I am driving a 1987 mk3 Toyota supra with original engine and transmission. I live in Arizona and it drives perfectly fine in the early morning or late at night, but during the day when temperatures reach past 90°, my rpms will reach up to 5-7000, but won't be gaining speed, thus happens at stops and while driving, my car is an automatic, it does this when I enter 3rd gear.
View 13 RepliesI have a supra that is only running on the first and last cylinder. It was running poor and I pulled off the spark plug wires to see how it ran. After more testing I removed all 4 middle plug wires and it kept running the exact same. What would be causing this? The plugs and wires are new.
View 19 Replies1983 Celica-Supra P-Type, 38K miles. Garage kept, never abused... I have a really hard time shifting into 4th gear. Rebuilt clutch master & slave, adjusted pedal. Buttery smooth 1st-3rd. 4th does not grind but requires a lot of force to shift. 5th shifts ok, but feels vague; hard to tell it's in gear.
View 13 RepliesI just got back to town with my Supra, 298,000 mi, 7M-GE 3.0L engine. I think I picked up some bad gas on the road. It's acting like I've got dome water in the tank. I've already run a couple of tankfuls. I know the proper way to fix this is to drop the tank and clean it out. But, I can't do that until this weekend, maybe. It's been a couple of decades since I dealt with this. What can I add to the gas to get rid of some of it until I can drop the tank?
View 19 RepliesCar spits and sputters when engine is cold. When engine is warm car runs fine. I believe that my cold start injector or my cold start injector time switch is bad. 7MGE Toyota Supra ....
View 10 RepliesWhat can I do to fix this? 1987 Supra. No brake lights go on when I press on the brake, including the middle light. Tail lights do work, but no brake lights. It has been somewhat intermittent as well...
View 8 RepliesFrom stop. When I accelerate it takes a long time to get to drive. It feels like a lag time. What is wrong with my car?
View 3 Repliesfuel & smoke smell when high acceleration and when the window open.
View 1 Replies I have a 2002 Corolla with about 180,000 miles that has been well maintained, but I know very little about cars.
Over the past months, I've noticed the engine noise on acceleration sounds a bit louder than I would expect it to, and it seems to be getting louder over time. It's slow changing, so I'm a little unsure. And occasionally I wonder if I don't hear a sound that shouldn't be there, though I couldn't describe it yet. Mechanic said the acceleration noise is normal at start-up for older cars until they get warm, but this happens even after I've been driving a while. Worth the $100 for an engine checkup?
Also, the A/C doesn't seem to be the strongest and has a high pitch noise when I run it. Normal?
My 1986 Toyota celica supra stick shifter is pretty loose and I don't like it. Any way I can tighten it up?
View 5 RepliesMy 2008 Tundra's tranmission went out last week when attempting to shift from 4 WD high, into 4wd lo, then back into high.
I was stuck in the snow in 4wd high, then tried low, to no avail, tried the transmission in lo (which didn't engage--just 'lo' light blinking and alarm buzzer, then tried 4wd HI and there was NO transmission response, a grinding in "P' and no low, high, or anything--from Park to D, Reverse, all the gears were gone, and I was getting ready to call for a tow truck, and after grinding the P gear for a while and back into N, it went into 4wd high.
Toyota replicated the problem, after some doing, and they're trying to fix it as the 4wd acuator is a problem--it's backordered to Japan which means the truck is out of action for a month.
There are similar reports of damage and problems listed on the NHTSA website.
My 2011 6-speed automatic AWD santa fe was in a front end collision (T-boned a car that pulled out into the road then stopped) but was still drivable, just bumper damage. About a week later while waiting on the front bumper to come in, the starter died mechanically (of course, no relation, according to the shop and insurance adjuster since even though the starter is about 12" behind the point of impact, there was no undercarriage damage, ie, not related to accident). So when they got the part in, they replaced the bumper and the starter.
When I picked up the car from the shop, the check engine light came on when I got out on the road. On the road, the car had almost no acceleration. The engine RPM went up, almost to 7k but the car was moving slowly. This was on the on-ramp of the freeway and very disconcerting. It did make it up to about 40mph initially and then on the slight incline, took me about 30 seconds to make it to 60mph. I got off the freeway and pulled into an Oreilly auto and had them read the code. It came across as the phantom P200A (something about MAF sensor but usually not a true error in this make/model). I called the dealership, took it back. The guy looked at it while I waited, brought it around, said it was fixed, just had to have a code cleared and the check engine light went out. His experience was simply driving it in first, maybe second gear in the lot. He said it was the ECM, and this was typical as it had the battery disconnected for a couple days, the ECM needed to "relearn" the controls. He said give it a few weeks and it would be fine.
I got it out on the road, no more check engine light, but the acceleration/rev situation was still present. It has been a month, and it hasn't gotten better or worse. I can drive the 6-speed in auto around town, though it shifts higher, around 4k RPM if I am at all accelerating, or on even a slight incline. I can put the pedal to the floor while driving in auto, and it drops out of gear and into neutral, at least the way it feels, revs up, would red-line if i didn't come off the gas, but never accelerates, it acts like it drops into neutral. If I am driving with the car in manual shifting mode and choose where I want it to shift, it shifts fine, doesn't feel like it drops to neutral, however I can floor the pedal and it still only slowly accelerates, especially on an incline. It seems to bog down around 40mph or so, and take forever to get above that. Downshifting manually raises the RPM as expected, but no increase in acceleration.
Now I have a check engine light on again, and am taking the car back to the repair shop this week without clearing the light so maybe they can see something else that may have cleared at the auto part store last time. Basically, I have read multiple causes/symptoms which partially match this, but nothing exactly.
