I have a supra that is only running on the first and last cylinder. It was running poor and I pulled off the spark plug wires to see how it ran. After more testing I removed all 4 middle plug wires and it kept running the exact same. What would be causing this? The plugs and wires are new.
View 19 RepliesI am driving a 1987 mk3 Toyota supra with original engine and transmission. I live in Arizona and it drives perfectly fine in the early morning or late at night, but during the day when temperatures reach past 90°, my rpms will reach up to 5-7000, but won't be gaining speed, thus happens at stops and while driving, my car is an automatic, it does this when I enter 3rd gear.
View 13 Replies1983 Celica-Supra P-Type, 38K miles. Garage kept, never abused... I have a really hard time shifting into 4th gear. Rebuilt clutch master & slave, adjusted pedal. Buttery smooth 1st-3rd. 4th does not grind but requires a lot of force to shift. 5th shifts ok, but feels vague; hard to tell it's in gear.
View 13 RepliesI just got back to town with my Supra, 298,000 mi, 7M-GE 3.0L engine. I think I picked up some bad gas on the road. It's acting like I've got dome water in the tank. I've already run a couple of tankfuls. I know the proper way to fix this is to drop the tank and clean it out. But, I can't do that until this weekend, maybe. It's been a couple of decades since I dealt with this. What can I add to the gas to get rid of some of it until I can drop the tank?
View 19 RepliesCar spits and sputters when engine is cold. When engine is warm car runs fine. I believe that my cold start injector or my cold start injector time switch is bad. 7MGE Toyota Supra ....
View 10 RepliesWhat can I do to fix this? 1987 Supra. No brake lights go on when I press on the brake, including the middle light. Tail lights do work, but no brake lights. It has been somewhat intermittent as well...
View 8 RepliesFrom stop. When I accelerate it takes a long time to get to drive. It feels like a lag time. What is wrong with my car?
View 3 RepliesI've offered to do a basic compression check on a 22R engine, '85 Toyota pickup, which is apparently low on power, won't go above 50 mph. Yes it could be a multitude of things. Chances are it's several of them.
I have not yet heard it run. I'll consider myself lucky if I hear the uneven cadence of running on three cylinders.
My job Tuesday is to screen it for the most obvious things like a clogged air intake or air filter, choke stuck closed, worn spark plugs, etc, and do a simple compression test. I will again try to persuade the owner to take it to the skilled mechanic I've recommended, which he has resisted thus far, even though he's about to set off on a long trip through desolate terrain.
I already suspect low compression based on what the owner has implied, but also wondering about ignition timing and vacuum advance. This is a carbureted engine, so does that mean that it also has a distributor and needs to have the timing set? I have a timing light, but only vaguely remember the procedure...disconnect vacuum line from carb and plug hose leading to distributor? Any marks on the harmonic balancer to align?
Evidently it has a bogus exhaust system too - no cat - making me wonder if there's a problem there. I'm not going to get too deep into this, but if I can at least spot the problem I want to be able to convince the owner that there's a clear explanation, so he'll get it resolved.
Car stopped running when I spray started fluid it starts up so I changed the Fuel pump and it still not starting?
View 1 RepliesI am fairly new to this stuff but I just got a 85 Ranger 4x4 and its running pretty rough it will be fine then all of a sudden it will bog right out and want to stall so I have to keep my foot planted on the gas and it pops and spudders and eventually runs normal again? Its a 2.8 V6 carb...
View 14 RepliesExperiencing hesitation/misfiring/bogging down sensation under light to moderate acceleration. Manual transmission, and sometimes feels like bucking by a novice stick-shift driver. Starts fine, idles fine when cold or hot. Will accelerate fine when cold, but only for a few minutes or less than a mile until it's warmed up enough. Have checked and tested many ignition and carburetor related items until narrowing it down to EGR system, which is only operating once warmed up, and not at idle, so that part of the system is working OK. If I disconnect vacuum hose from EGR valve, runs fine with no hesitation, but pings or knocks badly (as expected). Symptoms all point to too much EGR flow. With no computer or codes to check.
Have tested both EGR valve and EGR Vacuum Modulator, and both seem fine. EGR valve hold vacuum. Found and cleaned some carbon build-up, and pintle stem doesn't seem to stick. Vacuum modulator tested by blowing air into Q port while blocking P & R and air passes thru small bleed off hole. Filter had small dark burnt looking spot at bleed off hole - don't know if that's normal or not. Also tested modulator by simultaneously apply pressure to bottom port (to simulate exhaust pressure) while applying pressure to Q port, with P & R still blocked. Bleed off hole slowly stopped flowing air as pressure built up. About to roll the dice and replace modulator (less expensive of the two). Without trying to add more confusion, have wondered if a clogged cat convertor would cause enough increase in exhaust pressure to make modulator send too high a vacuum signal to valve. While the truck is old, it only has 50k miles, and no real modifications.
I have a 1985 Toyota Tercel that I just got, the thing has been sitting for 2 years and it started before it was left to sit. Now I have done all the usual maintenance on it, replaced the sparks, oil, oil filter, air filter, distributor cap, fuel pump and fuel filter, gave it some gas treatment and filled the tank and some carb cleaner to clean out the gunked up carb. My problem is that it starts but dies right after when it tries to idle. it can shift in to gear and such but it will still die out right after about 10 seconds unless I keep tapping the gas. The more times I start it the longer it stays idle but I wonder what the problem is...
