The dash temp gauge reads in the middle between hot and cold within a few minutes of running. However, it takes about 20 minutes for hot air to come out the heater vents when the heater is set to maximum heat and the fan is on. What should I check and in what order?
View 19 RepliesI own a 2007 Camry LE. It's 4 cylinder and has 80k miles. Since I can remember, the A/C takes a really long time to start blowing cold air.
I'm in Miami, where ambient temp is about 90 F every day and it takes about 2-3 minutes to blow cold air. I can tell because this usually happens when I get around a certain street (SW 40th Street), so the problem is self-replicating regularly.
My father is a house A/C mechanic and he filled it with refrigerant but this has not fixed the problem. If the car has been driven and been parked under shade, the A/C blows cold air since the start. After being driven for 2-3 minutes, it blows cold air like a monster, I usually have to run it on 70 % cold and low fan - that's how well it performs.
I have an 8 year old 2004 Toyota Sienna LE minivan. This past weekend I tried running the air conditioner when the temperature was in the low 80's (F) outside. Unfortunately, the AC only blew hot air, even though I drove a pretty long distance with the AC on.
I think the refrigerant has leaked out and is depleted. Whether or not I should attempt to recharge the AC by myself with my neighbor's assistance (he has all of the gear for recharging the refrigerant) or if this is a job that is better left to a professional.
Also, if I do attempt the job by myself, would it be better to try and seal the leaks with a dedicated sealant first, or should I use the canned refrigerant that also contains some kind of sealant?
The rear vents in my '09 Toyota Sienna minivan do not blow heat, only cold. The vents up front work just fine, but when I turn on the rear heater (whether from the front controls or from the rear controls), my kids get iced. They never blow heat, even after long periods of time. (Also, the upper vents in the back do not blow strong, even on High, although the lower one does). I heard something about an interior heat sensor, and about blend doors.
View 1 RepliesI was driving up hill last night and the van lost power competely. The car did not die out but I could not get it to move. After it cooled down for 20 minutes or so I was able to move it another half block up hill out of the intersection I was obstructing. It then failed again. I was able to shift it into 'L' to move it to the side. I had it towed home. This morning the battery is not completely dead but the car won't turn over. Sound like the transmission?
View 6 RepliesA140E transaxle issue... I have what I surmise is a direct clutch engagement issue. It takes (literally) 3 or MINUTES to engage reverse. And obviously the 2 -3 shift is slow also. It acts like there is a restriction in the passage to the direct piston. I rebuilt about 5 years ago, so am familiar with the teardown.
View 2 RepliesCURRENT PROBLEM:The fans don't blow any air after about 30 minutes of driving/once the car has warmed up.Also, A/C seems to permanently be on even if I don't have the A/C button on, but the fan problem is the main issue(There has been a loud hum behind the dash (for over a year) that speeds up the faster I set the fan speed so the motor is going but no air comes out.)
What's happened in the past:
1. Last summer the A/C stopped working. Will have to look back at receipts more to see exactly what was done (not sure if it worked through winter).
2. Basically the heat only came out of the vent to the left of the steering wheel all winter (no air came out of other vents or it barely came out but was cold).
3. A/C wasn't blowing cold so they replaced thermo switch. When they did this, car wouldn't do anything so they replaced the computer (fortunately I didn't pay for that).
When first starting a 2012 Sante Fe GLS with standard AC each morning, the vents blow warm for up to 3-5 minutes and therafter are fine. Additional starts for the remainder of the day seem fine. We live in a hot climate, but our 2011 Sonata, which is parked in the same garage, does not have this problem. No unusual soundsor lack of air circulation, and after 5 minutes it spontaneously starts to blow cool air. Problem began 2 months after purchase.
View 4 RepliesThe brakes on my 2007 Toyota Sienna suddenly went soft. The mechanic first replaced the rear pads, which needed to be done anyway, and when that didn't fix the problem he replaced the master cylinder. The brakes are still very soft. He has bled the system several times to get rid of possible air in the line, but that hasn't fixed the problem.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2007 Toyota Sienna LE. Sometimes after starting the car the ABS and tire pressure lights come on and I am not able to shift the car out of park. The dealer ordered a brake switch and in the meantime I would just push the override button on the gear shift to move it out of park. BUT, when I do that I loose most of the power (radio, clock, blinkers, power locks/windows/doors, wipers...but not power steering). The brake switch came in. They replaced that, told me the battery (which was installed in July 2010) was very dead and replaced that too. I drove home happy. Next day, ABS and tire pressure lights are on, car won't shift out of park. I manually override it, loose power in said areas and go straight back to the dealer. They said the power was so silly (my word, not theirs) in the car they couldn't plug it into their computer to do the systems check, so they traced wires by hand, took all the wires out of the "block" and reconnected them. Once everything was back together, car works fine. They said no wires were loose and they don't know what was wrong or why it's suddenly fixed.
View 4 RepliesHaving been on a long road trip, I noticed that every time I switch off the engine, there is a grinding noise coming from the engine. Took the van in to Toyota for a regular service, they could not find anything wrong. I then took it to an alignment place having replaced all four tires. They heard the noise straight away and think it is a worn bearing in the cooling fan in the alternator. 2007 Toyota Sienna LE FWD... The car only has 22,956 miles on it.
