My 2001 Tacoma drives well most of the time, but when in 4 wheel drive low range, low gear, in demanding circumstances like heavy snow, it will buck, jump, act like the clutch is alternately and rapidly grabbing and releasing (but I'm pretty sure it's not actually that). Tires are good. Four cylinder, standard transmission.
View 7 RepliesThe radio on my 2006 Toyota Tacoma will not stay on the station it will jump forward to static and sometimes back to the station or just jump off the station and stay till I press the button and put it back. What's up with this?
View 4 RepliesSo, I bought the truck used and everything about this truck is great minus the shifting difficulties in first. With the truck at a dead stop, the clutch depressed, and the shifter in neutral it can be near impossible to shift into 1st (it's possible with a lot - emphasis on a lot - of force). No grinding, clashing, knocking in the shift knob - it just wont go into gear. I can shift into 2nd-5th and reverse without too much difficulty. If the truck is in motion, once the vehicle gets between 2-5mph I can easily downshift into 1st. However, if I shift out of 1st and let the truck sit for, say, 5 seconds it is often very challenging to get the truck back into 1st.
I have tried to look up this problem online with limited success. What I found was it could be caused by:- something wrong with the clutch installation- a need to bleed the clutch (it's hydraulic and, although the reservoir is full, the fluid is a bit dirty)- perhaps a faulty clutch master cylinder- play in the clutch linkage- a broken spring in the pressure plate- a bearing that is starting to go out- worn synchros in 1st.
I am a machinist, not a mechanic, so it's hard for me to evaluate these ideas (beyond the cost associated with each). Given my limited knowledge of transmissions and my good mechanic friend's opinion, I think it's a broken spring in the pressure plate.
1990 Toyota Pickup 4x4 manual transmission. This is the original transmission in the truck, it has not been rebuilt (but has been maintained with regular fluid changes), and has a tad over 158,000 miles on it.
The fan clutch will come in and out rapidly when NOT in OD and pulling hills with the fifth-wheel attached. Replaced with a new aftermarket fan, then a new OE one. Then had the radiator pulled and all the bugs, etc. blown out. The condition has not changed at all. The original fan clutch was pretty sloppy. There are no codes, the trans fluid is nicely red, the engine does not overheat or even change temp when pulling hills. No check engine light ever. The truck is a 2001 F250 4 X 4 automatic extra cab with 7.3 engine without any modifications and runs perfect except for this. There are about 95k miles on odo. When we use overdrive on the flats, there is no issue.
View 12 RepliesMy 1999 Toyota Tacoma (Ext Cab, 4x4 TRD) has 162K miles and now the clutch pedal intermittently sticks to the floor. I have to pull it off the floor with my toes while driving and have also felt the pedal start to pull back towards the floor on its own while the truck is in gear.
I'm looking for some wisdom as a few blogs/websites point towards a master cylinder, others say the master and slave, and my local auto shop said I need to replace the entire clutch assembly and throttle bearing. My truck is no spring chicken anymore but I'd like to keep it running for a few more years...
The clutch on my 2003 Toyota Tacoma has been acting funny for a while. I have to pull the pedal back up with the top of my foot about half the time, otherwise it acts like the clutch isn't all the way disengaged when I push the pedal to the floor. The master and slave cylinders have both been replaced as well as the clutch pedal mechanism itself (thought it might be the spring). I adjusted the push rod a little bit and it seems to have worked slightly but it's definitely still a problem.
View 3 Replies2000 Mercedes A-class, currently 190 Km, purchased 7 years ago with 90Km, all maintenance on time, as recommended.
If the car sits a day, no problem. If it sits a few days, then when releasing the brake and trying to move, the car lurches a bit. The longer it sits, the worse it seems.
Is this the back drums, as the dealer tells us, or is something else wrong?
This is a Ford Escape XLT with the 3.0L V6. I get the following codes - P0316 P0300 P0136 P0305 P0306. Sometimes it runs just fine and sometimes it misses and bucks and jumps. It has been taken to a local shop and they said they found a loose ground at the computer. They said they corrected this and it should run fine. It still shows the same codes and runs like it did before they worked on it.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2007 Tacoma 4 cylinder 5 speed. The clutch pedal started sticking about a month ago and has only happened a hand full of times. When the pedal is pushed to the floor it would stick, I thought it was hanging up on the floor mat at first but that was not the case. I went out to move the truck today and the pedal immediately stuck to the floor. Like usual I tapped the pedal kind of on the side to get it to release. the pedal then came back up. But now it wont push back in at all!!! There is only 1/2" of travel on the pedal and stops solid. It's like it is binding up on something. The spring seems to be in place the right way and nothing that I can see obviously wrong.
View 4 RepliesOk so I took my R out to look track to get some 1/4mile passes in. Didn't do anything out of the norm. Took my first pass and noticed that much clutch pedal wasn't feeling right. It wasn't grabbing like it usually does, it was grabbing close to the floor. I took it out of gear and pumped the clutch peddle a few times and then it grabbed like it normally would. I've never had something like this happen in any of my VWs or any other car. What may have happened? I was thinking maybe a slave cylinder issue?
