steps after each of which it did start once or twice no problems before failing on me again!
First I checked the battery and it's at a solid 12.7V and tightened the connectors to the battery.
Checked starter (took out and to o Reilly, they plugged it in and it worked no problem, but they said it had some grease in it so i cleaned it up and the car started no problem, so i thought problem solved)...
Next day it wouldn't start again so I thought it might be a connection issue, i cleaned the positive terminal to the starter, and both positive and negative battery connections and it worked for a day and a half (worked this morning, but then failed this afternoon)... I checked the charge and from the positive terminal to the solenoid is still 12.7V so that's good right? I also got a light with a continuity tester from the solenoid to the engine but not! When i grounded to the frame (which was the opposite of what three website i was reading said would happen)
Most recently it cranked once but didn't start then refused to click crank or do anything since..
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1991 Toyota Tercel 197,000 miles 5 speed is popping out of 5th gear, if I don"t hold my hand on the shifter it pops out.
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My 1987 Toyota Tercel wagon works very well -- except that it won't start in wet weather. Maybe this is condensation somewhere, maybe not.
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I have a 1993 Geo Prizm (Toyota Corolla) that idles roughly and lopes only when the engine is fully warmed up to operating temp. I changed the plugs, and wires are only 1 year old and seem to be in good shape. I suspected a vacuum leak, but have not been able to find one.
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When I brake, my car engine is shaking and seems want to turn off. I change the 4 new spark plugs and it doesn't work much.
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92 tercel will not start. Replaced plugs, wires, rotor, cap. Turns over ok.
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I bought a Toyota Tercel and the handbrake cables were seized so I changed them both, but they're still not locking the wheels... I've tried to adjust them with the nut beside the lever but it didn't work. I changed the brakes on both rear wheels.
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Sometimes my car starts when I turn over the key once. When it won't start, if I jiggle the steering wheel several times it will start. (When it's cold or humid it rarely starts without first jiggling the steering wheel). I'm not locking the steering wheel and I don't have trouble turning over the key. When the problem first developed I was told it's not the battery, alternator or starter. (I have a Toyota Tercel so the key goes into the steering column). (A few months ago a shop had it a whole day but couldn't get it to act up; then the problem went away for a few months).
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So, until recently I had a 2000 Ford Focus but it was totaled in an accident not long ago and is long gone now. I was given a 1985 Toyota Tercel Wagon with about 194,000 mi by a family member. However, it has always had a problem whereby the brake pedal goes to the floor now and then and especially when it is cold in the morning. So, I took the car to a mechanic (hwy 64 auto, Raleigh, NC) and they replaced the Master Cylinder yesterday and bled the brake lines through the master cylinder.
The mechanic told me that the bleeder valves were too old and corroded to try to bleed them at each wheel and that they might break and then the caliper(s) would then have to replaced. Anyway, long story short, the brakes are WORSE after he changed the master cylinder and bled the lines from the master cylinder. Now EVERY time you first press the brake the pedal goes down then immediately you can "pump" them back up so either air in the lines or still a leak somewhere in the braking system. I do not want to spend anymore money (or at least very little money) on this car as too much has already been spent on other things before I got it and also after I got it.
Did the mechanic screw up or am I looking at a problem you have with some old cars where you start replacing parts in the brake system and then still have the problem or a new problem and then you wind up spending $800 replacing old crappy, worn out parts. What should I do? Did the mechanic screw it up or is it just time to send this old car to the scrap pile and crusher? Remember, I don't want to keep pouring money into this thing. I've already spent some money on it with other stuff lately.
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I just bought a 1997 Toyota Tercel 5-speed stick, with 175,000 miles, and the temperature gauge moves from its lowest possible position to its highest possible position when the key is turned on, although the engine does not overheat, and no coolant is leaking or being burned. I replaced the coolant temperature sensor, but the actions of the gauge were not affected. I don't know if it is somehow related, but the heater blows cold, regardless the setting of the temperature dial on the dash. What I might try next?
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I have a 1983 Toyota Tercel SR5. The car runs really well, however I have encountered a problem. When I accelerate there's this rattle-like sound that gets louder as I go faster. I was with my father and we had to speak louder to talk. He suggests that the noise is not in the engine but could be in the drivetrain. The noise is not changing with the engine RPM, just the car. It goes with the sound of the wheels; the faster I go, the sound gets louder. It sounds serious, but how? What are some of my options? Is it my drivetrain? Or my brakes?
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Got a 1995 Toyota Tercel. As the temps have dropped, I have started to use the heat again.
The heat comes on, but not nearly as warm as I remember. And now the temp gauge barely nudges - but does seem to nudge - above stone cold.
I checked the coolant today while the engine was cold. The reservoir is empty but the radiator is filled to the brim.
This isn't the first time this season it has been cold. My best recollection is that, until this week, the heater and the temp gauge had both been working fine.
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I have a 1993 Chevy G20 van that was starting intermittently and now won't start at all. It cranks but doesn't start. On one of the occasions that I actually got it started I went to have the battery and alternator tested and was told that the alternator was good but the battery was low.
I then bought a battery charger and attempted to charge it. It has not started since. It also will not jump. I have tried to listen for the fuel pump and I don't hear anything...of course that could be because I don't know what to listen for.
So my question is: what more should I check before I give up and get it towed? I just want to be sure that I'm not spending all that money for a tow when it was something easy like a relay or a battery issue. I have some mechanical knowledge but no where to apply it (i.e.: my vehicle is outdoors and I don't have a lot of tools or a decent jack).
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