Toyota - Solara :: 2006 Suddenly Dies And Won't Restart
Sep 11, 2016
I was picking my daughter up from school on Friday, drove to the school, parked and left the motor running while waiting on her to come out. The car suddenly dies and won't restart. I thought initially it was a problem of bad cable connections on the batter, but after resolving that, I still couldn't get the car to crank due to a drained battery.
I pulled engine codes and got a 306, misfire on bank 6, pulled and replaced the plug, and put a new battery on the car. Now, when I try to start it, the starter spins fast, RPM goes up to close to 1000, and the motor will eventually start to turn over correctly, but will quit and go back to the fast spinning. It will rotate back and forth between the try to crank and fast spinning continuously. I tried pulling engine codes again and got nothing.
View 19 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2000 Toyota Rav4 that just had an oil change and air filter replacement a little over a week ago. Today I was driving when the oil light suddenly came on (for the first time ever) followed by the check engine light. The car would not accelerate with pressing the gas and slowly came to rest on the side of the road. I tried to restart it and it made some noise but didn't start. I did check the oil and it is showing that its full.
View 8 Replies
The switch on my Solara Convertible is freezing up. How do I change it?
View 1 Replies
I have a 2006 Solara and overnight the windshield washer pump stopped working. I thought the problem was no washer fluid, filled it, and nothing. I checked the hose near the hood and nothing came out. The motor isn't humming like it is trying to pump, so I checked the fuse (I think I checked the right one, not sure, it was a 15a) and it appeared to be good. I checked the wires going to the pump with a multimeter and didn't get power, so is there any other "secret" fuse I am missing. I know on an older car I had, the fuses were sometimes mixed with other items and not labeled.
View 11 Replies
I have a 2006 Toyota Solara V-6. I was driving down the street with no indication of what was about to happen. All of the sudden my check engine light came on and the car lost all power. I had the car towed home and had a mechanic look at it he put his scanner on it and I'm not sure what codes if any came up but he decided it was the ECM so he found a used one with a warranty and ordered it, he put it in and it did the same thing it turns over but wont start. What could it be ?
View 13 Replies
I am having with my 2000 Accent GL. It keeps dying while I'm driving it then will not restart. After sitting for awhile it will start but then after a short time dies again. The first thing I did was replace the fuel filter but that did not work. Did a diagnostic scan and it threw a code for the CPS sensor. Replaced THAT and it STILL did not fix it. I reset the computer but it didn't work. The scanner didn't pick up any other codes. Next I checked the relays and they all seem to be fine. Finally, I replaced the fuel filter but the problem did not go away.
View 3 Replies
Both of my FOBs stopped working. I replaced both batteries and they still don't work. Dealer says I have to replace the FOBs, but why would both stop working at the same time. I thought it might either be a programming problem or a sensor problem.
View 2 Replies
My 1999 Yukon will start up, run for about 5 minutes at idle then die. Then it will not start again till the next day.
I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel line at the fuel filter. It started up, and the pressure gauge went up to 54. I gave it some gas and pressure goes up to about 60 then back to 54 at idle. I sat and watched it for a bit then it died after about 5 minutes and the gauge went below 50 to about 48. I immediately tried to start again and the pressure actually drops a little while cranking to 45 and stayed there.
Whats weird is when I first started it up, I can hear the pump come on and it kicked the pressure up from 0 to 54. Then after dieing, I don't think I can hear the pump come on, and the pressure does not go up at all. I have a feeling tomorrow it will do the same thing, start up after sitting for awhile, then die after 5 minutes.
Does this sound like a fuel pump going bad? or does it sound like an electrical issue with the fuel pump?
View 1 Replies
1987 323 Mazda, manual transmission. Recently replaced motor and transmission and air conditioner, all used. Prior to replacement vehicle burned oil and was leaking transmission fluid and air conditioner wasn't working. Air conditioner was leaking and mechanic fixed the leak. First time I started it after that, there were a few big puffs of white smoke. Drove it about a week. Putting it in first was a little rough (but that was a problem with the transmission we used for replacement from another old car of ours we junked). but no other problems. Then we noticed it was leaking quite a bit of antifreeze and we could see it leaking onto the engine. We were putting antifreeze in it everyday.
I drive around 80 miles a day. After about a week, I had been driving it about 40 miles that day, I backed it into a driveway to turn around and when I put it in first, it was jerking and lurching. Drove it a carlength and it died. No check engine light. No overheating. Started it again and it bucked a few times while driving another carlength and died again. Then would start and die, start and die, start and die. No movement. Called the tow truck and took it to the mechanic. He said it was the fuel pump and fuel filter and replaced both those. He also fixed the antifreeze leak which was a loose clamp.
The next morning I drove it, it still lurched a couple times and a couple puffs of white smoke. Then I drove it about 10 miles, no problem. Parked it for about 2 hours and started it again. No problem initially, but then when I got to first stop sign in about a block, it lurched a bit. Next stop sign, another lurch. Then on the interstate a couple more small lurches, but not bad. After 10 miles I cruised to a stop and put it in neutral (to leave the engine on) and it died. No check engine light. Just the charge light came on. I had been playing the radio and radio was fine.
I started it again and drove straight to mechanic (about 2 miles). It lurched and bucked some along the way, but no white smoke. He replaced distributor but he said it didn't work. He said it was worse than before. I've looked at some similar problems on the net and here's what I found:
ground wire from the battery to the body and from engine to frame
EGR valve
Crankshaft position sensor
Powertrain control module (I don't even know if this car has one of those)idle air control
I don't know if mechanic has looked at any of the above.
View 16 Replies
My Father in Law's 95 Ranger, 4 Cylinder, 5 Speed has started acting strange. It has, in the past 3 weeks just died suddenly, and won't restart. No action at all when you turn the key, as if the battery is disconnected. Wait for 45 minutes to an hour, and it starts back up again.