1. Limp home mode on ECM
2. Throttle position sensor
3. MAF sensor (or whatever the 2011 Santa Fe has equivalent)
4. TCM (Transmission Control Module)
There was absolutely nothing wrong with the car before the wreck, then the starter. No shifting/idling issues. I am wondering what a repair shop replacing a bumper and transmission could have done, that would create this problem. The transmission couldn't have died between working fine, won't start, and here, your starter and bumper are fixed but the tranny is FUBAR. I am thinking it absolutely HAS to be a sensor or computer controller of some sort, but not much on the web showing which sensors are which and where they are in a 2011 Santa Fe.
I believe the MAF/throttle body has to be removed to get to the starter (directly below it if I am not mistaken). One last thing, it is an AWD... it was towed from my house to the dealership with all 4 wheels up, as required for a AWD vehicle. If the shop pulled it from the lot to the garage, a few hundred feet at most, with 2 wheels up and 2 down, could that cause all this?
I just recently lowered my mk6 with h&r springs(1.2 front and rear) and installed wheels and tires from tire rack. I am noticing a lot of vibration at the wheel, pedals and seats while accelerating or moving at higher speeds. I had an alignment done after the springs were installed and all 4 tires/wheels have been road force balanced. One of the tires rated at 20lbs which apparently is acceptable but Tire rack sent me a new tire anyway, which I just had put on today.
Still the same vibration is there. Next step tire rack wants to do is switch out all 4 of my Michelin for a different tire. The guys at tires plus feel that there is no issue with the tires and I think I agree. Could the lowering springs be the problem?
My GF recently picked up a 1.8t (AWW) and we scanned it with vag com before she bought. We knew it had some misfires and a few other small problems so when it ran at higher RPMs we didn't think anything of it.
Fast forward to now after replacing some parts (hoses, coil packs etc...) and still the RPMs seem a little high compared to my mk4 vr6. On the streets in 4th gear, my car stays around 2200 and on the hwy its probably around 3300 in 5th gear at 75mph.
On the streets, her 1.8t seems normal but on the hwy in 5th gear, she's at nearly 4k. So my question... Do 1.8ts run at higher rpms under normal driving?
I have a 2007 Prius 3 Touring Edition. I purchased it new in Dec. 2006. I have had NO issues with my favorite car of all time, and currently have 90,600 miles. I have noticed a high pitch for a long time coming from the transaxle during acceleration. The pitch is only present when MG1 or MG2 is engaged. The pitch stops in stealth mode. My finance also has a 2007 Prius, and her's does not make the noise or whine when I drive her vehicle.
I have changed the transaxle fluid at 65,000 miles, but I did not see the plug when it was changed so I don't know how much, if any, shavings were stuck to the magnetic bolt. If you are wondering, yes, the high pitched noise was present before the fluid change. Also, as I accelerate and increase speed, the noise pitch increases.
Is my transaxle displaying a tell-tale sign of imminent failure?
I have a 2007 Passat with >120k miles on it. For the last month or so, occasionally when I start the car up, the EPC (I think it stands for Electronic Power Control) light and the Check Engine (the engine sign) light comes on. When I hit the gas, it barely goes past 20 and seems to be revving really high (almost redlining) before it finally accelerates. Needless to say, this is not a good thing; especially when it happens on the freeway.
I called around to a few mechanics but they all want to see the car and run the computer codes on it before they even tell me what's wrong with it; which I am loathe to do just yet because I don't want them to charge me an extra $100 for a diagnostic for a repair I may not even get done with that mechanic. Meanwhile I'm driving around feeling like I should put my feet on the ground like Fred Flintstone to gain speed.
In the research I've done online, I've seen that it may be an issue with the throttle wire or some other wiring issue.
Under acceleration when close to the limit of adhesion during high speed long sweeping turns I was noticing an oil smell last year. I can't say if it was R, L or both turning directions since its been a full winter since I have driven the car.
I'm using Mobile 1 5w30, a stock air box and I have headers. I'm also running 305 PSS tires, and a pretty well modified suspension. I have no facts to back this up but I am assuming because of my setup that I can get a little more lateral acceleration then most.
I have zero oil consumption, no leaks and good test results from Blackstone. My only thought is that I am pushing a little oil in to the crank case breathers during this hard cornering.
My wife has a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am, as seen above. The car recently started having issues, especially when cold, where the RPMs will rise when in gear but the car will not accelerate. It happened from 25 mph and lower while in a subdivision as well as around 45 mph on city streets. I have a feeling this is a transmission issue, but don't have much experience when it comes to transmissions.
View 6 RepliesMotor started to misfire while out on grocery run. scanner said mifire on #1 so I bought a coil and plug. car ran well for a day then same thing on # 2.. repeat.. then # 3 repeat so did #4.
Now it did it again on #3. I switched the coil #2 and #3 to see if scanner would show if it followed the new #3 coil but so far no code. The misfire is on light acceleration, push down hard and it does not miss. Today I will try some fuel injector cleaner.. Is this the trail I should be following ?
I took my 2008, 56k in for a new battery after my car sat outside in negative degree temps for a few days. After doing that repair, the dealer recommended a new serpentine belt. Ever since that service appointment, the car is making a high-pitched "woo-wooo" noise during acceleration. It's definitely a noise I've never heard before. I took it back to the dealer two days later; he had the service guy drive it and they both claim the noise is normal and just due to the cold. Is it the belt? Is it the cold? Am I losing my mind?
View 3 Replies85 ranger 2.3 fuel injected misses at high acceleration. Fairly new plugs and wires, just replaced the timing belt, pretty new fuel pump in tank, new fuel pressure regulator and pcv. It idles well, starts up and drives pretty well until you get it in 4th and really bog it down. Could be timing issues but I'm pretty sure I did everything right when I put the belt in. What it could be? I know when the tank fuel pump went out, it did something similar for a while...
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