Toyota - Tacoma :: 1997 - Brake Light Will Not Turn Off
Jul 7, 2011
I have a 1997 toyota tacoma. The truck runs great. Last year I replaced the front calipers and breakpads. I drive the truck maybe 3,000 miles per year. The issue I have is that the brake light will not turn off. I checked the hand brake and it works fine. The switch on the handbrake is fine too. The really unusual thing is that randomly it will turn off. usually around 30-40MPH or when I have slammed on the brake. The brake fluid is fine. Is there a sensor in the rear on the rear pads that I may need to replace?
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Passenger side brake light is not working. Bulb is fine. Seems that the "plunger action" in the socket may be lacking. I put some WD in there.....worked for a day or so....now not working. Can I replace this socket or do I need an entire lens assembly?
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Brake pedal goes to floor with no resistance first time I start in am. Rest of day all normal. Started when cold weather came. Fluid ok, no leaks seen.
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My brake pedal is sticking down every time I push it in. I tried replacing the spring that was in there with a stronger one and sprayed the whole unit down with an all purpose silicon lubricant. It seemed to work a little but the problem is far from solved. It seems like it is sticking somewhere further away from the pedal. Master Cylinder maybe? I selected Tacoma because it's the closest option to my truck, but it's actually a 77 pickup/hilux.
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I have a '97 Toyota Tacoma, two-wheel drive. It has 154,000 miles on it. During the last three weeks, there's been a hesitation/ stumbling sensation happening occasionally in the first three gears. It doesn't happen in 4th or on the freeway. At first, I thought it felt more like a "slipping", like a clutch going bad (since I still have the original clutch).
I had my mechanic check it out, and it's fine. Here's a brief history of recent work done. Three months ago: injectors removed and cleaned out on a special machine. I replaced the cap & rotor and spark plugs. The wires were replaced last year. I replaced the fuel filter and PCV valve. I cleaned out and replenished my K&N air filter. Last week, I checked the connections where the spark plug wires connect to the cap. They seem fine.
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We religiously wear seat belts on the road. BUT, on my 4WD Tacoma, driving around a farm they are not needed. Can you simply unplug the underseat sensor to defeat the annoying chime and yet not disable the airbag system?
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I own an '05 Prerunner with 56k miles. Had the front pads replaced and turned the rotors last Spring.
Now, after sitting for awhile, as I back up the front brakes squeal. (Sounds like a rock in a caliper its so loud.)
Toyota has a TSB to fix this.
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My 09 Tacoma 91000 miles- symptom: when idling with foot on the brake, on occasion, experiences engine pause/subtle forward sensation; otherwise drives superb. Service shop said the issue is remedied by replacing the drive shaft thereby switching out the "yoke" which is the source of the problem. Shop said this is a common problem with 09 Tacomas. Does this need immediate repair or can I drive safely?
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My Tacoma makes very loud roaring and whistling noises mostly when I am idle and the brake is engaged while the clutch is depressed. Sometimes, she'll rear and balk continuously --- even more loudly --- depending on the outside temperature and her level of activity. I need to get her fixed, but live in the New York City area and am a broke graduate student terrified of getting ripped off. Do you think it's just belts? My transmission (sometimes I can feel the noise in my gear shifter)?
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05 Toyota Tacoma without traction control but has ABS. A few weeks ago I noticed the brake pedal felt mushy. I had my wife step on the brakes with the engine running. I could hear a swoosh of air coming from the rear of the engine near the firewall but more towards the passenger side. I did the following tests:
With engine off pump brake pedal and it built preassure and stayed firm.
With engine RUNNING held foot on brake and turned engine off. The brake pedal moved slowly to the floor.
Check the check valve in the brake booster and its good.
So, I replaced the Brake booster, bleed the air out of the master cylinder and bleed the brakes. Now it feels great for about the first 20min of driving but then goes soft again. and I'm still getting the swoosh of air escaping from somewhere in the same place as before.
I'm wondering if I have a vacuum leak somewhere before it goes into the brake booster? the connection is good where the vacuum hose comes from the engine to the brake booster. OR should I replaced the master cylinder?
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I have a 1997 Toyota Tacoma 3.4L ... After having some problems a week ago with the truck dieing at every stop sign or any time my foot wasn't on the gas. Eventually the truck would not start at all. I finally got a CEL that gave me P3040 (Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction) So I changed out the sensor and the truck fired right up and ran for 3 days.. Now the truck does not start again and I am getting the same CEL code.
