Toyota - Tacoma :: 2006 - Gauges On Dash Die And Engine Cuts Out
Apr 24, 2012
All the gauges on the dash will die for a second and the engine cuts out and the car jerks then it will come back on and everything is fine. Sometimes the gauges turn off completely and the car will die and will not start for several minutes. I will try to start the engine but it will not start until the dash lights come back on. The first time this happened to me I changed the air filter and the car ran fine for a month. So when it happened again I took my air filter out put it back in and again the car worked fine for a couple of weeks. Now, It doesn't work to mess with the air filter at all. The car is cutting out more and more.
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So my 2006 toyota tacoma prerunner v6 was working fine i could drive it a bit but after i changed the drive belt it starts and shuts off after 3-4 seconds. if you accelerate immediately after you turn it on then it wont stop till you stop accelerating...
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My airbag light came on in my 2006 Tacoma, had it fixed, as my dealer told me:
1. It would not deploy during a accident.
2. Could not get a inspection sticker.
3. It was not covered by my warranty.
4. It was diagnosed as a faulty spiral cable.
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I get a "dinging sound" like a warning when my truck is places in Four Wheel Dive Low. I do not hear the sound in 4 WD High. The sound will not stop and it makes things rather annoying when climbing up the huge hill leading out from my property. I check the Owner's Manual and it says nothing about a dinging sound; or at least I didn't find anything.
2006 Taco, Automatic, 127,000 miles
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I have a 2006 Jeep Commander. Periodically, and quite inconsistently, all the lights on the dash board flash on and off while simultaneously all the gauges drop to zero and the air stops blowing out from the vents. My car will continue to drive and all lights work along with the radio. This has happened while driving at 75 mph on the highway and my car will continue on as if nothing has happened. I know this isn't good, but completely baffled by it all. I have taken it to a Jeep dealer and they only saw there was a weak reading from my battery, but the battery isn't even two years old so I have yet to replace it.
I'm including a video I took while stopped at a light so you will see the RPM's drop down, but since I wasn't moving the MPH remains at zero.
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I have a 2006 Super Duty 6.0L, and I'm what are the two temperature gauges on the right side of the dash are? I'm sure one is engine temp, but what is the other one? Also, which gauge is which (in terms of top/bottom)?
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I have a 2006 2WD V6 Tacoma Pre Runner with 42,000 miles. The truck runs great, but has an annoying noise problem. After I drive the truck about 10 minutes, and slow down to stop or turn, I hear an odd noise that sounds like a rattle and grinding sound mixed together. It is a brief noise and goes away once I increase my speed above 20mph. Sometimes I hear the noise briefly after stopping and increasing the engine RPM. I checked the rear brakes and they are fine, I changed the differential fluid, there are no leaks. I inspected the exhaust system and it seems fine, Using a rubber mallet, I pounded on the cats and muffler and I hear very little noise. What is causing this problem.
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Have a 1995 Toyota Tacoma 4WD with around 230K miles. Recently, it has been 'skipping'. When we are driving or idling, it's like the engine sputters out and jerks along but it never stalls and always starts. Had it to dealer and another mechanic - plugged it in said it was catalytic converter and 02 sensor. We changed those, along with: plugs, wires, air filter, oil. That did not fix it. What this could be. Where else to start to look for this vehicle. It's been the greatest little truck.
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My 2012 Toyota Tacoma's engine knocks around 1500 rpm, going up hill and does it 100% of the time in the summer. This I attribute running the Air Conditioning, but don't know for sure. The vehicle manual states on page 569 that the vehicle can take 87 octane gas. Also on the same page, there is a statement that says: "You may occasionally notice a light knocking for a short time while accelerating or driving uphill. This is normal and there is no need for concern." This seems very strange to me, engine knocking normal? I don't get it.
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I replaced my fuel filter on my 2003 2.4L toyota tacoma 2wd. 65k miles. At the same time I checked the valves. No valve adjustment needed. Then i started hearing 4 to 6 rapid metallic clicks from the engine compartment when I start the engine cold. Clicking lasts 1 to 2 seconds. Sometimes happens when engine warm. This fuel filter is not original equipment.
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I have a 2003 toyota tacoma 4x4 with the 3.4l engine. Recently I have noticed that while accelerating I am losing power. I first noticed it would surge while going slowly uphill and since it has started happening all the time. I especially notice a serious dip in power during freeway acceleration at around 3000 rpm. The truck has 100000 miles on it. I have changed the plugs, run injector cleaner (the stuff you buy at the gas station), cleaned the throttle body, changed the air filter, and cleaned the mass airflow sensor. I have played a little with the throttle position sensor and that seems to have some affect on the timing of the surge but it is hard to tell. Of course toyota doesn't service the TPS for that year but rather try to sell you a new throttle body $1100.00!!! Could this be the catalytic converter or maybe a faulty injector? Also, I have not changed the timing belt yet.
