Toyota - Solara :: 1999 - Getting CEL And Error Code P0125 / P1133 / P1135?
May 17, 2011
The check engine light for my V6 Toyota Solara is on for the codes P0125, P1133, and P1135. I changed the Bank 1 oxygen senor in addition to the temperature coolant sensor. During the drive back home from the mechanic the check engine light came back on, so I went back to the mechanic and was told that maybe the sensor was defective. The Denso sensor was exchanged, but again, the check engine light came back on. Have I been buying faulty parts or is there a different problem? The first time the oxygen sensor was changed smoke started coming out from the exhaust and from under the hood.
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I'm getting error P0125 on my 2001 Echo, which points to possibly a faulty ECT sensor.
Where is this sensor located? Seems like under the air box? Is replacing this part as annoying as it looks? And, are there any other possible causes for code P0125?
In case it's related, I will mention that code P0171 (mixture too lean, I believe) is present as well, and the car does hesitate upon initial acceleration when standing still. Once it's moving, it works fine.
Maybe it's time to start thinking about replacing this car... it has 216,000 miles...
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I have a 2002 Toyota Corolla. On a hot day (the first in a while), I got a check engine light for P0125. I'm going to clear it and see if it comes back. I think it is a false alarm for insufficient engine coolant. If the code and check engine light come back, what should I do?
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I have an automatic 6 cup and get a P1780 error code. Says to check neutral shift sensor, which I replaced. Code came back. Internet search says to try wire loom in trunk, driver side. Opens 2-3' of it and found no frayed or broken wires. All lights work fine. Car shifts fine. No other issues other than check engine light and that code. Where else to check?
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I have a 2000 Toyota solara. Everything runs fine. No misfires or weir sounds. But the check engine light has been turning on and off. It turns off at random times and usually turns back on after I get gas. I finally got the code scanned. It is P1410. While at autozone I got a new gas cap based on prior postings and filled up the tank to see if that trick would work. To my delight, the cel turned off upon starting the engine. It remained off for thirty minutes before it came back on. So now I am stuck with the code.
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My 2002 camry 4cyl auto, jap built, with near 190k miles, check engine light just came on, P1135, has not replace any sensor since I own at 125k, 7 years ago, did noticed last 3 to 6 months, mileage drop to 25 or 26mpg average, used to be around 30+mpg, I thought it was change season for gasoline mix.
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So my 02 Camry V6 has the check engine light on. I had them scan at AutoZone. the codes that came up were P1130 and P1135. After reading some threads here, seems like it's the A/F sensor?
Just to confirm, there are two A/F sensors in the V6 model? I can see the front one easily but not the rear one. Need to identify which sensor needs replacement?
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I have received a code twice during really cold weather and I think it is P0125. This says that the cylinder head temp. sensor is recording too low of operating temperature. The question is two fold. What happens if you do not change it? Second I have read that you have to remove the whole intake manifold to replace it. Any easier way to replace it than removing the whole intake manifold? I have looked for the darn thing and can not even see where it is located.
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My son bought his first truck, 1998 Ford F150 Supercab 4.6L Auto. (Proud of Him)
Salvage Flood Title, looks like engine been replaced. (Not so proud of him).
Anyway, vehicle seems to run and drive fine, however, failed emissions test.
P0125 Code pops up, Temp Gauge is not working, pegs all the way hot after truck is running, changed out Both ECT's in front of engine, one is right beside the other, I guess one goes to PCM and other to Gauge.
Now Gauge is reading all the way cold, let run for over 30 minutes and still shows nothing on Gauge...
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Just got a P1135 Code on the 1MZ-FE 2002 Camry.
My code reader pulls it up as (no typo below) : AirCFuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response Malfunction.
So I know it's a bad Air/Fuel sensor. Which one though? I replaced the rear sensor by the firewall about 6 months ago which fixed the check engine code (I don't remember the code). Would it make sense that the front one failed now or the back one failed again? Most of my research points me to a bad rear sensor however a lot of people also report that a code reader would report the sensor as "Bank 1 Sensor 1".
