Toyota - Tacoma :: V6 Whistle At Nearly A Constant Pitch While Not Braking
May 18, 2014
My 2003 Tacoma Pre-Runner V6 has started whistling at nearly a constant pitch which stops only when braking or after it has sat (not-running) for along period (hours). The whistle starts after the engine has been running for some time (10min +). I have been able to narrow down the whistle to the drivers side of the engine compartment but not any part in particular. I have checked the vacuum hose connected to the brake booster but is appears to be okay based on visual inspection. I have also briefly disconnected the vacuum hose (while pinching it shut) from the brake booster while the engine was running but the whistle persisted. When I stop the engine the whistle persists for about 20seconds before slowly fading and with my head under the hood I have heard a faint psst sound after it dies out. I have had not problems braking but do not want to start having braking issues. Any thoughts on troubleshooting this whistle?
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I have a 2008 VW GTI which I love and have maintained pretty well. I unexpectedly got a job far away from home and couldn't move for two years (!) so right now it has about 70,000 miles on it (poor thing.) Luckily I now live about 5 miles away from work and it's finally getting a rest.
Long story short is that the oil was overfilled during a routine oil change. Foolish me didn't check the oil before driving away (i didn't do the change!) I got about a mile or two before the oil pressure light and beep told me to shut off the car, which I did immediately, and pulled into a shop literally a block away. They bled out some oil and checked a few things out and everything looked fine. But as soon as I left, and to this day (about a month later) I get a strange whistling noise when the car is cold and at low RPM. It's a constant noise and the pitch changes with the RPM (higher RPM, higher pitch) after warming up for a minute it goes away and doesn't come back until the next time I start the car.
My guess is that oil got somewhere it shouldn't have, like the turbo? And now something is leaking, like air? The car drives fine, no stutters or significant loss of power. Is there a way I can diagnose the issue myself before taking it in? Or should I leave it be and let the professionals take a look?
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My 2007 Prius Touring creates high pitch Squeak/Whistle sound while accelerating and braking, But if I put the car on neutral then the sound completely goes away. I have all the holes covered on the both side mirrors and this still occurs. The sound is constant for as long as I accelerate and Brake and the intensity varies with how hard I accelerate or brake, It also does that during regen braking when I leave the accelerator.
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My 1998 2x4 2.4 cylinder tacoma truck (69k miles) is making a noise when idling or in any of the gears (5 spd) going down the road. The noise goes away when I barely touch/depress the clutch (depress about 1/2 to 1 inch). Any ideas what is making this sound? It's not a growl or rattle, but a very high pitch, whistling sound almost like a cross between a cricket, cicada and grass hopper.
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My 03 Tacoma TRD is showing her years! The truck has about 215k and has some serious vibrations and noises going on. First off I have a constant shaking type of vibration between 25 and 35 mph, but it is also present in the higher speeds of 55 and above but sometimes it gets drowned out. I work at a ski resort so when Im coming down the mtn using 3rd gear or so to slow down I feel the vibration is the most apparent then. So far I have had 2 shops look at my driveshaft and both concluded there is nothing wrong with the u joints. I had a CV shaft installed because one of the boots was torn so I went ahead and had that replaced.
What the vibration is.....2nd is more of a intervalled whooomping sound almost like a bullfrog-like interval. As I increase speed the intervals get faster but it is a drawn out whooomp whooomp not a fast sound. It actually rattles the change in my ash tray to the bpms of the sound. Also I have a metallic clunking sound happening when I put the truck in gear (manual) or start and stop at slow speeds without using the clutch. I was driving around a parking deck the other day in first gear and it would make the sound whenever i hit the gas AND when I let off the gas. ONE MORE THING, whenever I am starting off under load in any gear, the truck jerks.....it hesitates and lurches but only at low rpms and again in any gear.
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This is a 1996 Toyota Tacoma, 2WD, 2.4L. When I apply the brakes I get a very heavy vibration in the front end, almost like a wobble. The vehicle otherwise stops fine. No noises. The vibration occurs at pretty much any speed over 20 mph. The frequency does not seem tied to the actual speed but it's hard to tell for sure. It does not do it when I apply the emergency brake only.