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How long should I let my engine cool down before changing the spark plugs? I have a 2003 Toyota Tacoma 4cyl 2.4l. My drive home from work is about 10 miles and I would like to change my plugs after work but I am not sure how long I should wait before working on the vehicle.
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I bought a remfg denso starter for my 2000 toyota tacoma prerunner 3.4L V6. I spent hours without success trying to get the old starter out. Brought it to a shop and had the new one installed. When I do a cold start, there is a screech at the end when the engine catches that sounds exactly like starting a car that is already running. This happens on cold starts only. Warm starts work fine. Due to the fact that I bought this part separate, having to pay to have a new one installed again is annoying to say the least. I spent another 4 hours today trying to get it out without success. See YouTube link for video of the noise. It's actually the quietest one yet.
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'98 Regal LS. The car was parked with the engine running, and the doors locked spontaneously. Starting then, noticed that the fuel gauge and coolant temp gauge were pegged out.
Short somewhere? Could a bad BCM cause this?
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After having the rear axle seal replaced 3rd time, my 2004 Toyota makes a sound/noise behind the dash, drivers side, in the engine compartment. Noise is intermittent and only when braking. Hard to describe....electronic sound. Brake pedal feels like ABS system is kicking in. But no ABS light comes on. Mechanics all tell me, "when light comes on, bring it back". Had the brake system flushed today? Still makes the noise.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma that has a knock or ticking in cold weather. The problem starts sometimes immediately after I start and other times it is only when I press on the gas in the cold mornings after a few min warm up. The noise goes away after 10 min. The question I am wondering is this:
1: could it be worn piston rings and the pistons are slapping the cylinder wall
2: is it an oil pump problem or a oil restriction issue
3: is it a valve guide issue
4: with the history of the 2.7 having exhaust manifold issues (poor manufacturing) could a cracked manifold be the issue
I change the oil myself, the oil filters have been OEM toyota, the noise has been going on since 60,000 miles, the truck is at 230,000 miles.
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My 4 cylinder Tacoma vibrates a lot when it is idling, especially sitting in "drive" at traffic lights. My regular mechanic has tried various things to remedy it but none has really worked. He suggested the valves may need to be adjusted. Is this plausible? Or is he off-base? And is it really expensive?
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My 09 Tacoma 91000 miles- symptom: when idling with foot on the brake, on occasion, experiences engine pause/subtle forward sensation; otherwise drives superb. Service shop said the issue is remedied by replacing the drive shaft thereby switching out the "yoke" which is the source of the problem. Shop said this is a common problem with 09 Tacomas. Does this need immediate repair or can I drive safely?
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1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 180K 3.3L
I read other threads about the connections under the hood, both sides, which I unplugged and replugged. I also pulled the IOD fuse for a little bit. Then I removed the cluster and looked it over. Looked good to me.
Got code P1698 for manufacturers assembly control or something to that effect. Thought I checked all the usual culprits. The dash lights work fine, so does everything else. The dash gauges just don't work. This is something that has been an intermittent problem with the dash gauges going out periodically when hitting a bump. It leads me to believe a connection. But I checked all those.
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I have a 2011 Toyota tacoma with 35k miles. Yesterday while driving at about 70-75mph on the freeway with no warning the vehicle shut down and the engine light came on. It made a clunk about the the time it shut off, it wasn't very loud but I could feel it. I'n not sure if that noise was just the vehicle powering down or transmission kicking from the change in torque? I pulled off the freeway, there were no fluids leaking, serpentine belt was in place. The truck will turn over but not start. The check engine light flashes rapidly.
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05 Toyota Tacoma without traction control but has ABS. A few weeks ago I noticed the brake pedal felt mushy. I had my wife step on the brakes with the engine running. I could hear a swoosh of air coming from the rear of the engine near the firewall but more towards the passenger side. I did the following tests:
With engine off pump brake pedal and it built preassure and stayed firm.
With engine RUNNING held foot on brake and turned engine off. The brake pedal moved slowly to the floor.
Check the check valve in the brake booster and its good.
So, I replaced the Brake booster, bleed the air out of the master cylinder and bleed the brakes. Now it feels great for about the first 20min of driving but then goes soft again. and I'm still getting the swoosh of air escaping from somewhere in the same place as before.
I'm wondering if I have a vacuum leak somewhere before it goes into the brake booster? the connection is good where the vacuum hose comes from the engine to the brake booster. OR should I replaced the master cylinder?
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