View 4 RepliesI own an 85 toyota pick up. It has a 86 electrical system with a 95 engine. To date, this truck has run like a top until I got in the other day and turning the key nothing happened. That is to say, the starter did not turn or kick out. I had the starter tested and it is fine, I tested the starter relay and the neutral position switch. All the wiring checks out fine except for one That comes off the starter relay in the fuse box under the hood.
This wire seems to be a ground for the coil side of the relay. In my books, it should go to a clutch /start switch that I can't find. When I follow the wire it goes from the fuse box into the right side of the engine compartment into the fender area then runs toward the cab but I do not find its color combination going into the computer. I had this same problem with a 86 truck before and never found the problem.
I just been told my volvo 850 estate is backfiring and running on 4 cylinders instead of 5. I have been told he will have to run diagnostics and go from there.
View 5 RepliesFriend of mine has a 2001 Elantra, not sure of the mileage but it started running really rough, like it's on 3 cylinders. His mech wants to look at the head, thinks there's a broken spring or something.
I asked if the timing belts ever been changed, no it hasn't. My suggestion is it might have lost a few teeth from the belt and jumped. I can't see it being a broken valve spring or something worse because the beta engine are tough as nails.
He said the wires are fine, they probably need replacing too because my friend is the type of person who changes oil and that's it.
Last night I was cruising at about 55 when the EPC light came on. At first, I didn't feel anything unusual, but shortly after exiting onto a surface street the engine was definitely running on three cylinders. I immediately turned around and drove the four or five miles home (still on three cylinders) and parked it.
My car is a 2011 with 21K miles. I had an APR flash (Stage 1) done about 2 months ago. (I'm not saying that there's necessarily a connection.) What might be going on? I plan to take it to the dealer tomorrow after resetting to stock program (though I understand it can still be detected). Is it okay to drive it? (Assuming that it will start.)
A couple of months ago I replaced my coils because of misfires. Just yesterday I satarted getting the running in 3 cylinders feeling. So I was woundering why they went out so fast? (Coils were from my brothers 20th gti)
View 5 RepliesSo, until recently I had a 2000 Ford Focus but it was totaled in an accident not long ago and is long gone now. I was given a 1985 Toyota Tercel Wagon with about 194,000 mi by a family member. However, it has always had a problem whereby the brake pedal goes to the floor now and then and especially when it is cold in the morning. So, I took the car to a mechanic (hwy 64 auto, Raleigh, NC) and they replaced the Master Cylinder yesterday and bled the brake lines through the master cylinder.
The mechanic told me that the bleeder valves were too old and corroded to try to bleed them at each wheel and that they might break and then the caliper(s) would then have to replaced. Anyway, long story short, the brakes are WORSE after he changed the master cylinder and bled the lines from the master cylinder. Now EVERY time you first press the brake the pedal goes down then immediately you can "pump" them back up so either air in the lines or still a leak somewhere in the braking system. I do not want to spend anymore money (or at least very little money) on this car as too much has already been spent on other things before I got it and also after I got it.
Did the mechanic screw up or am I looking at a problem you have with some old cars where you start replacing parts in the brake system and then still have the problem or a new problem and then you wind up spending $800 replacing old crappy, worn out parts. What should I do? Did the mechanic screw it up or is it just time to send this old car to the scrap pile and crusher? Remember, I don't want to keep pouring money into this thing. I've already spent some money on it with other stuff lately.
My Wife has a 1984 and I have a 1985 Toyota Pickup, 2wd, 22R engine, same dash and almost same everything. There are 4 settings on the selector switch (horizontal lever switch moving from left-to-right) for the blower fan: "Off", "Low", "Med" & "High". In both trucks, the "Low" setting for the BLOWER FANS quit working, but the other settings still work fine and amount heat-output is fine(so this is a FAN problem and not a "heating" problem).
Is the problem in the switch itself?, or in the blower fan resistor?, or in the blower fan motor? From what I've read elsewhere, it seems to be a blower fan Resister problem that is most likely. If that is the case, where exactly should I be looking for it and will I need to remove the dashboard? And what does it look like? I've seen a small black object about 1"x 1.75"x 1.75" and it has an Amperage listing on it and it's next to a Relay that seems to be related to the heater. I'm guessing that thing is not the resister if it's labeled "Amperage", I would think it should have an "Ohms" symbol or word or rating on it if it were the resistor, or is that really "it".
My 1985 Toyota Pickup (manual shift) is stalling out when I put the truck in neutral or don't shift quickly enough. The battery light comes on after stalling followed by the oil light. After stalling, it does start back up and repeats the same problem. If I keep my foot on the gas and the truck in gear, it runs. I'm new to DIY repairs, and bought this truck for the purpose of learning more. I know the basics, am mechanically inclined, have a repair manual, and am a quick learner.
View 4 Replies2001 Santa Fe with 2.4 engine auto FWD 198k miles. When it is started first in the day, the engine sounds good and shifts well. After a few minutes and also after stops, first gear works well but then the following gears do not work well almost as if the engine and the transmission quit talking to each other. Traveling at 60 mph starting up a medium hill, the car downshifted and could not pick a gear. Although I pushed the pedal harder, the car did not respond rather continued to slow down. It acts like I lose 2 of the 4 cylinders in all cases. I replaced the spark plugs and two of them had oil on top of the plugs and also all around the threads. I replaced both coils thinking that one of them was the issue but no change has been observed. I replaced the throttle position sensor; no performance change. I do not believe it is the transmission as I have not notice any clunking, or bad shifting when starting out. While coasting at 40 mph in neutral and my pedal pressed at a certain position, the rpm gauge fluctuated from 3k to 3.6k many times for the duration of 20 seconds.
View 2 Replies