View 4 RepliesI have a p2195 trouble code with my 2007 Toyota Sienna CE. This is O2 Sensor Signal Biased/Stuck Lean Bank 1 Sensor 1. I am assuming I'll need to replace this sensor. It's a little confusing but if I am reading my Haynes manual correctly, the repair goes as follows:
The sensor for 2007 and later models will be in the exhaust pipe after the catalytic converter. To remove it, it's necessary to remove the passenger seat, disconnect and snake the pigtail through the grommet in the car floor. Then, disconnect the O2 sensor from underneath the van and replace.
I have a 2007 Toyota Sienna and the passenger sliding door will not slide on its own. You have to tug on the door to get it to engage. The repair shop said the door needs a new actuator. How hard is replacing the actuator on sliding passenger door?? My brother thinks he might be able to do it???
View 6 RepliesMy A/C will blow cold for about 3 min. and then stop for 10 min......then cold again for 3 min.....then warm for 10 min.......what is going on ? It does this when on climate control and on A/C . I had a compressor go out about 1 1/2 yrs. ago due to a fan failing...the compressor tore apart... This is not acting like that though .
View 9 RepliesI have 2007 toyota avalon limited. Just had evaporator replaced and now AC only blows on the lowest temp. If you try to adjust temp it just switches to blowing hot. I think it might be the ac/heat actuator. I do have dual zone ac. I don't want to just start replacing parts.
View 5 Replies2011 corolla ... My AC have not been working well lately and it's been incredibly hot out here in so cal.
The problem: AC takes a while to blow out cold air. It blows as if it was a fan, instead of AC... even at max. Ive let it run for about 30 mins, and no luck. Just a hot air blowing fan with the AC light on. It would get slightly cold at times, but it isn't enough for me.
I took my car to the dealership a couple of weeks ago with this concern... and they said they could not find any problems, and that it was working properly, blowing cold air at 44 degrees.
I've looked at the car myself to see if i could find any possible culprits... a refrigerant leak came to mind, or it may need to be recharged... but i could not see it.
The air conditioning blower motor stopped working this past summer (worst timing ever). I took it out, put it back in, and it worked again for a day before dying for good. So, I ordered a new one and replaced it. The replacement was working fine for about 5 months, but it then began exhibiting the same problem as the original: it wouldn't come on until after I'd been driving for a while. The new unit never made any unusual noises while running (the old one got noisy just before I replaced it), but now it isn't coming on at all. I find it hard to believe that the replacement blower motor has failed after only 5 months. What else should I check?
View 5 RepliesA couple of months ago my Yaris was hit just behind the driver side door by a Ford F150, luckily traveling at a low speed. Other than body damage, my car seemed to be fine. After driving the car around for 2 weeks with the damage then taking it in for its 10 day repair, I brought home my wonderful little car. I live in Florida and even though it's winter, we had a rather warm day, just a couple days after bringing my car back home. I turned on the AC and ...nothing came out. So I tried it on higher settings and ...still nothing came out until I got to the highest blower setting. Suddenly it sounded like someone had turned a blender on inside my car but some air was making its way out of my blowers.
I called the shop that did my repairs and they said "well, you probably just blew a fuse. It's not accident related so we can't take care of it without charging you." My understanding was that I would not be able to get my blower to work at all if a fuse was blown, and my air certainly worked following the accident and prior to getting repairs done. If a fuse was blown, I'm willing to bet a lot of money that the shop was responsible. ...the fact that they also broke my glove compartment, got paint all over my seat, and made my car smell like a paint store also make me weary of using them again, but my insurance company swears by them. First of all, what is wrong with my car? Second of all, how do I fix it?
I'm thinking this is probably just the way they are, but I don't understand why........... I have a '12 F250 supercab 6.7 FX4.... truck is an XL, no supplemental heat or anything. If it sits outside over night, and I go out in the morning after say a 35-40 degree night, start it up and let it run 10-15 min then drive 5 miles down the road to town, both temp gauges are still pegged on the cold side, and there's virtually no heat blowing on the defrost. Even if it sits in the heated garage over night, same temp, same drive to town in the morning, same lack of any heat.
My old 2010 V10 that I traded for the 6.7, and my current 09 5.4 are the exact opposite of this. I can start the 5.4 cold, leave within a minute or two, and be making some heat within a few minutes. By the time I get to town, everything is well in the normal range, and I'm turning the heater down cuz it's too hot. Even once the 6.7 is fully warmed up the heater doesn't seem to make near the heat that the gas trucks do. I love the 6.7, I just find this a bit odd. Am I missing something, or is this just the way they all are?
Problems started a few months back. Turned the a/c on and it blew hot air. I didn't think much of it because it started to turn cold after a few minutes. That didn't occur again for a few weeks so I figured it was a fluke.
Over the last few days it now takes 6 -7 minutes for the air to finally cool down. It is way too hot these days to not have instant relief in my car. Luckily it is time for service so I will let the shop worry about what is wrong with it.
I have a 2000 Saturn SL 1 and it takes about 20 minutes to get started and it started after the radiator was changed and I am losing coolant and I noticed a leak around the flex on the exhaust pipe could this be the starting problem?
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