The rear sensor was replaced with a Denso 234-9042 Sensor.
I would play the replace and test game... however inspection is due within the month and after resetting the code, it usually takes about 50 miles to return. Being in college, 50 miles takes about 2 weeks.
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So of course it has to happen 3 weeks after my warranty expires. My CEL comes on and I have it read and the result is P0440. I find out that my wife has a habit of topping off the gas tank and so I am thinking that she has probably ruined the charcoal canister. It is something easy to replace?
I have an 06 limited edition... Yes, she will not be topping off any gas tank anymore.
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The switch on my Solara Convertible is freezing up. How do I change it?
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Both of my FOBs stopped working. I replaced both batteries and they still don't work. Dealer says I have to replace the FOBs, but why would both stop working at the same time. I thought it might either be a programming problem or a sensor problem.
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As a new owner of a '04 Solara that is perfect in every way except cracks in the dash, replacement covers are available and where?
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We purchased a car close to a year ago that at some point had the oil overfilled. We've had the engine cleaned out by the dealership and the car runs much better now but we still see smoke when the car is turned on and occasionally when it idles for more than a few minutes. Is this something that will just be an ongoing cycle or is there something else we should be having checked?
The car is a 2002 Toyota Solara, automatic, 120k miles.
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I was picking my daughter up from school on Friday, drove to the school, parked and left the motor running while waiting on her to come out. The car suddenly dies and won't restart. I thought initially it was a problem of bad cable connections on the batter, but after resolving that, I still couldn't get the car to crank due to a drained battery.
I pulled engine codes and got a 306, misfire on bank 6, pulled and replaced the plug, and put a new battery on the car. Now, when I try to start it, the starter spins fast, RPM goes up to close to 1000, and the motor will eventually start to turn over correctly, but will quit and go back to the fast spinning. It will rotate back and forth between the try to crank and fast spinning continuously. I tried pulling engine codes again and got nothing.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Solara SLE 6-cylinder 2-door coupe. 98,000 miles.
I have lots of white smoke at start up. Big time oil consumption. My wife drives car 14 mile round trip each day. Each night, I go out late and start car to burn off oil. There is no smoke in the morning when I do this.
People here have suggested the problem is valve stem seals. Not something I should try to fix myself. I did change the pcv valve.
I took car to mechanic. Told him it might be valve stems. He said he'd have to do the heads. Sounded like it would be expensive.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Solara. Whenever I make a hard right turn the car turns off. When I stop and put it in park I can always crank right back up. I can turn left with no problems. What the problem is.?
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I just replaced my Toyota Camry Solara 2005 Front Struts on Thursday to pass State Inspection. On Friday we had a mild snow storm(2 inches) and when taking a turn, the brake didn't work properly and the tires slipped and my car went over the curb and hit a pole. I was going at about 30 mph. My tires are a little old but since they passed the inspection on Thursday I'm guessing that they weren't that bad. My question is did replacing the struts have anything to do with this or was this just my distracted driving...
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I have a 2000 Toyota Solara with 145,000 miles. When I make a right turn, there is a scraping sound like metal against metal. Its not loud or shrieking. Its hard to hear over talk radio. But in the garage I can hear it, and its been getting louder. I haven't changed or replaced the tires in awhile or had any other work done to the right tire since long before the noise started. Is this something serious that requires immediate attention or is it some loose piece of plastic?
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I have a 2006 Solara and overnight the windshield washer pump stopped working. I thought the problem was no washer fluid, filled it, and nothing. I checked the hose near the hood and nothing came out. The motor isn't humming like it is trying to pump, so I checked the fuse (I think I checked the right one, not sure, it was a 15a) and it appeared to be good. I checked the wires going to the pump with a multimeter and didn't get power, so is there any other "secret" fuse I am missing. I know on an older car I had, the fuses were sometimes mixed with other items and not labeled.
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