I replaced the front disk brake pads, with new clips and shims. There were worn down pretty far and needed replacing. Unfortunately that did not make any difference in the vibration. Rotor runout and minumum thickness were checked while changing the disk brake pads and both were within specs. I did a quick inspection of the ball joints and tie rod ends by trying to move the tire and everything seems tight enough.
I'm not very proficient on suspension issues. What else can I look for.
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2005 Malibu LS 3.5L (Epsilon Body) with rear disk brakes. Do the rear disk brake pads have the wear indicators just like the front pads?
Car started making an intermittent low pitch whistle noise (sounds like an old steam locomotive whistle, just really low muffled) but it only does it while turning sharply on right turns. It doesn't come on while turning left or driving straight.
At first I suspected the fuel pump but I'm not sure. I've owned the car since 2008 and never replaced the rear brakes, so it might be time!
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For a while now, I have been hearing a very high pitch whistle noise from the turbo/exhaust area. Everybody told me it was an exhaust leak, but I never could pin point the leak. While I was under the truck last weekend I found the flex joint on the passenger side up pipe was broken a leaking.
I ordered a Dorman replacement pipe that comes with a new gasket and hardware.
I will be the first to admit, I am not a fan of Dorman parts... BUT, this pipe is really nice. It looks identical to the pipe being sold on Dieselsite.com, it doesn't have the scoop inside to direct exhaust gas to the EGR cooler and it comes with all the mounting hardware.
[URL] ....
Once I got the turbo down pipe out of the way and soaked the bolts with penetrating oil, I had the broken up pipe off in 30 minutes.
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My girlfriend has a 2001 Ford Escape 3L, 6cyl. When accelerating there is a loud high pitch whistle/whirling sound. The sound varies with the amount of throttle you give it. More throttle = louder whine. Doesn't seem to do it when idling or coasting. What that could be? I'm about to remove the belt and take a look at the drive belt tensioner and other pulleys.
Just checked pulleys and tensioner and the tensioner seems fine, a/c pulley spins smooth and free no play, alternator spins smooth no play. The belt needs to be replaced. I wouldn't think this would cause such a load whistle under acceleration. I would expect it to do it all the time if it was the belt. I'm looking at the water pump pulley and belt too and they seem ok as well.
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So I have a 1990 Ranger XLT 4x4, 2.9 v6. My issue is I am getting a loud constant whistle sound on the drivers side, just in front of the rear tire. It is not from the tire and it is a whistle not a whine. The truck is all stock nothing special. I do not have an exhaust anymore only a cat. Anyways the sound is constant an does not get louder or quieter while moving or in neutral it just stays the same. It just started in the last few days. Also the truck is a Manual.
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Actually above + an interesting mystery.. Late last spring I began hearing a noise of constant pitch (sounding like someone sanding wood) when the engine was cold---Louder when it was colder/cooler. As the engine warmed up the noise went away. Throughout the summer,No Noise. n. Late summer broken water pump replaced along with hoses/belts. No noise until, temps in AM in the 40's.
Now that same damn noise is back.Only LOUDER! Same pattern>>as engine warms noise softens and goes away. My ear suggests noise is coming from the tensioner pulley (But, I've been fooled before)As to the question above, Do I tighten the belt on 'This vehicle' using the tensioner pulley or do I have to use the "Pry the Alternator forward" method.? One last thing, while the noise is occurring it does get louder with acceleration but is soon blocked out by normal engine noise.
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During around town driving I am experiencing a faint high pitch whine when braking. This sound is not mechanical, but more electrical coming from the dash-engine area. It is very noticeable when slowing between 40 mph to 20mph.
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According to the manual the high pitch sound is to let driver know that the pads are worn out but i checked and my pad still very thick after 15k miles.?
