Toyota - Tacoma :: 2004 - Vibration In Front End / Felt Through Floorboards And Steering Wheel
Aug 29, 2011
2004 Toyota Tacoma... I drive 40 miles each way to work daily and sometime, usually 20 minutes into the drive, I get a vibration in the front end and felt through the floorboards and steering wheel, that get progressively worse until the entire cab is shaking. It lasts approximately 10 minutes and then it stops only to happen again on the next drive. Wheels have been checked.
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2010 Corolla 1.8 automatic. Accelerating at highway speed (2800-3200) rpm a low frequency shudder/vibration is felt in the floorboards. Goes away of you let up off of gas pedal. No vibration at idle, runs fine all other times. Most noticeable when accelerating under load (ie going uphill) and at highway speed. Trans mount visually intact. Ditto engine mounts. Cv axles less than 1 year old no rattle upon shaking.
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I have a 2003 F150 manual 4WD with 4.6L engine and 165000 miles. When i am driving i feel a vibration in the steering wheel and on floor board that intensifies when i press the accelerator. I do hear an irregular humming that sounds like it is coming from the driver side front. I checked the wheel for any play but it was very tight. i check tie rod ends, ball joints no play. i recently changed both u-joints on the rear shaft and the bearing hub on the passenger side front. Also, the steering feels a little 'wobbly' when i make sharp turns. it almost feels like it is giving. What else should i check?
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I bought new tires for my 2005 Tacoma 4x4 and went up from 265's to 275's with some really nice Pirelli Scorpion ATR's, problem was, I started noticing some serious wobbling in both the steering wheel and the front end in general, it seemed to be at certain speeds. I had done some research online to find that some people had trouble with the balancing on those Scorpions so I naturally thought they needed to be rebalanced. But balance after balance, nothing seemed to improve. In total I went in for balancing 6 times! Even went to different places to make sure I didn't get a machine that was somehow calibrated wrong. I also took it in to the dealer and had them look at everything to make sure all was well with the truck, they said everything looked fine.
So my frustration finally came to a head last month when after another balancing the wobble was still there, and I decided to change out the tires thinking I just got a bad set. I test drove the truck right after changing the tires and could feel a little wobble so I took it back and they re-did the balance. Sadly that was rush hour and I couldn't get up to the speeds that I normally felt the wobble. (usually between 55-65mph) The day after switching the tires, (new tires are back to 265's Falken Ziex all season). At first I thought the wobbling was speed dependent; BUT after setting the cruise control on the open road at 72mph I started to notice that the wobble would come and go seemingly at random. I started thinking that it may be the road surface but put that theory to rest when I felt the wobble on brand new paving (yes, believe it! The wobble just seems to come and go even at the same speed and on seemingly similar surfaces. It's driving me crazy! I have to believe it's not the tires that are causing this, but since the dealer can't seem to reproduce the problem when they test drive.
So to summarize; the problem seemed to start when I got new tires a year ago, rebalancing 6 times did not solve the problem, put new tires on and still getting the wobble. It doesn't seem to be as dependent on speed or surface, although the worst of it happens in the 55-65mph range. (If I go faster it seems to smooth out, but we're talking 75+) The wobbling is felt and seen in the steering wheel and the front end of the truck. (my gut tells me it's coming from the front right of the vehicle). I even had them do an alignment so it's not that either.
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When I accelerate at 70+, I get a very noticeable vibration that is felt into the steering wheel and throughout the cabin. I have 14,000 miles on the car, so I seriously doubt that it's the CV joint. Could it be possible that I lost some wheel weights, and it's become imbalanced?
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I drive a 16 sonata sport with 2300 miles. Dealer says it is normal but at 80+ mph, there are vibrations that can be felt in the steering wheel and seats. At low speeds car is smooth but starts to shake at 80+.
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5.0L ... I'm having one of those moments, you know after you do a mod to your truck and all of a sudden you notice something about your truck that could have been there all along but now you notice it as something new? Ok earlier in the week I had my exhaust resonator removed and replaced with a straight-pipe by a reputable exhaust shop. IMO the work looks to be pretty good for what it is.
That said I have always been nervous about getting exhaust work on any vehicle because it always seems like tampering with or removing the OEM plumbing for aftermarket or custom work tends to develop a vibration at some point.
So here is what I've noticed over the last couple days, when driving my truck it is extremely smooth, almost like glass. When I come to a complete stop say at a traffic light about 1-2 seconds after making the complete stop I feel this slight harmonic vibration in the steering wheel. For those of you that have an iphone it would be like having your phone bolted to the steering shaft somewhere and it on constant vibration if that makes sense.