View 7 RepliesI bought a used accent 1.3 before few months , with 100k miles on the clock. I did all the basic maintenance stuff, oils, filters, spark plugs, coolant, timing belt etc... I replaced the clutch disc also, because it was slipping.
The problem is that the clutch engage with a knock sound, just like when you have a loose engine mount. But... if i stay with clutch pedal pressed for a second, do the shift and released, the clutch engage smooth and all works fine. So, that's the way I do shifts for now.. Is this a flyweel problem?
I am purchasing a car on eBay which was stated to have the following problem: "the clutch is grabbing very very low it does not slip i think it is just the hydraulics? ". When I asked if I would need to have it serviced in order to drive it 1500 miles back home ( which in my mind meant an oil change), their response was that I would need to have the master cylinder replaced in order to drive it that far...
View 13 RepliesAfter taking my 2001 Toyota Tacoma into my Toyota dealer for a routine oil change they informed me that I had a leaky valve cover gasket and that it needed to be replaced. The repair would have been expensive, and since it was just a leak I decided to not make the repair. I have been driving with the "leak" since May of 2013 and have put about 29,000 miles on the truck. I have never had to add oil. There is no oil spot on the concrete where I park the car and I do not smell burning oil when the truck is running. If this thing is leaking, what the heck is leaking out of it? And if I haven't had to add oil or any other fluids do I even need to replace it?
View 14 RepliesI drive a 2001 Toyota Tacoma 5 Speed manual and as recently as last Friday it seems to have developed a problem with third gear. Occasionally the gearshift will actually pop out of third gear back into neutral. It has happened randomly, but also it has happened at least once when I hit a rather large bump, it seemed to have literally knocked it loose from third gear. On one occasion I tested to see if I could pull it out of third gear without stepping on the clutch, and it worked once, but I have tried it again and it doesn't always let me.
To counter this problem I have been just pushing on the stick all the while in third gear to prevent it from popping out and that seems to work, but I'd like to find a real fix for it, and as usual, if possible, a cheap one.
I have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma that has a knock or ticking in cold weather. The problem starts sometimes immediately after I start and other times it is only when I press on the gas in the cold mornings after a few min warm up. The noise goes away after 10 min. The question I am wondering is this:
1: could it be worn piston rings and the pistons are slapping the cylinder wall
2: is it an oil pump problem or a oil restriction issue
3: is it a valve guide issue
4: with the history of the 2.7 having exhaust manifold issues (poor manufacturing) could a cracked manifold be the issue
I change the oil myself, the oil filters have been OEM toyota, the noise has been going on since 60,000 miles, the truck is at 230,000 miles.
I've A Problem With My Car Nissan Tiida 2007
When In First Gear While Releasing The Clutch The Car Shakes
And If I Didn't Release It Fast The Engine Will Stall
97 F150 4.9 200xxx 5 Speed .....
I'm having an issue with my truck. It only seems to happen during warm 80+ weather. In the mornings, and during colder weather, the truck runs perfectly.
My problem is; Every time I go to get going and feather the clutch, either in 1st or reverse, my truck bucks wildly.
I changed the plug wires about 500 miles ago, and am about 4000 miles on a rebuilt engine (plugs as well) and new clutch/resurfaced flywheel. The clutch reservoir is full and I haven't noticed any leaks. There have been no codes thrown.
Could it be a possible fuel problem? I think I changed the fuel filter about 7k-10k miles ago.
I was also wondering if the Gotts mod could be causing it. I did the mod during the winter time, and this is my first summer with it on. My air filter is fine.
I've been having some issues with my car lately, 2012 Accent 1.6 manual transmission 36,000km aprox. The RPM climbs after I release the clutch, for example I'm going from 1st gear to 2nd, or 2nd to 3rd or any change of gears around 2,500rpm and when I release the clutch the RPM climbs to 2,800 or so and stays like that a couple of seconds, today the RPM climbed from 2,500 to 3,000-3,200 and stayed like that again for a couple of seconds.
View 5 RepliesI have an 2007 Toyota Prius and in the mornings, especially if it is humid or moist outside, my brakes grab badly during the first couple of stops....it's bad enough to make somebody run into the back of me. When it happens, you will also hear a screeching noise coming from the (sounds like ) rear brake, passenger side. I have taken the car to the local garage twice and they found nothing wrong. I have taken it to the local Toyota dealer 3 times and likewise, they found nothing wrong either.
View 3 RepliesI have done some research, but have found no one with the same noise as I am having. My clutch is creaking when pushing in and releasing the clutch. It does not sound like it is coming from the pedal. I have had a new clutch and transmission replace within the past 18 months. Someone mentioned the creak could be "dust on the slave cylinder." What this could be? Should I be worried? It shifts perfectly find and rides fine.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Prius with 130,000 miles on it. I plan to trade in about a year, maybe a little less. I have noticed my brakes grabbing. My mechanic says that the front brakes are sort of grinding and the rear brakes are grabbing. Both are worn, the rear brakes to about 30%, front brakes to 60%. They also say they will probably last out the year. Should I put new brakes on to be safe and to be able to sell the car with new brakes, or should I just wait it out and trade it in with worn brakes?
View 6 Replies