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I'm on my 4th passat. Have an 08 Komfort. This by far is my most favorite of the 4 passats I've owned. This is the first VW I have had with satellite radio. I noticed not long after I got it that I could hear a high pitched beep that lasted maybe 3 or 4 seconds while I was listening to the satellite radio. It seemed to just happen at random times. I took it on a 500 mile trip a few weeks ago and I just figured out exactly when this happens............it happens when I hit the brakes while I am listening to sirius only. It doesn't happen while listening to FM or AM (I didn't try a CD). It doesn't do it every time, but at least 50% of the time. It almost always seems to happen if I have the cruise control on and I hit the brakes to disable it. I'm going to mention it to the dealer when I take it in for service.
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My 2007 Prius Touring creates high pitch Squeak/Whistle sound while accelerating and braking, But if I put the car on neutral then the sound completely goes away. I have all the holes covered on the both side mirrors and this still occurs. The sound is constant for as long as I accelerate and Brake and the intensity varies with how hard I accelerate or brake, It also does that during regen braking when I leave the accelerator. What could be wrong?
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I have a 2013 Tacoma TRD with 18k miles, totally stock after driving awhile intermittently the front left wheel has been locking up like I tapped the brake just on that wheel. I've taken it to Toyota and they cant duplicate the problem. This last weekend I drove several hundred miles and the right side started doing it about two to three seconds after the left side for about five minutes then ran fine. It actually makes a chirping noise and slightly jerks the wheel in that direction. This has only happened going over 65mph. Since Toyota claims to have never seen this problem there basically telling Me to drive the truck until it gets worse. They checked the brakes and bearings out.
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I've got a 1996 Tacoma - manual transmission, 4 cylinder, 2.7 liter engine with close to 170,000 miles on it - owned it for 10 years and 100,000 miles. Wonderful, great truck. Except.....
It has two starting problems and I can't seem to sort them out. The first is it's incredibly hard to start when the outside air is hot. Living in San Francisco, I usually forget about this problem until I drive to the central valley to visit my mom in August. Nothing like coming out of the rest stop, trying to start the engine and then having the feeling of doooh! again!. Seems to be worse when the outside air temp is over 85 or 90 degrees and the engine has been running than sits for 5-10 minutes. Cranks fine but won't catch. When it finally catches, it's like it's really slow to fire - can't quite explain it, but it's like it's doing a lot of thinking about actually running and has to talk itself into the idea. Can take 5-10 minutes to finally get it going, but usually 30 seconds to a minute. Always worried this'll be the time it doesn't want to go. My mechanic has looked at it a few times - but it's almost impossible to recreate in San Francisco when I get home due to the lack of warm days.
Second problem is trouble cold starting. When I come out in the morning, the engine takes two or three attempts to get it to start. Once it again, it cranks fine, but it's as if there's no fuel getting to the engine. If I just keep cranking, it won't fire but if I crank it, turn it off, crank it, turn it off and crank it again it'll always catch on the second or third go. Once the engine is at temp, it seems like less of a problem and easier starting. My mechanic say's "It's an old truck and it always starts eventually, so don't worry about it."
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I have a 1995 Toyota Tacoma with a manual transmission that will not go into gear. How can you tell if it is the clutch or the slave cylinder that is bad?
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I have a wobble in steering at 55 mph and have gone thru 2 sets of tires. After 1st set i changed front struts, no luck . When i rotate tires from rear to front it goes away for 6 months and tires start to wear wavy and wobble starts.
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My 97 toyota tacoma will not start. have fuel, changed plugs, has spark. still will not start.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Tacoma pickup. I bought it used in the spring of 2009. I drove it for a few months without any problems and one day this problem developed. It won't start on the first attempt. Or it will start and then immediately die. It will take two or three tries to get it running.
I took it in to my mechanic and he couldn't find anything wrong. I got a tune-up anyway and it drove like a champ. Until the next day when the problem came back. This persisted for a few weeks more and then went away.
This last summer it started happening again and continued up through October and went away again. I think the problem seems to happen when it's hot in the summer.
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