Toyota - Solara :: Power Window Failure / Stopped Working In Up Position
Oct 31, 2015
I've got a 2001 Toyota Solara, and the driver's side power window has stopped working (in the "up") position. Other windows and powered items in the car work, and there's no sound when I hit the electric switch. From a rough inspection of the apparatus, I don't think that the regulator itself is shot. I'd love to repair this myself...but for this car it will be way more expensive to buy the regulator/motor unit than just the motor online.
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Both of my FOBs stopped working. I replaced both batteries and they still don't work. Dealer says I have to replace the FOBs, but why would both stop working at the same time. I thought it might either be a programming problem or a sensor problem.
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I have a 2006 Solara and overnight the windshield washer pump stopped working. I thought the problem was no washer fluid, filled it, and nothing. I checked the hose near the hood and nothing came out. The motor isn't humming like it is trying to pump, so I checked the fuse (I think I checked the right one, not sure, it was a 15a) and it appeared to be good. I checked the wires going to the pump with a multimeter and didn't get power, so is there any other "secret" fuse I am missing. I know on an older car I had, the fuses were sometimes mixed with other items and not labeled.
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Passenger window just stopped working in closed position. Neither driver's or passenger's switch would operate it. Was told it was probably the motor. Replaced regulator and motor. Window went up from half way down position using driver's side switch, then back to not functioning at all. Window lock button off. Also, now the auto up/down for driver's window not working, needs to be depressed or lifted for open/close. Guess old motor and regulator were ok.
2005 HONDA ELEMENT 80,000 MI...
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In May the driver's side window mechanism (motor + "window regulator" are the primary parts) self destructed on my 2002 Hyundai Accent and left the window stuck in the down position. Since the car only has 35,000 miles on it, and since I live in a cold climate and didn't lower the windows much, I concluded it was a manufacturing failure.
So rather than spend about $700 to have the mechanism redone, I elected for 1/10 as much money to have a body shop remove the mechanism and wedge up the window in the up position permanently with blocks and screws. Since I was told by a couple of mechanics that this type of failure occurs in other vehicles, I was still sticking by Hyundai and planning to buy another one 3-5 years from now.
But I have been forced to change my plans. Today (in September) the passenger side window mechanism self destructed and, once again, left the window stuck in the down position! Naturally, I am going to have the same solution applied to the passenger side window now. As a result of this (and an unbelievable brake problem that I don't have time to get into) I have been forced to change my mind and can no longer support Hyundai.
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I just replaced my Toyota Camry Solara 2005 Front Struts on Thursday to pass State Inspection. On Friday we had a mild snow storm(2 inches) and when taking a turn, the brake didn't work properly and the tires slipped and my car went over the curb and hit a pole. I was going at about 30 mph. My tires are a little old but since they passed the inspection on Thursday I'm guessing that they weren't that bad. My question is did replacing the struts have anything to do with this or was this just my distracted driving...
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Passenger side window has stopped working - the regulator was replaced about a year ago and I have tested it directly from the battery and it works up & down. I thought it unusual to have the drivers side and passenger side window switches to fail at the same time - is there a common relay I should find and replace - I am looking for a common circuit that both switches might travel through to this window motor.
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I was on a highway on my Toyota Sienna LE 2012 today and hit a minor bump (the steel protrusions on road you feel when driving over a bridge) I first thought the tire pressure signal come on, slowed down and it seemed OK. All indicators - Check Engine, ABS, VSC, Brake, Pressure, etc were also ON, speedometer, odometer not working and I stopped under a mile at a gas station. Turned off car, checked tire pressure, it was OK and restarted car - all indicators still ON, speedometer, odometer and power window controls do not work. Steering feels tight but I can drive car - I was on my way to JFK Airport and on Beltway Pky East another 10mi to go yo JFK. Car drove fine, but with all these indicators on, and steering what felt like manual.
I plan on taking car for service tomorrow but I have never remotely experienced anything like this on a car. I am also worried I messed up the car (and dangerous if something else happened...) driving to get to the airport. What could have gone wrong?
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My 2007 Toyota Solara convertible has been perfect...and now suddenly the convertible back window is leaking. My husband advised me not to drive it today due to the expected rain. OOPS. I went out, and when I made a stop, I looked at the back window and realized the bottom window (glass/plastic?) had completely separated from the fabric top. The top itself is in perfect condition.