He has had it to a local shop twice, and the only thing they have done is let it idle for 5 hours at the shop. Of course, it never stopped.
Now they are saying it is the clutch, and depending on the type of clutch, (big or small).
I've been working on cars most of my life, and even had an 87 Ranger, and I've gotta call BS on this. He says it happens mostly when coming to a stop.
View 4 Replies
I just bought a used 98 chevy metro. I drove it over a total of 30 miles on test drives. Every thing was as it should be. Now it dies at idle and is difficult to restart. I have to wait til it cools down completely to get it to fire again.
View 1 Replies
when car dies driving or idle- will not start for appx 30min after- cranks over immediately like it wants to, but will not actually start for about 30minutes... is this a sensor?
View 5 Replies
I have an 88 New Yorker whose digital amp gauge swings between its lowest and highest setting this makes the audio command center report electrical malfunction service immediately. Shortly after the car dies it will restart after 15 to 30 minutes. It doesn't throw any relevant codes, has had the alternator replaced still no luck.
View 8 Replies
I have been having issues with my 2001 sports trac 4x4 v6 sohc fuel in. 132k mileage. The problem is I can jump in and it will start first try, fuel pump is heard activating, idle is rough, feels like truck is about to die, pumping on the gas usually causes it to catch and smooth out......after 10 mins. or sometimes less than that truck starts to sputter, step on throttle it dies faster, sometimes when stepping on the throttle before it dies and a truck is able to rev up and then back to idle and not die.
But most times stepping on the gas when it begins to sputter after running for 10 mins or so causes it to die once it dies it doesn't start back up and when key is turned on and off, no fuel pump activation noise. I have scantool data take off an autel 619 saved to notebook text format. Those are my numbers for the scan tool, suggestions I have gotten so far are vacuum leak, failing fuel pump, bad o2 sensors, bad MAF.......so far replaced fuel filter and cleaned MAF....no difference.
View 11 Replies
My MILaw Truck 1992 ranger isnt running good and I need to get it going
Only a P0111 at this time IIRC
We started the truck tonight and idel ok Could see the motor Stumble every so often. She went to drive it and it Cuts out under Load Or you must rev it up to keep it from Stalling.
And if it does Cut out you have to let it sit for 5 minutes to restart what is Weird is it dont Smell Flooded either I smelled the VAC Line to the FPR and it was DRY and Did NOT Smell like Fuel.
It was dark didnt do much trouble shoot as the Flashlight died. I wonder about Fuel Filters. And Also about the Idel Control. The Mis or Stumble seams Random
Any testing I can do I have a DVM and that Code Reader. Might have to find something to check fuel press with where would I check it at the fuel rail I assume. Going to try and go over the Basics tomorrow If there is Anything Specific I should check?
View 14 Replies
As a new owner of a '04 Solara that is perfect in every way except cracks in the dash, replacement covers are available and where?
View 1 Replies
We purchased a car close to a year ago that at some point had the oil overfilled. We've had the engine cleaned out by the dealership and the car runs much better now but we still see smoke when the car is turned on and occasionally when it idles for more than a few minutes. Is this something that will just be an ongoing cycle or is there something else we should be having checked?
The car is a 2002 Toyota Solara, automatic, 120k miles.
View 9 Replies
I have a 1991 Nissan Sentra with 151,427 miles. The past several months I will be driving along and suddenly the car will stop working and it won't restart right away. The following parts have been replaced within the past 2 years: 2nd transmission, new starter, new alternator, new fuel pump, new battery, rack & pinion steering, and a complete tune-up just last fall (2012). What would cause my car to suddenly lose power when I'm driving? I want my Nissan to come back to life!
View 5 Replies
I jump started my wife's mini Cooper using my aerostar van 3.0l cargo. Her battery was so dead we had no luck after running my van for 8-10 min. There were a couple of attempts. My van suddenly died when she wasn't cranking the mini. It won't restart.
About one week prior I had a no start situation. I thought I had solved the problem. The first thing I did was listen for fuel pump engagement. I didn't hear it. I pulled the fuel pump relay and cleaned the connections. I put it back and the van started. I drove all week and then I get the call to jump start the mini.
So back to today. Fuel pump is engaging. I checked for spark at #4 cylinder with fuel relay disconnected so as not to flood the engine. I have spark. Battery is strong. I put a new fuel pump relay in place even though it appeared to be working properly. I had my wife crank the engine and the pink/blue wire at the fuel pump relay which goes to the pump lit up my voltage tester. Power appears to be present when cranking and not just initial engagement.
I'm thinking the original no start had nothing to do with the wire connections which I cleaned and it was just coincidence that it started and ran again for a week. The connections are now clean with a new relay attached and not starting. I'm thinking if I have spark and a fuel pump engaging then injectors may not be firing???
View 3 Replies
Changed CPS,EBPV sensor and tube,replaced IPR&fuel pressure regulator,batteries 100%,HPOP full,oil level full,fuel in bowl and lift pump runs(have not tested pressure but has good flow).After replacing IPR truck started quickly and idled for 15 minutes,decided to try a test drive ,truck stalled after reversing 10 ft as I shifted into first gear.Now no start!!Losing my mind.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2002 Toyota Solara SLE 6-cylinder 2-door coupe. 98,000 miles.
I have lots of white smoke at start up. Big time oil consumption. My wife drives car 14 mile round trip each day. Each night, I go out late and start car to burn off oil. There is no smoke in the morning when I do this.
People here have suggested the problem is valve stem seals. Not something I should try to fix myself. I did change the pcv valve.
I took car to mechanic. Told him it might be valve stems. He said he'd have to do the heads. Sounded like it would be expensive.
View 14 Replies