Just to prove it only happens when I'm sitting still and idling in (D)rive I sat in my driveway with the truck idling, set the park brake and released the brake pedal holding the truck in place in (D)rive with the parking brake. No vibration, smooth as glass engine idle, as soon as I put my foot back on the brake pedal the vibration comes back. It's as if the extra draw of applying the brakes puts an extra load on some sort of accesory drive or componant under the hood and the result is this harmonic vibration.
Just so everyone knows, the vibration is very noticeable to me because I drive the truck daily, most people wouldn't pick it out if I didn't tell them first. Case in point if my wife drives the truck she can't feel it unless I tell her what to look for. There are going to be some of you that just say my truck doesn't do this and has had a smooth idle for XX,XXX miles I believe you but let me know now that I have explained exactly what to look for. Like I said for all I know it's done this since day one.
I have a feeling that the straight pipe might have been welded in slightly longer than the oem section that was removed thus putting more tention on the exhaust and engine if that makes sense, the end result being a slight vibration?? I know that manufactures put these little rubber bushings along the exhaust system on cars/ truck to absorb harmonic vibrations and for all I know my resonator might have been designed to balance out harmonic vibes in the exhaust system as well as quiet down the exhaust.
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My 75 Corolla wagon (2T-C 4 speed, rear wheel drive) has developed a terrible shimmy that can be felt in the steering wheel and shifter, as well as the whole car. It only does this when I am in 3rd or 4th gear doing between 35-45 mph. Over the past few months this has gotten worse, and instead of being an intermittent thing (once a week or so) it happens every time I am in the 35-45 mph range.
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I recently bought a 1998 f-250, regular cab, long bed, 4x4, 5.4l triton, automatic. The truck was involved in a wreck by the previous owner and I am trying to repair the damage. He hit some ice, slid off the road, and collided with a log cabin.
The visible damage was done to the driver side front. The bumper, grill/surround, header panel, headlight, turn signal, fender, and hood all need to be replaced. When you drive the truck there is a shimmy coming from the front that can be felt in the steering wheel. When going straight and releasing the steering wheel it pulls to the passenger side. The driver side front rim might be bent? Which might prove interesting if I have to replace it (7x150mm).
This is my first Ford truck. I was willing to take the gamble on fixing it up. I hope that it works out and I am able to do so. What years/models can I source these parts from?
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05 Toyota Tacoma without traction control but has ABS. A few weeks ago I noticed the brake pedal felt mushy. I had my wife step on the brakes with the engine running. I could hear a swoosh of air coming from the rear of the engine near the firewall but more towards the passenger side. I did the following tests:
With engine off pump brake pedal and it built preassure and stayed firm.
With engine RUNNING held foot on brake and turned engine off. The brake pedal moved slowly to the floor.
Check the check valve in the brake booster and its good.
So, I replaced the Brake booster, bleed the air out of the master cylinder and bleed the brakes. Now it feels great for about the first 20min of driving but then goes soft again. and I'm still getting the swoosh of air escaping from somewhere in the same place as before.
I'm wondering if I have a vacuum leak somewhere before it goes into the brake booster? the connection is good where the vacuum hose comes from the engine to the brake booster. OR should I replaced the master cylinder?
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I have a 02 F250 4x4 5.4. As I drive and when pulling into a driveway I hear a clunk that can be felt in the floor and the steering wheel. I've replaced the wheel bearings and seals, shocks, ball joints, sway bar links and bushings, tie rod ends at the gear box and "right hand inner". The other two tie rods are tight and so is the track bar. I cannot duplicate the sound if I jack it up and move parts around with a pry bar. I can however move the steer box sector shaft upwards about an 1/8. I've adjusted the screw but it didn't do anything. Could it be the steer box or the springs? I've even mounted a GoPro underneath but everything moves and I can't tell why it is.
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I couldn't avoid seemingly a huge pothole when drove at night, and the sound was really awful. After that, I could feel vibration through the steering. The ride isn't the same anymore. What causing the problem? Try to get the car to the tires shop tomorrow. don't wanna bring it to the dealer. Bad experience when I tried to get an alignment after installed vwr lowering springs.
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I have a 98 Toyota corolla and every time I am moving and then I step on the brakes, the steering wheel starts to vibrate. I have changed the rotors, the break pads, the calipers and even changed the brake master cylinder...but still vibrates when I step on the brake pedal and I have done wheel alignment and balancing...
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I bought a 2010 toyota camry se. I have the most annoying vibration in the steering wheel, seats, gas pedal. Have taken it to several places, including a Toyota dealer.. They seem to not be able to find the cause. I've had wheels checked, balance, aligned, rotated. There is also an annoying clonking noise coming from the front passenger assembly. It's very sporadic as in only goes away when trying to have a technician hear it.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Echo which developed severe vibration feedback to the steering wheel when the car was driven at low speed or stopped at a traffic sign or signal.
