Toyota - Surf Hilux :: 1994 - Quits Shifting When Car Is Running
May 18, 2012
I have a 1994 Toyota Surf Hilux. Lately the manuel gear has quit shifting while the car is on. I can correct it by shutting the car off and then it shifts perfectly. This started out as an intermittent problem but is getting increasingly worse. It happens every day now. Trust me, this is very dangerous not to be able to shift while in African traffic. I don't want to take it to a mechanic here because they aren't usually trustworthy - they will fix all kinds of problems that I don't have and I can't afford to have my car tied up for weeks with no results. I have a friend who might be able to fix it if we can ascertain the problem but it is pretty confusing as to what the problem might be. The clutch was replaced a year ago.
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After I release my handbrake and drive off, the vibration of driving causes my handbrake to slide out just enough to trigger the brake light to come on. The brake works fine I checked at the drums. It just slides out enough to trigger this light. As I drive I have to keep pushing it in, the light goes off but after a bit it goes on again and I keep pushing it in, evidently it keeps sliding out enough to keep triggering the light. I tried spraying the release and down the chute, sliding it in and out, with 3 and 1 oil and WD 40 but nothing seems to stop this annoying problem. I know there's nothing wrong with it but I can't get it to stop and I know it's just the vibration of driving that causes it to slip out just enough to trigger it.
Next month I have the NJ State inspection, and if they see the light, they're going to fail it when there's really nothing wrong with it.
1986 Toyota Hilux half ton 5 speed stick with the 22 R engine over 225K
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My 94 Toyota Corolla has about 190,000 miles on it and lately it has had a hard time shifting between 20-30mph. It finally does reach it and does not have trouble shifting at any other speeds. This only happens in the heat of the afternoon (Never have this problem in the morning). Also, my O/D light has been flashing when this happens, or at least around the time it happens. Could these two problems be linked? I took it to my mechanic in the morning and he checked the transmission fluid and it seemed fine, he also had no problems driving around when he tested the car. He said my transmission is going and that I should make "long term" plans. Is there any hope?
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I have a 94 Camry 2.2. When I am driving 45 MPH the transmissions acts like it is shifting into N or OD and then the RPMS fluctuate between idle and 1500 or so. Then when I it will shift hard because the car has decelerated. If I stay in the throttle during this it just jerks or lunges.
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I have a 2010 Chrysler Sebring that in the past month will all of a sudden quit running. Had to the dealership twice in past month. New plugs, injectors cleaned. Got car out of shop yesterday and drove 6 miles and it quit twice again. Too late to take back to dealer. They have checked it out twice on monitor and all they said was what they did to repair. It seems to me that it is a fuel problem. Maybe a fuel pump, fuel filter, or dirt in the fuel itself. Will have to take back to dealer Monday. What do you think is the problem. Not missing or ideling rough. Runs good, but will all of a sudden quit.
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Car:2000 Buick Regal54,000 miles3.8 V6, Vin K
Problem:The engine quits running. Idle, part throttle, moving, stopped, open or closed loop doesn't matter. Sometimes it will re-fire immediately, other times it may take a dozen or more attempts.
There is no MIL, and my TECH 2 is finding no issues.
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I have a 1994 Ford 460 motorhome with a intank fuel pump that quits when it gets hot. so I was thing of butting a heavy duty in line pump on and just pull it through the old pump can this be done safely. Or is it best to drop the tank and just put a new fuel pump in.
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The 1997 Saturn SC2 is new to me. It was delivered to my home after purchase and died. The car had been sitting for a while and was suggested by previous owner that it was the battery. After having charged the battery, she ran for about 5 mins and stopped. I was also informed that the fuel line sometimes would disconnect, but that is not the case now.
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My 1993 Dodge Dakota quits running at any time, from right after start-up to going down the road. It wont start running again until the check engine light comes on when the ignition is turned on. I can sit there from a few seconds to five minutes before the check engine light comes on. I have cycled the key three times to check for a code, but there are none. I have checked much of the wiring to the relays and some to the PCM, but have found nothing wrong. This truck did the same thing with the two previous owners, and had the PCM replaced, to no avail.
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My engine suddenly stops while driving. There is no warning or loss of power, it just stops randomly after running fine for a while. After some time (might be minutes or hours) the engine turns on and runs fine.
