I have a 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4X4 pickup that is running terrible at any RPM under 1800. It is also bad under acceleration at any RPM, or when the a/c is on. The truck is showing no problem codes at all. I have been throwing parts at it with no success. I have replaced in order - the air cleaner, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, and even the timing belt.
View 2 RepliesI am still trying to debug my 7.3 running sluggish in the 1200-1800 rpm range. The problem is intermittent. I checked the wiring harness under the valve covers to verify they are plugged in and there are no opens in the circuit. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and the high pressure oil sensor.
This will run fine one time and a few miles down the road it will chug and smoke out the exhaust until I either get into the accelerator or back off and re press the accelerator. Again, it does it intermittently hot or cold.
I ran both a cylinder contribution test and perdels with a Snap On Verus. The cct passes everytime. The perdels have a couple of cylinders 5-6 and 8 fluctuate between 0 and 1.80% with #8 up to 2.5%.
My question is. Do the cylinders in the test correspond to the actual cylinders in the engine? Reason I am asking is the Verus does not follow the firing order on a gas engine. The cct is in order of 1-8 and I have to correlate the cct order to the firing order. Found this out the hard way when I had a bat cop on a 5.4 and replaced it only to have the same cylinder still show not firing.
I got out the graph leads and tested the cylinder and pulled the injector thinking it was bad. Everything showed good but the cct still showed it not firing. I had to unplug each coil and watch the cct to determine what the true cylinder in the test was. It turned out to mimic the firing order so I am asking out of concern that cylinder 3 in the perdels is really cylinder 3 or a different cylinder.
Btw, the perdels all show 0% if the transmission is in drive. I would have thought that a load on the engine would have showed higher perdel percentages with a load on it.
I have a 1999 Toyota Tacoma pickup, 5 speed stick 4 cylinder. When I first start it up it runs at a lower idle than it should. But as soon as it warms up just a bit the idle goes to about 12-15K rpm. Also, when it sits during the day and it's warm outside it will start up with the fast idle.
I don't know if this is coincidence or not but, I found a rabbit sleeping under the hood during the winter (this has been going on for a while). The rabbit chewed through a vacuum hose and a spark plug wire. The vacuum hose was split right by the fitting so I just cut off the 1 1/2" of tubing and re-attached it. The spark plug wire I didn't know was damaged until I drove it for about 5 miles or so when I finally got out to see why it was still running bad. I then had to drive another 5 or so miles to the auto parts store to replace it. I have replaced all the spark plug wires just to be sure. What this would be?
I have a 1999 Toyota Tacoma manual shift and when driving with the air conditioning on my truck makes an odd noise. The noise is very sporatic but seems to happen most at about 50MPH and 70MPH. I am going to try and type out the sound...."Chht" It is quick and only happens once at a time. The power of the engine drops when it happens as though it may cut out. But it is very quick.
View 1 RepliesA couple of days ago I removed the key from my 1999 Toyota Tacoma (175,000 mies)and the power stayed on. Specifically, the ignition was in the proper "Lock" position when the key was removed, but the radio continued to play and the dash clock stayed lit.
Normally, prior to this change, the radio turns off with the ignition being rotated to "Lock" and the clock LED turns off. There hasn't been any abnormal force applied to the ignition. As well, I haven't noticed any other electrical issues, but it still is operating in this abnormal way.
After 175,000 miles worth of starts has my ignition switch worn to the point of "shorting on"?
A couple of years ago I began to hear a high-pitched, metallic, chirping/chittering/rustling noise - sort of like tiny birds or insects - coming from somewhere behind me in my 1999 Toyota Tacoma pickup. The sound would only occur at speeds between about 30 and 55 mph, and would become louder after a long period of driving.
Pressing down the accelerator would bring it on, but it would be loudest and chirpiest during the act of letting up on the accelerator. Coasting down a mountain road with my foot off the gas after a long day of driving made it very loud!
I've had a couple of mechanics listen to it (one elderly car guy couldn't hear sounds that high-pitched) and have sat my brother in the back of the truck to try to figure out where it's coming from. The noise is still there, and can occur at lower speeds than formerly. In fact it's there pretty continuously above about 15 mph, but still varies with acceleration as above.
My 1999 Toyota Tacoma (Ext Cab, 4x4 TRD) has 162K miles and now the clutch pedal intermittently sticks to the floor. I have to pull it off the floor with my toes while driving and have also felt the pedal start to pull back towards the floor on its own while the truck is in gear.
I'm looking for some wisdom as a few blogs/websites point towards a master cylinder, others say the master and slave, and my local auto shop said I need to replace the entire clutch assembly and throttle bearing. My truck is no spring chicken anymore but I'd like to keep it running for a few more years...
I have a 1999 toyota tacoma 70,000/mi. While idling, at random intervals, truck surges forward. Have to stay on the brake. Cannot drive in winter. Took to Toyota dealer and other mechanics... described problem and that A/C seems to be on all the time. No one has been able to fix. My brother disconnected the A/C and surging has stopped, but I need a better fix that will allow my using AC.
View 4 RepliesHad a tune-up and a mechanic also looked at the accelerator pedalfor some reason, but no report regarding the fuel injection or regulatory components which I suppose should have signaled an issue when the computer diagnostic was run if I am to understand the mechanic's position.