I took the car to the Toyota dealer and they checked the brakes, replaced the front rotors. They also checked the fuel pump and other engine components. The spark plugs and PCV vale were replaced, as well as the crank seal.
When I left the garage, the vibration reappeared after driving about five minutes. I immediately went back to the garage and waited while the mechanic checked the car. He came to the waiting room and said I would not believe what they found. I went to the garage with him and the hood on the car was raised. He started the car and there was no unusual vibration.
He closed the hood and the vibration started again. The problem was that the underhood reinforcement panel had come unwelded (or unglued) and it was vibrating. A mechanic came from the body shop and put a sealer/filler at the loose spots, we let the car sit for a while, the mechanic said the sealer/filler would expand to close the gap, and I drove the car home. The vibration had stopped.
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My car is a 2000 corolla with 51k miles that I bought a couple of months ago.
It had the following problems:
Creaking noise from front drivers side when going over bumps
Steering wheel vibration when braking
Steering wheel vibration (slightly) at certain speeds
Very out of alignment
In august, I replaced the rotors, did a tire balance and alignment. The shop used a Hunter RoadForce balancer. They said that the front tires were bad so they put them in the rear.
After that, the steering wheel still vibrated slightly at certain speeds. Also, the front end would vibrate when the steering wheel vibrated. Also, when braking hard...the steering wheel would vibrate even though the rotors and pads were replaced.
Yesterday, I replaced the front struts/spring/mount...yet the drivers front still creaked over bumps. The strut change also caused the alignment to pull slightly to the left (only very slightly).
Today, I replaced the rear struts/spring/mount, both front ball joints, both front sway bar links.
This fixed ALL of the problems. The steering wheel is now perfect (even when braking), the creaking noise is completely gone. And best of all, the alignment seems to be correct as it no longer pulls from yesterday's front strut change.
Do I really need to replace the tires or even get an alignment? The alignment might be slightly out of spec but it does not pull to any side.
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T Limited. The 1st. problem is in the steering. Low speeds driving around a parking lot I hear steering knocking noise when turning the steering wheel in either direction.
2nd problem when going over a little rough bumpy roads sounds like the front drivers side wheel is going to fall off. allot of banging noise felt into the steering wheel.
3rd problem sometimes when driving I hear a metal pop sound coming from under the rear of the car.
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Had mine for 5K service and had them check alignment. Steering felt sluggish and wheel was a few degrees off center from the day it rolled off the lot.
Both front wheels had toe-in over 1/2". Makes you wonder if this is due to spring settling.
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Took my 2002 Kia Sedona mini van in this past weekend to have it checked out do to the vibration in the steering wheel and sever left turn in my front end when I let go of the steering wheel. Luckily I found out that it just needs an alignment really bad and 4 new tires as all four have issues. None of the four are in "dangerous" condition but need to be replaced. Problem is the cost to replace all 4 and due the alignment is outside of my budget. I can do the front two and the alignment this coming weekend and replace the other two next month. My question is will not replacing the back two impact on the alignment?
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2003 Toyota RAV4, approx 130K.
A month ago I put a new set of Goodyear tires on my RAV. I drive on the highway 35-40 miles each way to and from work every day. Immediately after the new tires go on, I notice a vibration from the steering wheel at highway speed, above 60 mph. I took the car back to the tire shop (an independent tire shop, not a chain) and asked them to rebalance the tires. They did, and I took the car home. Drive to work the next day, vibration is worse. Next day, my dad and I switch cars so he can take it in. The tire shop says the front end alignment is off, and adjusts it. Small improvement, but vibration is still there.
I took it in for the 3rd time this weekend, and they swap the front and back tires at my request, thinking this might isolate the problem. The shop also checks my struts and says they are ok. (I don't even know what struts are, but apparently they are ok.) Now the vibration has moved out of the steering wheel and is coming from the rear and the floor. It does not happen when I apply the brakes or am on city streets. What this would be? Bad tire or tires? Something else going on altogether? What should I ask them to do?
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I have a 2002 Ranger 2.3L 5spd w/ 16,000 miles. Have noticed this problem for 6 months, been to dealer 3 times now. They say nothing is wrong. What I am "feeling" more than hearing, is a slight knock in the steering wheel, particularly when driving over dips and mild to moderate bumps. This is usually when moving in a fairly straight line, not much tension on the wheel.
It reminds me of problems I had on much older cars/trucks when there was a loose shock/strut or play in a ball joint or tie rod. It is annoying because it feels like something is wrong. Dealer can't find anything. Perhaps something not installed properly that loosens and bumps/knocks into other components thereby transferring vibrations through the steering column?
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