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I own a 2005 Toyota prius and when I turn on the car, all the lights on the dashboard turn on but when the e-brake won't turn on when I put the e-brake on.
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My airbag light came on in my 2006 Tacoma, had it fixed, as my dealer told me:
1. It would not deploy during a accident.
2. Could not get a inspection sticker.
3. It was not covered by my warranty.
4. It was diagnosed as a faulty spiral cable.
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98 F150. Failed inspection for the dash brake light not coming on when you turn the key on. It comes on with the park brake set. Should it come on with key on as a bulb test?
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I have a 1997 F150 5.4L 2wd long bed w/ tow package.
Right (passenger) turn signal/brake light is not illuminating. The tail light on the right side does illuminate when headlights are on. (Same Bulb) All other lights are functioning properly.
When the MFS is in the right turn position the right arrow on the dash flashes and clicks faster than normal.
This happened about a month ago and it turned out to be a blown fuse. The fuse was for the trailer lighting and right turn/stop light, found in the small fuse box under the hood that only holds 2 fuses. Problem solved temporarily...
Now the issue is back, Here are some things I've tried so far:
Replaced the fuse again; Turns out the fuse didn't blow this time, but I tried a new one anyway.
Cleaned the ground for the rear light wiring harness.
Replaced the bulb.
Replaced the relay.
Checked continuity on multi-function switch, right turn position reads 2.8 ohms IIRC
Repaired pin #5 on the multi-function switch wiring connector (wire backed out, right turn related)
Replaced the bulb socket.
Inspected the wiring for broken insulation/exposed wires from that socket to under the hood, didn't find anything exposed. All wires are still in the loom.
I replaced this wiring harness and wiring looms about 6 months ago because the previous owner had done a hideous splice job for unknown reasons, so it should be ok. Should I get a new multi-function switch, or try something else? If the switch doesn't work what's the next step?
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I took my truck in because the tire pressure monitor light was on. I tried resetting it and that didn't work. I took the truck to the tire store where I purchased the tires. They checked all the sensors with test equipment and 4 out of 5 were bad. So I had them replace all the sensors including the spare. The light is still on. I followed the reset procedure and confirmed all 5 tires were at 32 psi. when I perform the reset the light blinks once and then stays on. What Now?
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After having the rear axle seal replaced 3rd time, my 2004 Toyota makes a sound/noise behind the dash, drivers side, in the engine compartment. Noise is intermittent and only when braking. Hard to describe....electronic sound. Brake pedal feels like ABS system is kicking in. But no ABS light comes on. Mechanics all tell me, "when light comes on, bring it back". Had the brake system flushed today? Still makes the noise.
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I installed a new engine in my pre runner. upon completion and a thorough check of fluids connections and such we lite it off ran beautiful and everything seemed to function.Put the hood back on and installed the skid plates and got ready to pull it out of the garage that's when things went pear shaped!!!My son fired it up it ran for a few seconds then shut its self off. the idiot lights would stay on even after you turn off the key and remove it.
Put the key back in turn it to run but not to start position and that will reset everything. the only thing un effected is the door lights. if the key is in it you can step on the brake and the ac clutch comes in and everything goes goofy. turn the key off then back on and try any function be it headlights ac brakes pedal or attempting to start and it goes all goofy. Where to start looking. Ran great for an hour before all of this started.
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I have checked all wires for krosion and fuse's are good so confused! Just put brand new tail lights bulbs in! The top one comes on as a running light but nothing else works. I also checked under hood fuses too!
1.Only Hazard light that works is on the Right Front passenger side.
2 Drivers side Brake Light & Turn Signal Doesn't Work. But passenger works fine! Left turn signal is out and blinks really fast!
3.Passenger Side Overhead Outside Light on cab is out . Okay that's probably just a bulb!
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I have a 2011 Toyota tacoma with 35k miles. Yesterday while driving at about 70-75mph on the freeway with no warning the vehicle shut down and the engine light came on. It made a clunk about the the time it shut off, it wasn't very loud but I could feel it. I'n not sure if that noise was just the vehicle powering down or transmission kicking from the change in torque? I pulled off the freeway, there were no fluids leaking, serpentine belt was in place. The truck will turn over but not start. The check engine light flashes rapidly.
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Every morning when i leave to work my brake light begins to turn on, when i go over a bump or brake it shuts off. But only happens in the mornings when my car sits over night or long periods of time . What is the cause of this and how can it be replaced?
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