I have no clue what it might be, I believe it might be an electrical problem affecting the diesel pump. The pump has a pair of cables coming in to a white plug at the pump's back, I disconnected them but the engine still runs.
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2000 Camry XLE. Driver's el.window quits on way up, but will start again if I wait for one or more minutes before retrying. The longer I wait, the farther up it will go. Not fun at toll booths on rainy days. Started a few month ago when I forgot to close windows and the controls got rained on. Initially, a blast of WD40 seemed to cure the problem, but no longer. Took arm rest controls out, but couldn't see any obvious problems. Is this an aging motor problem? Do I have to get ripped off by dealership serv. dept., or can any reputable garage do it? I'm worried about taking the whole panel off myself. Don't have the tools to do so, and don't want to rip "leather."
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My Step Brother has a 1994 Chevy S-10 Blazer with a 4.3L V6 Automatic and the Transmission isn't Shifting Right what could be the Problem?
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My 94 F150 has been actingup lately with the 4r70 transmission not shifting into 3rd gear or above. I replaced the MLPS sensor and re pinned the plug as per the instructions with the switch.The old sensor had the plug on the side, same type of plug, but wires indifferent spots. Truck wouldn't start like that, so repinned to match the instructions. I couldn't get the neutral mark to 100% line up as there is not enough adjustment, but it is very close.
The old plug had
32-298-140-33
57-199-359-463
I switched it to
57-359-199-463
33-140-298-32
Then tried
463-359-199-57
33-140-298-32
Truck still won't shift to 3rd, overdrive off button doesn't light up and itwon't start in neutral. I tested the ground at the connector and it lights up atest light connected to the pos bat cable with no issues.
Back up lights won't work, but flicker as going from R to N, so I suspect that is due to the fact I couldn't get the marks to line up 100%, but i'm not worried about that now.
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My 1994 Ranger keeps shifting in and out of overdrive. It will go into OD easily, but it keeps downshifting, then shifting back up constantly. If I go up hill, if will downshift and stay in drive, but on a flat stretch, it wont stay in OD. It works fine when its cold, but after it warms up, then the shift problem begins. What do I do?
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I made a horrible decision after my Ranger got totaled and bought a 94 Jetta... When I first got it, the car had trouble starting in the rain but eventually she would fire up. If I drove it immediately away after finally starting, it would jerk really bad when I gave it gas while shifting, until 4th gear. Once she ran for a bit it would smooth out. Nowadays if it rains the car won't start at all, just keeps turning over and I have to wait for a nice dry sunny day then it starts right up.
My mechanic worked on it recently and replaced a sensor in the distributor and the crank shaft sensor, because they showed up on the diagnostic as bad. Once his work was complete, he said he sprayed the engine with water and it started. So that was a week ago and it's raining and it won't start, the engine just turns over so it's not a starter issue. The car only has 143,000 but I am gonna get rid of it this fall but I just wanna know what this wet weather problem is.
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I have a 94 E350 with a 7.3 diesel. I took it to the Ford dealership to have a new fuel filter and oil change when I got it back the OD light was flashing and transmission shifting hard. They tell me they cannot find a problem could they have possibly knock a wire off of something to make this happen...
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I am having a very tricky problem with my Buick.
For approximately the last 4 months, it has been (at least according to the heat gauge on the dash) running pretty hot. Not overheating, but getting close. And it doesn't take long for it to get there. This all seems to have begun right around the time that my father and I flushed the coolant system.
Since then, I have replaced some parts, and learned a few things in the process.
I learned that there are bleeder screws which can be opened to let air bubbles out. And I have heard that the 3.1L is especially susceptible to them.
New parts which I have installed:
- thermostat
- coolant temperature sensor
- radiator cap
- upper radiator hose
- lower radiator hose
I have checked the water pump and it seems to be perfectly fine. No leaks. No signs of bad bearings. And it circulates coolant just fine. I have not been witness to either cooling fan, primary or auxiliary, switching on in a while.
The exact symptoms are these:
The heat gauge does not take long to get to mid-way point, but will sit at that point for a bit if the vehicle remains stationary. Once the vehicle is in significant motion, the heat gauge will climb fairly quickly, especially with moderately high RPMs. It WON'T touch the red though, but will get very very close to it. The car runs fine. It does seem to be a bit underpowered, but I am comparing it to my fiance's 1996 Olds Cutlass Ciera, which I believe has a different transmission. My Buick does not seem to have lost power since this problem arose. The cooling fans no longer kick on. The oil appears fine. The coolant as well. With the radiator cap off, coolant does not bubble out or shoot out.