View 2 RepliesI installed a new engine in my pre runner. upon completion and a thorough check of fluids connections and such we lite it off ran beautiful and everything seemed to function.Put the hood back on and installed the skid plates and got ready to pull it out of the garage that's when things went pear shaped!!!My son fired it up it ran for a few seconds then shut its self off. the idiot lights would stay on even after you turn off the key and remove it.
Put the key back in turn it to run but not to start position and that will reset everything. the only thing un effected is the door lights. if the key is in it you can step on the brake and the ac clutch comes in and everything goes goofy. turn the key off then back on and try any function be it headlights ac brakes pedal or attempting to start and it goes all goofy. Where to start looking. Ran great for an hour before all of this started.
At least that's when I notice it,... right in that range, seems the car hesitates and then starts up again and hesitates,... and you can see the tachometer go up to around 2 k and then down to 1600 rpm,.. but I am not accelerating with the gas peddle. Thoughts on what is causing this..
View 2 RepliesI have a 2013 Tacoma TRD with 18k miles, totally stock after driving awhile intermittently the front left wheel has been locking up like I tapped the brake just on that wheel. I've taken it to Toyota and they cant duplicate the problem. This last weekend I drove several hundred miles and the right side started doing it about two to three seconds after the left side for about five minutes then ran fine. It actually makes a chirping noise and slightly jerks the wheel in that direction. This has only happened going over 65mph. Since Toyota claims to have never seen this problem there basically telling Me to drive the truck until it gets worse. They checked the brakes and bearings out.
View 1 RepliesI've got a 1996 Tacoma - manual transmission, 4 cylinder, 2.7 liter engine with close to 170,000 miles on it - owned it for 10 years and 100,000 miles. Wonderful, great truck. Except.....
It has two starting problems and I can't seem to sort them out. The first is it's incredibly hard to start when the outside air is hot. Living in San Francisco, I usually forget about this problem until I drive to the central valley to visit my mom in August. Nothing like coming out of the rest stop, trying to start the engine and then having the feeling of doooh! again!. Seems to be worse when the outside air temp is over 85 or 90 degrees and the engine has been running than sits for 5-10 minutes. Cranks fine but won't catch. When it finally catches, it's like it's really slow to fire - can't quite explain it, but it's like it's doing a lot of thinking about actually running and has to talk itself into the idea. Can take 5-10 minutes to finally get it going, but usually 30 seconds to a minute. Always worried this'll be the time it doesn't want to go. My mechanic has looked at it a few times - but it's almost impossible to recreate in San Francisco when I get home due to the lack of warm days.
Second problem is trouble cold starting. When I come out in the morning, the engine takes two or three attempts to get it to start. Once it again, it cranks fine, but it's as if there's no fuel getting to the engine. If I just keep cranking, it won't fire but if I crank it, turn it off, crank it, turn it off and crank it again it'll always catch on the second or third go. Once the engine is at temp, it seems like less of a problem and easier starting. My mechanic say's "It's an old truck and it always starts eventually, so don't worry about it."
I have a 1995 Toyota Tacoma with a manual transmission that will not go into gear. How can you tell if it is the clutch or the slave cylinder that is bad?
View 2 RepliesI have a wobble in steering at 55 mph and have gone thru 2 sets of tires. After 1st set i changed front struts, no luck . When i rotate tires from rear to front it goes away for 6 months and tires start to wear wavy and wobble starts.
View 3 RepliesMy 97 toyota tacoma will not start. have fuel, changed plugs, has spark. still will not start.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Toyota Tacoma pickup. I bought it used in the spring of 2009. I drove it for a few months without any problems and one day this problem developed. It won't start on the first attempt. Or it will start and then immediately die. It will take two or three tries to get it running.
I took it in to my mechanic and he couldn't find anything wrong. I got a tune-up anyway and it drove like a champ. Until the next day when the problem came back. This persisted for a few weeks more and then went away.
This last summer it started happening again and continued up through October and went away again. I think the problem seems to happen when it's hot in the summer.
My 2002 Tacoma has recently been experiencing transmission trouble. Between 45-60 MPH at various revs, the truck begins to shudder and shake. The severity depends on how aggressively I accelerate. After several weeks of this, the check engine light came on. It has remained on since, except when it flashes if I accelerate too quickly. Throughout the shuddering, the revs remain constant. By roughly 60-70 mph, the truck runs smoothly again. In a (possibly) unrelated note, the parking brake indicator is lit almost constantly, particularly in wet or cold weather, although the brake is not engaged.
View 7 RepliesI just bought a 2003 Tacoma 2.4l engine and it has terrible gas mileage.I haven't checked the numbers yet, drive for but it cost medrive for 2 hours. Where do I start looking? The air filter is clean, the tires have plenty of air.
View 5 RepliesI changed the coil on cylinder 4 on my 2004 V6 Tacoma and the p0304 code keeps coming back along with the hesitation and missing when I accelerate. The wires were replaced a month ago. What now?
View 3 RepliesMy 1987 Toyota motorhome has an inconsistent shimmy which starts between 47 and 55 mph. This is a one ton chassis. I replaced the front tires and had them balanced.An independent mechanic said that everything was tight and could not find the problem. I took it to Toyota and they also said everything was tight. They checked steering, suspension, wheel bearings, brakes, and U joints. When the shimmy starts, accelerating or decelerating does not stop the shimmy.At one time I took it rapidly from 55mph down to a full stop. As I slowed the shimmy and thumping got more intense all the way down to a dead stop.The shimmy will start on smooth, even pavement and hitting bumps does NOT seem to start the shimmy.The RV has 75000 miles on it.
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