Toyota - Sienna :: Glove Box Locking / Closing Mechanism Doesn't Function Right
Oct 19, 2011
We have a 2009 Sienna, and the glove box locking/closing mechanism doesn't function right. When you close (not lock) the glove box, it sticks shut. Taking out the mechanism (pops out pretty easily), it appears to be a design flaw where the "doohickey" (technical term) that engages is too small and if it gets a bit misaligned, can't engage the part inside the dash to release the door/flap. However, we can't build up the doohickey, because there barely enough clearance for the rest of the mechanism....
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I just bought a 2001 f150 supercrew. I was told that the locking mechanism didn't work right so I took off the door panel. I can tell when using the power locks that the actuator is weak and probably needs replacing. I also noticed that there is not cable or rod going to the actual door lock, that is to say where you put the key in the door to unlock or lock the door. Need a picture of what this locking system should look like? I assume that for some reason I am missing the rod that goes from the actuator to the door lock. And I can't just look at the passenger side because it is the same way.
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On my is, I can remotely open and close the windows and sunroof with my key, by holding the buttons for several seconds.
I seem to remember that this function was engaged by my dealership. however i do not like this function, as I always carry my key in my pocket, and have several times opened the windows by accident because the key button have been pressed while i have the key inside my pocket.
I want disengage this function, preferably without visiting my dealership. Any step by step manual or how to do instruction? Does not say anything about how to do this in the cars manual.
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99 Passat GLX Electrical Gremlins!! Glove box light, out, no power to light, fuse perfect, bulb fine. wiring fine. Also memory function on driver seat not functioning. All power adjustments on seat fine. I think problems are linked. Looking forward to access to wiring diagram? Seems to be a open circuit somewhere.
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Multi function goes off and ready light doesn't come on when turn key to start.
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2001 GTI VR6. 82,000mi and it has some issues. Right now, the wiper fluid doesn't function but the tank is full of fluid, I found a wire cluster with a clip that wasn't even hooked up. Problem, I don't know where to connect it.
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I am switching over to 08 door panels so in my attempt to rewire the door locks I crossed a bunch of wire that I shouldn't have because I had the wrong pin out and I shorted out the circuit. I rebuilt my 08 switches with the 04 parts so now I can reuse my old wiring connectors. I just soldered the old connectors back on and replaced the 30 amp fuse for the power locks. for some reason only the lock function on the passenger side works and it locks both doors but I have no unlock function on the passenger side or anything on the drivers side. Are there any other fuses that I could have missed? I don't have long to do anything invasive but as far as fuses I have all day to replace them. Basically I shorted stuff then I put everything back to the way it was stock and now my locks no worky
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While you're driving you can't type anything into the navigation or Bing, or whatever. So you're forced to use the voice control function.
When you push the voice control button it asks, "What would you like to do?" followed by a quick chime/ding that prompts you to speak. That's what it used to do when it worked.
Here's what it does now: I push the voice button, it asks, "What would you like to do?" BUT, the chime/ding doesn't sound and the system goes back to whatever screen I was on prior to pushing the voice button.
When I push the button after that, it does nothing. Voice command does not work for several minutes. The button becomes useless.
THEN, several minutes more pass by and the entire system restarts. Toyota logo comes on, "Warning be aware of surroundings ....." And it is ONLY after the system restarts itself that voice command works as it should. But this is unacceptable. Shouldn't take 15 minutes before it restarts itself before it works.
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When I used my remote to lock my car the horn doesnt beep anymore. the horn still works if i push the wheel though.
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In my 2003 Toyota Sienna, the ABS system comes on at low speeds. Since I will be trading in shortly, don't want to pay for costly sensor repair. Looked at fuse box to remove ABS fuse, and found 3 fuses that are labeled as ABS. Which should I remove?
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My Sienna's Got the Shakes! At around 30mph and higher, my 2004 Toyota Sienna starts with a constant vibration coming from the front end. It gets faster as the speed increases and it only happens when I'm accelerating... when I take my foot off the gas it goes away. I unknowingly bought the car with this problem, and I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to fix it or sell as is, but I'm getting stumped about the cause. A couple mechanics thought it is from bad motor mounts. I replaced the front mount because it was the easiest to access and could clearly be seen as cracked in the rubber. However, it didn't seem to change the vibration at all, and my mechanic then wasn't convinced that spending money on trying to replace the other mounts was going to do the trick. Another person took a look at it and didn't think it was the motor mounts either, but thought it was something in the drive train which would need to be checked out by the dealer which would be fairly costly. I would love to get it fixed because the rest of the minivan is in good condition.
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How to replace the glove box lock in a 2007 Toyota Camry. I'm referring to part # 7 or 8 in the diagram below.