I made sure after changing upper and lower hoses to fill the radiator, let the car run long enough for the thermostat to open, and then slowly poured more coolant into the radiator until it was full again. And the reservoir is at proper level and the the reservoir hose s not clogged.
I am not SURE, but I don't believe the radiator is clogged. I believe that covers it, at least as well as I can.
BTW, I do not know where the fan relays are, otherwise I would test the fans to see if they still work.
What the heck is up with my Buick? Also, it has 97,xxx miles on it, and the transmission fluid is at proper level and looks normal.
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For the past maybe 10 months, my car has been giving me new AC problems. The AC runs just fine when I'm driving normally or on the highway (basically without stopping for long periods of time and out of traffic). But when I stop for a long time (traffic, drive-thru, long light), my AC begins to run hot. To be more specific, the car actually begins to feel like it is running with more difficulty, as the engine starts running loudly and then I know that it is game over and it begins spitting out hot air. I generally just turn the AC off and put the windows down until I can get moving again, and then the AC is colder when I turn it back on.
Now, about 5-6 months ago I took it to my Mazda guy and he checked it out. Of course, it did not do what I wanted exactly, showing him what really happens when it sits for too long. Anyways, he said that everything seemed to be fine & both fans were working, but that the freon (r134) was low and he charged up the system and added some freon. After this, the AC was running MUCH cooler than it was before and the problem stopped.
That brings me to the last couple months; the problem has returned. This indicates to me, perhaps, that the freon has leaked out at this point, so it needs some more r134, but with dye, so that they can get a sniffer and pick the leak. Additionally, the engine is not overheating or anything of that sort, so I don't think it has to do with the radiator or coolant. I have essentially replaced almost every other part of the AC system in the car within the last 3 years. I have replaced the condenser, one of the fans, the water pump, hoses, everything you could imagine that isn't the compressor or the second fan.
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94 camry. 4 cylinder. Coil is located on the strut housing along with the ignitor. The car was running, but overheating.
The last time it ran, it overheated badly, but was parked right away. Fans never came on.
The radiator was leaking, so that was replaced. And since the fans hadn't come on, the temp sensor for the fans, in the bottom of the rad was also replaced.
Now it won't start. It cranks over nicely, and acts like it is missing spark or fuel.
It has spark. Determined by pulling the coil wire from the center of the distributor and checking there.
I used spray starting fluid by pulling the tube from the end of the throttle body and spraying in there. The spray starting fluid should have at least caused a cough or two, if not a short start and run then die... if fuel delivery was the problem.
I have tried it with the temp switch on the manifold connected, and then disconnected. Also tried jumping that connector, so I don't think that temp switch is the problem. (It's the temp switch that has the green connector.)
I am assuming the ignitor and coil are good, otherwise I would not be getting a spark from there.
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I have a 1994 gmc sierra 4x4 5.7 with a rebuilt engine 2 yrs ago and it has started having a rough idle(surging/dies) I have replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, maf sensor, iac sensor, tps sensor, top half of the tb and injectors, distributor, ignition module, plugs and plug wires and still no change. Yesterday I cleaned the iac and seemed to straighten up a little but then got in it to go to work today and it was back to running rough again and seemed worse. I am at a loss.
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Got a problem with the '94 Ranger. Something keeps draining the battery. For reference, the truck is an XL, manual 4x4, 4.0L, 5-speed. I've been trying to keep driving it so I could try and diagnose the issue. At first, as long as I cranked it every day, it stayed charged up, but now it has gotten worse. It will run down in an hour or two. I know figuring this kind of problem out is tough, but I thought maybe some others of you may have experience in this area that might benefit me.
Based on a gut feeling, my first idea was that there was something going on inside the AC compressor. So, I disconnected the compressor, but that wasn't it. My plan at the moment is to replace the wiring harness between the battery and the starter. The current harness is pieced together (not my doing), and whether it fixes this problem or not, it needs to be done. Another thing I've thought about is the ignition switch. It acts "funny" to me, but it has never really given any trouble.
My son needs to take this vehicle back to college with him in a couple weeks, and I need to get it figured out.
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