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I have a 2003 Passat 1.8T Wagon.
My passenger side, front window and lock stopped working. Once I cranked the AC and the car cooled a bit, the lock and window would work again.
Now, they have stopped working completely.
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The door panel came unattached and while i was checking it out the door bulb holder touched some metal and sparked. now windows, power door lock, mirrors do not work. Fuse panel has no symbol for windows...
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My driver's door power window motor stopped working. Replaced motor (Dorman). New motor was shaky and wouldn't stop when going down. Replaced motor again (Dorman), same thing. Regulator became damaged, replaced (Dorman), smoother, still won't stop with auto button, or holding down button. At some point glass came out of regulator and track. Replaced glass. Window goes up and down smoothly, but just doesn't stop when going down and tries to keep going. I don't see a limit switch or circuit for it. I see there is a relay and a fuse for the auto down. What tells the motor to stop driving current?
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My driver side power window on my '05 super crew f150 has stopped working. It rolled down maybe 3-4 inches or so and the stopped working and now will not go up or down. All of the other windows/locks/mirrors on the main switch work so I'm not sure if I should start with replacing the motor or try the switch first.
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2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.
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My driver' side window had been making a thunk sound when first lowered from the full closed position for the last 6 months. I opened the door and couldn't see anything wrong. Now it won't go down at all, although I can hear it seem to try when I push the button. The motor is likely shot or some sort of other problem? It is a 20 yr old car and starting to drink oil, so I want to try to fix if possible cheaply.
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03 santa fe... During a stereo install the door panels were off and somehow we found a way to screw up the window switch. (the good new's is the stereo sounds awesome) and I can't pass it back onto the installer, he's my brother
all 4 windows stopped working, and of course, they are in the down position which complicates things just a bit
I checked the fuses but they seem ok at least on a visual, although I haven't eliminated that all together the likelihood that its a fuse, or multiple fuses is moving to the bottom of the list.
The window switch, it looks ok on a visual, anything obvious that I can check or look for ? No loose or crimped wires that I can spot.
If the switch itself somehow got fried I can get a replacement, but I'm hesitant to just go out and buy one right now (75ish + ship) and get it in the mail, to get the ball rolling, and god knows what the dealer would want for the part locally. I'll also check local salvage yard to see if at least I can get the part faster if it comes down to that.
Maybe when the new speaker wires were fished through the flex boot we disconnected or loosened the connector under the dash that goes to the switch ?
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I have a 2006 Toyota Solara V-6. I was driving down the street with no indication of what was about to happen. All of the sudden my check engine light came on and the car lost all power. I had the car towed home and had a mechanic look at it he put his scanner on it and I'm not sure what codes if any came up but he decided it was the ECM so he found a used one with a warranty and ordered it, he put it in and it did the same thing it turns over but wont start. What could it be ?
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I have a 1999 f250 crew cab. About 6 months ago my drivers side window quit working in the up position(lucky me) and last week I got around to fixing it . I just ordered a new window motor instead of the whole regulator and installed it and it worked perfect for 4 days and today it suddenly quit again. What would cause a window motor to go out again so quick? Everything else seems to be fine and there is power to it so I'm assuming it's the motor.
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Today my window switches stopped working on me. How much is a new switch? Do I actually have to replace the switch or maybe some wiring got loose?
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Car: 1996 Nissan Maxima
The car has an automatic antenna (up/down when you turn on/off the radio). I wanted to disconnect the motor to leave it in the up position. I followed the cables to the antenna (left the coax alone, of course), and cut the 3 conductors that were leading to "a box" under the antenna. NOTE: This area in behind a metal panel.
As intended, the antenna is stuck in the up position. The problem is that I also lost the dash clock, the remote to the door locks stopped working, and the radio memory buttons do not work anymore (the radio comes on in AM every time).
AND here is the mystery; I went back to the cables, spliced them together (correctly - they are color coded) but NOTHING CAME BACK TO NORMAL. The radio is still messed up, remote still not working, and the dash clock is still off.
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Ok...this is weird. It works for the back but not for the front. How to get it to work again?
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