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2002 toyota camry 4 cylinder. I noticed that when I close the hood, right after I close it I hear a sound like a small amount of liquid is being poured (it doesn't sound like much, maybe as much as half a shot glass worth). I did it about 10 times and I don't see anything dripping onto the ground or under the hood. It sounds like it's coming from near the radiator (although with the hood closed it's hard to tell, also radiator is new with maybe 10,000 miles on it) I noticed it after changing my oil. What the sound could be? Something to be concerned about? There are no other problems with the vehicle.
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I opened up my hood and now it doesn't close... it seems like the latch isn't locking into place and holding the hood down. I do a lot of car work myself, but after countless hours of trying to figure out why my latch isn't locking shut, I give up. I am planning to take it to a local dealer after I schedule an appointment, but that means that I can't drive for a few days... maybe weeks if they are booked... I don't want the hood to pop up on the highway or anything.
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I bought a brand new 2005 Toyota Sienna and since then have nevered got any warm air to come through the rear vents. Only the front passenger and driver gets the heated air. The back rear get only cold air.
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I looked up the service history of a Sienna 2006 (have been planing to buy the minivan) and found that it had a few incidents with AIR BAG ON. When I initially searched for 2006 Sienna I mostly hit the door latch problems. Looks like the airbag issue has been reported on several blogs and there is no recall yet on this issue.
My question is, if I buy extended warranty, whether this would cover the repair cost or not. Or, should I stay away from 2006 Siennas? If so, which models/years should I avoid?
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My Toyota Sienna 2002 van has been stalling when I stop off and on for about 2 weeks. Most times it starts up again and continues to run. I can go days and it doesn't happen then yesterday it happened 7 times in the course of 10 minutes. I've had it connected to a computer diagnostic system three times, couldn't find any error messages.
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My 2010 Toyota Sienna alarm keeps going off randomly...there is no method to the madness. It happens after it's been running or not. It happens at all hours of the day and night. It can happen four times in a row and then not for days on end. It's literally driving me insane. I can stop it by pressing the unlock button on the remote. But it will often -- though not always -- do it a few more times after that. So, I open all the doors/trunk remotely and that usually puts an end to it for that period...but not always. But it always happens again...whether it's the next day or seven days later. The mechanic says they need to keep the car and hear/see it happen...but that means leaving my car with them for days on end, which I simply can't afford to do.
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My wife's 2005 Sienna is a very reliable vehicle. But occasionally when I drive it a fair distance--50 miles or so, but not always that far--the check engine light will come on. (It's something vague about emissions, but isn't it always?) And then a day or so after my wife drives it again, the light goes off. The van seems to run fine at all times. So is it something I'm doing when I drive it?
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Well, a serious problem may be pending on my 2002 Sienna. I get a lot of flats, and usually lose a tire on average each year, due to lots of junk on the roads and streets. So, in the last couple weeks, sometimes the tire light comes on, and I assume I have another leak. But, then it has gone out again after a while and the pressure is okay.
Yesterday, moderate temperatures, I drove only 3 miles or so, to visit friends. The car sat an hour or more. When I started it, the ABS light was blinking and the tire light was on.
I stopped the car, and re-booted, that is, turned it off, and started it again. Lights were okay. Today, I started it, and the ABS and tire lights were on, and not blinking. I re-booted the car, and they were okay.
Three things come to mind:
- Computer
- Bad or intermittent connections somewhere in the light system. The fact a re-boot fixes it tends to preclude this, but with electronics, there is no such thing as 100% sure anything.
- Ambient conditions. I normally park at the end of the house, but workers first put a dump truck load of sand there. Then, they moved in a couple pickups of laja (flagstone) with pieces from very small to maybe 150 pounds each piece.
So, I have parked along the house, and there is a roof drain which drains 500 square feet or more, with a 13 foot drop. I park with the driver's door maybe 3 to five feet from the place it hits. And, it has been raining lightly for the last couple weeks, and heavily the last three days. No water in the car body, but who knows what happens underneath.
I stopped typing and moved enough stones to park there again, and will be telling the workers they need to keep my parking place open for me.
I know we used to have problems with our electronics in private airplanes, and the fix was to install a liner inside the electronics access door. Electronics does not work well when submerged. I also checked with my new scanner, and no DTC; and no history at all.
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I have an 8 year old 2004 Toyota Sienna LE minivan. This past weekend I tried running the air conditioner when the temperature was in the low 80's (F) outside. Unfortunately, the AC only blew hot air, even though I drove a pretty long distance with the AC on.
I think the refrigerant has leaked out and is depleted. Whether or not I should attempt to recharge the AC by myself with my neighbor's assistance (he has all of the gear for recharging the refrigerant) or if this is a job that is better left to a professional.
Also, if I do attempt the job by myself, would it be better to try and seal the leaks with a dedicated sealant first, or should I use the canned refrigerant that also contains some kind of sealant?
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